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Got any videos of those bad boys running around?
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Dec 22, 2012 22:45
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Dead Pressed posted:Got any videos of those bad boys running around? Yeah, I toss up everything on my youtube channel- http://www.youtube.com/user/mikencr I've got playlists sorted by event and robot.
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Dec 22, 2012 23:01
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Dabrovnijk posted:
I'm curious how the stand and motor mount are working out? I bought a bench lathe and will be needing to build a stand and attach a motor.
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Dec 24, 2012 09:06
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The stand is working pretty good. I don't have that much experience, but comparing to the table I was using before it is like night and day. I got vibrations from the engine and uneven pieces. Now I don't get A flaw might be that I didn't use any kinds of foots. As I moved the lathe I discovered that it rocked slightly as the floor is not perfect and perhaps with a combination of the wood drying and twisting. I solved that by using lag wood screws and bolting it down to the floor, I guess that should have been done either way. The motor mount is also working ok. The belt have not jumped off besides the first time testing it even if I don't tighten it down with the rod. EDIT: Made a unintentional exaggeration regarding the vibrations. erephus fucked around with this message at 10:55 on Dec 24, 2012 |
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Dec 24, 2012 10:29
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Dabrovnijk posted:The stand is working pretty good. I don't have that much experience, but comparing to the table I was using before it is like night and day. I got vibrations from the engine and uneven pieces. The Woodgears guy mounted his motor similarly to yours and also had problems with bounce, not sure if he got it fixed or not. http://woodgears.ca/lathe/index.html The original plan was to build a treadle lathe but I have a hvac fan motor, 1/3HP and the temptation to use it is strong. The lathe has 3 pulleys, 3.5", 2.5", and 1.5". The motor has a 2.25" pulley. So that would give me 2588, 1553, 1109 RPMs; perfect on the high end, a bit fast on the low end. An AC speed control would be too expensive. I have 2 other hvac motors, both wired for 3 speeds but they are 1/4 HP and I can't read the RPMs without disassembling the fans. I may have to use one of these and if the motor is slower, buy a I'm thinking aloud here so if anyone has suggestions, feel free to chime in. wormil fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Dec 25, 2012 |
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Dec 24, 2012 23:27
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wormil posted:The Woodgears guy mounted his motor similarly to yours and also had problems with bounce, not sure if he got it fixed or not. I went down and tighten the rod pushing the engine down and my vibrations got even lower after that. And I also got an idea from the other guy, putting the engine on rails. I'm thinking about that in conjunction about the angle mentioned earlier. Using an iron rod or equal to hold the engine, like a hinge. Connecting the iron plate with metal bars or sturdy wood bars with bearings on the rod and have the rod moveable or vice versa. The engine you have wired for three speeds. I'm guessing that it will have less power on the lower speeds and that 1/4 hp is when it's running at the highest speed. But perhaps it will be strong enough.
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Dec 25, 2012 02:23
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thehoj posted:I built a custom 9-watt guitar tube amp. i realise this was posted in feb, but is this the same guitar amp build on instructables that uses the weird 6K6GT tubes? or did you pull all your own inspiration from the amps you mentioned? pretty cool. i am new to electronics but not new to guitar, and am starting on simple effects builds before moving onto things with tubes.
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Dec 27, 2012 05:13
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Small update to show that I haven't died or something, since my last one was well over a year ago  Anyway I threw together a sort of enclosure for my ammunition counter in FreeCAD and had it manufactured by Shapeways during their Black Friday free shipping sale.  Front  Back. You can also see the new 4 layer PCBs I am using. I chose the polished version of their "white strong and flexible plastic" material, since I heard that the unpolished version can come out with a somewhat coarse finish. The PCB fit perfectly but I managed to forget to add the tolerances for the 7 segment display and rotary switches and had to file it a little. Overall it feels very solid and durable and I would definitely recommend Shapeways for any type of small project like this.  Attached to an airsoft AEG test base
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Dec 28, 2012 23:03
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Dabrovnijk posted:I went down and tighten the rod pushing the engine down and my vibrations got even lower after that. I ended up using the 1/3HP motor because I couldn't get the fan blade off the 1/4HP. I tapped it most of the way off then it stuck and won't budge (someone will ask, yes I removed the set screw). I'll have to cut apart the fan housing to finish the job. If you work out the rail idea let me know as I'm starting my stand this weekend and my motor will have to travel about 6-7 inches to reach each pulley. Here's the lathe up and running. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzcB5QV-59g
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Dec 29, 2012 07:29
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wormil posted:I ended up using the 1/3HP motor because I couldn't get the fan blade off the 1/4HP. I tapped it most of the way off then it stuck and won't budge (someone will ask, yes I removed the set screw). I'll have to cut apart the fan housing to finish the job. If you work out the rail idea let me know as I'm starting my stand this weekend and my motor will have to travel about 6-7 inches to reach each pulley. Awesome, some day I'd like to get into wood turning... What are you making there? Wood freaks me out. It's got grain, it's got knots, and it seems unpredictable. If you take off too much you can't just weld more back on, and for some reason it is a lot harder for me to be precise when working with wood than metal. Carving it by hand is fun but always run into the same issues. What I'm saying is that people that work with wood and are good at it are my heroes 
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Dec 29, 2012 18:27
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apatite posted:Awesome, some day I'd like to get into wood turning... What are you making there? Just a cylinder for practice. Eventually I'll make something out of it.
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Dec 29, 2012 19:43
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wormil posted:I ended up using the 1/3HP motor because I couldn't get the fan blade off the 1/4HP. I tapped it most of the way off then it stuck and won't budge (someone will ask, yes I removed the set screw). I'll have to cut apart the fan housing to finish the job. If you work out the rail idea let me know as I'm starting my stand this weekend and my motor will have to travel about 6-7 inches to reach each pulley. If I ever do I will. To much ends up with thoughts that doesn't come through. I started to look for ideas for the stand and making simple plans some six months ago. And the room I built was beginning as an idea perhaps 3-4 months ago. Already having them done is for me pretty fast.
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Dec 29, 2012 21:26
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Not as amazing as everything else in this thread, but I'm pretty proud of this Gunslinger shirt I made for my brother for his birthday using stencils and bleach: 
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Dec 29, 2012 21:53
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Dabrovnijk posted:If I ever do I will. To much ends up with thoughts that doesn't come through. I started to look for ideas for the stand and making simple plans some six months ago. And the room I built was beginning as an idea perhaps 3-4 months ago. Here is the stand I'm building, copied from this guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkX2-0PP3Jg&feature=share&list=PLEe3FbxhHqCcUri3V6Nd1F6gG3-3ykxyK  Click here to view the full image I'm skimping on the casters because I already have a cheap set, later I can upgrade to better.
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Dec 29, 2012 22:02
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MisterFusion posted:Not as amazing as everything else in this thread, but I'm pretty proud of this Gunslinger shirt I made for my brother for his birthday using stencils and bleach: That is pretty awesome.
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Dec 31, 2012 15:36
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MisterFusion posted:Not as amazing as everything else in this thread, but I'm pretty proud of this Gunslinger shirt I made for my brother for his birthday using stencils and bleach: I just read (most of the first book). I couldn't get into it, but this shirt is amazing!
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Dec 31, 2012 18:25
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MisterFusion posted:Not as amazing as everything else in this thread, but I'm pretty proud of this Gunslinger shirt I made for my brother for his birthday using stencils and bleach: You definately haven't forgotten the face of your father, great work.
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Dec 31, 2012 18:59
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MisterFusion posted:Not as amazing as everything else in this thread, but I'm pretty proud of this Gunslinger shirt I made for my brother for his birthday using stencils and bleach: You should be proud, this is really awesome! Did you document the process at all?
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Dec 31, 2012 19:23
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dreesemonkey posted:I just read (most of the first book). I couldn't get into it, but this shirt is amazing! I was the exact same way. My brother tried to get me to read the books several times and for some reason I just can't get into it :-/ Parachute posted:You should be proud, this is really awesome! Did you document the process at all? I didn't, sadly. It was very complicated though, and when dealing with bleach, I'm in complete amazement I didn't gently caress up ruining the shirt. When doing this, these stencils are one use, so if you gently caress up the shirt, it's back to cutting a brand new stencil. If anyone is interested in making one, I'd be happy to detail the process, but it was fairly complicated.
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Dec 31, 2012 22:17
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MisterFusion posted:I didn't, sadly. It was very complicated though, and when dealing with bleach, I'm in complete amazement I didn't gently caress up ruining the shirt. When doing this, these stencils are one use, so if you gently caress up the shirt, it's back to cutting a brand new stencil. If anyone is interested in making one, I'd be happy to detail the process, but it was fairly complicated. Yes, we are.
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Jan 1, 2013 03:25
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Rockis Dukakis posted:Yes, we are. Alrighty then. Here' goes! How to make a Gunslinger Bleached shirt: Items needed: Bleach Black cotton T-shirt Iron Spray bottle with a VERY fine mist (I prefer this type)http://i.imgur.com/pkTjs.jpg Something rigid to place the shirt on (I use 24x24in sheet rock from lowes cut to the appropriate width) Freezer paper Xacto knife tape measure Paper towels Rubber gloves 1. Decide how tall you'd like the gunslinger stencil to be by measuring on the shirt. There's no need to take width into account, it should all scale nicely. 2. Using whatever program you can, blow up the stencil and print it out onto several sheets of paper. I made sure that there was some overlap on each sheet so I could more easily line up the different pieces 3. Piece together the printed stencil. 4. unroll enough strips of freezer paper to cover the entire stencil. Place it on the printed stencil plastic side down. You should be able to see the printed version through the paper 5. Trace the outline of the stencil 6. Use the Xacto knife to cut out the stencil NOTE: When you're ready to get started on the actual shirt, mix a 50/50 bleach to water solution in the spray bottle, and pour some 100% bleach into a small cup 7. Stretch the shirt over the rigid thing (cardboard could work). This is so the shirt won't wrinkle, and so bleach won't leak through to the back. 8. Place the gunslinger stencil on first PLASTIC SIDE DOWN. Start with the bottom pieces and work your way up. 9. Once it's resting on the shirt how you'd like it, run an iron over it. This will seal the freezer paper to the shirt giving the crisp lines 11. Start at the bottom and hold the spray bottle so the spray will come out almost parallel to the shirt. Spraky toward to top of the shirt NOTE: IMMEDIATELY DAB OFF THE PAPER THOROUGHLY with paper towels THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT and will prevent bleeding 12. After you've dabbed, run an iron over the spots where you've just bleached from bottom to the top of the shirt. This will lighten up the bleached area. 13. Continue steps 11 - 12 until the gunslinger is outlined. Pay special attention to the open holes within his outline and make sure they're filled thoroughly - uniformily bleached brightly, in other words. 14. Now, place the Dark Tower stencil next to the gunslinger, and use any remaining paper to cover the holes within the gunslingers outline. 15. Repeat steps 11 - 12 for the Dark Tower. 16. Dip a gloved hand in the cup with 100% bleach, let the excess drip off, and then flick your fingers across the top of the shirt 17. Pat the iron across the droplets (don't drag it across, they might smear). This will turn them white. 18. Peel off the stencils, dip the whole thing in water, wash, and wear. I hope that was clear and concise enough. I'd be happy to answer any questions if any part was unclear. The most important things while doing this: Dab immediately after spraying, don't soak the shirt (a mist will do fine) STENCILS: http://i.imgur.com/fyLf7.jpg http://i.imgur.com/OHbNV.jpg
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Jan 2, 2013 02:03
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You are the best! I will be testing this out in the near future (and I will post my results as well).
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Jan 2, 2013 05:41
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Dabrovnijk posted:If I ever do I will. To much ends up with thoughts that doesn't come through. I started to look for ideas for the stand and making simple plans some six months ago. And the room I built was beginning as an idea perhaps 3-4 months ago. I'm the same way. Sometimes I plan something in my head for months or years before ever getting around to it; but sometimes I get an idea and just go right at it. This lathe was like that although the idea of having a lathe has been kicking around for years. If you're interested, I've been posting progress pics in the woodworking thread. I ended up hanging the motor off the back because it was simpler. Once I get a pulley on there I'll have an idea about vibration. 
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Jan 5, 2013 07:16
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This was an old project but some tweaking today reminded me of it. I've an old Sansui 1000X AM/FM Stereo Amplifier that had a great number of burned out bulbs in the display. After the usual tune ups and adjustments, and finding that I couldn't find the correct fuse lamps for the lights, I did what any sensible person would do and re-lamped it with LEDs. The pointer and the PHONO, AUX, AM/FM, and FM STEREO indicators proved to be the tricky part (someone made both white and colored LED fuse lamps to spec for the main dial and the S meter, thank god). The pointer was a real bitch. It was a tiny incandescent bulb potted in wax that had to be taken out, but it did come out without damage, mercifully.  So I went to the Digi-Key catalog, ordered appropriate LEDs, some tiny resistors, and went to work. I had to trim off the base of the pointer LED to get it to fit in the pointer body, but fit it did! After soldering a resistor in-line (with enough play for the pointer to move), I encased the whole shebang in shrink tubing and secured Mr. LED with Loc-Tite. The other indicators got similar treatment, though they don't move.  Sweet. Looks better than the day it was built.
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Jan 9, 2013 04:35
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MisterFusion posted:Not as amazing as everything else in this thread, but I'm pretty proud of this Gunslinger shirt I made for my brother for his birthday using stencils and bleach: drat that looks nice! Never done any shirts, but that sure makes me want to give it a shot. and here's my first attempt with glass etching liquid 
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Jan 12, 2013 22:40
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I recently participated in an iron pour for the first time. This is a heavy-rear end helmet that I made. If anyone is interested I have progress pictures and can detail the process.   Mister Fusion: Thank you so much for providing the stencils! As soon as I saw that shirt I knew I had to try it but was dreading recreating that image. Turdo fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Jan 15, 2013 |
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Jan 15, 2013 12:06
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unabaumer posted:I recently participated in an iron pour for the first time. This is a heavy-rear end helmet that I made. If anyone is interested I have progress pictures and can detail the process. I don't think you need to ask if we want details and progress pictures, because that's badass. Looks like a Robert Baratheon helmet, but I'm not sure what the nose is all about.
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Jan 15, 2013 18:06
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Looks like some sort of a plague mask/shaman helmet combination, also really drat cool! And yes, details please.
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Jan 15, 2013 18:39
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Finally getting my AV system installed the way I want. Went from this, with wires strewn everywhere (this is actually after a partial-cleanup I did in preparation for the project...before, the receiver was on the floor in the middle there and the bluray and directv boxes were on the shelf, and there were literally wires eeeeeeverywhere.)  To this, with all the wires run through the walls:  There's still work to be done, I'm going to put in some actual shelving for the gear on the left there, and I'm going to add a patch panel for my computer on the other side of that wall to hook up to the receiver in this room. Still, got the speakers and tv all wired through the walls and I'm super happy with the installation so far. Now, each speaker just has something like this:    And the tv has this:  And the receiver et al. has this: 
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Jan 15, 2013 19:06
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MarshallX posted:I don't think you need to ask if we want details and progress pictures, because that's badass. Thanks! And yeah, the face is a costume plague doctor mask. I've only lurked here so far so I wasn't sure about throwing up a huge picture heavy post without some feedback first. I'm a sculpture student and this is one of several projects I've done while toying around with a thesis idea. I'm considering making dark fantasy/militaria "relics" and presenting them as though they are a museum exhibit by a fictional archeologist. I'm just not sure if it sounds too contrived and I'll have to do some research to see if it's been done before. This was my first experience pouring anything larger than jewelry-sized pieces and also my first iron pour. I first had to sculpt the thing I wanted to cast, then make a mold around it. The mold is made up of two halves that fit together with an opening at the neck of the sculpture for the metal to be poured in. Since I used clay, my model was completely destroyed by pulling it out of the mold. I could have used a harder medium such as plaster to make it but because of the detail and shape the plaster positive could have chipped off pieces of my mold when I removed it. It was a nerve-wracking process since not only was my sculpture destroyed but the mold is only usable one time as it has to be chipped and hammered off of the cast iron. So if anything hosed up I'd be back at square one.  This is my original sculpt. Clay formed over a styrofoam head with a vinyl mask on the front.  Half submerged in sand. From here I'll cover it in a mixture of fine sand and resin to make the first half of the mold. It's black from a coating of graphite that will (hopefully) help get the clay model out of the mold smoothly.  That half of the mold has hardened, so it's flipped over and notches are carved into the sides to make the halves fit together. I'll coat it all in graphite to keep the next half from adhering to this one.  Here's one half with the positive removed.  Both halves about to get glued together. The piece in the middle is suspended by pins so that the casting will be hollow.  Unfortunately I don't have any images of the pouring process, but it involved a huge outdoor kiln and using a crucible that required two people to pour molten iron into the molds. [timg]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d63/swanboy123/antler%20helm/377488_10151135786824825_930685136_n_zps81355bf0.jpg[/img] I had a lot of extra material to grind off. It ended up being about an inch thick. I was hoping for it to be about an eighth of an inch. Regrettably that difference made the interior diameter to small for it to be wearable (as did the added weight) so this will have to be a purely sculptural piece.  It was colored by heating it with a torch and applying layers of different oxidizing chemicals. This is immediately afterwards, unless sealed it will fade to more muted rust tones. I also bolted some antlers on. I'm completely happy with it. Even though it's not wearable I think I managed to present it in a way that it looks as though it is.
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Jan 16, 2013 06:09
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Great job, you got it on the first try. First off forging metal is metal. That metal helmet crazy awesome. I personally think it looks great as just metal. The paint on it confuses me though. It looks like a clay object which looks good but then why not do a plaster form? The whole thing is good the colors just lost me.
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Jan 16, 2013 09:20
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Thanks. I really did enjoy the color of the metal but all the grinding I had to do to clean up the parting line and edges left a lot of seriously noticeable texture. As for the color, I was going for a rusted/corroded feel, like it has been lying around in a crypt or something for years.
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Jan 16, 2013 12:17
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Bad Munki posted:Finally getting my AV system installed the way I want. Did you saw holes in drywall to get the lines around? I've been wanting to do this without screwing up my walls.
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Jan 16, 2013 22:28
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McBeth posted:Did you saw holes in drywall to get the lines around? I've been wanting to do this without screwing up my walls. Yeah, I just cut the holes with a dremel and a spiral bit, and then put in old-work low-voltage receptacles (except the recessed one, which has a low-voltage open side and a high voltage enclosed side.) It was pretty easy for me in this case because my house is a split-level, so the back side of that wall is open to my basement about mid-way up. I still need to run wires and receptacles for my rear speakers, which is going to be a much bigger chore, due to the inaccessibility of it all. What I'll probably do in that case is actually pop the siding off the house, run the cables along the outside, and then just drill back in where the receptacles will be, and then put the siding back over the wires. That way I won't have to deal with patching holes in drywall all over the place, since the route would be pretty crazy to avoid all the ducting in this part of the house. Super worth it, every time I come in here I marvel at the beauty of it all. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jan 16, 2013 |
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Jan 16, 2013 23:46
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Bad Munki posted:Super worth it, every time I come in here I marvel at the beauty of it all.  Great work!
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Jan 17, 2013 11:31
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, I just cut the holes with a dremel and a spiral bit, and then put in old-work low-voltage receptacles (except the recessed one, which has a low-voltage open side and a high voltage enclosed side.) It was pretty easy for me in this case because my house is a split-level, so the back side of that wall is open to my basement about mid-way up. I still need to run wires and receptacles for my rear speakers, which is going to be a much bigger chore, due to the inaccessibility of it all. What I'll probably do in that case is actually pop the siding off the house, run the cables along the outside, and then just drill back in where the receptacles will be, and then put the siding back over the wires. That way I won't have to deal with patching holes in drywall all over the place, since the route would be pretty crazy to avoid all the ducting in this part of the house. What height did you mount your TV at? I have mine on the wall the exact same way, but much higher. Part of me wants to bring it down a foot, but god I can't imagine filling all the holes I put in for running cables through the wall... 
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Jan 17, 2013 17:46
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I guessed where to put mind by working from (roughly) head-height when sitting on my couch. For a computer monitor, I read at some point that the "optimal" height was to have the top of the screen at or just above eye-level, like 1-2" above at arm's reach. Of course, sitting on most couches, that would put a good size tv barely a foot above the floor, and in a couch, you're naturally more reclined than sitting in an office chair. With all that in mind, I just kinda guessed and ended up with eye-level being about 1/3 of the way up, so that 1/3 of the tv is below eye level and 2/3 is above eye level. I've had it at that height for about 6 months and it feels really good and natural, I don't feel like my head is tipped at a weird angle, I can look back and forth between my laptop and the tv with just moving my eyes, it just all feels really natural. For reference, it's about 10' from my couch to the tv. The actual height of the tv is about 29" at the bottom and 57" at the top (it's a 46" tv). I think it's easy to mount them too high because when you're mounting it, you're standing next to it, and that makes it feel lower than it really is. You really gotta use your sitting height when placing the thing. But yeah, zero complaints whatsoever with it at that height. How many holes did you really put in the wall, anyhow? In my case it's just one big one for the recessed receptacle. And if your holes are all near the bottom of the tv, where the various plugs usually are, you could probably get away without doing anything but shifting the wall-mount down, since the tv would still cover up the holes.
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Jan 17, 2013 18:00
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Bad Munki posted:I guessed where to put mind by working from (roughly) head-height when sitting on my couch. For a computer monitor, I read at some point that the "optimal" height was to have the top of the screen at or just above eye-level, like 1-2" above at arm's reach. Of course, sitting on most couches, that would put a good size tv barely a foot above the floor, and in a couch, you're naturally more reclined than sitting in an office chair. With all that in mind, I just kinda guessed and ended up with eye-level being about 1/3 of the way up, so that 1/3 of the tv is below eye level and 2/3 is above eye level. I've had it at that height for about 6 months and it feels really good and natural, I don't feel like my head is tipped at a weird angle, I can look back and forth between my laptop and the tv with just moving my eyes, it just all feels really natural. For reference, it's about 10' from my couch to the tv. The actual height of the tv is about 29" at the bottom and 57" at the top (it's a 46" tv). I think it's easy to mount them too high because when you're mounting it, you're standing next to it, and that makes it feel lower than it really is. You really gotta use your sitting height when placing the thing. The HDMI inputs on my TV are on the left hand side mounted sideways, the Component inputs are directly on the back, the bracket is bolted to two studs behind the wall with giant 1/2" bolts. Hole on left of the TV, hole behind the panel, two holes for bolts that I'd have to fill. They are all visible if I move the TV to a proper height. Quite the oversight by me, all things considered 
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Jan 18, 2013 22:30
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Just finished my most recent project. In our hallway we had a long, narrow closet - Around 8'x3'. The door was on the end so it was not real user friendly. After some planning we decided to turn it into two closets, a small linen closet using the door that was already there, and then a bigger closet with bifold doors opening on the lengthwise wall. Turned out really great, though it's amazing how expensive that shelving poo poo gets. Probably 60% of the total cost was in shelving costs. Those freaking brackets are $5-6 a peice. Oh well. Definitely worth it in the end. Before full of poo poo - as you can see it's not very useable.  Empty - pretty good size  Before outside wall  After linen closet (before waintscot, etc)  After outside wall (hadn't done the floor or threshold yet, but you get the idea)  After larger closet portion (can't see too well but there are two rows of hanging shelves to the right)  If I were to do it again I think I'd spend more time doing it and get rid of the paneling in the closet and just go right for drywall - easier to work with though it would have taken a lot more time to finish. The wife also wants a light in the linen closet, but I have argued it's fine as is.
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Jan 19, 2013 17:14
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They sell closet lights that are battery powered that you just stick right onto the wall/ceiling. Might be a nice compromise
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Jan 20, 2013 01:07
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