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Baronjutter posted:I know an airbrush setup is expensive but you can get much smaller paints. I feel stupid going out and buying a $10 spray can to paint a single door green. I think I spent ~$150 for my double action paasche brush, 6' airline, a dozen extra paint jars/caps, moisture trap, and a cheap 2-gallon compressor (compressor from home depot, you don't need a special "airbrush compressor"). Compressor's noisy, but I paint in the garage anyhow. It's a good airbrush, and not knowing what I was getting into, actually turned out to be a pretty solid purchase. I expected the thing to be this terribly complex piece of finicky machinery that would just die if I failed to clean it perfectly good or whatever, it turns out they're not all that complex, and breaking it completely down to pieces for cleaning wasn't the act of horror that the internets had lead me to believe. Since I bought the thing, I haven't bought a can of spraypaint for anything, and the paint on everything I build looks about ten times as good. If you're thinking about buying one, do it, you won't regret it.
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Jun 26, 2013 23:43
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kaosAG posted:... you don't need a special "airbrush compressor"). quote:Compressor's noisy, but I paint in the garage anyhow. That's why you need a "special airbrush compressor". They're drat quiet, and they'll have less condensation and pulsation in the line. The sound issue is honestly the most important factor for a lot of people. You can paint in the garage for sure, but spend a bit more money and you can get one quiet enough that you could paint next to a sleeping person without waking them.
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Jun 27, 2013 01:32
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I have a Revell starter set with an airbrush and a table-top compressor for about 120 euros. It's simple but it does the job quite well!
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Jun 27, 2013 23:34
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I won't be doing a lot of painting and it will mostly be stuff like every now and then painting a tiny tiny train. I won't be like, airbrushing lesbians making out on the side of a van or anything, just solid colours and a bit of masking. I mostly just want something cheap that will get the job done and be easy to clean. I hear cleaning is a huge pain. It sounds like buying a compressor just for the brush might be a bit of an overkill? But buying propellant over and over also seems expensive...
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Jun 28, 2013 00:00
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Baronjutter posted:It sounds like buying a compressor just for the brush might be a bit of an overkill? But buying propellant over and over also seems expensive... Propellant sucks and the only reason to get it is if you're doing a lot of work away from a power supply or somewhere you can't bring a good CO2 tank. If you're spraying for any amount of time the can will start to freeze up and you'll find yourself switching between 2-3 cans to keep the pressure from fluctuating too badly.
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Jun 28, 2013 02:03
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What's the difference between propellant and CO2?
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Jun 28, 2013 02:32
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Baronjutter posted:I won't be doing a lot of painting and it will mostly be stuff like every now and then painting a tiny tiny train. I won't be like, airbrushing lesbians making out on the side of a van or anything, just solid colours and a bit of masking. I mostly just want something cheap that will get the job done and be easy to clean. I hear cleaning is a huge pain. I'd go compressor, simply for convenience. I got mine at a boxing day sale for $30, which is only a little more than a can of propellant!
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Jun 28, 2013 04:15
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Baronjutter posted:What's the difference between propellant and CO2? Propellant is basically a can of spray paint without paint. You hook the brush up to it and it provides air, but the pressure is lovely and inconsistent. It sucks, and only exists so that they have a super cheap option to put into starter kits for kids. CO2 is a pressurized tank like you would rent to fill balloons or whatever. It lasts long time but needs to be refilled professionally. It's silent and doesn't get hot. Great solution if you can afford it and have the means to haul a tank to get filled every month or so. A compressor is cheapish, and can be very quiet, but will get hot and if you spray for more than half an hour or so it'll start to spit condensation into your line and gently caress up your paint flow. This is what most hobbyists wind up with. It's what I and most of the mini thread has.
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Jun 28, 2013 04:28
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You can pick up a pretty cheap compressor at any hardware store (or walmart), which will be loud while it is filling but silent once the tank is full. They usually come with pressure regulators on them already, so just pick up a moisture trap, and you're set. Another alternative is to get a medical compressor. They're usually pretty cheap, decently quiet, and use the same threads as hardware store compressors.
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Jun 28, 2013 04:48
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JoshTheStampede posted:A compressor is cheapish, and can be very quiet, but will get hot and if you spray for more than half an hour or so it'll start to spit condensation into your line and gently caress up your paint flow. This is what most hobbyists wind up with. It's what I and most of the mini thread has. Additional things you will need with that compressor: a moisture trap ($20) and possibly a brass bit or two to attach it to your compressor.(About $4, depending.) Teflon tape is handy as well (a thin non-sticky tape to wrap around screw threads to make them properly airtight.) About $2. One reason I dig my cheap compressor so much is once you have this setup, you are good to go permanently with the airbrush - you can do as much painting as you want.
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Jun 28, 2013 15:35
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Nebakenezzer posted:Additional things you will need with that compressor: a moisture trap ($20) and possibly a brass bit or two to attach it to your compressor.(About $4, depending.) Teflon tape is handy as well (a thin non-sticky tape to wrap around screw threads to make them properly airtight.) About $2. One reason I dig my cheap compressor so much is once you have this setup, you are good to go permanently with the airbrush - you can do as much painting as you want. Yeah, I got mine on Amazon for about 80 bucks and came with all that stuff, as well as a cheapo airbrush I use for priming and varnishing.
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Jun 28, 2013 15:40
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Link to a quote of HKR's awesome airbrush writeup found in the Wargame Mini painting thread http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&pagenumber=100#post374381003
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Jun 28, 2013 20:32
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Thanks for the link, still having trouble actually finding/picking a good set though. http://www.amazon.ca/Master-Airbrus...+and+compressor That look any good?
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Jun 28, 2013 21:10
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I've been using a master airbrush/compressor for the last year and a half. The compressor is a bit loud (I stuck mine on a foam pad to try and quiet it some) and the airbrush needs dedicated cleaning to keep it running well, but I have no complaints. While people will probably recommend Badger or Iwata for airbrushes, the master bundle I got was definitely a worthwhile beginner's airbrush and now whenever I want to upgrade I'll already have a compressor. I will however recommend a secondary water filter attached to the airbrush since I was having water come up the line that wasn't caught by the primary filter. Really depends on how humid your environment is.
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Jun 28, 2013 22:22
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Well after checking out the local hobby shop having basically the same system for $250 and the local art store quoting me "about $150 for an entry level brush. No, a compressor is $250, that's just for the airbrush" I went with this $100 guy + $40 shipping on amazon, which wasn't too bad after I signed up for a credit card I'll never use and saved another $15. I'm a bit scared though because even though it's amazon.ca it's a 3rd party seller and they're sending it UPS from the US so I fully expect UPS to try to run their scam on me and I'll have to gently caress around for a month filing customs declarations to even get my poo poo, or pay their extortionary "customs brokerage fee" And then when I get it I'll some how realize it's the wrong sort of thing for me  Uhg, I hate models.
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Jun 29, 2013 00:52
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You don't have to spend thaaat much on an airbrush; Michaels has the badger 155 for less than the $140, plus they have their perpetual 40% off coupons. Others worth considering: Badger 105 (seems like a new version of the 100): $126 MSRP. Regularly online for $100. Badger (the paint cup spins around to become a bottom feeder): $205 MSRP Iwata Revolution BCR / CR: $130 MSRP (BCR is the bottom feeding model, CR is the top feeding model) Iwata Eclipse BS / CS: $174 MSRP (BS has a smaller cup than the CS) Paasche model VL: $122 MSRP If you're buying an airbrush, you might as well skip single action brushes and go straight for a double action. Of course, each brand has their own accessories, hose fittings, cups, etc.
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Jun 29, 2013 06:18
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Well it's already done, at least it's double-action and the compressor seems ok. I actually already have a compressor in the garage but it's noisy as hell, and in the garage. Hopefully in a month I'll be posting AIRBRUSHED trains and buildings.
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Jun 29, 2013 06:36
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Scale Model Helper Version 1.5 is now available: - New color brands: Citadel / Games Workshop - New color standard: British Standard - a set of standards used in Britain for construction and engineering, including colors (en.wikipedia.org/.../British_Standards). I've included BS381C, BS5252, BS2600 and BS4800 - Search improvements: I've switched to an OR mode from the previous mode, which was a simple text search without separating the search terms, because I've seen people doing searches on multiple words, but because they weren't exactly the same as the color name, they didn't find what they were looking for. However, this caused a bigger problem, in that later searches would bring back a lot more results than what people actually wanted to search for. I did some changes to the grid and searches are now happening on the server side. This enables me to share the search code between the online version and the Android application, and being able to do better searches. Search will now be an AND mode between each term, so searching for "blue angel" will find all the colors that have both "blue" and "angel" in them, for example Testors 2023 "Blue Angels Yellow". Also, you can search on exact text by wrapping the search term in double quotes, and you can search only specific color brands by prefixing the color brand name and a colon to the search term, for example, fs:blue will search for anything containing the word blue in only the FS color brand, and fs:"blue" will search for exactly the word blue in the FS color brand. See the Advanced Help button in the applications for more details and examples. - Search will no longer search in the RGB values to prevent false positives when searching for color numbers. I've also reset the poll for the color brands in the next version, so vote for your favorite color brand. Reaper so far is in the lead. Let me know if there are other color brands that you want to see.
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Jul 3, 2013 06:08
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Those are some update notes for sure, but what exactly is scale model helper? Is there a link?
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Jul 3, 2013 07:43
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It's an Android app to compare paints from various ranges: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.OrbSoftware.HobbyHelper
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Jul 3, 2013 10:41
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Will there eventually be an iOS version ?
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Jul 3, 2013 13:18
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wow that's pretty cool, any PC version?
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Jul 3, 2013 17:35
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Sorry, should have included the links, forgot that it's been a long time since the last update... There's an online version and an android version, as well as a blog where I'm posting ongoing updates. I'm planning to create an ios version as well, but no idea when yet.
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Jul 3, 2013 18:15
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So say I have a model and I want to do my best to match the paint. I know this is impossible, but I want to get as close as I can. What's the best way to do it? I want to try to match this green. I mean I can't just take the rgb from the photo and search for paint because that so depends on the lighting and poo poo the photo was taken at right? 
Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Jul 3, 2013 |
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Jul 3, 2013 18:23
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Baronjutter posted:So say I have a model and I want to do my best to match the paint. I know this is impossible, but I want to get as close as I can. What's the best way to do it? Yes, matching actual physical colors is a bit of a problem. You might try to start by taking the rgb of the paint, find the nearest rgb paint to it, and try to mix paints from that starting point.
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Jul 3, 2013 19:13
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Baronjutter posted:So say I have a model and I want to do my best to match the paint. I know this is impossible, but I want to get as close as I can. What's the best way to do it? This might help?
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Jul 3, 2013 21:19
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I'm totally new to the world of painting vehicles and don't know any of the brands. What is "NP dark and light green" ? I guess this really depends on the brands available. My local hobby shop although huge is like 50% about RC, 40% car/tank/plane models, 8% "other" and like 2% model train. When I asked an old hobby dude what colour was closest to BC rail green he just shrugged and said "It's impossible to perfectly match any colour you know, your guess is as good as mine!" and waddled off. I'm sure if I asked him what paint colour was best for 1942 german summer camo he'd be all helpful. PS I'm kinda colour blind so the whole picking out colours without some help is pretty hard PPS I know paint stuff might be slightly more suited to the miniature painting thread but that place is 99% warhams and I just like you guys better. PPPS: POST A PICTURE  My first 100% from scratch paint/decal job. Still need some smaller decals I can't seem to print my self, but the reporting mark on the ends of the car are 100% readable! This is the project that inspired me to get a fuckin' airbrush. I'm still seeing decal lines and it's still making me really upset. Even after like 4 coats of dullcote I can still see the sheen of the decal too. Not sure where I went wrong. Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Jul 3, 2013 |
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Jul 3, 2013 23:34
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Nah man, you're in the right place.
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Jul 4, 2013 00:02
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Baronjutter posted:I know paint stuff might be slightly more suited to the miniature painting thread but that place is 99% warhams and I just like you guys better. 
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Jul 4, 2013 00:15
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So I just got back from the ol' hobby store. One of the staff, who I'm 100% sure is undiagnosed aspergers showed me some "model master" paint. He asked me if I wanted water wash up or thinner, I went with water because :chemicals: . I read here you can just use alcohol as a thinner but the dude practically forced me to buy some testors brand thinner saying you NEED the specific branded thinner for that exact brand of paint or you're "playing with fire". It was only $8 and he said it would last a long time but I feel like maybe I was taken for a ride since I know gently caress all about paints and airbrush business. The good news is that the train-sperg actually directed me to the closest match for BC rail green and angrily asked me if my cars were going international or not and seemed really frustrated that I didn't know everything about every paint scheme BC rail has had over the last 50 years. Is model master acrylic ok? Did I actually need the specific model-master acrylic thinner?
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Jul 4, 2013 01:32
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Baronjutter posted:So I just got back from the ol' hobby store. One of the staff, who I'm 100% sure is undiagnosed aspergers showed me some "model master" paint. He asked me if I wanted water wash up or thinner, I went with water because :chemicals: . I read here you can just use alcohol as a thinner but the dude practically forced me to buy some testors brand thinner saying you NEED the specific branded thinner for that exact brand of paint or you're "playing with fire". It was only $8 and he said it would last a long time but I feel like maybe I was taken for a ride since I know gently caress all about paints and airbrush business. The good news is that the train-sperg actually directed me to the closest match for BC rail green and angrily asked me if my cars were going international or not and seemed really frustrated that I didn't know everything about every paint scheme BC rail has had over the last 50 years. Nah, I usually use water with acrylics with fine results. If I'm not using water, I'm using denatured alcohol, which can be had cheaply. Guy was definitely taking you for a ride. Not even sure what he's implying will happen if you mix and match paint and thinner. I've had mixed results with Model Masters acrylics. My LHS stocks Tamiya and I love those. If you have a Hobby Lobby near you, they stock Vallejo paints which are supposed to be the best.
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Jul 4, 2013 01:45
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I can't remember what the exact brands were but a colleague of mine actually had problems when he thinned down an acrylic for his airbrush. Think he said he had problems with certain Tamiya paints when he didn't use the Tamiya thinner, I think it was? He mostly uses Vallejo anyhow, and just uses water for it, but I'm pretty sure it was Tamiya he said he had a problem with a couple times.
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Jul 4, 2013 01:54
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mehall posted:I can't remember what the exact brands were but a colleague of mine actually had problems when he thinned down an acrylic for his airbrush. Think he said he had problems with certain Tamiya paints when he didn't use the Tamiya thinner, I think it was? I'm willing to bet it was their metallic paints, like gold leaf. Those paints have rather large metallic flakes that require a larger-than-usual nozzle.
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Jul 4, 2013 01:58
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Baronjutter posted:So I just got back from the ol' hobby store. One of the staff, who I'm 100% sure is undiagnosed aspergers showed me some "model master" paint. He asked me if I wanted water wash up or thinner, I went with water because :chemicals: . I read here you can just use alcohol as a thinner but the dude practically forced me to buy some testors brand thinner saying you NEED the specific branded thinner for that exact brand of paint or you're "playing with fire". It was only $8 and he said it would last a long time but I feel like maybe I was taken for a ride since I know gently caress all about paints and airbrush business. The good news is that the train-sperg actually directed me to the closest match for BC rail green and angrily asked me if my cars were going international or not and seemed really frustrated that I didn't know everything about every paint scheme BC rail has had over the last 50 years.
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Jul 4, 2013 02:05
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I've had some really poor results when thinning Tamiya acrylics and using straight isopropyl alcohol vs Tamiya's thinner (which has a retardant). I've also found Tamiya's lacquer thinner works the best, even with acrylics, over their acrylic thinner. It really depends on the color though. Flats seem to work alright with alcohol but the gloss and the metallics don't like it.
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Jul 4, 2013 02:07
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I use paints straight out of the bottle in my airbrush.  (Vallejo Model Air) When I thin, I use on-brand thinner, I've had much better results that way.
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Jul 4, 2013 02:40
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Faltion posted:I've also found Tamiya's lacquer thinner works the best, even with acrylics, over their acrylic thinner. That's because Tamiyas paints are secretly lacquer based.
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Jul 4, 2013 03:29
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I recognize all these brands mentioned, they had a huuuuge wall of paints, Tamiya, Vallejo, Model Master, something.. maybe hornby? Something H. I just want to make sure it's water wash-up and won't kill me too quickly. Dude was really adamant about using the specific brand's thinner and to never use water or iso.
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Jul 4, 2013 03:35
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Baronjutter posted:I recognize all these brands mentioned, they had a huuuuge wall of paints, Tamiya, Vallejo, Model Master, something.. maybe hornby? Something H. I just want to make sure it's water wash-up and won't kill me too quickly. Humbrol.
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Jul 4, 2013 03:49
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If it's Humbrol then make sure if it's acrylic or enamel before using it. You can tell by the smell, but just to be on the safe side I'd read the pot too. Man that poo poo tasted bad to 12 year old me.
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Jul 4, 2013 03:58
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