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kid sinister posted:No dice. I still can't get it to turn the corner, clockwise or counterclockwise. Not much more I can advice you other then calling a rooter company. Are you sure you are hitting a 90 and not the clog?
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Sep 9, 2013 05:33
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Not much more I can advice you other then calling a rooter company. Are you sure you are hitting a 90 and not the clog? Very sure it's not the clog. I can put all 25' of my thin snake down the cleanout without any resistance and still not reach the clog, but I can only put about 15' of my fat snake down the same cleanout.
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Sep 9, 2013 18:53
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Bought a 1940's era house last month and working on setting up "modern conveniences" like a washing machine. The previous owner must have ran a pipe out the window because there are no drains anywhere... The supply lines are a piece of cake, drain lines are something I've not tackled in the past so want to make sure I got it right.  The PVC running next to the beam down into the cast is existing 2" that was done recently. It runs from the kitchen sink and is vented under sink with a AIV. I cut into that line and installed the wye and everything connected to the right. The first vertical pipe off the wye with the 2" female thread adapter on top will be for an AIV. It's on order and will be installed today. I am pretty sure I installed the sanitary T for the vent backwards - is that a big deal? The sink works fine, no leaks anywhere... I think I did everything right and to code. Goons?
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Sep 10, 2013 17:36
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Dirty Beluga posted:Bought a 1940's era house last month and working on setting up "modern conveniences" like a washing machine. The previous owner must have ran a pipe out the window because there are no drains anywhere... No floor drain for the washer? How about a sump?
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Sep 10, 2013 18:07
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kid sinister posted:No floor drain for the washer? How about a sump? House has neither, only drain is that red cast iron pipe running to the cesspool outside. Would love to have a floor drain at some point but it'd be a lot of work.
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Sep 10, 2013 18:19
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Dirty Beluga posted:House has neither, only drain is that red cast iron pipe running to the cesspool outside. Would love to have a floor drain at some point but it'd be a lot of work. Do you have central AC or a humidifier? Where does that drain to? Condensate pump?
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Sep 10, 2013 18:23
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kid sinister posted:Do you have central AC or a humidifier? Where does that drain to? Condensate pump? Nope! all hydronic heating so no need for the humidifier, I don't think they had central air when the place was built.
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Sep 10, 2013 18:30
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Dirty Beluga posted:The PVC running next to the beam down into the cast is existing 2" that was done recently. It runs from the kitchen sink and is vented under sink with a AIV. I cut into that line and installed the wye and everything connected to the right. Be careful with using an AIV. It's always a good source for sewer odor smells. They will eventually leak. So watch out for that.
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Sep 11, 2013 00:16
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So you put in a drain for a washing machine up near the ceiling joists?
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Sep 11, 2013 00:38
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Why would you run a washing machine into a condensate pump. It's a suds producing fixture. The amount of foam that would come out of a standard one would be insane. If you did a large sump pump (trash can size ) then it would work. It's not code per say but you did it as close as you could with what you had. If you put the drain up to high the head pressure of the drain itself will cause the washing machine to mess up its pump. edit: Oh and the T on its back is illegal for the vent pipe, and its backwards. It will work but it should have been a wye per UPC. But you are most likely under a different code.
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Sep 11, 2013 03:23
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Lenins Potato posted:Be careful with using an AIV. It's always a good source for sewer odor smells. They will eventually leak. So watch out for that. kid sinister posted:So you put in a drain for a washing machine up near the ceiling joists? Rd Rash 1000cc posted:edit: Oh and the T on its back is illegal for the vent pipe, and its backwards. It will work but it should have been a wye per UPC. But you are most likely under a different code.  I'm having a hard time visualizing how this could be done with a wye instead of the T - could you elaborate?
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Sep 11, 2013 04:10
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I posted about this a while back, but it seems to have gotten lost. I've got an upstairs shower with a Tuscany fixture/cartridge in it that isn't producing any hot water. Cold is fine and the hot water works in every other fixture in the house. All the shut-offs I have access to are open. There's no access panel or anything behind it either. When I take the faceplate off, there are two flat-head screws(bolts?) on either side of the pipe the cartridge is in. They are sticking out a bit with the heads oriented horizontally. I just had a plumber do about $6k of work replacing a hot water heater and a boiler and I'd rather not have to call him again. I've already replaced the cartridge with no change in the water.
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Sep 11, 2013 07:56
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Gray Stormy posted:I posted about this a while back, but it seems to have gotten lost. Either there's a shutoff somewhere for that hot water, or you have a blockage. I realize it's at a bad angle, but turn the water off and pull out that cartridge again. Can you see anything in the back plugging up the hot water opening?
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Sep 11, 2013 20:58
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Is there a method for identifying pipes (cast iron) under the foundation without breaking up the floor and putting eyes on them?
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Sep 11, 2013 21:31
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Is there a method for identifying pipes (cast iron) under the foundation without breaking up the floor and putting eyes on them? What do you mean by identify?
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Sep 11, 2013 22:02
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Is there a method for identifying pipes (cast iron) under the foundation without breaking up the floor and putting eyes on them? You can contact a utility locator. If the lines are all metal, it's usually easy to trace out. The price might be a little higher than you want. I'd expect $200+ since a lot of those guys have minimums. Are you wanting to trace out domestic water, hot, cold? Sewer? Also, why do you nee them traced out? Lenins Potato fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Sep 11, 2013 |
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Sep 11, 2013 23:20
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Is there a method for identifying pipes (cast iron) under the foundation without breaking up the floor and putting eyes on them? Magnets?
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Sep 11, 2013 23:32
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I want to locate sewage lines so i can better decide where to add a bathroom in the basement.
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Sep 11, 2013 23:37
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They'll probably have to run a camera with a sonde down a pulled toilet. They'll be able to locate the sonde and the camera will let you know how it's put together. It's a little bit more involved than a simple locate, but most utility locators will be able to do it. Also, difficulty increases depending on how many turns you have to make. What kind of reel they have. Length of the line. edit: Oh, also depth will be a factor if you have cast iron. The sondes have trouble with cast iron. So if it's deeper than say, 7 or 10 feet. But I'd hope your sewer wasn't that deep below the basement. Lenins Potato fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 00:09
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Dirty Beluga posted:
Take a Wye and put a 45 and it makes it a combination fitting. It basically has a better sweep to it. The thing shouldn't cause any problems for you so I wouldn't stress to much. Wouldn't hurt to throw a clean out in the kitchen line.
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Sep 12, 2013 01:12
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I decided to try to blow out the lines. I took the cartridge out and turned on the mains and water, both hot at cold, came gushing out of the mixer valve. After shutting the water back off I noticed another cartridge sitting in the tub. I figure this is my culprit as it is full of all kinds of poo poo. I cant just put everything back together though. When it was pushed out of the pipe a clip that holds it together broke off. When I tried to put everything back together, the water just stays on, regardless of the position of the shower handle. Since its now almost 10PM and there are no open plumbing stores, can I just tighten down the bolt/screws on the supply lines to effectively turn the water off to the shower? Id just leave the whole thing shut down, but my wife immediately started going on about things like brushing teeth and washing hair. EDIT: looks like I actually mean balancer(?) Gray Stormy fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Sep 13, 2013 |
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Sep 13, 2013 02:41
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Gray Stormy posted:I decided to try to blow out the lines. I took the cartridge out and turned on the mains and water, both hot at cold, came gushing out of the mixer valve. After shutting the water back off I noticed another cartridge sitting in the tub. Can you post a picture of it.Since all valves are different. And I would be able to help further.
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Sep 13, 2013 03:53
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This was before I flushed out the second cartridge The screws I keep talking about are on each side.  When I said that the water just stays on, I mean at almost full pressure. There's no change regardless of where the handle is. Gray Stormy fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Sep 13, 2013 |
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Sep 13, 2013 04:10
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Crisis averted! Turns out that second cartridge is a balance valve cartridge. I bought a new one today, popped it in and everything is great! Im really glad the plumber I called never called me back.
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Sep 13, 2013 13:20
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I dropped the springy rod that holds the toilet paper roll into the toilet while it was flushing. The toilet sucked it right down. I have reached in there as far as I can with a rubber glove and don't feel anything. Is it possible that it is stuck somewhere, or could it have been carried away without issue??? The toilet seems to flush ok.... :/
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Sep 13, 2013 16:49
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Associate Christ
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Kaluza-Klein posted:I dropped the springy rod that holds the toilet paper roll into the toilet while it was flushing. The toilet sucked it right down. I have reached in there as far as I can with a rubber glove and don't feel anything. Is it possible that it is stuck somewhere, or could it have been carried away without issue??? That depends on entirely on the condition of your drains. Still, flushing a toilet spring down a 3-4" pipe shouldn't catch on anything. It won't cause a clog by itself, but enough toilet paper flushed afterward could catch on it to make a clog, but toilet paper can do that all by itself without a spring. As for the long term, don't worry. Spring steel rusts. With a steel wire that thin, it should eventually rust away to nothing soon. If it catches on anything, it might catch on the opening on the bottom side of the toilet. One time I had a... feminine hygiene device still in its plastic wrapper catch juuuust right on the exit on the toilet bottom before. That thing was about the same size and shape as your spring, but unlike your spring it wouldn't decay away. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Sep 13, 2013 |
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Sep 13, 2013 21:21
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kid sinister posted:That depends on entirely on the condition of your drains. Still, flushing a toilet spring down a 3-4" pipe shouldn't catch on anything. It won't cause a clog by itself, but enough toilet paper flushed afterward could catch on it to make a clog, but toilet paper can do that all by itself without a spring. As for the long term, don't worry. Spring steel rusts. With a steel wire that thin, it should eventually rust away to nothing soon. Haha, no, the entire ~6 inch wood dowel went down there.... I wish it was just a spring :/
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Sep 14, 2013 00:28
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Have you flushed anything down besides water? Seems like a clog waiting to happen. Ugh, that's going to be bad.
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Sep 14, 2013 01:01
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I'd say pull the toilet and see if it's stuck in a trap somewhere. I doubt that it's flexible enough to fit through the trap. I wonder if it's hiding under the lip at the bottom of the bowl.. FLush a few times pull up a glove and see what you can find.. if nothing.. Pull the toilet and see what you can find.
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Sep 14, 2013 03:32
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tater_salad posted:I'd say pull the toilet and see if it's stuck in a trap somewhere. I doubt that it's flexible enough to fit through the trap. Another trick is if you can't see or reach anything, then carry the toilet outside and stick a garden hose up either end. See if you can flush it out.
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Sep 14, 2013 17:56
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kid sinister posted:Another trick is if you can't see or reach anything, then carry the toilet outside and stick a garden hose up either end. See if you can flush it out. Shop vac works decently too. Edit: spelling Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 15, 2013 01:24
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I'd prefer to do it in the garden than the back of the shop 
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Sep 15, 2013 11:11
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Is it normal for a sewage drain pipe to run in between a wall? Like the pipe itself its up against the drywall on both sides so it barely fits. If you were to hang a picture, for example, you'd pierce the sewage pipe.
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Sep 17, 2013 14:23
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FogHelmut posted:Is it normal for a sewage drain pipe to run in between a wall? Like the pipe itself its up against the drywall on both sides so it barely fits. If you were to hang a picture, for example, you'd pierce the sewage pipe. For the most part. It's kind of common to see drain and vent pipes being hit by nails and screws. I know one guy who puts some silicone on his screws because of some bad luck with that.
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Sep 17, 2013 14:36
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FogHelmut posted:Is it normal for a sewage drain pipe to run in between a wall? Like the pipe itself its up against the drywall on both sides so it barely fits. If you were to hang a picture, for example, you'd pierce the sewage pipe. 3" drain pipes are common, as are 2x4 walls. The O.D. of 3" DWV is 3.5 inches, the same width as a 2x4, so the drywall touches on both sides. If your vent stack goes to 4", then you get a 6" wall, and there's a little bit of wiggle room, but still definitely in range of nails and screws and stuff.
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Sep 18, 2013 00:36
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Well most 2x4 are 1.5x3.5 so putting a 3" abs pipe in it would be the entire removal of that section of 2x4. So you should always use a 2x6. Now while putting silicon on a screw to seal it if it hits a pipe sounds good. You don't want a screw in the pipe to catch "poo poo" literally. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Sep 18, 2013 |
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Sep 18, 2013 04:56
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Today I got to dig a nice whole about 8ft by 2ft so I could find out where the leak was in my front yard. A section of the yard was a swamp for the last month. I expected a failed fitting, but nope that wasn't it. The supply line for the house ruptured about 3 inches from an elbow and was saturating the soil. The idiots who did the plumbing also did the sprinkler system and decided to lay 2 sprinkler pipes directly on top of the supply line. Ended up having to splice one of them because I nicked it cutting the supply line. At least that's fixed. Now I just have to refill the trench tomorrow. Oh the joy of home ownership.
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Sep 21, 2013 22:36
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ShadowStalker posted:Today I got to dig a nice whole about 8ft by 2ft so I could find out where the leak was in my front yard. A section of the yard was a swamp for the last month. I expected a failed fitting, but nope that wasn't it. The supply line for the house ruptured about 3 inches from an elbow and was saturating the soil. The idiots who did the plumbing also did the sprinkler system and decided to lay 2 sprinkler pipes directly on top of the supply line. Ended up having to splice one of them because I nicked it cutting the supply line. At least that's fixed. That's... odd. What material was your supply line made from that it burst? Or did the sprinkler guys do it by accident? As an aside in general, where exactly is the demarcation point for utility water?
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Sep 22, 2013 00:55
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City side always starts on their side of the meter.
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Sep 22, 2013 00:58
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kid sinister posted:That's... odd. What material was your supply line made from that it burst? Or did the sprinkler guys do it by accident? It was a 1" PVC supply line. It was at the bottom of the pipe, so it wasn't causes when they installed the sprinkler lines (same time as they installed the supply line probably. It looks like it got hot on the bottom and swelled up. It's strange looking, never seen PVC do that before, looks almost like it has stretch marks. There was a 5 inch section that was discolored on the bottom and was slightly swollen looking. I cut off about a foot extra and replaced the elbow and a foot on the other side just to be on the safe side.
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Sep 22, 2013 02:41
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