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Pope Ron Paul II posted:Man, that is a drat shame. I mean, that brick wall was pretty old. It is a shame, the owner was pretty sad. I didn't ask him how it happened. I completely spaced on getting pictures of the side which took the brunt of the damage unfortunately. The passenger wheel is bent severely from the curb, the front bumper, side panel, and hood are all crushed in around 9-12" from the wall. Oil and coolant on the ground in various quantities, but I saw it after the kitty litter was tossed on it. At worst he should be able to part out the interior and rear end. It wasn't in perfect condition, but I would say fair-good for the age. The upholstery seemed to be standing up well, I assume the 4-speed is fine, steering wheel was missing the center cap. He volunteered that he had really good insurance on it, though I doubt repairing the wall is all that expensive unless the engineers say something really bad. The building is held up more or less by wood rafters these days for earthquake retrofitting. Edit: Our office manager who also happened to drive by got this picture of the damage: H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Feb 13, 2012 |
# ? Feb 13, 2012 17:30 |
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 11:45 |
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I'm down for a NE meet especially if things will get blowed up. I'll see what I can dig up around here for lawnmower engines and 2 strokes that I can bring to explode. I have a landscaping equipment graveyard.
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# ? Feb 13, 2012 23:11 |
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Billy Tully posted:I'm down for a NE meet especially if things will get blowed up. I'll see what I can dig up around here for lawnmower engines and 2 strokes that I can bring to explode. I have a landscaping equipment graveyard. I've got an old Husqvarna 345 chainsaw that needs to die... drat EPA limiter caps and crappy compression.
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 00:08 |
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If we hold this event at my place I can try and blow up the motor in my 98 XJ, it's got a bad head gasket and it's getting so bad it will barely accelerate. I have the new motor sitting there waiting to go in but I feel like I should give it a proper send-off. I'd do it in Nashua too, but I don't feel like paying the tow bill to get the stupid thing home after.
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 00:17 |
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kastein posted:If we hold this event at my place I can try and blow up the motor in my 98 XJ, it's got a bad head gasket and it's getting so bad it will barely accelerate. I have the new motor sitting there waiting to go in but I feel like I should give it a proper send-off. Ever heard of AAA plus? 100 miles of free towing.
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 00:59 |
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kastein posted:If we hold this event at my place I can try and blow up the motor in my 98 XJ, it's got a bad head gasket and it's getting so bad it will barely accelerate. I have the new motor sitting there waiting to go in but I feel like I should give it a proper send-off. Is it an automatic? Because seized engines and automatic transmissions are a big holy loving pain in the rear end. This picture sums up how I feel about it.
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 01:00 |
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sharkytm posted:Ever heard of AAA plus? 100 miles of free towing. Just used mine for a 35 mile tow - tow driver told me that would have been a nearly $300 tow without AAA. So yeah, Plus easily pays for itself for a few years the first time you use it for more than a few miles.
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 01:38 |
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More than once my 300 miles trip to/from college included a portion on the back of a flatbed. I think I used up my 100 miles every year for like 4 years in a row.
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 13:06 |
So we had a turbo workshop today, and... well, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 15:53 |
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sharkytm posted:I've got an old Husqvarna 345 chainsaw that needs to die... drat EPA limiter caps and crappy compression. I also have an old saw you might like so I'll bring it along of we all do this thing.
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 17:53 |
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sharkytm posted:Ever heard of AAA plus? 100 miles of free towing. Yeah, I haven't been a member long enough to sign up for it yet or something. chrisgt posted:Is it an automatic? Because seized engines and automatic transmissions are a big holy loving pain in the rear end. Yeah, they are... I'll probably have to pull the torque converter with the motor and then separate afterward. I have a spare transmission, transfer case, a few flexplates, and a reman'd torque converter on hand though so I might just drop those all in at once and then rebuild the transmission and transfer case coming out of it to keep as spares.
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 18:16 |
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Billy Tully posted:I also have an old saw you might like so I'll bring it along of we all do this thing.
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 19:12 |
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kastein posted:Yeah, I haven't been a member long enough to sign up for it yet or something. There's enough room in a jeep to pull the engine with the TQ attached? that makes it a lot easier. There isn't enough room on the subaru (due to a two foot rod in the TQ). So sawzall and grinder time... That engine made the most horrible bone chilling noise ever before it went. It was like the sound of someone dying in pain...
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 21:58 |
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chrisgt posted:There's enough room in a jeep to pull the engine with the TQ attached? I usually take the front bumper, grille/nosepiece, and radiator out. Then remove the driveshafts, all hoses and exhaust and stuff you'd normally move to get an engine out, then disconnect a few extra linkages, unbolt the transmission crossmember, and simply pull the entire drivetrain as one assembly. Takes a little bouncing or a tall engine hoist to get the oil pan over the front crossmember with it like that, but I've done it alone twice and with help three or four more times now. My favorite method is to simply roll the jeep out from under the drivetrain a few inches at a time while adjusting the angle the drivetrain is at using a load balancer to make it clear everything. If I don't care about the chassis I can have the drivetrain out of a jeep in under 2 hours, if I do, it takes more like 3 or 4. Putting it back in takes about the same amount of time.
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 22:45 |
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PainterofCrap posted:OTOH, anything's rebuildable if you have the money... Especially since the first-gen Mustang is probably one of the few cars you can build entirely from mail-order parts. What other cars are on that list? The '57 Chevy was actually done awhile back by Boyd, I'm pretty sure the generic '32-ish hot rod can be done too, and I know from aftermarket 4x4 catalogs that a Jeep CJ is definitely possible (you may not be able to get an aftermarket AMC engine block, but if you want a Chevy V8 in it you're golden).
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# ? Feb 15, 2012 01:30 |
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SwashedBuckles posted:I'd be down for a NE AI goon meet/destructothon. I'm about an hour from Nashua so that works for me Could you guys do us a favor and make your own thread about it? I doubt I'm the only goon west of the Mississippi who is tired of hearing about it in this "post pictures" thread.
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# ? Feb 15, 2012 01:50 |
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Delivery McGee posted:Especially since the first-gen Mustang is probably one of the few cars you can build entirely from mail-order parts. What other cars are on that list? The '57 Chevy was actually done awhile back by Boyd, I'm pretty sure the generic '32-ish hot rod can be done too, and I know from aftermarket 4x4 catalogs that a Jeep CJ is definitely possible (you may not be able to get an aftermarket AMC engine block, but if you want a Chevy V8 in it you're golden). Or go with a new Mopar 4.6L Stroker I6 or any of the reman 4.0 engines available if you want to keep it Jeep but can't locate an AMC block in a junkyard.
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# ? Feb 15, 2012 03:33 |
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Or wait for all the hoarders with the cheater block collections to die. That Mustang is a hardtop though. It's worth nothing compared to a fastback.
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# ? Feb 15, 2012 03:40 |
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chrisgt posted:There's enough room in a jeep to pull the engine with the TQ attached? I've pulled engines from two different Subarus with the torque converter attached with no problems. They were both due to stuck torque converter bolts. Remove the radiator, leave the A/C condenser with cardboard in front of it, remove the front accessories from the motor and it all comes out easy. I don't even break the A/C or power steering lines open. First one was a '92 Legacy Turbo with all the turbo plumbing still attached, even. The second was a '97 Outback with the EJ25D.
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# ? Feb 15, 2012 21:23 |
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Alphius posted:I've pulled engines from two different Subarus with the torque converter attached with no problems. They were both due to stuck torque converter bolts. Remove the radiator, leave the A/C condenser with cardboard in front of it, remove the front accessories from the motor and it all comes out easy. I don't even break the A/C or power steering lines open. Hmm, interesting to hear that! A couple people told me that there was no way and I'd have to pull both at the same time. Which I didn't want to deal with.
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# ? Feb 15, 2012 21:34 |
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chrisgt posted:Hmm, interesting to hear that! A couple people told me that there was no way and I'd have to pull both at the same time. Which I didn't want to deal with. What? I thought it was standard procedure when pulling an engine with an automatic transmission that the torque converter comes out with it and just be ready to clean up the ATF that spills out when you tilt the engine to get it out.
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# ? Feb 15, 2012 21:46 |
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I've always left the converter in the transmission, but I've never encountered stuck bolts in the converter-flexplate assembly, either. Mostly because I don't want to accidentally shred the torque converter seals. Especially in transverse FWD vehicles, you've either got to leave the torque converter in the transmission, or just yank the whole powertrain assembly out.
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# ? Feb 15, 2012 21:58 |
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EightBit posted:What? I thought it was standard procedure when pulling an engine with an automatic transmission that the torque converter comes out with it and just be ready to clean up the ATF that spills out when you tilt the engine to get it out. Pulling it out that way is fine, though it comes apart much easier if you leave the torque converter on the transmission since the splines don't have to be perfectly aligned and not side-loaded for it to slip apart. Putting a torque converter on the engine and trying to stab it into the transmission is a recipe for a shredded torque converter, fluid pump, and/or input shaft on the transmission though. I know a few people who have done that.
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# ? Feb 15, 2012 22:10 |
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Yes, the only time it's acceptable to leave the torque converter attached to the engine to pull it out is when the bolts get stuck. Otherwise unbolt it and leave it in the transmission. If you try to re-stab an engine with the TC attached to it, you run a huge chance of destroying the pump, which is not too fun to replace. If you have to pull the TC with the engine, make sure you're gentle pulling it off the input shaft and make sure you gently put the TC back on the transmission input shaft and fully seat it before stabbing the engine.
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# ? Feb 17, 2012 02:47 |
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Now you guys got me wondering how I separated mine when I had my motor rebuilt in 2010... Ah. +1 for unbolt the TC VVV Ja...and the fucker ran hot anyway. Go figure PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Feb 17, 2012 |
# ? Feb 17, 2012 03:41 |
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Looks like you found the emergency reserve of coolant that always hides in a fully drained block until you get it out of the vehicle, too. I hate that.
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# ? Feb 17, 2012 03:43 |
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kastein posted:Looks like you found the emergency reserve of coolant that always hides in a fully drained block until you get it out of the vehicle, too. There's always more coolant. Took the lower radiator hose off and let it drain for half an hour? You're gonna get a shower when you go to put a new hose on. I haven't had trouble stabbing transmissions into clutch disks yet and I loathe automatic transmissions (the one engine I helped pull that had an auto behind it was pretty janky and stuck). I'm having trouble visualizing the technique for taking the torque converter off of the flex plate without separating the engine and transmission first though...
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# ? Feb 17, 2012 06:04 |
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-Remove inspection cover -Rotate engine until converter bolt appears -Remove said bolt -Repeat x2
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# ? Feb 17, 2012 07:20 |
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Bucephalus posted:-Remove inspection cover You forgot the massive cursing and swearing as you realize none of your wrenches can get a good angle on the bolts.
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# ? Feb 17, 2012 07:43 |
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Sponge! posted:You forgot the massive cursing and swearing as you realize none of your wrenches can get a good angle on the bolts. this is the one and only reason I own a 15mm flex-head gearwrench. drat XJs have 4 bolts, too...
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# ? Feb 17, 2012 07:58 |
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kastein posted:this is the one and only reason I own a 15mm flex-head gearwrench. This is one of the reasons I buy craftsman wrenches and have a torch and a vise.
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# ? Feb 17, 2012 08:00 |
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kastein posted:this is the one and only reason I own a 15mm flex-head gearwrench. Yeah, I think mine need tightened too.
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# ? Feb 17, 2012 20:52 |
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 00:17 |
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The Third Man posted:Found the thread.
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 00:22 |
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that could actually be worse. the fact that the upper spring perch is wedged against the strut tower means that those long bolts aren't load bearing, and only see the forces generated by the damper, which are not as high or abrupt.
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 03:26 |
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The Third Man posted:This is the thread: http://stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26342
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 06:12 |
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Lord Gaga posted:This is the thread: Tags: deez nuts
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 06:16 |
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Lord Gaga posted:This is the thread: I found it here (linked earlier, but in the catstare, so probably not as noticeable).
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 06:16 |
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Lord Gaga posted:stanceworks Mystery solved.
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 16:16 |
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 11:45 |
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jamal posted:that could actually be worse. the fact that the upper spring perch is wedged against the strut tower means that those long bolts aren't load bearing, and only see the forces generated by the damper, which are not as high or abrupt. Theoretically, it should work fairly well. It's just hideous/scary-looking. A solid spacer would be ideal.
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 16:38 |