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I found a crappy guitar at the thrift store for $9. It looks like somebody pieced it together out of two or more other guitars. I think the neck, body and bridge are the only parts that actually went together. This is the only assembled before picture I thought to take:  The pick guard is cracked and held on with four or five different sizes of screws, none of which are actually correct. The bridge pickup opening has been ground out to fit in a humbucker. There are a couple of huge dings on the upper horn, one of which appears to have been filled in by cramming in a wad of spackle and calling it good. Tons of other smaller dings, dents and scratches. The solder job to install the pickup and remove the second volume knob looks like it was done with a nail heated in fire. Progress so far! Disassembly! You can see more of the damage here:  Starting to sand down some of the smaller dents:  The screw holes for the pick guard don't match up to a standard Strat layout, so everything is getting plugged and filled, and will be re-drilled once I have a replacement guard.  The plan at this point is to repaint the body and otherwise fix everything up as cheaply as possible. I may end up using a pre-wired pick guard assembly since that may be the cheapest way to get the electronics back to their original state and replace the guard itself in one go.
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Oct 30, 2011 01:20
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Dog Case posted:Disassembly! You can see more of the damage here: The neck looks pretty good in the picture. What kind of shape is it in in-person?
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Oct 30, 2011 01:38
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Delta-Wye posted:The neck looks pretty good in the picture. What kind of shape is it in in-person? The neck over all is in pretty good shape, and I'm not planning on really doing anything to it. EXCEPT, the tuners aren't original, and they don't line up with the original holes. They sort of fit, but not quite, with the one for the high E being the worst. The hole has been filed out a little in order to make it fit. I'm not sure of I'm going to leave it as is, or try to fill and re-drill the holes, or see if I can find whatever tuners were originally on there.
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Oct 30, 2011 01:46
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It really isn't enough space for a family that cooks a lot. There's barely enough room for all of our plates, bowls, pots & pans, and then fitting in any kind of canned goods or boxes. We have one of those stupid lazy susan cabinets which never work and a weird side cabinet with a tiny door in the corner so you can't put anything big in it. There's less cabinet space than it looks like. There's pretty much no lower cabinets. On top of our juicer, bread maker, deep fryer, mixer, etc. We don't have much room for a microwave or toaster oven. A lot of our stuff is stored on top of the cabinets so its really hard for me to get at. I think I might just invest in a cheap cupboard thingie I saw at Lowes and a kitchen table workstation and throw them in that area with a wall shelf above it or something. At some point the kitchen is going to need an overhaul so I don't want to spend too much money right now.
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Oct 30, 2011 01:46
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Alterian posted:The area I want to turn into part of the kitchen is where the dinning room table is. I'll take a photo of what it looks like now to show how ridiculously cluttered it is with all of our stuff. We cook a lot so we have a lot of cooking things. You could build a nice walk in pantry for the price of some 2x4s, drywall and paint, plus whatever type of shelving you want. 
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Oct 30, 2011 05:01
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Painted the cheap guitar today. Just a rattle-can job with automotive touch up lacquer. I'm just doing a basic color coat with no clear coat to kind of give a more vintage-y, not super-shiny look. Also because I'm lazy and I'm trying to keep this cheap. Sticking with the theme of Cheap, I ordered a pre-wired pickguard from Hong Kong for a whopping $18. The paint should be dry when it shows up in a month! Grand total for the guitar, paint, glue etc. and new electronics: About $50. Dog Case fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Oct 31, 2011 |
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Oct 31, 2011 02:02
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Alterian posted:It really isn't enough space for a family that cooks a lot. There's barely enough room for all of our plates, bowls, pots & pans, and then fitting in any kind of canned goods or boxes. We have one of those stupid lazy susan cabinets which never work and a weird side cabinet with a tiny door in the corner so you can't put anything big in it. There's less cabinet space than it looks like. There's pretty much no lower cabinets. If you don't want to fool with building a pantry and aren't up for the ridiculous cost of cabinets, you really have 2 options: a sideboard/buffet table or a bakers rack. Sideboards: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/categories/departments/dining/10412/ Depending on the things you want to store in there, I'd recommend one with adjustable shelving. Bakers Rack: http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=prod2210341&navAction= Going by your current decor, I think the bakers rack would be a little odd, but it's cheap and is a ton of storage. I have a tiny little galley kitchen and have one along the wall outside the kitchen. It's where any appliance that I don't use every single day lives, along with lexans of rice, flour, sugar, etc. We have a power strip rigged up along the back so that they can be used from there instead of taking up the precious 1 1/2 square feet of counter space that we have.
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Oct 31, 2011 05:32
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Dog Case posted:Painted the cheap guitar today. Just a rattle-can job with automotive touch up lacquer. I'm just doing a basic color coat with no clear coat to kind of give a more vintage-y, not super-shiny look. Also because I'm lazy and I'm trying to keep this cheap. Interesting project. You ARE going to play it for us when it's done, right?
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Nov 1, 2011 00:25
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I am currently in the beginning stages of making my own takedown recurve bow - I've made a bunch of board bows in the past but decided to bite the bullet and go head first into making a real shooter. Here's where I am at... Cook Box is finished and ready with a thermostat to keep it at 180 degrees, limb press is ready to go as well.   
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Nov 1, 2011 15:25
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I've taken some better pictures of my kitchen. I've moved my kitchen table out of the way and put it in the "living room" area of the room and put the bakers rack I already had in the spot   I've been doing a lot of looking around and thinking about it, and I think I'm going to attempt to build what I want rather than find sort of what I want for cheap and have it look really trashy and be made from something cheap. I'm not going to do something too complicated and I have some wood working experience, but not for anything that had to look good, just functional. I've already started looking at different plans on line and I'll probably combine a couple together and make something that fits in the space. I'll probably model it out in 3d for fun. My husband said I have to wait for his sister to pay us rent before I can start. I finally have an excuse to buy a circular saw.  Any advice where to buy wood from? For the other projects I've done, I've just used cheaper wood from lowes, but if I want to do something nicer, I don't know if Lowes/Home Depot is a rip off.
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Nov 2, 2011 01:16
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Depending on where you are located, you could check out a Re-Store or similar resale store. http://www.habitat.org/restores/default.aspx In my city we have a store that is locally run and also a Habitat for Humanity location. These places always have a ton of cabinets, in a variety of condition. Even if don't find ready to install cabinets, you might be able to find a decent framing that you can build off of.
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Nov 2, 2011 03:27
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MarshallX posted:I am currently in the beginning stages of making my own takedown recurve bow - I've made a bunch of board bows in the past but decided to bite the bullet and go head first into making a real shooter. Can you explain what's going on here? I get the general idea, I think, but can you go into detail with the specifics?
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Nov 2, 2011 08:14
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ItsNotAGirlName posted:Can you explain what's going on here? I get the general idea, I think, but can you go into detail with the specifics? Basically, I'm making limbs for a takedown recurve bow, the oven is used for curing the epoxy (4 hours at 180 degrees), the big jig is used to form multiple pieces of 1/8" wood and fiberglass to a certain shape. The fire hose provides 60 pounds of pressure to all surfaces and is great for giving even clamping pressure.
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Nov 2, 2011 13:33
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PrinceofNessus posted:Building a Crib and Changing Table http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Z2A6qJyURY even though I don't know the first thing about woodworking except that I don't expect to be able to make something like that for a couple of years while I build my skills.
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Nov 2, 2011 20:25
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MarshallX posted:Basically, I'm making limbs for a takedown recurve bow, the oven is used for curing the epoxy (4 hours at 180 degrees), the big jig is used to form multiple pieces of 1/8" wood and fiberglass to a certain shape. Here's what two nights gave me: 
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Nov 3, 2011 15:56
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Looking good, can't wait to see the finished product. If you don't mind me asking, how much was the table saw and how's it holding up. I've heard mixed reviews on King Canada stuff. Mostly that it's either great or crap.
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Nov 3, 2011 21:46
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MarshallX posted:Here's what two nights gave me: You keep making me want to build a bow. 
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Nov 4, 2011 06:01
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Blistex posted:Looking good, can't wait to see the finished product. If you don't mind me asking, how much was the table saw and how's it holding up. I've heard mixed reviews on King Canada stuff. Mostly that it's either great or crap. The issue with King Canada is that they MAKE great stuff, but they also buy and relabel a lot of there products; the relabelled stuff is understandably mixed bag. The stuff they make is generally quite heavy, and sturdily built but lacks any bells and whistles. It often feels like an imitation of an equivalent other brand.
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Nov 4, 2011 19:54
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I'll only post the final result as I didn't read the whole thread from the start so it might have been done before but I have just about finished my wood burning stove made from a butane gas bottle. I have pictures of the whole process if anyones interested.
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Nov 5, 2011 00:41
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Rapulum_Dei posted:I'll only post the final result as I didn't read the whole thread from the start so it might have been done before but I have just about finished my wood burning stove made from a butane gas bottle. Sounds cool. Post away.
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Nov 5, 2011 01:00
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Linux Assassin posted:The issue with King Canada is that they MAKE great stuff, but they also buy and relabel a lot of there products; the relabelled stuff is understandably mixed bag. The stuff they make is generally quite heavy, and sturdily built but lacks any bells and whistles. It often feels like an imitation of an equivalent other brand. Absolutely this. You can get Mastercraft style King stuff - but you can also get Rockwell style King stuff, it's hit or miss. Luckily the table saw I got for 300 bucks almost brand new is an absolute work horse and has never failed. I knew exactly what I wanted in a table saw and was pretty specific on what I was looking for (Cast Iron Top, Left Hand Tilt). The only thing I fell back on is that the top of mine isn't solid cast iron but a grid. It's actually quite nice for clamping stuff down - so I'm happy 
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Nov 5, 2011 03:36
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Rapulum_Dei posted:I have pictures of the whole process if anyones interested. Definitely want to see them.
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Nov 5, 2011 06:03
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Okey dokey; Project 87 is my attempt to make a DIY wood burning stove using mostly scrap and based on a Calor Gas Bottle. If you want to try it yourself you will need: An empty Calor Gas Butane cylinder Steel pipe stove paint fire wood Mild Steel plate 2-5mm Angle Grinder Fine metal cutting disks Metal Grinding disk wire brush disk Drill with various bits Duck Tape Steel bolts (M2) a kebab skewer Cardboard Pencil Safety googles, gloves and ear defenders A qualified doctor A welder You might not need all of those things but I did. The first thing to do is collect all the bits you need. I found as the project went on that I had to nip out to get various bits and pieces as I needed them. This wasn't a bad thing as it gave me an excuse to chat the the various builders merchants, scrap dealers and tool suppliers. But it used up more diesel than strictly necessary. I had the gas bottle donated to me so that was free. The steel pipe was (I think) mains water piping but I'm not sure. In any case it came in 6 foot lengths is 4" diameter and was slightly flared at one end so slots together. In theory. However the bits I got were not perfectly round and so needed a fair bit of persuasion with a hammer. But I'll come to that later. The flat steel plate is optional but it is used for a hotplate on the top. Both came from a local scrap/recycling yard and cost me £4 Having gathered all your tools the next thing is to ensure your workplace is free from chickens.   buk buk indeed. Next we need to make sure there is no gas left in the cylinder. I can't stress this enough. In fact if I were you I'd not even try this at all on account of the minor risk of death. I used an angle grinder to cut into a gas cylinder. Can you imagine? Madness. but anyway; The valve on top is like the one in your car tyre, there is a nipple in the middle you can depress to open it. Obviously you want to have disposed of the majority of the gas in the normal way, by running it out in a super ser or patio heater or whatever first. but there will continue to be a risidual bit as, I am told, propane is heavier than air so even with ambient pressure it will lurk in the bottom of the cylinder. initially I tried to simply unscrew the valve.  Oh how simple that would have been. If it worked. This may work for you however so is worth a try. Note the thread on the valve is the opposite to what you'd expect, so clockwise loosens it. Bu for me it did not work. So what to do. Well I reasoned, and this was backed up by google, that if the tank were filled with water then that would push out the remaining gas. So with the use of a wooden kebab skewer I wedged open the nipple valve on the top. I then used a hose pipe to trickle water into the top of the tank.  This worked, and you can see the bubbles of gas coming out as its displaced by the water but dear god its slow. So slow in fact I left it overnight. The next morning the tank was less than 1/4 full. Balls. The valve was simply too small to let much water in. I decided therefore to drill into the tank so I could get the water in faster. I considered the risk of sparks and figured if I tipped the tank on its side and drilled under the existing water line I'd probably survive.  What I did next I now regret. I drilled into the centre of the eponymous 87 at the top of the cylinder. Were I doing it again I would recommend you drill into the BOTTOM, where it wont be seen. Aw well. So, two holes, one for water in, one for gas out.  So we now have a cylinder full of lovely, inert, non explosive water. Time to get rid of the valve. My way of doing this was to drill it out. To do this you drill a series os small holes and then go over them again with a larger bit so they all join up. My tip for this: use a very small bit and drill your holes as close together as you can. If you use too large a bit then your drill may have issues getting enough torq. If you find the tip of the drill skittering about when you're starting you probably aren't applying direct pressure, you're pressing down at an angle - so tilt the drill in the direction it keeps slipping towards. When you get most of the way round you might find a hammer can persuade the last hanging on bits to let go. You should end up with something a lot neater looking than this:  Next, to be sure to be sure, I rinsed it out with water. I left for the amount of time it takes to make a nice cup of coffee and congratulate yourself on completing the most iffy bit without dying.  At this stage I hadn't decided if I wanted a flat top or the chimney coming out of the middle - I hadn't been to the scrap yard for those bits yet. Either way though that hole needed tidying up. Using a worn 41/2 inchc grinding disk as a template I marked out a circle. [img] http://www.echoblue.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/216x289x20111023-224347.jpg.pagespeed.ic.z3ZMMTrWUq.jpg[/img] This gave me a line to work to with the grinder.  Now I've not mentioned safety equipment much. Chances are the moment you began drilling into the top of the tank you'd have thought, hmm - ear defenders might be an idea as the screeching noise is awful. You might have considered the possibility of how embarrassing it would be to get a sliver of steel in your eyeball and worn glasses too, and you would be wise. But next we're going to use an angle grinder. If you stop a moment to consider, as I did, the potential forces involved in spinning a brittle little disk at high speed, and exerting lateral pressure sufficient to wear away steel it may occur to you that if bits start flying off in the direction of your soft and yielding flesh it might be bad. So gloves, goggles, ear defenders, non flammable clothing and an executor of your estate are a wise precaution. I also had a consultant emergency anaesthetist but I appreciate not everyone has one of them to hand. The first time you get hit in the face by the pretty sparks you'll thank me. So when I was done I had this:  That's the top done. now we need a door. Using an A4 piece of paper make a square and position it where you want your door to be. To be honest mine could have done with being a little bit lower than it was. [img] http://www.echoblue.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/216x289x20111023-224410.jpg.pagespeed.ic.r_Xi8m4VGA.jpg[/img] Using a pen draw round the page and then frame it using duck tape. so when you're cutting you have a guide.  Now its time to cut out the door. I used a very thin cutting blade for this as we're going to use the bit we cut out for the door later. The fine disks do wear down very quickly mind you so you may need a new one later on. Take your time and you should end up with something like this.  I think now you'll agree its starting to look a bit like a stove. [img] http://www.echoblue.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/216x289x20111023-224433.jpg.pagespeed.ic.1ZX0zxLDJJ.jpg[/img] Next we need to get rid of the existing paint. Thankfully this is simple. We burn it off. Set a fire in the base of your stove to be. It was at this point I realised my door opening was a bit high as the fire bed was so low it didn't get a good airflow. but fear not, I fixed this later. [img] http://www.echoblue.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/216x289x20111023-224445.jpg.pagespeed.ic.9mil7_BzkS.jpg[/img] Get a good blaze going and in less than an hour it'll look like this  To fit the door made from the cut out piece I used a simple (cheap) pin hinge attached with some steel bolts. Later on I replaced them with rivets, which look a lot nicer. Plus it gave me an excuse to buy a riveter. New toys are always good.    You can use whatever you want for a door handle, I happened to have an old sideboard that I nicked a brass knob off. I'm not sure how it'll cope with the heat over the long term but meh, we'll see what happens. When you attach the door is should look something like this  I was at this point I thought, wouldn't it be nice to have a flat top to put a kettle on    Of course the problem then is I'd need to cut another hole for the chimney. And that's be on the curves section of the cylinder. I couldn't just use a flat template for the hole as when it curved it'd make an elipse. So my solution was to make a stack of cardboard cut from a thick box. I used a 3" counter cutting bit for this.  When I glued it together I ended up with a solid cylinder I could shape  Okay, that isn't strictly necessary, you'd proabably be alright just drilling out a hole roughly the right shape and grinding it out but it was raining.   And you can't deny it did work. [img] http://www.echoblue.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/216x289x20111029-192911.jpg.pagespeed.ic.9Krf0eretX.jpg[/img] Next we need a flue. I actually went to 2 places. The first one the guy just gave 2 lengths of enamelled flue pipe. But when I got home I relaised that it was too wide at 6" and looked funny. So instead I used 4" steel pipe.  Once it was in place at the back though I used a small square of mild steel for the top. Both the pipe and the hotplate I had to get a friend to weld on for me. It took him about 1/2 an hour in total. I would like to have done it myself but I can't weld. yet. Maybe next time. A quick coat of stove paint and it looked pretty near done   I've cut an air vent lower down on one side. A sliding cover for that is currently under way.  There is also a baffle. In theory this should keep more heat in the stove itself and prevent downdrafts pushing smoke out the front. I'm not sure how effective it is but we'll see how it goes.  So that's it. At the minute I'm working on making the sliding door for the air vent and 60 degree elbows for the flue pipe for going out the wall instead of the roof. I also want to see if I can cut and roll those 6" pipes down to 4" and then rivet them. Bit of a long post I'm afraid but I did make an effort to keep the pics small.
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Nov 5, 2011 11:02
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wormil posted:You keep making me want to build a bow. Sorry dude  Here's where we are at right now:   I braced the bow right after this picture and took a look at the initial tillering i'd have to do (tillering is removing limb twist and hinges in the bend of the limbs), unfortunately I didn't take any pictures because I was so goddamned nervous. Last night my stringer snapped when I was trying to brace the bow again and I'm out of commission until I can build/buy a new one.
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Nov 5, 2011 13:01
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Working on a MAME cabinet so I have something to do over the cold winter months: 
autism ZX spectrum fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Nov 5, 2011 |
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Nov 5, 2011 19:25
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Now its time to cut out the door. I used a very thin cutting blade for this as we're going to use the bit we cut out for the door later. The fine disks do wear down very quickly mind you so you may need a new one later on. Take your time and you should end up with something like this. Good thing I wasn't working on this project because I would have started on my space helmet right here.
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Nov 6, 2011 00:44
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Bit of a long post I'm afraid but I did make an effort to keep the pics small. Is this for your garage? How are you keeping the door clasped? I would be tempted to line the bottom with fire bricks.
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Nov 6, 2011 10:24
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It is for the garage yes. There will be a carbon monoxide alarm going in there too, just in case. I was planning on making a small backstop but I found when I hung the door that the hinge doesn't let it go any further than in line with the frame so in the end I didn't need anything else. I have seen cabin hooks and gate clasps used to hold the door closed but I haven't found it necessary. You could use fire bricks in the bottom if you wished but I've been burning wood, turf and occasionally charcoal in it and it seems to have no issues. If i was burning more coal then that would be different - I'd need a grate and lower air vent. I am waiting for a laser pointer thermometer (not it's real name probably) I've ordered to arrive to see what kind of temperatures the body and flue get up to. It could well be that in the longer term the heat will destroy it but really, considering it cost less than tenbux, if it dies i'll make another one. I have another cylinder already for the MK2. this one will have a totally flat top with the flue coming out the back and posssibly 2 doors. But I want to do the welding on this one myself so I'm trying to find someone to teach me the basics. I'm also still pondering the best way to put a damper in the flue to try and keep more heat in. I suppose in theory you could make the whole thing without any welding if you just riveted everything and used fire rope as a gasket. I have also seen other versions which have a glass port hole in the door (Pyrex dish) which looks pretty good.
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Nov 6, 2011 17:54
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This project is still in the preliminary stages so I just want to know if this idea is at all feasible. The car that I've had since I was 17 has been sitting alongside my mother's house for some time now and she's been on my case to do something with it for a while now. The long and short of it is that I don't want to sell it but I don't have the time/money to devote to getting it the shape I'd like right now (I now drive a much newer car). My uncle has some land that he's offered to let me store the car on. Since I don't know exactly how long it will be before I can work on it, I'd like to construct a shelter of sorts to protect it from the sun and precipitation as much as possible. I realize they make car canopies for this sort of thing but they seem overpriced and flimsy to me. This will be located in southern Ohio, so luckily the weather is not typically that extreme. So without further ado, here is scale drawing I did in Google Sketchup:  With the blue box representing the car, viewed from the front or back. I forgot to label them but the height of the structure will be 7 feet. There should be a minimum of 6 inches between the roof and any part of the car. I didn't want the tarp to go all the way to the ground so that air can circulate and prevent moisture from accumulating around the car. The roof will be a heavy duty tarp (these look pretty good to me http://www.a1tarps.com/category.jhtm?cid=201 ) supported by steel tent poles (http://goo.gl/8414x) at either end, effectively boxing the car in. The ridgepole will have to be about 15 feet long and this stuff http://goo.gl/AHngW seems like it would work. There will be another tarp underneath the car to act as a vapor barrier. I plan on using guy ropes and heavy duty tent stakes (http://goo.gl/JoZ0U) for each pole and at the very least at each corner of the tarp, probably more. I was thinking of attaching feet to the tent poles and then screwing each of them to the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket and then filling it with sand or concrete in order to further increase stability. I figure it would be best for this thing to be positioned on a slight incline with the car facing North-South. I'm not sure if it would be good to partially enclose the other two ends (where the poles are located) or just leave them open in the interest of air circulation. So does this seem like it would hold up to a decent amount of abuse and keep the car dry? My uncle ought to be able to check on it periodically but I'd rather not count on that given how long it might be out there.
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Nov 6, 2011 19:14
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Your diagram has the groundsheet extending beyond the side. What stops the rainwater collecting on it? Why are you having a ground sheet at all?
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Nov 6, 2011 23:54
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Won't a regular car cover protect it, except if it hails or something?
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Nov 7, 2011 00:33
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That's meant to be the ground, the sheet is not in the diagrams sorry that was unclear. The groundsheet would be fully underneath the "tent". I've read that moisture from the ground can lead to cars rusting from the ground up over long periods and that is where the (minimal) rust on the car is. I plan to spray rust converter in those areas and cover that with paint before storing the car but you can't be too careful! I worry that a car cover would, again, retain moisture and possibly scratch up the paint (thus leading to more rust). A quality one ought to avoid scratching but costs more than the setup I've proposed from what I can tell. Everything I've read recommends against them outdoors for long periods anyway, http://www.dccarcare.com/tipowk/tipowk29.html for example.
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Nov 7, 2011 02:45
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Here's where I got last night, riser preliminary shaping done. I find this part the absolute hardest because it takes a good sense of proportion and flow to get a smooth riser that fits well in the hand..   
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Nov 8, 2011 14:32
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MarshallX posted:Here's where I got last night, riser preliminary shaping done. I find this part the absolute hardest because it takes a good sense of proportion and flow to get a smooth riser that fits well in the hand.. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. I really like the form and shape of bows. Cherry stool, walnut stretcher.     
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Nov 8, 2011 17:19
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Welp, I have decided to use my arduiNIX for something other than a clock... These are IN-19a, and IN-19b nixie tubes, with letters enough to spell my daughter's name. Unfortunately, the Russians never made tubes with a capital N. So I went with the lowercase n cathode. Video of the letters panning here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opOznJk2rj4 Once I finalize the wiring, I'll make a neat case for it.
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Nov 17, 2011 20:38
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nonentity posted:Unfortunately, the Russians never made tubes with a capital N. So I went with the lowercase n cathode. Surely, you of all people would have thought of that when you named her. 
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Nov 17, 2011 21:50
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nonentity posted:Welp, I have decided to use my arduiNIX for something other than a clock... Woa, these are awesome! Are they really powered with 170V DC? They look like they would be fun to play around with, but how did you power them?
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Nov 17, 2011 23:05
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Yeah, they run at 170vdc... I am driving them with the ArduiNIX. An Arduino shield I came up with, and sell. http://www.arduinix.com/
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Nov 18, 2011 16:55
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nonentity posted:Yeah, they run at 170vdc... Thank you for this, I might just have to make some ridiculous poo poo for work like this.
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Nov 18, 2011 21:09
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| # ? May 31, 2024 10:57 |
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nonentity posted:
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Nov 21, 2011 05:48
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