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Bad Munki posted:What are you looking for, specifically? I'm in Erie and there are a ton of sawmills around here that do local hardwoods (oak, maple, walnut, cherry, etc.) and sell in small quantities as needed but I have found precisely zero sources for anything exotic. However, Erie hardcore sucks and Pittsburgh has way more options. If you're after the more interesting stuff, there's a woodcraft up in Cleveland if you're ever up that way. I live inside the Pittsburgh city limits I don't need anything fancy; I just want to get some maple or poplar for building a workbench.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 13:21 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 04:52 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm getting interested in getting deeper into more advanced for woodworking, what tools should I focus on first, what do I have most use for? What are good projects to start out with? Is a router too advanced a tool to start out with, seems like it's very useful for all kinds of things, esp. if you build a table for it. Buy tools to fit the project you are going to build. Don't buy a bunch of tools and then be like "ok what can I build with this stuff"
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 13:36 |
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I need a method to sharpen my chisels. New to this: what should I buy? An angle guide and some shapening stones; but can anyone recommend specific items?
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 13:39 |
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mds2 posted:Buy tools to fit the project you are going to build. Don't buy a bunch of tools and then be like "ok what can I build with this stuff" Well i'm gonna be building workbenches, shelves and stuff like that. I dunno if mortise and tenon joinery would be worth using here since it's pretty rough carpentry. Was just gonna nailgun and screw it together with angle brackets and the like. Whats a good way to get a nice smooth work surface, a planer, sanding?
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 13:51 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'd like to eventually acquire the skill and tooling to build a new desk for myself (something like this), and also some bookshelves sometime in the future, but I guess I should start out small and work my way up. You're on the right track, start simple and work up. (FYI, even with a 24" monitor, your picture is 3X the width of my screen.) His Divine Shadow posted:Well i'm gonna be building workbenches, shelves and stuff like that. I dunno if mortise and tenon joinery would be worth using here since it's pretty rough carpentry. Was just gonna nailgun and screw it together with angle brackets and the like. If you want to build skills, don't settle for rough carpentry. Push yourself on every project. Angle brackets aren't woodworking, practice wood joints instead. You'll make mistakes and that's okay, everyone does, but you'll learn how to fix them. Another point is learn the right way to build things. Make your workbench rigid without resorting to metal angle brackets or cross braces. The Complete Woodworker's Companion by Roger Holmes is one of my favorite WW books, it briefly covers tools and wood then teaches through a series of projects. Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, I consider the closest thing to a WW bible. Many people writing books today learned directly or indirectly from Tage Frid. Planes and sandpaper will both make a smooth surface, but you'll need a well tuned fine quality plane to go that route.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 15:56 |
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Walked posted:I need a method to sharpen my chisels. New to this: what should I buy? I'm a no-guide sharpener so I can't help you on that. I like the Ezelap diamond stones in coarse, fine and super fine grades. You can find them on amazon and they're pretty reasonable.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 16:08 |
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wormil posted:You're on the right track, start simple and work up. (FYI, even with a 24" monitor, your picture is 3X the width of my screen.) Sorry just got the photo from a GIS and put it on imgur. quote:If you want to build skills, don't settle for rough carpentry. Push yourself on every project. Angle brackets aren't woodworking, practice wood joints instead. You'll make mistakes and that's okay, everyone does, but you'll learn how to fix them. Another point is learn the right way to build things. Make your workbench rigid without resorting to metal angle brackets or cross braces. Would you recommend I invest in a router at this stage then, or are there other ways I can go about wood joinery to start with? A router looks like a real fine tool though it feels a bit overkill for me ATM. I guess I could get mortises cut with a drill and some jig to keep the depth constant, then take our the rest with a chisel. I lack any real sawing tools aside from a miter saw and circular saw though and those aren't good for this kind of work I think. Maybe a jigsaw could come in handy. Or maybe I am getting ahead of myself, other ways to join wood than mortise & tenon. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Apr 23, 2014 |
# ? Apr 23, 2014 18:14 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:Would you recommend I invest in a router at this stage then, or are there other ways I can go about wood joinery to start with? A router looks like a real fine tool though it feels a bit overkill for me ATM. I'm kind of inclined to say that everyone should start with hand tools for at least a little bit before "graduating" to power tools, just to get a feel for how wood works. But, y'know, it's your hobby. Routers are super useful, and a basic router bit set like this one (or the 1/4" shank version; pay attention to what diameter of shank your router has) will carry you a good ways. And yeah, you absolutely can do joinery without a router. People have been making dovetail joints for far longer than there've been routers. Also, hand tools never really stop being useful, if only for when there's a small, easy job to do. No sense taking the router out, setting the right bit, plugging it in, etc. when you just need to knock off a splinter.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 18:24 |
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All you need is a chisel and mallet, maybe a handsaw for the tenon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPBkO2chZxk A hand plane is nice to clean up the surfaces of the joint once it's assembled, but sanding would work too, or paring with a chisel if the tenon is a little proud.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 19:29 |
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Cpt.Wacky posted:All you need is a chisel and mallet, maybe a handsaw for the tenon: This is how I do all of mine. Learned from this very video (he has a few others on the topic too).
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 19:35 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:Would you recommend I invest in a router at this stage then, or are there other ways I can go about wood joinery to start with? A router looks like a real fine tool though it feels a bit overkill for me ATM. Routers are good. I use mine less than most people but it was among the first power tools I bought. Jigsaws are good but overrated as all purpose saws, wait until you need one then buy a very good one. You can do a lot with circular saw. I built 3 Shaker style tables with tapered legs using just a circular saw, a drill, and chisels. Don't ask me how I tapered legs with a circ. saw because I honestly can't remember. An alternative to mortise and tenons are lap joints, there are a godzillion different kinds and they are among the strongest and most versatile wood joints.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 23:31 |
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Walked posted:I need a method to sharpen my chisels. New to this: what should I buy? Stay away from the Stanley kit. It is complete garbage and I made the mistake of getting it. I'm sure someone will chime in with a good guide. As for stones, have you considered the Scary Sharp Method
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# ? Apr 24, 2014 05:27 |
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wormil posted:Routers are good. I use mine less than most people but it was among the first power tools I bought. Jigsaws are good but overrated as all purpose saws, wait until you need one then buy a very good one. You can do a lot with circular saw. I built 3 Shaker style tables with tapered legs using just a circular saw, a drill, and chisels. Don't ask me how I tapered legs with a circ. saw because I honestly can't remember. An alternative to mortise and tenons are lap joints, there are a godzillion different kinds and they are among the strongest and most versatile wood joints. I was talking on an SA irc channel earlier this morning (or middle of the night in america I guess) with people who have experience with wood working and a table saw seemed to be the single most useful tool in their opinion for any wood worker. Still it seems you can do a lot with a circular saw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNX9Y2cyRhk
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# ? Apr 24, 2014 12:40 |
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So I'm wrapping up a coffee table build that went fairly well; but not without it's share of problems. It did leave me with some questions moving forward. 1) Is there a particular technique for getting accurate height measurements of a dado blade? I found slowly inching up ended up working best because every time I used a combination blade to measure the blade it was off. Maybe I'm missing something. It was quite frustrating to go that way. 2) I did some cross-halving joints for the sides of the table and kept having issues getting accurate measurements for the dados in these. Eventually I managed to work it out, but not without a share of problems. Is there some way to measure these perfectly that I might have missed? Basically little technique things I'm just trying to finesse and figure out if there was a better way to do it. I didnt work from plans aside from a drawing I did in sketchup; but I ended up with stuff like 21.552" dimensions (in sketchup, for example0, so I had to adjust a bit at least.
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# ? Apr 24, 2014 17:47 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:I was talking on an SA irc channel earlier this morning (or middle of the night in america I guess) with people who have experience with wood working and a table saw seemed to be the single most useful tool in their opinion for any wood worker. Holy shinola, people still use IRC? And talk about woodworking? I haven't been on IRC in probably 10 years. As for table saws, yeah I think so but I admit it isn't universally true and really depends on your style, projects and preference. My thought process toward TS is that you should buy the best you can afford of the size that fits your needs. The 3 main types from smallest to heaviest: jobsite, contractor/hybrid, and cabinet (usually 220v). I'm not a fan of jobsite (portable) saws except for rough carpentry but they have improved over the years, a few goons have them and seem to like them. Contractor or hybrid saws are sufficient for most hobbyists, they have induction motors that can run 110v or 220v, usually 1.5 - 2 hp. The difference between contractor and hybrid is contractor has the motor hanging out the back while a hybrid is a light duty cabinet style saw. The new Delta saw is getting very positive reviews by owners (disclaimer, I am a Delta fanboy). Cabinet saws are nice if you have the space and 220v, Powermatic has a 110v cabinet saw. Band saws are an alternative but it requires a different thought process and you will need other machines to make up the difference. Walked posted:1) getting accurate height measurements of a dado blade? 1) If there is I'm unaware of it. There are height gauges but no matter what I've tried there is still a bit of trial and error to get them perfect. 2) Are you talking about half lap joints? See answer 1)
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# ? Apr 24, 2014 20:16 |
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Which new Delta?
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# ? Apr 24, 2014 20:19 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:I was talking on an SA irc channel earlier this morning (or middle of the night in america I guess) with people who have experience with wood working and a table saw seemed to be the single most useful tool in their opinion for any wood worker. I second. I wish I still had my dad's oldballs table saw, even given the fact that two of its table legs were rusting out into nubs. After I buy a router table, the table saw is next.
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# ? Apr 24, 2014 20:24 |
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Stultus Maximus posted:Which new Delta? The $600 one at Lowes. There are some reviews on Lumberjocks including one by a former engineer that is among the most thorough reviews I've ever read. The tldr version is the manual is poor but the saw is good.
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# ? Apr 24, 2014 20:46 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:I was talking on an SA irc channel earlier this morning (or middle of the night in america I guess) with people who have experience with wood working and a table saw seemed to be the single most useful tool in their opinion for any wood worker. i do this a lot and it works great but i always feel like im doing something wrong
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# ? Apr 25, 2014 04:45 |
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wormil posted:Holy shinola, people still use IRC? And talk about woodworking? I haven't been on IRC in probably 10 years. As for table saws, yeah I think so but I admit it isn't universally true and really depends on your style, projects and preference. My thought process toward TS is that you should buy the best you can afford of the size that fits your needs. The 3 main types from smallest to heaviest: jobsite, contractor/hybrid, and cabinet (usually 220v). I'm not a fan of jobsite (portable) saws except for rough carpentry but they have improved over the years, a few goons have them and seem to like them. Contractor or hybrid saws are sufficient for most hobbyists, they have induction motors that can run 110v or 220v, usually 1.5 - 2 hp. The difference between contractor and hybrid is contractor has the motor hanging out the back while a hybrid is a light duty cabinet style saw. The new Delta saw is getting very positive reviews by owners (disclaimer, I am a Delta fanboy). Cabinet saws are nice if you have the space and 220v, Powermatic has a 110v cabinet saw. Band saws are an alternative but it requires a different thought process and you will need other machines to make up the difference. It's actually the TFR channel but we talk about pretty much everything, like 80-90 people there almost always. I have no need for a portable saw as I would just place it in the garage and keep it there, possibly take it outside I guess if it was warm & stuffy... And since I'm in europe we only have 220v outlets here, unless it's three-phase outlets, which I also have. Going by local selection I saw a Bosch PTS-10 for 449€ in the local hardware store last night. I understand the blue GTS-10 is much better, but someone else said the Dewalt 744 is better than the GTS-10 due to some techincal terms I forgot, I think the DW744 is on the upper end of what I could afford but that's just a portable model. EDIT: I'm a bit paranoid about cutting off my fingers and stuff when I'm gonna be working with powertools like this, are there any kind of cut resistant work gloves that would be of help here? I know they exist for kitchen duties and I use one sometimes when I can't use the handguard for my mandolin. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 09:37 on Apr 25, 2014 |
# ? Apr 25, 2014 05:14 |
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Turns out there's no real middle market in finland/sweden area for table saws, it jumps from portable saws like the Bosch GTS-10 (4100 in america) and DW744 to super expensive cabinet saws. I was told the brits have actual cabinet saws and this one looks interesting, if not a bit out of my budget http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-series-aw10bsb2-saw-bench-24891 Any UK people here that could chime in on Axminster?
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# ? Apr 25, 2014 13:07 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:Turns out there's no real middle market in finland/sweden area for table saws, it jumps from portable saws like the Bosch GTS-10 (4100 in america) and DW744 to super expensive cabinet saws. I was told the brits have actual cabinet saws and this one looks interesting, if not a bit out of my budget My father uses Axminster all the time; he has, as far as I know, no regrets.
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# ? Apr 25, 2014 13:10 |
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I am wondering if shipping to Finland might not be a bit extreme on that one. Also starting to wonder if I am getting in over my head with these expensive tools right at the start. I'll see about getting some nicer blades for my Bosch pks 40 first, that way I can do tenons and dado cuts with the help of jigs. Mortises are somewhat more difficult...
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# ? Apr 25, 2014 13:55 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:EDIT: So far as I'm aware, the only realistic options for not losing fingers are a) don't put your fingers in the blade (), or b) buy a Sawstop table saw. They're expensive, but they're also apparently quite nice feature-wise, not to mention the blade will slam to a halt as soon as it detects that it's cutting flesh instead of wood. It's a bit hard on the saw, but better that then losing a finger.
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# ? Apr 25, 2014 15:02 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm a bit paranoid about cutting off my fingers and stuff Paranoid is good. I'm still paranoid. Best advice is don't put anything inline with the blade that you want in one piece. A common mistake is pushing a board into the blade with your left hand while ripping. A variation on that (pushing with thumbs inline with the blade) causes injuries on the bandsaw. Getting hurt isn't bad luck, it's bad habits.
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# ? Apr 25, 2014 17:01 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:EDIT: Resist the temptation to wear gloves while using power tools. It might seem like they'd offer protection if you contact a blade, but its likely they will get caught on the teeth/moving parts, pulling your hand further into the machinery, which can cause much worse injuries. That said, gloves can be good to have in the shop for carrying and moving around rough/splintery lumber.
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# ? Apr 26, 2014 03:46 |
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Truth, never use gloves with rotating machines.
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# ? Apr 26, 2014 04:17 |
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Pretty sure I am not gonna get that big axminster saw as my first saw after having slept on it. Just too much money for me right now, read good things about this one though: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-hobby-series-ts-250m-table-saw Cast iron work surface sounds pretty good and durable. There are addons available and you can even make your own bench extensions and mods. There's also the AEG TS 250 K but I like the axminster more for the cast iron surface.
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# ? Apr 26, 2014 04:55 |
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The junk collector posted:Truth, never use gloves with rotating machines. I was in my garage using a power drill when a giant cicada landed on my chest scaring the poo poo out of me. I jumped back and the drill caught my shirt, in less than a second the drill had pulled into my stomach. Luckily I had pulled my finger off the trigger as soon as I jumped back so it just pushed into me doing no damage.
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# ? Apr 26, 2014 05:59 |
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I heard wormil say he was a Delta fanboy, turns out they do exist here too, local had this for 80 euros, is this a deal or a pass?
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# ? Apr 26, 2014 07:34 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:I heard wormil say he was a Delta fanboy, turns out they do exist here too, local had this for 80 euros, is this a deal or a pass? I don't know anything about their scrollsaws, honestly some of their stuff is hit and miss but I've been satisfied overall.
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# ? Apr 26, 2014 16:18 |
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I'm planning on making a nice farmer's table for my sister's wedding present. She's getting married next summer, so I have some time. I also am ok with giving her the gift late... But I've never done mortise and tenon joinery. Would it make sense to just practice mortise and tenons on random 2 bys I have laying around? I'm planning on using soft woods, just because I have a ton of it, and I can mill what I need from my property. Here's the kind of table and mortise and tenon joints I want to make: http://oldhousecrazy.com/2012/04/08/reclaimed-heart-pine-farmhouse-table-diy-part-4-mortise-and-tenon-joinery-the-understructure/
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# ? Apr 26, 2014 22:45 |
I'm making some fancypants knitting needles for a craft exchange. Step 1: grab some crazy colors Step 2: make sticks Step 3: get jiggy with it Step 4: cut a pile of little pieces Step 5: this isn't actually another step Step 5: still not another step Step 5: arrange and prepare Step 6: get gluin', already! That's two sticks, back-to-back in the second-to-last pic. So it'll be that single-row purpleheart/osage down one lateral half of the stick, with a solid curly maple backing on the other lateral half. Because the purple/orange pieces have that scarf, when I turn it to a dowel, it should end up looking more like scales than blocks. I also added one last piece on the business end of the stick that is more maple, so it'll be purple/orange scales down to a pure maple point. I'll probably do something similar at the back end where there'll be a stop. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Apr 27, 2014 |
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# ? Apr 27, 2014 03:41 |
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^ Nifty. I look forward to seeing them in dowel form. I finally finished the staircase handrail project I started back in...jeeze, August or September. The poor thing was sitting on the floor of my garage all winter, and the changing temperature and humidity was not great for it, but now that it's done I think the minor flaws are not a big deal. Working with a 13'-long project is a pain in the rear end, incidentally, especially when you don't have a proper workbench. The glue-up, running it through the thickness planer, keeping it clean while applying finish, etc. were all way more aggravating than they would have been on a more...contained...project.
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# ? Apr 27, 2014 04:45 |
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Little mishap on Saturday. Turning the inside of a small bowl and got a catch which cracked the foot. It was to be a present for my niece, so I filmed it for her to watch. This is why you shouldn't use spindle gouges on bowls. http://youtu.be/yE4flVJsLDE
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# ? Apr 27, 2014 07:22 |
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Just a reminder, Lowes is clearance their Bessey Clamps. I might have stocked up...
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# ? Apr 28, 2014 18:12 |
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How much?
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# ? Apr 28, 2014 18:24 |
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It seems to vary by store. I had to hit up three stores to grab these- they were about 1/2 sold out and I left only 1-2 per store that were in bad shape (broken plastic rests/ect- looked like someone beat them against the concrete floor, it was odd.) The 50" were $39-42/each The 40" were $34-38/each The 24" were $28-34/each Not the best deal, but all said and done I should not need any more of this style of clamp.
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# ? Apr 28, 2014 19:59 |
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the spyder posted:It seems to vary by store. I had to hit up three stores to grab these- they were about 1/2 sold out and I left only 1-2 per store that were in bad shape (broken plastic rests/ect- looked like someone beat them against the concrete floor, it was odd.) It's not possible to have enough clamps.
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# ? Apr 28, 2014 21:24 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 04:52 |
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wormil posted:The $600 one at Lowes. There are some reviews on Lumberjocks including one by a former engineer that is among the most thorough reviews I've ever read. The tldr version is the manual is poor but the saw is good. Cool. I've been looking at that one and the Craftsman 21833, and further investigation suggests that the Craftsman is basically a variation on the Ridgid R4512 with similar hit-or-miss alignment problem.
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# ? Apr 29, 2014 00:19 |