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I... What is the layout of that house where a 7 foot tall window can be directly under the sink? I mean hey, free window, but then again it's under the sink.
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# ? Dec 6, 2013 23:01 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 13:52 |
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Johnny Aztec posted:I... What is the layout of that house where a 7 foot tall window can be directly under the sink? That wall certainly didn't use to be part of the kitchen, or at least didn't have the countertop/sink/cabinets there. Lots of people remodel this way. I'm not sure why.......it's not that hard to remove stuff like that, but I've run across it all too often. The easiest way to figure out where the sink used to be is to look in the basement/crawlspace for the oOo (hot/drain/cold pipe holes in the floor).
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# ? Dec 6, 2013 23:16 |
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They expanded the kitchen and knocked a thankfully not-load-bearing wall out between a spare room/bedroom and the kitchen. The sink used to be two feet further towards the camera from where the range on the island is now. The hidden window was a bedroom window, and 90% of the house has 10 foot ceilings. Another thing that the kitchen remodel did is make it so that, due to where the other window overlooking the back yard is, you can only see a very small area of the back yard from inside the house.
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# ? Dec 7, 2013 05:08 |
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kizudarake posted:They expanded the kitchen and knocked a thankfully not-load-bearing wall out between a spare room/bedroom and the kitchen. The sink used to be two feet further towards the camera from where the range on the island is now. The hidden window was a bedroom window, and 90% of the house has 10 foot ceilings. Another thing that the kitchen remodel did is make it so that, due to where the other window overlooking the back yard is, you can only see a very small area of the back yard from inside the house. How long did it take to rip the insulation out from under the stairs?
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# ? Dec 7, 2013 15:58 |
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Sounds like you didn't attach them correctly. We liquid nailed them to the walls! They took the sign, the paint and the first layer of render off getting them!
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# ? Dec 8, 2013 10:13 |
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Blistex posted:How long did it take to rip the insulation out from under the stairs? Thank Christ Grover didn't build this poo poo. Most of the lovely construction stuff we've run into involves that rear end in a top hat not actually completing jobs, although in one bedroom created from subdividing a giant dining room into a hallway and small bedroom, he dropped the light switch about a foot farther from the doorway than he should have.
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# ? Dec 8, 2013 16:38 |
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Ferremit posted:We liquid nailed them to the walls! They took the sign, the paint and the first layer of render off getting them! Put them in the spatdown zone. No one should want to peel poo poo coated signs up.
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# ? Dec 8, 2013 17:28 |
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Here was my favorite wiring splice job from Hanoi, Vietnam. It was low enough to easily reach. Note the tomb marker store across the street. Convenient!
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# ? Dec 8, 2013 19:18 |
I'm really unsure exactly what was being attempted here but I am a bit disturbed to be living in a house with it. The water heater is also popping/gurgling while heating plus the relief valve looks like it has leaked in the past. 1988 construction date in an area with hard water...
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# ? Dec 27, 2013 21:57 |
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What exactly are you concerned with other than a possibly 26 year old water heater and a bunch of scrap poo poo next to it? Have you ever drained it to see just how much sludge is in there? It could solve the entire issue.
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# ? Dec 28, 2013 01:31 |
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That is definitely not up to code if it's in California, but I don't know about other states. Here, it would have to be set on a raised platform and strapped to the wall, and also have a certain amount of space all around it. Also it looks like it's a gas-fired heater so it has to have proper ventilation above, but I can't see what's there. Water stains near the relief valve might be OK since it's fine to drain the water heater using that pipe.
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# ? Dec 28, 2013 02:07 |
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Leperflesh posted:That is definitely not up to code if it's in California, but I don't know about other states. CA has earthquake codes. So you can begin by forgetting about strapping for most of the world. Which is sensible in both cases. We dont' know where this is, so assuming it's in a small portion of the world that requires that is pretty nonsensical without further information. Second of all.....this is not a gas appliance. What would make you think that? The MC going to it masquerading as a gas line? Third of all, lest talk 1988 CA codes and clearances. Does it pass then? I bet is does. And codes aren't ex-post-facto other than in very narrow conditions and on ownership/tenant transfer so if it's original or just a "repar replacement" in most jurisdictions is would still be just fine. And while you're expounding on new codes, you missed the fact that there isn't a pan under it. Which also wouldn't be required if it's been there for 26 years.
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# ? Dec 28, 2013 02:28 |
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Oh, yeah, sorry I didn't mean to imply that any of that code would apply to this heater, even if it was in California. On the other hand, the point of being up to code isn't entirely an exercise in legal compliance: most codes are there for reasons (of safety) and those reasons may be applicable even if the law isn't. Yeah I guess that's flexible electrical conduit? Huh. ...my heater doesn't have a pan under it, I don't think.
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# ? Dec 28, 2013 02:42 |
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Leperflesh posted:Oh, yeah, sorry I didn't mean to imply that any of that code would apply to this heater, even if it was in California. On the other hand, the point of being up to code isn't entirely an exercise in legal compliance: most codes are there for reasons (of safety) and those reasons may be applicable even if the law isn't. Pan is not required per code but per sanity.
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# ? Dec 28, 2013 02:52 |
ColHannibal posted:per sanity. Not always, it depends on the setting. To wit: my water heater is on the concrete slab about 12" from the basement floor drain. Having a pan under it would hinder the relief of draining/leaking water more than anything else.
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# ? Dec 28, 2013 06:08 |
Motronic posted:CA has earthquake codes. So you can begin by forgetting about strapping for most of the world. Which is sensible in both cases. We dont' know where this is, so assuming it's in a small portion of the world that requires that is pretty nonsensical without further information. Haha, yes it is. Natural gas fired. Edit: Here's a quick video tour of the room it is in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-1_R41nnCw As you can see the ventilation consists of some holes drilled in the bottom of the door. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Dec 28, 2013 |
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# ? Dec 28, 2013 16:16 |
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Shifty Pony posted:Haha, yes it is. Natural gas fired. Well, you could have shown something that would indicate that. Your photo showed a piece of MC and didn't include the top. In any case, I still don't get what your concern is. Shifty Pony posted:As you can see the ventilation consists of some holes drilled in the bottom of the door. So? That's for makeup air now that we know it's a gas heater. You still haven't explained what you think the problem is. Does it pass modern clearance standards in your area? Probably not. Does it need to? Also probably not. What SPECIFICALLY are you concerned with other than the "popping" for which I already suggested you need to drain it (and should be doing so at least annually depending on your water source). It's likely full of sediment. Unless you're saying the "popping" is from the gas, in which case you need to explain in a lot more detail. If that is the original water heater and it's not leaking you want to fix it. Not only because new heaters are mostly junk but because there's no need to replace it (cheap and easy to fix pretty much regardless of what's happening). And find the anodes and replace them so it doesn't start leaking.
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# ? Dec 28, 2013 16:51 |
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I guess that the exhaust flue doesn't count as ventilation? (It goes to the outside, right?)
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# ? Dec 28, 2013 17:15 |
It is more me whining about the general slipshod construction of the house that the wall is made up of a random smattering of exterior fiberboard siding screwed haphazardly into the wall, with the heater having no drainage despite being on the same slab as the rest of the house. I plan on draining it to see if it improves the pretty awful swings in water heat and the banging sounds while heating, which are audible from a few rooms away. Oh and per specs on the installation instructions it requires 20in^2 of ventilation in the door.
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# ? Dec 28, 2013 17:16 |
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Motronic posted:Well, you could have shown something that would indicate that. Your photo showed a piece of MC and didn't include the top. That's a flexible gas line. This kind of water heater doesn't need any electricity. I can see how you would mistake the appearance of the line, but you can tell what kind it is from the thermostat. The three things coming out of the bottom of the thermostat are for the pilot light, the gas to the burner, and the thermocouple.
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# ? Dec 28, 2013 17:29 |
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I guess I should CSI-style zoom and enhance these photos rather than counting on the person posting to provide relevant information like what fuel a device uses. Because that still look like MC to me unless I zoom in on it.
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# ? Dec 28, 2013 17:45 |
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God drat it I was like "hell yes ten new posts" and then it was just a bunch of dicks complaining that his hot water heater isn't ghetto enough.
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# ? Dec 29, 2013 05:32 |
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I have literally never seen a gas water heater with the cable entering through the top of the unit, nor an electric with the cable entering through a box low down on the side with a knob on the top, so I'm gonna have to go with that obviously being a gas water heater.
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# ? Dec 29, 2013 06:29 |
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When we replaced the water tank in my house the water dramatically changed in flavour (our cold water is mains supplied but goes to a storage tank in the attic first rather than straight from the mains to the tap). For the first 25 years of my life I thought water was meant to taste like that. We changed to a plastic tank. I still miss the rust flavouring.
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# ? Jan 8, 2014 08:58 |
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Hey, that's what mineral water is, right?
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# ? Jan 8, 2014 14:13 |
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Nuntius posted:When we replaced the water tank in my house the water dramatically changed in flavour (our cold water is mains supplied but goes to a storage tank in the attic first rather than straight from the mains to the tap). For the first 25 years of my life I thought water was meant to taste like that. We changed to a plastic tank. I still miss the rust flavouring. Why do you have this arrangement? Sporadic outages? Low pressure?
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# ? Jan 8, 2014 18:02 |
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DNova posted:Why do you have this arrangement? Sporadic outages? Low pressure? Anemia
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# ? Jan 8, 2014 18:09 |
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Devor posted:Anemia Haha
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# ? Jan 8, 2014 18:28 |
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How old is the house? Might be leftover from before it had municipal water. A lot of folks had gravity fed water from cisterns/tanks, often filled via rainwater.
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# ? Jan 8, 2014 18:39 |
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Honestly, the answer to most "why" questions is, "it was like that when we bought it, and we don't have $X,000 to pay a plumber to fix it."
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# ? Jan 8, 2014 19:07 |
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smackfu posted:Honestly, the answer to most "why" questions is, "it was like that when we bought it, and we don't have $X,000 to pay a plumber to fix it." There's a toilet in the middle of my basement that's there for exactly that reason. The rear end in a top hat that put it in left the sewage pipe for it flush with the floor, and the water leads are under concrete as well. We just hung a sign over it saying 'Exhibitionists Only'.
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# ? Jan 8, 2014 19:15 |
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apatite posted:How old is the house? Might be leftover from before it had municipal water. A lot of folks had gravity fed water from cisterns/tanks, often filled via rainwater. One of my friends has a house with a gigantic cistern made of concrete and masonry in her basement. It's the size of a small pool. What exactly the gently caress is that about? Would it have somehow been filled with rainwater and then pumped to the rest of the house or what? Seems like a great way to get cholera and mold to me. Hers is deprecated by modern water supply and it just sits there taking up 60% of the space in her basement. I'd probably knock the walls down and recover the space if it was my place.
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# ? Jan 8, 2014 19:17 |
Liquid Communism posted:There's a toilet in the middle of my basement that's there for exactly that reason. The rear end in a top hat that put it in left the sewage pipe for it flush with the floor, and the water leads are under concrete as well.
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# ? Jan 8, 2014 19:17 |
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DNova posted:One of my friends has a house with a gigantic cistern made of concrete and masonry in her basement. It's the size of a small pool. What exactly the gently caress is that about? Would it have somehow been filled with rainwater and then pumped to the rest of the house or what? Seems like a great way to get cholera and mold to me. Hers is deprecated by modern water supply and it just sits there taking up 60% of the space in her basement. I'd probably knock the walls down and recover the space if it was my place. It is exactly the gently caress like you think Generally it would not have been pumped to the rest of the house, just a hand-pump like on a well at the kitchen sink. I don't think there was much concern with bacteria, mostly because they generally had an overflow, so when it was full and it rained some of the water was displaced. The water wasn't really used for drinking in most cases. Here is a neat link: http://www.oldhouseweb.com/blog/cisterns-historic-water-convservation/
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# ? Jan 8, 2014 19:41 |
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apatite posted:It is exactly the gently caress like you think Generally it would not have been pumped to the rest of the house, just a hand-pump like on a well at the kitchen sink. Thanks. She's out in kind of a rural area but her house is from the 20s or 30s, so I guess it makes sense. I grew up in an area with older houses but there was always water infrastructure, so I'd never seen one. Instead of water cisterns, most the houses where I grew up had coal rooms. They were fairly large rooms in the basement with a hatch to the outside in the driveway. Coal deliveries would go down the hatch and just pile up in the coal room and then you would transfer it to your furnace's (or stoves') hopper(s) for heating.
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# ? Jan 8, 2014 19:53 |
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Bad Munki posted:You should frame it in with steel beams and put lexan walls all around. When people ask, just be cagey and change the subject. Might be fun. Put a big halogen spotlight right above it too.
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# ? Jan 9, 2014 19:40 |
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apatite posted:How old is the house? Might be leftover from before it had municipal water. A lot of folks had gravity fed water from cisterns/tanks, often filled via rainwater. The house is only 30 years old (considered 'new' in my city), All the houses here have it. I just thought it was normal??
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# ? Jan 13, 2014 21:33 |
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So it's basically a tiny water-tower hiding in your attic? Never seen something like that and most all the houses here are 100+ years old. But I guess we've had good water pressure for longer.
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# ? Jan 13, 2014 21:53 |
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Or you can remove the toilet and put a cap on that drain if it's flush with the floor.
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# ? Jan 13, 2014 21:55 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 13:52 |
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I have some mysterious gutter-shaped holes in the ground by my house where gutters were originally and a concrete pad next to the house by the garage, and I've always figured it's a filled in cistern. I know people have been doing this here, and I'd love to uncover mine and do it, but if you like to garden/do things in your yard you can treat it as a giant rain barrel to water the yard with. Unless these things really are bacteria/disease factories and the water wouldn-t even be good for watering plants. I've never really seen cisterns in the attics around here though. It was common when I was in Mexico since it was their bathwater as well.
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# ? Jan 13, 2014 21:58 |