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A resin coat would be pretty drat durable
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Apr 14, 2011 04:21
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wormil posted:Stamped metal wings, probably a universal motor (direct drive, not belt drive), old crappy fence: $100-$125 max. But I wouldn't buy it at all. That's one of the last of the old contractor saws. I had the 9" version that was made a few years previous to the one he linked to, it is belt drive. The fence did suck though. I agree with your pricing.
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Apr 14, 2011 05:06
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GEMorris posted:That's one of the last of the old contractor saws. I had the 9" version that was made a few years previous to the one he linked to, it is belt drive. The fence did suck though. I agree with your pricing. I went and looked at it and it was pretty crappy. I'm going to save up and find something better. I need time to make room for one in the garage anyway.
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Apr 14, 2011 15:31
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oxbrain posted:I need a cheap and easy way to seal some plywood for use as a work surface. I don't care how it looks or how smooth it is, just that it keeps water/oil from soaking in and delaminating it. Being relatively heat resistant would help too since some of the stuff going on it may be 400-500F. If you haven't bought the plywood yet you would better off with melamine coated particle board, then just seal the edges. Melamine is heat resistant to over 600 degrees and impervious to oils. Or you could simply buy sheets of melamine and use contact cement, then you could seal the edges with melamine as well.
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Apr 16, 2011 03:56
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Another good adhesive for face gluing flat sheets is 3M Hi-Strength 90 spray adhesive. It is pretty expensive at around $20 for a 24oz can, but it makes a bond that even Optimus Prime can't tear apart.
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Apr 16, 2011 09:51
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Anyone got some free plans for Morris Chairs? I want to make a couple out of Cedar for our deck.
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Apr 16, 2011 16:17
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wormil posted:If you haven't bought the plywood yet... The plywood was free. v  v
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Apr 16, 2011 18:09
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SkunkDuster posted:Another good adhesive for face gluing flat sheets is 3M Hi-Strength 90 spray adhesive. It is pretty expensive at around $20 for a 24oz can, but it makes a bond that even Optimus Prime can't tear apart. Years ago I did a short stint working for Kenworth and that's what they used to bond rubber to metal. oxbrain posted:The plywood was free. v Well you can still bond melamine to it. It makes for a nice work surface.
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Apr 17, 2011 01:42
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MarshallX posted:Anyone got some free plans for Morris Chairs? I want to make a couple out of Cedar for our deck. Have you tried your local library? I'm lucky because I go to a design university and the library has several books on arts and crafts furniture with plans, but you might be able to find some in your local.
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Apr 17, 2011 18:17
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MarshallX posted:Anyone got some free plans for Morris Chairs? I want to make a couple out of Cedar for our deck. Found this searching google for about a second does it help? 
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Apr 17, 2011 19:23
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I'm gonna have to start making handles for tools soon, and I'm no woodworker. Because I'll be using all sorts of tools that need all sorts of handles- from files to axes- specifics won't be terribly useful. Could someone give me a super-rough rundown of how to get started, or at least where to look? Preferred types of wood, tools needed, shortcuts/easy ways out, that sort of thing.
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Apr 17, 2011 22:59
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I'm gonna have to start making handles for tools soon, and I'm no woodworker. Because I'll be using all sorts of tools that need all sorts of handles- from files to axes- specifics won't be terribly useful. Could someone give me a super-rough rundown of how to get started, or at least where to look? Preferred types of wood, tools needed, shortcuts/easy ways out, that sort of thing. All I can think of is... why? Hickory is a great wood for axe handles; corn cobs for file handles.
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Apr 18, 2011 09:47
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I'm getting into blacksmithing, and I'll end up making my own tools in short order. There are ways to avoid handles proper (like bending them out of round steel stock), but they're ugly and can't be used on most tools.
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Apr 18, 2011 16:31
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Ah, you'll be making the tools. Depending on the handle you might use a lathe or a drawknife. Sounds like a Roy Underhill question. And I found this video of guy making an axe handle using a froe and drawknife. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boQAls1QJB8
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Apr 19, 2011 04:10
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Finished my work surface. I filled the holes and cracks with putty and put down three coats of polyurethane sealant on the top and sides. Now I've got a place to chuck parts without worrying about dinging them up, and any cutting oil or coolant left on them is easily wiped off. I used a router to dig out a 3"x3" pocket through all but the last layer and glued in a chunk of 1/4" plate steel. Magnets stick to my wood top. 
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Apr 19, 2011 19:05
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Here's what I ended up with...  Total material cost for each is about 50$ minus the pad, built out of Cedar decking with the round overs stripped off. Right now I'm planning on total mortise and tenon joinery but need a few suggestions for the pins to allow the back to rotate and pins where you can set the angle of the chair back. I don't think Cedar is strong enough, personally. I kind of freestyled the "style" of it, so it might be proportionally off, so looking on input for that as well. MarshallX fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Apr 19, 2011 |
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Apr 19, 2011 21:10
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MarshallX posted:Here's what I ended up with... That looks nice, you might also price building them from cypress or redwood. You could substitute aluminum or brass rod stock for the pins.
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Apr 19, 2011 22:26
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Elston Gunn posted:That looks nice, you might also price building them from cypress or redwood. You could substitute aluminum or brass rod stock for the pins. I was originally thinking Ipe or Tique, but the cost is just too high. Cedar will match my existing cedar deck (You can see it earlier in the thread)
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Apr 19, 2011 23:56
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MarshallX posted:I was originally thinking Ipe or Tique, but the cost is just too high. You mean teak? I'm digging those plans though. Willing to share the file? Looks like SketchUp.
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Apr 20, 2011 04:24
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jvick posted:You mean teak? Yeah, sorry. Living in Canada I tend to put que instead of k on things  I widened the chair out a bit, I like the proportions better. Here is the sketchup file: http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=637606c1ca1ecd81b502160362bf1664 MarshallX fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Apr 20, 2011 |
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Apr 20, 2011 14:32
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Changed up my design a bit so I can use more screws than mortise/tenons, I'm just not confident in them with Cedar (It's probably find, but I'm finicky): Updated Materials: 3" Boards 20" x 10 (Vert Rails) = 20*10 24" x 4 (Front Legs @ 2") = 24*4 22 3/16" x 4 (Back Legs @ 2") = 22 3/16*4 21" x 4 + 1" of Tenons (Stretchers @ 2 3/4") = 22*4 20" x 2 (Back Horiz @ 3") = 20*2 24" x 5 (Back Vert @ 3") = 24*5 22" x 5 (Seat @ 3") 6" Boards 24" x 2 + 1" of Tenons (Cross Members, 4" wide) 50 36" x 2 (Arms, 5" wide) 72
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Apr 20, 2011 15:30
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MarshallX posted:Yeah, sorry. Living in Canada I tend to put que instead of k on things Sweet! Thanks man!
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Apr 21, 2011 17:59
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Here's how the first chair turned out, I apologize for the crappy cell phone picture.
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Apr 23, 2011 02:26
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Wow, that was fast, and it looks good too. How'd the sizing end up? (Since you said you were just kind of winging the design as far as relative dimensions go.)
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Apr 23, 2011 03:23
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Bad Munki posted:Wow, that was fast, and it looks good too. How'd the sizing end up? (Since you said you were just kind of winging the design as far as relative dimensions go.) Honestly, absolutely perfect proportion wise, very comfortable arm height, etc.. I have one issue with the back where it won't drop down straight when folding the chair up. I'm 100% sure why and I tried to figure it out, but couldn't see any issues. It looks good upright and reclined, so I'm biting the bullet. Better picture:  With Cushion: 
MarshallX fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Apr 23, 2011 |
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Apr 23, 2011 15:49
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I'm working on making my wife a recipe card box out of some white oak wood flooring we yanked out of her grandparents farm house before it was torn down. We picked out a dye that I'm going to use. What is a good way of bringing out the grain in this wood? Also is a grain filler recommended? Also what is the best way to finish after the dye? I know it's been said before in the thread, except I don't remember where in this giant thread it is.
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Apr 24, 2011 02:03
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It's burgin' time! 
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Since we're talking about outdoor furniture: I (mostly) finished two folding Adirondack chairs from red cedar yesterday. I bought the plan from Lee Valley and purchased their recommended amount of lumber, plus one extra 8ft board per chair ("just in case"). Careful planning and cutting netted me four extra boards, so I bought two more and will build another chair now that the workshop is clear of these two. I'm going to modify the plan a little and shoot for a slightly wider chair. The narrowest portion of the chair (between the arms at the front) is really too narrow - at first I thought it was just my fat rear end, but everyone else who's sat in them has said the same thing. You can't get in or out of them without brushing on the arms of the chair. I might post a thread over at SMC to see if anyone else has had the same problem. I will probably cut down the arms on these two when I take them apart to finish them later this spring. All in all, I was very happy with the plan. It came with full size templates, so I glued them to masonite and have a pretty nice set of plans if I ever want to build more. I paid about $50/chair for the cedar, another $50 in stainless steel wood screws, and $17.50/chair in bolts for the pivoting hardware.
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Apr 24, 2011 14:13
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Well, yesterday I finally managed to rent the big reciprocating sander from the local Home Hardware, and holy crap! What was I thinking trying to use a belt sander. . . ok I blame This Guy Needless to say the large sander was a lot faster and the floor turned out pretty nice for something that's been walked over for 83 years (my house is that old and I'm pretty sure it's the original flooring). My procedure was... 1. Start with a 16 Grit paper to break up the original finish. Be sure to vacuum as often as possible to keep things clean and from gumming up. 2. Move on to the 24 grit paper to start leveling the floor. This is a finer grit than the first level, but gets more material removed due to the increased area of grit contacting the floor. 2. Hit it with the 40 grit paper to start removing those little circles and chatter marks the other more aggressive grits left behind. This will also catch any small traces of the old finish the previous two passes left. be sure to follow a pattern of some sort since you're not going to have much in the way of visual clues when you are done. 3. Move on to 60 grit (if you want to prep before final sandings) I actually didn't use this step since the 40 did such a nice job. 4. At this point I used some wood putty to fill in some holes, gouges, and larger cracks between the ends of the boards and the boards themselves. When it was dry I hit those areas with the 40 grit again. 5. When I was finished sanding and vacuumed the floor (done between every step) I hit it with the 100 grit paper and took my time. I started going along each board with this grit, only advancing the sander one board width at a time. This way each and every board got at least 5 passes and I didn't get mixes up where I was since all I had to do was progress a single board and move on. 6. Finish with 120 grit to really get it glass smooth. I didn't do this step since the 100 grit was pretty good and I didn't want to get that "laminate flooring" look you sometimes get from people over-sanding their floors. Tomorrow I'm going to vacuum the house until there is no more dust, then start the polyurethane coats in a few days. Some pics (click for bigger)! Here is the first look at the contrast. This is after a rough go with the belt sander so I can show the stark contrast between the old and the new. As you can see even flooring that looks to be spent has lots of life left in it. This maple flooring happens to be 3/4 of an inch thick, so I don't have to worry that much about wearing it out.  Here I am operating the sander on the newer Oak floor in the sunroom. The reason it's newer is that this section used to be a porch and the previous owners converted it into a sunroom and later a dining room. The floor in it I would guess is somewhere between 20 and 30 years old.  The oak flooring was finished in a matter of minutes. It was a small area and since it was newer it's finish cam off easier due to the boards not being cupped or valleyed. The grain remained, but they are a lot lighter. The finish had some manner of darkening stain which made the oak as dark as walnut originally. My mom dampened a rag and rubbed a section of the floor and it has a "burned honey" finish to it, how I think oak should look.  After finishing the sunroom I moved on to the kitchen floor. I had to move the stove and fridge a few times, but luckily the fridge has good soft rollers and I put some felt bottoms on the stove's legs. They rolled/slid easily without leaving marks. As you can see I have two furnace vents to be wary of, and I'm going to use a palm sander and some stripper to remove the stuff near the edge of the floor and under the counter overhangs.  Here you can see the "nearly finished product. I forget if this was after the 60 or the 100 grit paper. I didn't want to take every last spec of the old finish off. I'm only renting the sander for one day (they are closed Sundays so I got a 2 days for 1 deal) and I don't want to take my floor down 1/4 of an inch to get every little nook and cranny. For the most part the floor has been leveled, all the cups and humps taken out, but there are always some areas that are yet lower. I think this will add a bit of character to the floor. No sense making it look like laminate.  A better look at the sander I am using. It's your run of the mill reciprocating sander, with a dust bag. . . which doesn't work. My first floor was covered in dust after only an hour of using this. Luckily I had an idea to put a sheet over the stairwell so there was no dust upstairs. Here I'm just finished the second go on the living room floor with (40 grit) I believe. This is the room that I am going to be picky about. I've taken it down a lot in areas and I have started and will remove all traces of the old finish. You can see traces of old finish along the wall and in front of the wood stove. That's going to get removed tomorrow with the palm sander and possibly some wood stripper.  Just finished some 40 grit "tough love" in this room. It had a bit of a small hump running through the middle of the room. It was barely noticeable, but since it was raised it garnered more attention, and thus more dings and scratches. I hit it will my belt sander and some 36 grit paper. That's showed it who's boss and leveled it pretty well and got rid of all those gouges. Next I hit it with the large sander and some more 40 grit.  See that board in the middle? (click for larger pic) The lighter one? That's my favourite board in the whole house. It's got a really beautiful grain to it, accentuated with a "Tiger Stripe". When I took a damp rag and ran it over that board it looked like it was shimmering under water on a sunny day. I can't wait to hit it with the polyurethane. 
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Apr 25, 2011 05:55
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Blistex that is a badass looking floor I spent the weekend at my dads and he asked me to take home a bunch of camphor laurel slabs that have been in his wood pile for the last ~15 years Here's a photo of them all stacked up ready for loading into the car. Couple blocks of cedar and one mystery half log in there too   Now I just have to think of things to make with all this. My car smells awesome right now too!
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Apr 25, 2011 10:23
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I made myself a reasonably sturdy workbench. I got the recommended Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking. The first thing I want to do is make a file cabinet to replace the Office Depot POS particleboard thing I have that is disintegrating. I'd like to make something similar in style to this  And while I have confidence that I can do the work right with the instructions on various procedures in the Taunton's, the book doesn't really give any help on when to use what kind of joints and what kinds of woods. Recommendations?
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Apr 25, 2011 23:45
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Stultus Maximus posted:I made myself a reasonably sturdy workbench. My thoughts: I would guess that this is made predominantly of edge-banded good-quality plywood (mainly due to the large size of the drawer fronts). Its probable that the curved corners are hardwood as this would be difficult to do with plywood. 3/4" for the top, bottom, sides and drawer fronts. 1/4" or 1/2" for the back. No idea about the rest of the drawers but I'd guess the sides and backs are the 3/4 and the bottoms are made of the same thing as the back. Then, I'm guessing that most of the joints are either butt or dado joints, held together with glue and nails. The rigidity is going to come from nailing the back to the top, bottom and sides. The drawers are probably on sliders (maybe full length?).
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Apr 26, 2011 00:34
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Stultus Maximus posted:...Taunton's, the book doesn't really give any help on when to use what kind of joints and what kinds of woods. Recommendations? If you want heirloom quality then use a nice solid hardwood (walnut, cherry, maple, etc); dadoes, rabbets and dovetails. If you just want a solid, nice looking cabinet that will last your lifetime then hardwood plywood (various veneers available), a matching solid wood for the rounded corners and standard cabinet construction (reinforced butt joints or dadoes). A book on case construction (cabinetry) would be more helpful with the latter option. It boils down to how much time you want to spend. Modern glues are tough. I built a cabinet with glued & screwed butt joints then later decided to take it apart and build something else with the plywood. After removing the screws, I attacked the joints with a wood mallet and all the leverage I could muster thinking I would just knock them apart... the veneer separated but the glue joints never failed. Some of it I ended up cutting next to the joint with a circular saw because I couldn't separate the joint.
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Apr 26, 2011 03:17
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I'm about to buy a lathe (literally as soon as my club membership card shows up so I can get 10% off everything except the actual lathe itself) and everything I've seen is telling me that if I don't invest in some sort of respirator technology now, I'm not going to be able to breathe in 10 years and I'll have cancer and my lungs will fall out. Anyone have any good recommendations? I want to keep the cost down, so if it means buying a $20 passive system now and waiting for a sale on a better active system, that's fine. At the very least I'll be wearing a dust mask but that just seems like it'd be too little. Better that than nothing, I'm sure, but yeah, looking for recommendations. Picks from both passive and active would be nice.
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Apr 26, 2011 16:22
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Thanks for the advice! I'm going to get a case construction book first and then go from there. Also for literature recommendations... There is no end of guides for making shaker or mission style furniture, which I don't care about and dislike, respectively. Anyone know of good resources for someone who likes 30s-60s modern designs?
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Apr 26, 2011 17:26
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MrPete posted:Blistex that is a badass looking floor Thanks. I'm really proud of how it turned out so far given it's my first attempt at refinishing a floor. Tips: Stay away from strippers! (chemical, not exotic dancers). My mom tried some in some hard to access and see corners and all it did was draw the old finish and stain to the surface, making it darker and gummy. I still had to scrap it away like the rest of the floor, but it was harder and required removing more wood. Get one of these and an extra blade or two.  This is a life saver, and a new sharp one will remove the old hard to reach finish around the edges better than a sander will. It just takes a little elbow grease. When using one of the large reciprocating sanders, have someone vacuum constantly. The more When I returned the sander and the unused paper to the store they were surprised that I only used 3 of the sanding pads I had bought. I told them about the vacuuming and the brushing and they told me to keep that a secret since those sandpaper sheets cost almost $8 each. Use the 16 grit to break up the old finish. Don't try and level with this. It seems that a more agressive grit would be good to remove those cups and humps, but it isn't. A 24 or 36 grit paper is better because there is more grit that is still agressive, but it has more contact with the floor, removing more material in a more even manner. When you're finished removing the old finish and leveling, switch to something like a 40 grit to start removing the sanding marks and getting a nice smooth finish. After that is finished, (and you've vacuumed constantly thoughout this) move to a 100 grit, to finish it off. A 120 grit might be good as well, but I found 100 was good enough for me as it made everything like glass. Maybe machines vary and you need to go higher. Remember to vacuum and look for any dirt or pebbles that will cause scarring marks in your finish. If you see those little circular patterns, there might be a small stone or some buildup on your paper. Vacuum it, and brush the paper to remove any buildups. When you are satisfied, you can use a palm sander to touch up around hard to reach spots or areas the big dander might have missed. It's tempting to get the big sander out again, but sometimes it's better to have something a little more controlable for the problem spots. When you are finished that, vacuum again (seeing a pattern?) and use a soft bristle brush or a duster to dislodge any dust or dirt that still remains. Wait a few hours and do it again, wait, and again. You don't want any dust still settling when you are applying your finish. When applying your finish apply it lightly, and let it dry. Don't paint yourself into a corner. Between coats you might want to lightly scuff it with fine steel wool or 220 grit paper to dislodge any dust or hairs that have settled onto the surface. Clean with a swiffer or a vacuum with very soft bristles and apply another coat. Continue these steps until you are finished with your finish. You also have the option of buffing, but I find most finishes dry with a perfect coat. I'll post some more pics as I progress through the remaining steps if anyone is interested. Right now I'm still scraping and spot sanding around the edges where the larger sander couldn't reach.
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Apr 26, 2011 18:08
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Stultus Maximus posted:Thanks for the advice! I'm going to get a case construction book first and then go from there. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?action=showpost&postid=342729921 This one is kitchen specific but the case construction is basically standard. http://www.amazon.com/Build-Kitchen-Cabinets-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558706763/ref=pd_sim_b_2 There are some really nice woodworking magazines (or were, I haven't seen them in a while) from England that focus on much more than shaker furniture. Also Wood is pretty good about mixing up styles although their joinery is often overly complicated.
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Apr 26, 2011 23:27
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wormil posted:Also Wood is pretty good about mixing up styles although their joinery is often overly complicated. I just started a 3 yr subscription to Wood, it's not bad, but a couple of things stood out to me. First, the renewal notices started coming in after my third issue. Secondly, a few issues ago, they had plans for a bench assembled using biscuits. The assembly was such that the biscuit joint would e expected to support the weight of the person sitting on it. I have always been told to not rely on a biscuit joint for strength like that, so it seemed like a really poor design. They do have cool projects from time to time, but I like Woodsmith much more. I'm thinking about subscribing to Shop Notes too.
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Apr 27, 2011 01:43
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LordOfThePants posted:Secondly, a few issues ago, they had plans for a bench assembled using biscuits. The assembly was such that the biscuit joint would e expected to support the weight of the person sitting on it. I have always been told to not rely on a biscuit joint for strength like that, so it seemed like a really poor design. Personally, I fully agree with you. However, the argument I have heard is that biscuits are not for strength, only alignment and that the glue joint alone (if properly glued) is stronger than the wood itself. If this is true, you can treat the bench as if it were one huge slab of wood. Depending on the thickness of the wood, this may be strong enough to hold a person. I'm not convinced however 
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Apr 27, 2011 02:01
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Oh hello, what's all this now? Oh, my my, aren't you lovely!  Well let's give her a shot!  Finished product!  It's silky smooth. I sanded it all nice and put some oil on it. This is actually the second thing I made on my shiny new lathe, the first just being a bunch of random grooves and beads and coves and such. I'm soooo looking forward to the weekend. It's clearly not a huge lathe, but I think it'll do just fine. For a maximum stock length of 20", it has a fully respectable 6" throw so I can make up to (roughly) 12" bowls. Although I don't think that balancing such a large object would be very pleasant, since this thing only weighs a hundred pounds (minus the stand.) I could probably hang a few weights off it for that portion, though, and throw some sandbags over the feet. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Apr 27, 2011 |
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Apr 27, 2011 02:27
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Bad Munki posted:Oh hello, what's all this now? Jealous. My 30 year old Beaver has nothing on the Jet. A guy at work just got a new OneWay 2036 and never stops bugging me about how he could turn my lathe on his.
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Apr 27, 2011 02:58
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