|
You could also just recharge them! http://www.afrotechmods.com/reallycheap/batteries/batts.htm
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 15:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 10:47 |
|
|
Corla Plankun posted:You could also just recharge them! http://www.afrotechmods.com/reallycheap/batteries/batts.htm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brdmnUBAS00
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 15:37
|
|
|
Linear PSU design time! Okay, we have 2x18VAC coming into the PSU i'm designing. I want +/- 15VDC at up to about an amp, maybe? I'm using LM7815 and LM7915 regulators. How much capacitance, before and after the regulators, should I be ballparking? What are decent ripple limits for bipolar power supplies feeding audio gear?
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 19:09
|
|
|
I need some advice for repairing a torn flexible PCB (I hope this is the right thread, I didn't see a repair thread or anything like that). I've been modifying a teleconverter for a camera, and because I tried to open the thing up as little as possible, thinking it would be hell to put it back together, I was putting more strain on the PCB than I realized while working on it. Of course after I opened it up to see how to repair the tear, it turns out it's trivial to put it back together again. Here's a photo of the tear: There's 3 broken lanes, and one that's torn into a bit. I'm hoping I can just leave the one that's just a bit torn alone, and fix the other three. Once that's repaired and I put it all back together, it should all be stationary, although there will be vibrations through the whole thing, while focusing and while firing the shutter. I don't know if that's a problem for some repair methods. From what I've read so far there's no great/reliable/easy way to do it. As far as I know, the first step would be to strip off the top layer to expose the bare metal on each of the 3 broken connections. Should I just scrape at it with an exacto knife, or maybe be really gentle with a Dremel? How easy would it be to accidentally go all the way through and cause even more damage (both with the knife or the dremel)? Any ideas on what the best method would be? I have a pretty fine tipped soldering iron, so I'd be up for soldering the joints back together if that has any chance of working. Or maybe I should solder some thin wires from the actual components, across the torn gap. Then I could cut away some more of the PCB to stagger the joints. What are the chances that I end up melting through the PCB and ruining it even more? I can work pretty quickly, but I have no experience with this at all. Unfortunately I also don't have any flex PCBs lying around to practice on. Maybe I should find one somewhere. Could I just buy some conductive tape and cut it very thin? This seems like it's by far the least risky method, since I could just keep trying with no risk of melting anything or ripping it even more. Thanks for your help! Oh and in case anyone is interested, here's part 1 of the mod itself, which was working great:  This is the other side of that flex cable. The teleconverter is old and meant for film cameras, so to make it work on digital cameras, I basically had to move one of the contacts to a new position, which I did by soldering that blue little wire to one of the springs that's used to hold it all together. When the teleconverter is all hooked up, there are 5 contacts total that talk to the camera, with springs and bits of metal that look like tiny bullets. Without the modification, the camera thinks there is a fully manual lens attached. This teleconverter is special, though, because the elements in it can move, giving the lens you attach to it some limited autofocus capability, even if the lens is fully manual (as far as I know, the only way to get autofocus with a manual lens). With the modification, the digital camera thinks there's an autofocus lens attached, and will actually drive the focus. Part 2 of the mod is to disconnect 2 of the pins on the chip in the first picture (bottom row, 2nd and 3rd from the right). This ends up helping the camera meter better, and apparently improves the accuracy of the autofocus. This has to do with the fact that chipped lenses for Nikon send some information about themselves to the camera to help with that sort of thing. By disconnecting those pins, the chip reports a specific lens to the camera that has specs that are close to what you would actually use with the teleconverter. This same chip was actually used for 4 different lenses by Nikon, and the state of those two pins determines which lens it thinks it is. This is the part where I tore the cable, because I was pulling up on the chip, which I had to do because I didn't want to open the teleconverter up all the way. I'd be happy to explain more/clarify anything if people are interested, although this goes more into photography than electronics, really.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 20:43
|
|
|
I'm honestly not sure how feasible it is to repair flex circuits, but I know that it looks hard. I don't know what sort of solder resist they use, but due to the fragility, it might be worth finding out if it can be removed with a solvent instead of scraping it off (although this could damage the underlying plastic, so I don't know). If that could be done, you might be able to overlay part of the broken section and solder it together, and then encapsulate that poo poo in epoxy or hot glue to keep the added stress of those solder joints from tearing it further. However, I would probably ignore the flex PCB and repair the traces manually. Those 3 traces go to 2 passives and an IC,and look like you should be able to tack on wirewrap wire to the existing solder joints and then run those wires to wherever the flex circuit terminates. Along the way, you'd tack the wires to the flex circuit in a few places with silicone adhesive or something. Wirewrap wire is really thin, but may still be too big to work here...
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 20:54
|
|
|
I want to use a voltage multiplier to charge up a large cap bank, and I'm trying to estimate roughly how quickly this would charge depending on the number of stages and the value of the caps used in the voltage multiplier. Any ideas how to go about calculating this?
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 21:03
|
|
|
Jonny 290 posted:Linear PSU design time! Strictly speaking you only need enough capacitance to ensure the ripple dips won't fall below the dropout voltage for the regulator. Using this calculator http://www.changpuak.ch/electronics/power_supply_design.php I got a value of about 2200µF minimum, 4700µ would be a good value, going above that would be more or less pointless. For the output capacitance you need at least 1µF, 4.7-20µF X5R/X7R ceramic is a good amount (or a 10-100µF Y7R). This will ensure that the regulator is stable, any more does decrease the output impedance of the supply, but it also means the peak short circuit current will be much higher which may not be what you want. I'd put a few µ of good quality ceramic (or a bunch of electrolytics I guess) at the regulator then locally bypass each section with good ceramics instead of trying to build a capacitive discharge welder power supply at the far end of an inductive power cable. The regulated supply will basically have no ripple, since the ripple rejection at 100-120Hz (using figures for the LT1963, a slightly higher end device) is well over 60dB. On top of that, a typical high end opamp can acheive around 100dB rejection at those frequencies. I'm not sure what a typical bipolar amplifier will have in terms of rejection, I imagine it would be fairly poor compared to the opamp with no negative feedback, with feedback it would depend on the topology and how well the reference element can reject power supply noise (so for a hybrid discrete+opamp circuit the opamp would extend the PSRR to any element in the feedback loop).
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 21:33
|
|
|
Slanderer posted:However, I would probably ignore the flex PCB and repair the traces manually. Those 3 traces go to 2 passives and an IC,and look like you should be able to tack on wirewrap wire to the existing solder joints and then run those wires to wherever the flex circuit terminates. Along the way, you'd tack the wires to the flex circuit in a few places with silicone adhesive or something. Wirewrap wire is really thin, but may still be too big to work here... Just thought I would say that this is exactly my suggestion, too. Don't try to fix the flexible traces...you'll melt the substrate and lift the traces and it will be a giant mess. Running Kynar wire-wrap wire from the components at each end is a much better idea. I think with a good iron tip and a steady hand you should be able to to make the joint.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 23:09
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Just thought I would say that this is exactly my suggestion, too. Don't try to fix the flexible traces...you'll melt the substrate and lift the traces and it will be a giant mess. Running Kynar wire-wrap wire from the components at each end is a much better idea. I think with a good iron tip and a steady hand you should be able to to make the joint. After messing around with some 30 gauge wire, I don't think I'd be able to route it same way as the flex PCB. Unfortunately there isn't any way to route the wire without cutting something. Which might be fine, I'll have to spend some time looking at all the mechanics inside the teleconverter. There's probably a place I can make a hole. I don't think it gets any better even with thinner wire, the PCB disappears into some plastic for a while and there's some twists and turns in there that would make things really difficult even with a thin wire, even with the PCB gone. And I don't want to chop off the PCB entirely, since it's still got 2 good traces on it. I can't even route the wires around the outside of the teleconverter, because they would interfere with mounting it to the camera then. Man, I've never screwed up a DIY job this bad, before :/. Oh well, it will be a good experience once I fix it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 00:26
|
|
|
It might be easier to see if you can find one that is broken for another reason, then cannibalize it for parts.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 00:33
|
|
|
What about trying to back the flex cable with some tape of some kind, then try to use a conductive pen to fill in the gap for each trace?
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 04:51
|
|
|
I hate flex cable, I can't can't count the number of those I've replaced while in the military. We never repaired, always replaced. Any heat is going to damage the flex cable even more. There's no way to fit thin wires into the Assembly? Epoxy them to the back or front of the flex cable.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 06:07
|
|
|
longview posted:Strictly speaking you only need enough capacitance to ensure the ripple dips won't fall below the dropout voltage for the regulator. Thanks, this is great. I'm building a replacement PSU for this lovely Behringer mixer I have that delivered juice via a $0.50 switching PSU board, so I assume it was putting out some pretty noisy shitpower, I think I will be able to improve on it. Second question: I need +5V in this thing as well just for a bit of logic, am I risking unbalancing the PSU rails by hanging a 7805 off the positive rail (after the filter cap, before the 7815)? I believe current draw is minimal, under 100 mA on the +5. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jun 25, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 18:15
|
|
|
theperminator posted:What about trying to back the flex cable with some tape of some kind, then try to use a conductive pen to fill in the gap for each trace? Conductive ink has a lot of drawbacks, and will almost certainly lead to open circuits or shorts in the long term. Once you cure it, it may become more brittle, and you also can't guarantee proper adhesion to the traces. Were you a level 15 soldermancer, you might be able to abuse flux and a thin tip to the point that you could reflow just those traces along a whisker-thin portion of tinned wire and fix the trace. Heat is an issue, yes, but not an intractable one--these assemblies are soldered to begin with, albeit probably via IR. It might be possible, but it would definitely be very hard, and the surface area is small enough that a workable solder joint might be impossible.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 18:48
|
|
|
peepsalot posted:I want to use a voltage multiplier to charge up a large cap bank, and I'm trying to estimate roughly how quickly this would charge depending on the number of stages and the value of the caps used in the voltage multiplier. I'm not sure that solving this directly is really feasible, unless you're dealing with an edge case (ie, you can assume that the intermediate caps in the multiplier can charge stupid-fast, and it's only the RC time of the last one you need to worry about). In reality, though, I'd try to set this up in a simulator instead. As long as you have datasheets for your caps, and a sufficiently-ideal power supply, then simulating this should be trivial (as the characteristics of the diodes are much less important)
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 18:53
|
|
|
Slanderer posted:I'm not sure that solving this directly is really feasible, unless you're dealing with an edge case (ie, you can assume that the intermediate caps in the multiplier can charge stupid-fast, and it's only the RC time of the last one you need to worry about).
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 18:56
|
|
|
Jonny 290 posted:Thanks, this is great. I'm building a replacement PSU for this lovely Behringer mixer I have that delivered juice via a $0.50 switching PSU board, so I assume it was putting out some pretty noisy shitpower, I think I will be able to improve on it. Do it. Also - am I the only one around here who just picks bypass caps psuedo-randomly? I just grab a reasonable sized electrolytic and ceramic from my junk drawer. Sagebrush posted:Just thought I would say that this is exactly my suggestion, too. Don't try to fix the flexible traces...you'll melt the substrate and lift the traces and it will be a giant mess. Running Kynar wire-wrap wire from the components at each end is a much better idea. I think with a good iron tip and a steady hand you should be able to to make the joint. The only caveat is if the space is small, the flex circuit may need to be removed in order to make room for the 30+ gauge wire.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 19:36
|
|
|
Delta-Wye posted:Do it. I doubt it, but there are better ways to pick caps. Especially when you're concerned with cost/size/reliability. If you know the expected transient currents, try to size the caps so that they can provide the charge. Small caps are better for lower impedance at higher frequencies, but that's more a function of the packaging and intrinsic parasitics of the part. Make sure to understand the ripple current and the type of load you will be placing on the capacitors. Remember that ceramic caps change value when you put a voltage on them, change the temperature, or look at them funny. Higher quality ceramics like X7R or X5R reduce this behavior. Most ceramic material is piezoelectric, so it will pickup vibration induced noise - this is only really important for signal path capacitors, like in filters or feedback networks. C0G/NP0 are the exceptions, so use them if you care about loop response. It's safe to use ceramic caps up to their rated voltage, keeping in mind the loss of capacitance. Try to keep 2x-3x margin on aluminum electrolytic, and especially tantalums (tant poly and AlOrg are exceptions). When designing switching supplies, balance the charge capacity of the input and output capacitance. I.e. if you're stepping 12v down to 3.3v, and you need 100 uF on the 3.3v side you should have at least 27 uF on the input. For linear supplies, input caps matter less if you follow the rule of sizing output caps for your worst case transients, but they are important. Charge must come from somewhere. Too much capacitance with too low ESR can cause problems if the power nets are too inductive, especially when feeding high transient loads (like switchers). How much is too much? Q=1/R * sqrt(L/C), try to keep Q<0.7.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2013 00:09
|
|
|
SnoPuppy posted:I doubt it, but there are better ways to pick caps. Especially when you're concerned with cost/size/reliability. Tons of good information there. I guess I was mostly talking about the "lets just plug this in and see what happens" breadboarding at my desk. I do far too much of that and not enough engineering 
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2013 00:32
|
|
|
Worse is Better 
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2013 00:40
|
|
|
Delta-Wye posted:Tons of good information there. I guess I was mostly talking about the "lets just plug this in and see what happens" breadboarding at my desk. Nothing wrong with that. There's too much good practice in this thread anyway; don't keep that magic smoke all cooped up inside all the time!
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2013 00:46
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Nothing wrong with that. There's too much good practice in this thread anyway; don't keep that magic smoke all cooped up inside all the time! I made a 5v->70v stepper the other day out of a PIC with a simple bang-bang controller for feedback and literally random parts from my bin and a haphazard schematic from memory (hey! an inductor, you go there...). I was very disappointed with the lack of smoke, especially considering how I made sure all of the parts were specced for at least 30v (well, the caps at any rate) because I wasn't expecting it to work as well as it did. Sometimes doing it right takes the fun out of it  In my defense, the plan was random parts -> calculated parts -> PID (or probably PI) loop so I could do efficiency comparisons between all of them. Plus, I need like 130V out or something so it's not like my random assortment was actually doing the job. That said, SnoPuppy's cap post is going in my goonelectronics.txt file; it's a great synopsis of the steps to do it right.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2013 00:55
|
|
|
I'm sure this varies store-to-store, but my local radio shack was unloading Arduino ethernet shields (with the W5100 chip) for $20. That's still more than the random chinese ones on ebay, but a pittance compared to the $45-55 most places charge for the real ones. I think they had a motor shield or something too for like $9. I'm not really an arduino guy but it was an easy way to get an ethernet breakout which I needed.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2013 02:28
|
|
|
I was recently given three HP 853As with HP8558B and 8857B spectrum analyzer modules (0.1-1500 and 0.01-350 MHz), the analyzers work fine but the 853A CRTs are more or less finished, it's not possible to generate a sharp and bright picture at the same time, the digital modes are useless since the picture's too dim to see overlay. Fortunately the analyzers are actually very self contained units, they only actually need DC power to work, and provide oscilloscope X-Y-Z outputs that interface very nicely with my vintage HP oscilloscope. I was wondering though, if I wanted to replace the more or less dead CRTs with a LCD screen or a more modern X-Y monitor, what are my options? If I'm going to build it myself I'll probably try to build a FPGA based solution with VGA or DVI outputs, it would just require one high speed ADC and some RAM for framebuffers, I was hoping someone else had gone through the trouble for me though, and I could buy a solution that accepts X-Y-Z inputs and digitizes it for me... E: looking at the signal I'd bet a good quality audio ADC could handle that signal no problem, even the fastest sweeps are pretty slow, and having glorious 24-bit resolution on the signal would be pretty wank, sample rate could be chosen to give a natural number of samples per pixel column. longview fucked around with this message at 09:43 on Jun 27, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2013 09:21
|
|
|
Yikes, haven't posted in here in ages. Okay, quick question. I'm looking at the following two RGB LED strips - 12v: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2013.../892745110.html 5v: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-new-5M-5050-SMD-Waterproof-LPD8806-IC-Flexible-RGB-LED-Strip-36LEDs-m-IP67/918327670.html What I'm not clear on is if there is any actual difference in the LEDs themselves. I.e., would the 12v model be driving brighter LEDs? Or is just populated with component values meant to accept a 12v supply, but the LEDs are driven the same?
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 04:05
|
|
|
Can't answer your actual question, but I do want to point out that if LED density is a factor, definitely check out the new ws2811 strips. They're similar to the 2801, but they have the IC built right into the LED itself, so you get 60 LEDs per meter and can still hack them up to your heart's content. And if you're doing it on an arduino, FastSPI already supports them. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 04:22
|
|
|
Ugh.... this 0.5mm pitch LQFP-64 is kicking my rear end. I couldn't clean up the bridges with the flux & drag trick with my hoof tip, so I had to use some solder wick. And of course now I'm afraid I've got dry joints. All the way down to about 0.65mm is a piece of cake doing drag soldering with a good hoof tip, but 0.5 is a bridge too far, I guess.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 04:40
|
|
|
Rescue Toaster posted:a bridge too far 
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 04:51
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Can't answer your actual question, but I do want to point out that if LED density is a factor, definitely check out the new ws2811 strips. They're similar to the 2801, but they have the IC built right into the LED itself, so you get 60 LEDs per meter and can still hack them up to your heart's content. Ah, thanks for the suggestion. Actually, LED density is a factor but I want them less dense - about 1 every 6cm - as I want to put half-ping pong balls over top to act as diffusers. Those ws2811 strips are a better option though since I can chop them up; whereas the strips I was looking at are wired two LEDs per IC. edit: Although reading more about the chip, I am a little worried about the data clocking business. Cyril Sneer fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Jun 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 15:48
|
|
|
What platform are you doing this on? Like I said, if it's arduino, just grab the fastspi library and be done, it's so incredibly simple and well-made. Anyhow, if you want single-LED segments, the ws2801 is also an option. The scheme there is pretty darn simple: you just shift data out and each segment forwards it on to the next until you pause for 500µs, at which point everything latches and displays. Each segment has its own 3-channel PWM controller, so you get a full range of colors. But again, for that, fastspi is the bee's knees.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Jun 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 17:17
|
|
|
I managed to clean up my 0.5mm LQFP-64 package in the light of day. It actually wasn't too bad once I got it in direct sunlight and took a look. I switched from the hoof tip to just a good clean chisel and lots of flux and was able to reflow everything and check the fillets. The big problem was the board (A Dangerous Prototypes bus blaster 3 PCB that I got months and months ago in one of his PCB giveaways) has a footprint that leaves almost no exposed pad past the end of the legs, so there's nowhere to get the iron except right up on the legs, basically. And drag soldering up in the bend of the legs is not going to work so hot. I also soldered up another one of my AT90USB162 breakouts this morning while I was in the shop, that turned out OK too. It's going to be used as a USB<->Uart bridge to a RN-42 Bluetooth module (running at 500kbps serial) so I can do some testing of bluetooth performance on my android phone and tablet.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 17:46
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Can't answer your actual question, but I do want to point out that if LED density is a factor, definitely check out the new ws2811 strips. They're similar to the 2801, but they have the IC built right into the LED itself, so you get 60 LEDs per meter and can still hack them up to your heart's content. FastSPI drives the WS2811 a bit out of it's timing spec, which can cause issues depending on just how tolerant your batch of chips were. I'd recommend this library instead.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 18:03
|
|
|
Aurium posted:FastSPI drives the WS2811 a bit out of it's timing spec, which can cause issues depending on just how tolerant your batch of chips were. I'd recommend this library instead. Is that true of the new release candidate that just dropped two days ago? It includes a number of bug fixes. Honest question because I don't actually have any 2811s yet. :P e: also, not sure when you last checked it out, but FastSPI_LED2 is light years beyond the old FastSPI. A lot of thought and effort went into making it what it needed to be, and it really shows. I didn't even release there was a new version, I was just trying to grab the latest code for some teensy support and then WHAM FEATURES and I've been having a blast ever since. 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Jun 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 18:10
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Is that true of the new release candidate that just dropped two days ago? It includes a number of bug fixes. Honest question because I don't actually have any 2811s yet. :P That's a very good question, I didn't know about their new version. It appears that they've been working to fix it. I found this on their bug tracker: quote:Which version of the library are you using? The first major library version works with all the ws2811 strips I have but apparently its timing is outside the tolerances of some of the manufacturers. For fastspi_led2 I've been verifying timing values with a logic scope - though it's been a couple of weeks since I've re verified the timings on arduino, I've been focusing on some teensy3 related issues.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 18:26
|
|
|
I'm just concerned about compatibility. I have an older Arduino board - either a Deumilianove or the Decimilia (don't have it in front of me) which I believe uses the ATmega168 MC. (Although I'll have to find a solution with more on-board memory at some point, as I'm intending to drive ~300 pixels)
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 20:04
|
|
|
Pretty sure I've driven 2 meters of ws2801 with FastSPI on my ancient NG without any trouble, sooooo... But if you're looking to upgrade while still staying in the arduino world, get a teensy 3 and never look back. They are better in every single way, from size to specs to cost. I will never buy another vanilla arduino again.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jun 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 20:17
|
|
|
Ah, that teensy 3 does look nice. I'm going to give it (running the LEDs that is) a try on my current Arduino board first but that T3 looks like it'll be a good solution for my full LED panel.
Cyril Sneer fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jun 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 21:15
|
|
|
poeticoddity posted:Can anyone recommend either a specific resource or a set of search terms for learning about keeping your electronic equipment from interfering with EM sensitive equipment? Every combination of terms I've put into google has resulted in links to forum posts about surviving an EMP and other If you're willing to elaborate on what you're building and what the issue is I may be able to offer some suggestions - I've done a fair amount of EMI stuff in the medical devices field.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 21:22
|
|
stuff, which so isn't what I'm looking for.
|
Trying to (re-?) learn eagle. I keep running into choice paralysis when it comes to picking parts, though, largely because I just don't know what I should be looking for in a particular solder mask and whatnot. Any advice or reading for someone who has basically zero experience designing PCBs and is trying to get off the ground with eagle? The schematic editing I can do fine, at least fine enough once I have my parts picked. :P
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 22:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 10:47 |
|
|
Did some testing with an RN42 bluetooth module. From up to about 20-30 feet from my thinkpad I get around 280-300kbps when I run the UART connection to the RN42 at 500,000 baud. I'll have to test performance with an android device though too, the SPP drivers for bluetooth are all over the place. EDIT: I did some testing on an HP touchpad running Cyanogenmod 9 & my Nexus 4 and got just shy of 400kbps at close range, which is about 100kbps faster than what the RN42 is even rated at. They must have made some firmware updates since it was first released. Even at longer range I still get in excess of 350kbps. So I guess the bluetooth in a phone/tablet is a little more optimized, or just doesn't have to deal with windows overhead. Bad Munki posted:Trying to (re-?) learn eagle. I keep running into choice paralysis when it comes to picking parts, though, largely because I just don't know what I should be looking for in a particular solder mask and whatnot. Any advice or reading for someone who has basically zero experience designing PCBs and is trying to get off the ground with eagle? The schematic editing I can do fine, at least fine enough once I have my parts picked. :P Generally, anything other than basic capacitors/resistors and pin headers, I basically create symbols and footprints myself. You are going to have to get into the library editor a lot eventually anyways, so you might as well get started. Rescue Toaster fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jul 1, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2013 02:22
|
|