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I like self sealing tape under shrink tube for light waterproofing. I've decided that for splicing multi-core wire, soldering should be avoided since metal fatigue tends to set in where the solder starts, if anyone can recommend techniques for splicing wire I'd appreciate it since it seems to be something that's not talked too much about. The lineman's splice has worked well for me with thick/solid core cabling, but it doesn't seem to work very well when the wire is flexible. Also, sometimes for personal projects I'll just put tape between the individual pairs instead of individual shrink tube, any thoughts?
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Sep 10, 2013 06:08
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You can get 22AWG butt splices, but that's still pretty crummy.
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Sep 10, 2013 06:15
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So I need some advice regarding a new soldering iron and multimeter. I'd like to try building up a headphone amp, and I have an electric R/C car and an R/C heli that I'd really like a meter for troubleshooting. In the past I've used a radio shack 40w(?) soldering iron and it was beyond terrible. I understand r/c motor leads are going to need some serious heat to tin and solder, but all I was doing was melting insulation. Had to borrow a friend's iron to solder the leads to the ESC. I hear good things about Weller, but I don't really know what to get wattage wise. I'd like something I can do 8 or 10 gauge cables with for my r/c hobbies, as well as something that won't destroy a PCB if I'm building up a headphone amp/opamp. As far as a multimeter, I'm pretty much dead-set on getting a Fluke. We have 87's and 88's at work and they're neigh indestructible. That being said, I'd really rather not shell out $350 for a multimeter that will see much more limited use. Would a Fluke 115 or 117 be a decent meter to pick up that won't limit me capability wise?
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Sep 10, 2013 08:22
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The rebadged solder iron Sparkfun sells is a good general purpose iron, not sure how it will do with 8 or 10 gauge wire though. They also sell a Hakko that seems to get a lot of praise.
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Sep 10, 2013 09:56
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I have one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ I have soldered everything from fine-pitch SND to 8-10 gauge RC cabling with it in the 5-6 years I've had it and it's been a tank.
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Sep 10, 2013 10:10
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longview posted:I like self sealing tape under shrink tube for light waterproofing. Not sure how well it holds up but I just put couple of overlapping layers of heat shrink where the insulation begins, and then use the larger piece that is covering everything to clamp it all down.  In the red circle is where any rotation happens and seems to hold the wires good enough on the light soldering I had to do to prevent the plastic spacers on the 1/4" phone plug from melting.
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Sep 10, 2013 10:16
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For the meter, I have a decent Craftsman, but really, I've started using these tiny cheap Chinese ones and they work just fine...I have one for the workbench and car. It's small, auto-ranging, with probe wires short enough to wrap up compactly. Does voltage, resistance (with continuity beep), and diodes, plus in both DC and AC voltage mode it can tell you frequency and duty cycle. The only thing it doesn't do is current, which I have my real meter for, but I haven't needed it much day-to-day. Honestly, on my desk I have the cheap meter and my nice one side by side, and I'm almost always grabbing the cheap one. EDIT: Oh, and if you just need to monitor power supply voltage, I love these $2 two-wire DC voltmeters. It's powered from the voltage its testing. I just solder breadboard pins to the wires (and heatshrink them) and I can jam them in any project I'm working on, and they're cheap enough to leave in. Just insulate the backside of the circuit board with your method of choice (nail polish, hot glue, etc.) and they're ruggedized and can flop around your workbench without worry.  EDIT 2: I may as well just break down and say: FastTech (the site I linked for both of those) is awesome, their modules are cheap as dirt, and everything's free shipping. It's like Deal Extreme but with more electronics stuff, usually at a better price (at a cost of having less documentation, but it's almost all industry standard chips you can look up elsewhere). Stabby McDamage fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Sep 10, 2013 |
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Sep 10, 2013 17:21
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My first meter was some rebranded Chinese one that worked pretty ok and had all of the functions of my current fluke at work, but I wasn't really content with it. I ended up getting a used BK Precision DMM which is a lot sturdier, and I have a lot more trust in its accuracy. Probably cost ~$100 I also got a crappy soldering station to start with, and I replaced it last year with this one and it was a great decision. It's very high quality, and it's easy to get replacement tips in different sizes and shapes if you need them. There is also a digital version for a few dollars more.
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Sep 10, 2013 18:39
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Bridgeport posted:As far as a multimeter, I'm pretty much dead-set on getting a Fluke. We have 87's and 88's at work and they're neigh indestructible. That being said, I'd really rather not shell out $350 for a multimeter that will see much more limited use. Would a Fluke 115 or 117 be a decent meter to pick up that won't limit me capability wise? The 115 and 117 are electrician's multimeters, they aren't designed for electronics work. For example, they don't have milliamp, much less microamp range. It's accuracy isn't all that great either. There's a few other things that limit it too, like capacitance is only down to 1nf, and the frequency measurement is only to 50kh. But frankly, the lack of milliamps is a real killer. For the same price as a new 117, you can get a used 87v. If you want a new meter that has features inline with what you'll be using, the 17b is at least cheap. The actual specs aren't actually as good, (like it's a 4000 count meter vs 6000 count 117, averaging rms vs true rms) but it has what you'd actually want.
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Sep 10, 2013 19:07
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For something between the 11X and the 87, look at the Fluke 177 or 179. The accuracy specs aren't quite as good, but it's a good bit cheaper than the 87, has all the functions, is built like tank, and is as safe as they come. Don't use those cheap Chinese crapmeters unless you're never measuring more than 5V, most of them don't have adequate safety measures and will blow up if you try to measure high voltage with it (there's even anecdotes about some of them actually blowing up at 120v, although you have to get really cheapass ones for that). A name-brand meter like Fluke or Agilent will keep you safe up to like a dozen kV surge. See also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-FZP1U2dkM Also, I can definitely endorse the Hakko soldering irons, they're on the expensive side but they work great.
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Sep 10, 2013 20:19
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I've got the Fluke 87V and it's been working perfectly for over 5 years. Definitely would recommend one if you have the money.
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Sep 10, 2013 22:01
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I've been looking around at high end multimeters, and does anyone know of a handheld one that has excellent accuracy, like 100ppm or better? Also a kelvin sense ohm meter would be nice.
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Sep 10, 2013 23:08
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ANIME AKBAR posted:I've been looking around at high end multimeters, and does anyone know of a handheld one that has excellent accuracy, like 100ppm or better? Also a kelvin sense ohm meter would be nice. It doesn't do kelvin sense resistance, but the Fluke 289 has voltage/current specs better than 100ppm. If you want AC specs that good, you'll be hard pressed to find it in a handheld I think, and it's resistance specs is 0.15%, which isn't quite as good as you want but it's the best I can find in a handheld DMM. You might be able to get better in an LCR meter, but that's kind of a different category.
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Sep 11, 2013 00:31
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I've got one of these soldering, which I like a good bit, and they get decent reviews. http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Dig...ds=aoyue+937%2B
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Sep 11, 2013 01:04
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Bridgeport posted:So I need some advice regarding a new soldering iron and multimeter. I'd like to try building up a headphone amp, and I have an electric R/C car and an R/C heli that I'd really like a meter for troubleshooting. Soldering station: Weller WES51 or Hakko 936 (currently discontinued, so get one on eBay, or if you need something new it's been replaced with the goofier-looking but arguably even-more-functional FX-888). Both are heavy-duty temperature-controlled stations that will be able to handle 8ga wires just fine if you use one of the larger tips. I personally like analog controls but the WES51 also comes in a digital variant. There are Chinese knockoffs of each that you can get for pretty cheap, but having tried a few I'm not totally sold on the build quality. The Wellers and Hakkos will last the rest of your life. Multimeter: I don't own any Flukes so I can't speak to those, but my everyday meter is an Extech EX330 and it works just fine for everything I've done so far. It goes down to microamps, it's fast, has automatic or manual ranging, and it has an audible continuity tester which is great because when you're building stuff that's the function you'll be using like 80% of the time.
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Sep 11, 2013 01:13
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ANIME AKBAR posted:I've been looking around at high end multimeters, and does anyone know of a handheld one that has excellent accuracy, like 100ppm or better? Also a kelvin sense ohm meter would be nice. We have some Fluke 289 meters at work, and like the above poster said they're pretty accurate. They don't do Kelvin connections, but they do have a LoOhm setting that lets you tare out the probe/contact resistance to do a bit better on things <50 Ohm. My only gripe about that meter is that it takes 6-7 seconds to start up from the time you push the power button. Not a huge deal really, but it gets annoying when you just want to do a quick spot measurement and are used to other meters just powering up instantly.
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Sep 11, 2013 03:02
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Speaking of meters I've decided to stick with really cheap or really nice meters. I bought some random $35 meter from Amazon and it broke which was annoying - if it was cheap I wouldn't have cared and if it was a brand name it probably wouldn't have broken. My favorite cheapie is this one because it's auto ranging and includes integral case/storage for the leads. So it's good for throwing in the tool bag: http://dx.com/p/auto-range-digital-multimeter-9636
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Sep 11, 2013 03:36
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I was recently given one of these: http://www.parallax.com/product/32100 , a Propeller 8-core microcontroller development board. I need suggestions for what kinds of things one does with multiple cores. I'm familiar with dual- and quad-core general purpose CPUs and I've programmed for those, but when it comes to embedded projects I can't think of uses for so many cores (like the Parallella board), especially since I don't do any audio/visual stuff. I asked the people who made Parallella, and they basically said that we need to wait and see what hobbyists and researchers come up with since this is such a new field, where currently only a few people in the military and academia who work with supercomputers know what to do with massive parallelization.
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Sep 11, 2013 03:51
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Aurium posted:The 115 and 117 are electrician's multimeters, they aren't designed for electronics work. For example, they don't have milliamp, much less microamp range. It's accuracy isn't all that great either. There's a few other things that limit it too, like capacitance is only down to 1nf, and the frequency measurement is only to 50kh. Any qualms about picking up a Fluke 87-III instead of the -V? Should I be worried about having to spend extra cash calibrating a used meter?
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Sep 11, 2013 11:20
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Agilent U1272A is still a pretty good meter, especially since I think it's a fair bit cheaper than Fluke equivalent models.
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Sep 11, 2013 15:01
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Bridgeport posted:Any qualms about picking up a Fluke 87-III instead of the -V? Should I be worried about having to spend extra cash calibrating a used meter? Short version, basically no qualms with an 87-III. Regarding calibration, I've never found that any of my old test equipment needed it. If you can bring it into work, and compare a few measurements it'll build confidence. The meters you have at work won't match precisely either. Long version, I pulled this off the eevblog forms via a google search, commentary follows. Kiriakos-GR posted:
1. Motor speed. Don't worry about it. Low pass filters are easy to make anyway for the rare case when you need this functionality. It's more of an industrial setting geared feature. 2. This is probably the one I'd miss the most, and even then, I've basically never needed it. For my electronics work, it's either hot enough to burn me, or cold enough that I don't care. Knowing that a chip is exactly 91 degrees (33c) doesn't really help over, this chip is a bit warm. 3. Matters less than you think, the bigger caps are basically universally electrolytic which are marked. 5uF is still a decent range. Still, it is nice to be able to see if a cap is bad quickly. 4. 4000 counts is fine, and if you need better, they both have the same ceiling. 5. quote:CAT IV-rated test instruments are designed for testing on the primary supply source, which also includes 120V or 240V overhead or underground lines that power detached buildings or underground lines that power well pumps. The CAT IV rating covers the highest and most dangerous level of transient overvoltage electricians encounter when working on utility service equipment like exterior transformers. I wouldn't worry about the lack of CAT IV, unless you're working on the transformer that services your house. 6. I've never used smoothing mode. So clearly I wouldn't miss it. 7. Holsters!
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Sep 11, 2013 16:09
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reading posted:I was recently given one of these: http://www.parallax.com/product/32100 , a Propeller 8-core microcontroller development board. I need suggestions for what kinds of things one does with multiple cores. I'm familiar with dual- and quad-core general purpose CPUs and I've programmed for those, but when it comes to embedded projects I can't think of uses for so many cores (like the Parallella board), especially since I don't do any audio/visual stuff. This thread focuses more on electrical fundamentals, I think. You should check out the micro-controller thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3500975
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Sep 12, 2013 14:05
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reading posted:I was recently given one of these: http://www.parallax.com/product/32100 , a Propeller 8-core microcontroller development board. I need suggestions for what kinds of things one does with multiple cores. I'm familiar with dual- and quad-core general purpose CPUs and I've programmed for those, but when it comes to embedded projects I can't think of uses for so many cores (like the Parallella board), especially since I don't do any audio/visual stuff. A lot of the time, it's a matter of having a problem you can effectively split up. For instance, if you're making one of those crummy games-in-a-joystick with a single processor you have to schedule the game logic, video signal generation, input handling, etc, all on one processing unit. Some things, like the video signal are time sensitive, while other things like the game logic and screen generation can be computationally intensive. Instead of working out scheduling, you just give one unit the task of generating video, and another unit the task of reading user inputs, a third the task of actually calculating the game logic. It turns the problem from one of scheduling to one of data passing. When I was doing micromouse, a team had a set of really nice faulhaber motors with a built in encoder. When they were humming along at top speed, the number of edges coming out of the encoders would have easily overwhelmed their PIC if they were using GPIO interrupts. Luckily, the PIC they were using has hardware dedicated to reading in a motor encoder and they were able to offload the overhead of processing the encoders to it. I often think of the propeller cores in the same way - generic processing units to unload work onto. That's the sort of thing I see in embedded stuff most of the time, at any rate. The 'proper parallel programming' I've had academically discussed big computational problems (physical simulations at the like); mostly how to split a single huge calculation up and run it in parallel. How to deal with data dependencies, message and data passing, all sorts of things but usually the end goal was just trying to speed up a single specific task. For robotics and other embedded areas, parallel processing seems more like a technique for making juggling many small tasks easy but I'm sure the embedded world has plenty of areas where a lot of computational power in a small area is necessary. Maybe handheld radar or something 
Delta-Wye fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 16:20
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reading posted:I asked the people who made Parallella, and they basically said that we need to wait and see what hobbyists and researchers come up with since this is such a new field, where currently only a few people in the military and academia who work with supercomputers know what to do with massive parallelization. This is why I wasn't a fan of their kickstarter..."HEY FUND THIS, THIS WILL BE loving COOL" "We're gonna wait for the community to use our chips in innovative and neat ways that does a bunch of our work for us and not compensate them in the least". That said it's pretty useful for the reasons Delta-Wye said, though there are many MCUs that have dedicated HW peripherals for exactly those reasons (dedicated video I/F logic, encoder inputs, serial comms, etc).
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Sep 12, 2013 17:12
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The propeller's architecture is just really weird, though--each processor has a small amount of memory, then they have round robin access to the shared memory. And you have SPIN, which was weird, and if I'm not mistaken, you needed to at least boot from SPIN code, even if you had a c-compiler, so you always have the interpreter taking a bunch of memory from one or more processors. Then they have randoms specialized hardware, a bunch of stuff in ROM, and other jankyness. FAKE EDIT: Ok, I had to look it up---wikipedia says the C-compiler is 5-10 times faster than spin. Jesus, that is sorta embarassing. That said, it's still absolutely fascinating as a novel architecture mostly designed by like 1 dude, who also wrote a lot of the software.
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Sep 12, 2013 17:17
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This is going to be a reeeeeeeal long shot, but does anyone have any firsthand experience with this bad boy: SLO-SYN 430-T (click on img for manual) I'm having a lot of trouble figuring out why my motor isn't doing a thing (like, stepping as expected) while I feel I followed the implementation to the letter. I'd say maybe it's busted, but I've tried three separate drivers and like a dozen different motors.
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Sep 12, 2013 17:20
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The Parallella itself looks mostly interesting for its FLOPS/W really. It looks like they're pushing for embedded fpga or fpga-like fabric, so custom hardware acceleration is a possibility as well. To be honest I'm not sure what the Epiphany brings to the table but the Zynq's themselves are pretty badass.
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Sep 12, 2013 18:52
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I'm surprised I didn't hear about that Parallella thing until now, but I do kind of just mentally filter out kickstarter stuff. Not a bad price for the board with a 7020 zynq ($119), aside from the whole multicore gegaw. Might get one to mess around with at home! Before I had been thinking of getting one of the Avnet credit card sized zynq ones.
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Sep 12, 2013 19:44
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I just picked this up at university surplus... From my research, it's a "strain gage conditioner", which apparently a kind of signal conditioner that amplifies low voltage signals such as those used in strain gauge measurements, which use minute changes in resistance to detect deformations of a material. Found the manual and product overview -- it's from 1992, and a larger rackmount version apparently sold on ebay for $590. I guess my question is: anything cool I could do with this besides strip it for parts or try to sell it? The best I could imagine is getting millivolt or microvolt measurements over to an Arduino, but I don't see what that gets me (unless I literally want to measure material deformation).
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Sep 13, 2013 20:50
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What is the most efficient way to run a large ultracapacitor in a battery-like application (to get near constant voltage output for as long as possible, rather than a characteristic capacitor discharge curve). Is a buck boost converter the best thing for this? e: Actually this would be for driving a resistive load heating element that would not really care if it was pulsed or reverse polarity or anything, just that the average absolute voltage or power through it would be relatively constant as the capacitor is discharged. So I don't know if that simplifies the circuit requirements. I'm looking at maxwell ultracapacitors @ 2.7V, driving something that would expect around 3.7V. If there is a drop across a diode at these low voltages it would be very inefficient, is there some way to mitigate or avoid that? peepsalot fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Sep 13, 2013 |
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Sep 13, 2013 22:09
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peepsalot posted:What is the most efficient way to run a large ultracapacitor in a battery-like application (to get near constant voltage output for as long as possible, rather than a characteristic capacitor discharge curve). Is a buck boost converter the best thing for this? Yeah, a boost regulator would be your easiest bet I think. If you need to switch between that and an external power supply look at something like the the LTC4412, which is a power supply OR with a ~20mV drop. Edit: Maybe not exactly that chip considering it only lets the "battery" go down to 2.5V but something like that.
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Sep 13, 2013 23:07
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Stabby McDamage posted:I guess my question is: anything cool I could do with this besides strip it for parts or try to sell it? The best I could imagine is getting millivolt or microvolt measurements over to an Arduino, but I don't see what that gets me (unless I literally want to measure material deformation). Don't strip it for parts. Test equipment is generally worth much more whole. There's a bajillion uses for what amounts to a really good benchtop instrumentation amplifier. Get some sensors and go hog wild.
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Sep 13, 2013 23:23
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peepsalot posted:What is the most efficient way to run a large ultracapacitor in a battery-like application (to get near constant voltage output for as long as possible, rather than a characteristic capacitor discharge curve). Is a buck boost converter the best thing for this? If you're just heating something then definitely avoid the boost or buckboost. Size the heating element so it provides the power you need at only about 10-20% max voltage and at higher voltages control the duty cycle. Stack a couple of the caps in series for additional voltage if needed and start at a lower duty cycle. Did you plan how to charge them?
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Sep 14, 2013 03:13
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Anyone have a guess as to whether being damaged by battery corrosion would increase or decrease the resistance of a resistor? I'm trying to fix an R/C toy controller for a friend's kid which had alkaline batteries leak all over the PCB. Every other resistor I've tested shows the resistance that's marked on the package, but this one doesn't. Well, it doesn't have good markings either - I can make out [10?], and my multimeter tells me it's 1.38K ohm. Before I brushed the battery crystals (potassium carbonate?) off of it, it was 3.81K ohm. Neither of which matches with the first part, and of course I can't tell what order of magnitude I need to be using. Here are some pictures of the resistor:   If you want better/different pictures let me know, I've got a new microscope I'm trying out / using to inspect the board. I'm guessing that chip marked "BDC 3G" is a transistor. It looks like the two legs that the resistor isn't on go to +6V and a DIP-16 chip, and the leg that the resistor is on goes to a leg of another 3-pin package marked "BJD 2A" which seems to connect to a charging plug and GND. To be honest, I probably need to diagram the whole circuit board out to see if that makes sense at all. Also, anyone have any general advice on repairing a PCB with battery corrosion damage? I've brushed it with a toothbrush and a little bit of white vinegar, which got the corrosion off pretty well. Will that wind up completely ruining the board / do more damage from the vinegar? There's only one spot where a trace is gone / corroded off (something like 8M ohm resistance across that bit), which I'll have to try to tack a bit of wire over. Some of the components also look pretty rough, but everything I can check with my multimeter shows the values they should have. Should I replace the parts that look nasty? Should I try to tin over the slightly corroded and discolored traces which the silk screen came off but still conduct fine? Should I clean it in a particular way (acetone, rubbing alcohol, distilled water, dishwasher, electric tumble drier, etc)? Is it a bad or good idea to paint some clear nail polish over it when I'm done? edit: bonus shot of the most damaged looking resistor (measures 46.1K ohm, before cleaning corrosion off marking was 473) and the broken trace: 
nightchild12 fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Sep 14, 2013 |
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Sep 14, 2013 04:20
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If you try to measure resistors which are wired in to a circuit, the whole rest of the circuit is going to be in parallel with it, so I don't think this is a reliable method. (I didn't like that answer either when a lab mate told me, since it amounts to "You're out of luck," but maybe folks in the thread can provide alternatives.)
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Sep 21, 2013 01:41
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reading posted:If you try to measure resistors which are wired in to a circuit, the whole rest of the circuit is going to be in parallel with it, so I don't think this is a reliable method. (I didn't like that answer either when a lab mate told me, since it amounts to "You're out of luck," but maybe folks in the thread can provide alternatives.) I would think that depends on the circuit. If I have a bunch of resistors in series with a battery and an LED in a simple circuit and I measure across one of the resistors, it should measure correctly (with the battery out of the circuit). If I have a bunch of resistors in parallel it should not measure a single resistor correctly, but it should measure the resistance of the whole thing correctly. In this case I don't think any of the resistors are in parallel on this circuit, or they are all incorrect in just the right way to each give me measurements that are within a few percent of the value on the package. The damaged resistor in particular is not connected to any other resistors that I can see on the one side. I guess it depends on what the component marked "BDC 3G" is, and the internal layout the DIP-16 component (which I'm guessing is a microcontroller of some sort, since it's an R/C toy remote control and there's only the one chip on the thing I can see). I'm probably out of luck anyway since I haven't been able to find any documentation at all on this circuit or the two 3-legged components (maybe transistors? I suppose I can test that somehow with my multimeter - continuity across each leg to see if it conducts between pairs, then... something with applying voltage/current to one of the legs and seeing if the other two conduct?). I'll probably wind up just putting in a 10K ohm resistor and seeing if it works.
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Sep 21, 2013 02:05
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Could that resistor just be a ~1k resistor in series with the transistor base/gate? The value may not be critical in that case. Applying a conformal coating (clear polish etc.) without fully removing the acid seems like a bad idea since it would still be there causing future problems and the coating will make it even harder to fix then.
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Sep 21, 2013 06:56
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Hi guys, really stupid question: What do you call these?  Specifically, the components that I'd need to buy to make these myself? Some sort of crimp connector and connector housing, but I have no idea what to look for on newark.ca. I'm also looking for the male equivalent. Basically I want to make a bunch of breadboard interconnect cables and things I can use harder connectors with, but I don't want to buy them off eBay premade. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Sep 21, 2013 |
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Sep 21, 2013 18:17
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Martytoof posted:Hi guys, really stupid question: Why not, they're like $5 for 100 of the drat things. I guess it would be fun to make them though (I did it once before back in nerd robot club in highschool and getting the little clip to stay on is a pain in the rear end). The internet seems to think they are called Jumper Wires, and that's what I call them too.
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Sep 21, 2013 18:23
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Because I'm not interested in the cables themselves, I just want to connect existing stuff to breadboards. Like I want to wire a motor into a thing and instead of soldering the motor wires to a 1x4 male header I'd like to just crimp male connectors to each wire and go to town.
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Sep 21, 2013 18:26
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