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His Divine Shadow posted:So that table saw I wanted, they say it can't accept dado blades, I was a real stickler about getting a saw with a long arbor for a big dado set, and then after years of watching youtube woodworkers who I will never, ever be as skilled as, I realized that almost none of them bother with dados, they just do a couple passes on the table saw. I don't think I've used a dado stack in a couple years now.
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May 2, 2014 16:37
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The confusing part here is I keep hearing as many pro dado as anti-dado sentiments from people who have long experience with wood working. To me the dado setup looked real nifty from the moment I saw it. I can see why it's not as safe but I also saw people make sleds for them that make handling a dado safer and easier so the safety aspect looks manageable. Addon: This guy stacks regular blade for an improv dado, horribly unsafe or not? https://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/dado.html His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 20:05 on May 2, 2014 |
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May 2, 2014 19:27
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His Divine Shadow posted:Addon: He has some notes at the bottom, the most important is that EU doesn't approve any dado use of any type, and those types of cuts are done with routers / shapers, or simply using a different technique (A joint that uses a dado can often be done with a different, usually better, technique). That said, is there some kind of award we can nominate Matthias for? I mean, not a Nobel prize or MacArthur grant, but just a half-step down, maybe?
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May 2, 2014 20:53
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Stalin McHitler posted:Absolutely gorgeous. Fantastic work. What process do you use to clean up the edges of the slab to get it so clean looking? Thanks. I peeled back any loose bark with a screw driver. Then I used abrasive impregnated nylon cup and wheel brushes in various grits to smooth it out. The rest of the edges that didn't have natural contour or where the chainsaw marks were left were shaped by hand with rasps and bigger work was done with a jigsaw and sawzall.
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May 2, 2014 21:14
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Cobalt60 posted:He has some notes at the bottom, the most important is that EU doesn't approve any dado use of any type, and those types of cuts are done with routers / shapers, or simply using a different technique (A joint that uses a dado can often be done with a different, usually better, technique). The EU thing is soley in regards to CE certification (the mass of a dado blade = can't meet a certain quick stop feature without other issues) and professional use. Dados are perfectly legal for private people and hobbyists. Making dado joints with a dado blade was actually the farthest from my mind, cutting tenons quickly and easily is more likely.
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May 2, 2014 21:21
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From my brief time using a table saw I'd say the main argument against dado sets for casual use is just convenience. I'd be much more likely to make a few close cuts, knock the waste out with a hammer and clean it up with a chisel if needed. Changing the blades out for dado and then back again would be annoying. Maybe I just haven't done enough blade changes to be quick at it though. Mathias sometimes will use a circular saw set at the dado depth and just run it side to side to clean up the waste after knocking the narrow cuts out. And yeah, there must be some sort of Canadian citizen achievement award that he could be nominated for.
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May 2, 2014 22:02
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I made a new Moxon vice. It has bench dog holes and a mirror for dovetail sawing.
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May 2, 2014 22:10
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I have owned my saw for over 15 years and never used a dado blade. Nothing against them just never cut enough dadoes to bother buying one. I did stack circular saw blades once but the cut was unsatisfactory, probably the reason you never see it done. There are other ways to cut a tenon, just a little less convenient.
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May 2, 2014 22:36
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I bought a dado set on sale at Grizzly a year or two ago, and I'm very happy with it. I don't know if I could justify getting a Forrest or Freud set, but the generic brand was cheap enough. It is a slight pain to change back and forth, but if you have a batch of pieces to cut it certainly saves time over setting up the router for each cut. But I've gone at least fifteen years without a stacked dado set, so it's nothing I couldn't live without.
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May 3, 2014 02:42
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Nice Sweet Meat posted:I made a new Moxon vice. It has bench dog holes and a mirror for dovetail sawing. The mirror is an amazing idea! I've been wanting to build I moxon vice. How far from the floor to the top of it?
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May 3, 2014 03:34
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One Legged Ninja posted:I bought a dado set on sale at Grizzly a year or two ago, and I'm very happy with it. I don't know if I could justify getting a Forrest or Freud set, but the generic brand was cheap enough. It is a slight pain to change back and forth, but if you have a batch of pieces to cut it certainly saves time over setting up the router for each cut. But I've gone at least fifteen years without a stacked dado set, so it's nothing I couldn't live without. Maybe I've been corrupted by Norm but every time he uses his dado blades to cut tenons and the like I'm always "that's the coolest stuff you can do with a table saw I'm sure". I'm imagening situations like I'm making a table or a desk or something and I got a bunch of boards ready to get tenons cut. Whip out the dado blade and set up the dado sled (gonna make one, with a table guard, looks a lot safer) and cut them all in a jiffy. Edit: Asking about this on a swedish forum too and there the opinion is a dado is not required. Maybe I am being too hung up on it, but it's such a cool f eature. One guy said I should beware of buying a clone of an american saw as I would get all my stuff in imperial and they have smaller diameter axles and flanges that aren't as good as euro saws (was a bit of america sucks tone in his post). His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:19 on May 3, 2014 |
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May 3, 2014 06:28
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Yep, it's really nice if you have a bunch of material to waste out, or a lot of dadoes to make. And it makes a nice flat bottomed groove, if that's going to show at all. But there's always another way to do something. If your pieces are short enough to stand on end on the saw, you could make or buy a tenoning jig. Or you could saw the cheeks of the tenons with a bandsaw, or if you're into hand tools, a backsaw, then clean it up with a shoulder plane. Or do the whole thing with a router, and just make a jig to clamp on the board. And this is the coolest thing you can do with a table saw.
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May 3, 2014 13:21
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To throw another stick into the fire, short vs long rip fence? From what I can tell, a long rip fence is better because just by clamping on a suitable plank you can use it as a short rip fence and have the best of both worlds. Though I am not quite sure where a long rip fence is better than a short one. Also anyone made a sled for ripping? I am thinking a simple sled with clamps to hold down the board on the left side, some jigs to set it at the right distance and then you just slide the whole thing through and don't have to bother with getting guide sticks and your hands anywhere near the blade.
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May 4, 2014 14:47
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This is the best place I could think to post this. I've googled without finding anything definitive. I've got a bunch of outdoor furniture made of Acacia (from Ikea). According to them it should be "reglazed" once a year. I did so last year, but it was a total pain in the rear end since I live in an apartment and have a small deck (not much room to work). I need to at least sand it because the surface is very rough. How fast is it going to go to poo poo if I leave it untreated? I live in DC so it gets a pretty good range of hot/cold and weather.
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May 4, 2014 20:54
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Just bought a Zhen santouku knife blade from the Woodcraft and a scrap of Bocote for the scales. Has anyone assembled these before? The guy at the store was pretty skeptical about using an epoxy to attache the scales to the tang, but I was under the impression that was pretty standard practice? Also how should I see them, lots of layers of poly?
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May 4, 2014 23:43
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I would probably just oil it, or do a wipe on varnish. I'm not a fan of the thick poly look.
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May 5, 2014 00:59
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His Divine Shadow posted:To throw another stick into the fire, short vs long rip fence? From what I can tell, a long rip fence is better because just by clamping on a suitable plank you can use it as a short rip fence and have the best of both worlds. Though I am not quite sure where a long rip fence is better than a short one. My Unifence allows me to effectively adjust the length by sliding it back and forth. I've tried it in short fence mode and it just feels awkward but that's after many years of using it "normal". Some people really like short fences. The fence John Heisz built for his saw is fairly short, at least compared to mine. Many people make sleds for ripping narrow strips, there are several different types.
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May 5, 2014 04:59
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I got an old floor standing radio I'm refinishing. It's from 1946-47 as far as I can tell. I believe it is finished in lacquer so I'm using lacquer thinner and steel wool to remove it. Anyone have any tips on what I should watch out for? I'm not sure what I want to finish it with when I'm done. It was made two-tone somehow but after I've removed the lacquer the wood just looks natural so it wasn't stained I don't think. I started with the top, which was beaten up pretty bad. It's in way worse condition than the picture would suggest. There are a few deep scratches and stains from people leaving drinks or something on top of it. Most of it is veneer so I can't sand it down too far.  2014-57 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr Edit: I started using 120 grit and 400 grit sandpaper instead.  2014-72 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr TomR fucked around with this message at 18:39 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 17:35
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Since I'm still in process of building my shop, I decided to make a work bench this weekend. I'm using Norm's design, combined with one I've seen in Frank Howarth's videos. The only difference is the lower shelf and locking casters instead of Norm's open bottom design and collapsible caster system. It's exactly 1/16" below my tablesaw with the MDF top installed. Total cost was around $130. ($40 sheet of 3/4 ply, $40 sheet of 1/2" ply, $40 in 5mil underlayment, free casters, screws, and some glue). I still need to pickup a $40 sheet of 3/4 MDF for the top (I forgot I broke the one up I had to fix the Delta's extension, oops). So that brings the total to $170. Even shop furniture is not cheap. That's my brother in the pictures helping.      After we finished the work bench, we started making beehives and nesting boxes for our chickens. About a 1/3rd of the way through I noticed my miter saw was making terrible cuts, despite having just re-set it up before starting. I grabbed the blade and it moved freely, 1/16th"+ left to right. I'm not sure it's worth fixing, but I sure got my $100 out of it that I paid off craigslist for it three years ago. So we made a panel sled out of some 1/2" birch ply and black walnut. The strip to the right was cut off the recycled fir I used for the fence. I'm going to redo the fence tonight, for some reason I set it up like a cross cut sled, not a panel sled.  I'm considering either A) Going with a fixed 12" miter saw and just using my radial/tablesaw + sleds, or B) buying a Bosch 12" sliding. Input? the spyder fucked around with this message at 20:36 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 20:00
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That's a pretty epic amount of space you have there. When can I move in?
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May 5, 2014 20:04
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It looks big now, but every inch is planned out. The shop overall is 30x48x14. It's being divided down the middle at 24ft and then again on the west end into two 15x24x8 rooms. One for wood working and one for metal working. The loft above will be used for storage. The rest of the 24x30 space is for cars/welders/cnc plasma/painting. I'm about 1/4 done overall. We are hoping to build the loft/rooms and insulate/sheet the inside before the fall. 
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May 5, 2014 20:30
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TomR posted:I got an old floor standing radio I'm refinishing. It's from 1946-47 as far as I can tell. I believe it is finished in lacquer so I'm using lacquer thinner and steel wool to remove it. Anyone have any tips on what I should watch out for? Bet that will look sharp when finished. I've always wanted an old radio like that. My friend's grandpa had one and we could tune in AM stations from all over the world. A few people add modern electronics so they stream music. Judging by the amber tint to the finish I would have guessed amber shellac which would also explain the water rings. The new finish doesn't need to be bomb proof unless you will also be setting drinks on top (I'd guess not) so shellac, lacquer or varnish will do. Shellac or varnish will impart a warm tone, lacquer is the most neutral, water base products will give it a cool tone. If you have spray equipment I'd go with lacquer and maybe add a toner. If finishing by hand a wiping varnish would be simple although I hate the fumes and long drying time.
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May 5, 2014 20:46
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the spyder posted:
Great loving space. For what it's worth, I got a Home Depot floor model of a 12" miter saw fixed up by a local shop for $50. Have you checked the tightness of the collars? I do love sliding miter saws, though. If I hadn't gotten my current fixed one at discount, I would have gotten a slider.
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May 5, 2014 21:23
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I'm going to take it apart tonight, it looks like there is a spindle retention plate that could be loose. It has a pleathra of other issues though and I would not mind just straight up replacing it due to these. It has fun features like a broken return mechanism for the blade guard, a slightly bent rear fence (just noticed), and saving the best for last: the electronic brake is fubar. When you release the trigger, one of two things happen. The saw spins down (for what seems to be way to long) and stops with a minor kick (not enough to surprise you or jerk the saw), or you release the trigger and the saw keeps going, until 10 seconds later the blade brake engages, causing the the saw violently kick and scare you enough to let go. I'm sure with enough time, parts, and electronics cleaner- this would be a good little saw, but I just don't have the time.
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May 5, 2014 21:45
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There is always the radial arm saw, though. It should do most of the things the sliding miter saw is failing at, right?
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May 5, 2014 23:28
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Any feedback on this table saw? It's actually a bit outside my budget but I was figuring I could start selling other stuff to fund it, but it seems pretty solid: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Table-Saw...=item2587ec587d Meant to post in the tool thread but it fits here as well I guess. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 13:26 on May 6, 2014 |
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May 6, 2014 13:15
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wormil posted:Bet that will look sharp when finished. I've always wanted an old radio like that. My friend's grandpa had one and we could tune in AM stations from all over the world. A few people add modern electronics so they stream music. Judging by the amber tint to the finish I would have guessed amber shellac which would also explain the water rings. The new finish doesn't need to be bomb proof unless you will also be setting drinks on top (I'd guess not) so shellac, lacquer or varnish will do. Shellac or varnish will impart a warm tone, lacquer is the most neutral, water base products will give it a cool tone. If you have spray equipment I'd go with lacquer and maybe add a toner. If finishing by hand a wiping varnish would be simple although I hate the fumes and long drying time. I'm going to try a clear lacquer and see how it looks. The wood seems to be coming out nice.  2014-73 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr
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May 6, 2014 17:48
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Wish I had the patience for restoration work. I've worked on a couple things but sanding and finishing are my least favorite parts of woodworking.
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May 6, 2014 20:52
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Yeah, I know what you mean. I don't have a wood working shop anymore so all my tools are stuffed in a shed. I got a sunburn from sanding outside. I've done this all by hand so far too. I may switch to an orbital sander with the 400 grit, if I can find it.
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May 6, 2014 21:07
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We've been trying to refinish two fireplace mantles in our house and it seems like it'll be the never ending project.
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May 6, 2014 21:16
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Do I need a sliding miter saw? I have a circular saw and plan to get a table saw in the next 6 months. I'll need a miter saw sooner than that and I either will get a sliding compound miter saw or the Craftsman MiterMate. I have an old (100+) house with old plaster walls, so the MiterMate is very appealing. It's got a lot of good reviews on how nice it is for cutting trim to fit non-square wall angles. However, the MiterMate has a pretty shallow depth of cut and among the trim pieces on that house are 6" baseboards - not to mention any framing and other miter work in the future. So will the circular and table saw + the non-sliding miter saw take care of my needs or will I really kick myself for not getting the slider?
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May 6, 2014 21:24
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I sliders are kind of nice to have but not required for doing trim work. I am a trim carpenter and use a 12" Dewalt miter saw. Works great. That miter mate looks like a head ache to me. If I were you I'd pick up a Makita or Dewalt miter saw. Both have 10" models for $199 at Home Depot. Also buy a new blade because the ones saws come with are usually crap.
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May 7, 2014 02:45
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The sliding compound miter will allow you to cross-cut wood that is wider than your blade's diameter. I was doing some quick reading yesterday that mentioned the range limits of each (assuming the same inch blade on either) but I can't find that page now. Generally speaking, the slider will cross-cut in one shot anything 2" or 3" wider than what the standard can do in one go. The only time I wish I had a slider was when I was doing baseboards for one of my bedrooms. It was the last bedroom, and I had already returned the slider I had back to my father-in-law, and I had picked up a floor model standard miter on discount. I was new to DIY poo poo and it took me a while to figure out that the lacking sliding component was the reason my baseboards were not being cut all the way through. I had to flip the cuts each time on my standard and the second cut almost never lined up with the first. Now that I don't do baseboards anymore, I don't miss it, but if I ever had a project in the future that has me cutting poo poo wider than a 2"x4" I'm going to be mean-mugging in my garage.
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May 7, 2014 13:37
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Just came across this article on redwoods vandalism: http://www.cnn.com/2014/05/06/us/california-redwoods-poaching/index.html?hpt=hp_t2 Didn't know it was a problem. I know a redwood table popped up recently and that the source material had been lying around for a some time, so this isn't a callout by any stretch, more of a heads-up on what's going on out in California.
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May 7, 2014 13:42
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Whats the best practice for cutting lengthwise dado on relatively narrow stock? I've got some 2.5" wide 3/4 boards that I want to dado half (technically a rabbet I suppose) of the width. So a 1.25" wide recess that goes to the edge. Can I do this with a dado stack and a push block, or is there a better method?
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May 7, 2014 17:33
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You could make two ripping cuts on a table saw, once to the depth and once to the width, so the cuts meet in the corner of your rabbet. You could also use a router with a rabbeting bit, if you can find one that will cut the right width (or one that has a set of different bearings for selecting your own width.) Or if you don't have a rabbeting bit with the right depth, you can use the same bit (with or without the bearing) and the fence on a router table to set the right width of cut.
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May 7, 2014 17:39
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Suave Fedora posted:Just came across this article on redwoods vandalism: That's pretty disappointing to see happening. We have a long history of forestry up in the PNW but poaching cases don't make the news very often. The most recent one I remember was a few years ago. A guy took just over 100 trees, including a 350 year old Doug Fir that was 6 feet in diameter. He had to pay back only $84k in restitution when the forest service estimated fair market value was over $200k.
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May 7, 2014 18:34
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Almost there. 2014-74 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr The stripper stuff and steel wool really make a mess. I used it on the spindle bits and I think I'll have to do it again to get into all the nooks.
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May 7, 2014 19:23
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Suave Fedora posted:Just came across this article on redwoods vandalism: when i was looking at properties to buy up in sonoma, the agent told me it wasnt unheard of for people to ask to go look at land they had no intention of buying and saw off any burls they find.
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May 8, 2014 05:53
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Bad Munki posted:You could make two ripping cuts on a table saw, once to the depth and once to the width, so the cuts meet in the corner of your rabbet. After some googling; a sacrificial auxillary fence on the right of the dado bit seems like the best bet for my use; but now I cant find the youtube; dang it. Another dumb question: I want to make a box joint jig which is no big deal; however it means I need to cut a key thats like 1/4" x 1/4" x 3". Any tips on how to cut this safely? Seems kinda sketchy just about every way I envision doing it in my head.
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May 8, 2014 13:27
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