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Cobalt60 posted:You going to install a Sonos inside that thing, or something? I have the original radio that came out of it. I had to replace some parts inside but it still works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDCvVBQyEkg
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May 20, 2014 13:03
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| # ? May 31, 2024 18:35 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:I liked that style though because it would allow me to plane the faces of boards, I could cut and joint and face plane my own 2x4 or even 2x6s all with one tool. It's a really attractive prospect. Having tried to do what you're suggesting on a contractor saw, the (lack of) lateral stiffness of the arbor adds in enough play that even with the backer fence, there's a bit of slop. Again, trying to get the whole thing dialed in is a pain in the rear end, too. Use a planer and planer sled if you don't want to go for hand tools.
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May 20, 2014 13:45
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Re: blades. Buy a combination blade (I use a 60 tooth) and a 24 flat tooth rip blade. You'll use the combo most but the rip will rip thick stock easier and give you a flat bottom for grooves and such.
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May 20, 2014 16:47
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So I'm building a coffee table, and I'd like to get the top of it level and smooth. But I know very little about hand planes; is there anything good in the roughly $50 or so price range for a simple project like this? Most of the ones I've found looking up online are easily over $100 which I can't justify at the moment, and the cheaper ones all tend to come with reviews about how they need tuning and extra work which I've never done, but suppose I could do if needed.
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May 21, 2014 03:46
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Sojenus posted:So I'm building a coffee table, and I'd like to get the top of it level and smooth. But I know very little about hand planes; is there anything good in the roughly $50 or so price range for a simple project like this? Most of the ones I've found looking up online are easily over $100 which I can't justify at the moment, and the cheaper ones all tend to come with reviews about how they need tuning and extra work which I've never done, but suppose I could do if needed. Buy a used Stanley Bailey #5 hand plane in good condition. I got mine off Craigslist for 30$. A #5 literally says "No 5" and "Stanley Bailey" on it, so they're easy to tell when you have one.
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May 21, 2014 03:54
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wormil posted:Re: blades. Any reason to go with a 60 tooth? I was going back and forth between these two blades last night (40 vs 50 teeth), the woodworker II was just too much money: http://www.amazon.com/D1040X-Diablo-10-Inch-40-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2X/ref=pd_cp_hi_0 http://www.amazon.com/D1050X-Diablo-50-tooth-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=pd_cp_hi_0 I read somewhere that 40 teeth where more effective than 50 teeth, it was also cheaper so I went with the 40 tooth one, even with shipping I saved 10 euros buying this from america ovr a local store, the local store version was also made for a 30mm arbor. I am somewhat unusual when I got a saw made to american specs, but hey with a 5/8" arbor I can get cheap blades from america and with a bushing I can use local blades too. Win win I like to think.
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May 21, 2014 07:06
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Mine is a 50 tooth, don't know why I wrote 60.
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May 21, 2014 09:41
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Sojenus posted:and the cheaper ones all tend to come with reviews about how they need tuning and extra work which I've never done, but suppose I could do if needed. It's not a hugely involved process. It's just making sure that the base is flat, because it's the reference edge and is the most important, and making sure the blade is sharp and the mechanism for retracting it works.
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May 21, 2014 11:44
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Sojenus posted:So I'm building a coffee table, and I'd like to get the top of it level and smooth. But I know very little about hand planes; is there anything good in the roughly $50 or so price range for a simple project like this? Most of the ones I've found looking up online are easily over $100 which I can't justify at the moment, and the cheaper ones all tend to come with reviews about how they need tuning and extra work which I've never done, but suppose I could do if needed. Flat and smooth are traditionally two operations done with different planes but you can do with one if it's pretty good to start. $50 is a low budget for a plane ready to use but it can be done if you shop around. A #4 smoother or #5 jack will do it. You'll be looking for a vintage Stanley that has already been tuned and sharpened, doesn't have to be pretty. I leveled and smoothed all my tables with a #4. Most important is that it's sharp, you keep it sharp, and the bottom is flat. Also learn about reading the grain which will save much heartache. For flattening you plane across or diagonally, for smoothing you plane with the grain. You should google it for a longer and better explanation. edit; grammar wormil fucked around with this message at 16:39 on May 21, 2014 |
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May 21, 2014 15:05
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Sojenus posted:So I'm building a coffee table, and I'd like to get the top of it level and smooth. But I know very little about hand planes; is there anything good in the roughly $50 or so price range for a simple project like this? Most of the ones I've found looking up online are easily over $100 which I can't justify at the moment, and the cheaper ones all tend to come with reviews about how they need tuning and extra work which I've never done, but suppose I could do if needed. Another option if you are just getting into woodworking would be to get your tabletop all glued up and take it to a shop/lumber yard and have them plane or drum sand it for a couple of dollars. Doesn't hurt to outsource the first few daunting tasks until you build up your confidence. The reason I say that is I saw hand plane restorations in this thread, went and bought a Stanley No. 5 plane from an antique store -- tried to sharpen it -- didn't do a great job -- gouged my nice project wood and now I have a $40 dull antique sitting in my garage. I understand the appeal/love of hand tools but there's a learning curve and you need sharpening stones/blocks/diamonds/whatever and a boatload of patience. Plus it helps me sleep at night knowing my tabletop is machined to a relatively perfect flatness.
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May 21, 2014 16:02
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I wouldn't underestimate the time and effort involved in tuning up hand planes if you haven't done it before, much less actually using them. It all requires practice, patience, and trial and error. Your first time using a hand plane is awfully similar to your first time in other activities... awkward and it usually doesn't end as expected. That being said, having the ability to do so makes a lot of tasks a lot quicker and easier and if you do much woodworking then I think everyone here would recommend you take the time to learn. There are a lot of good resources on restoring / tuning-up / using on youtube, check out Paul Sellers - https://www.youtube.com/user/PaulSellersWoodwork
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May 21, 2014 16:41
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I just bought a Stanley #4 off ebay yesterday. I've never tuned one before and have barely even used one. I'll let you know how it goes. 
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May 21, 2014 20:42
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oxbrain posted:I just bought a Stanley #4 off ebay yesterday. I've never tuned one before and have barely even used one. I'll let you know how it goes. You'll love it. I got a mystery sharpening stone from an estate sale for like a dollar and I made a _pile_ of shavings on cured beech the other day. There is nothing out there as satisfying as hand planing.
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May 21, 2014 21:01
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Uncle Enzo posted:You'll love it. I got a mystery sharpening stone from an estate sale for like a dollar and I made a _pile_ of shavings on cured beech the other day. There is nothing out there as satisfying as hand planing. So true, I find it quite relaxing making shavings with a hand plane.
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May 21, 2014 23:04
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I'm almost done this radio. I'm happy with how the finish turned out. I have some little details to take care of. And I need to get a matching set of knobs. 2014-82 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr
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May 22, 2014 01:35
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TomR posted:I'm almost done this radio. I'm happy with how the finish turned out. I have some little details to take care of. And I need to get a matching set of knobs. What did you use for replacement fabric?
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May 22, 2014 01:47
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My Grandmother sews so I just went to her house and found something I liked. It's just cotton.
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May 22, 2014 01:50
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So I got told by some guy who answered my thread on a local forum about the woodford saw that I shouldn't buy it because 5/8" arbors are too weak and he don't know how americans dare use dadoes and the like on those saws. And that it's a 1-phase engine, it's liable to burn itself out ripping 2" long boards he says, get a 3-phase or go home essentially. I got 3 phase power so sure I would like it, I know 3-phase superior but I figured a 3HP engine even if it's 1-phase, would have no problems with practically anything? Any comments on either of these things? Seems to me there are professional 3-phase american saws with 5HP or more that use the 5/8s arbor so it can't be that weak. Oh yeah he also offered to help me buy a "Griggio table saw/spindle moulder with a small sliding table", some old cast iron table saw, never heard of it, but he means the parts are in good condition, could get it for 600 euros + work to get it working should be around 1000. Which is what I'd pay for the woodford saw with shipping anyway. Anyone ever heard of this brand? Some old euro brand. 3-phase motor of some kind. Says the spindle moulder will kick the rear end of dado blades. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 15:38 on May 22, 2014 |
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May 22, 2014 15:32
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TomR posted:I'm almost done this radio. I'm happy with how the finish turned out. I have some little details to take care of. And I need to get a matching set of knobs. What grit sand paper did you use to strip the old finish? Did you use anything special to get into the corners?
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May 22, 2014 15:43
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His Divine Shadow posted:So I got told by some guy who answered my thread on a local forum about the woodford saw that I shouldn't buy it because 5/8" arbors are too weak and he don't know how americans dare use dadoes and the like on those saws. Honestly, that sounds like a bunch of "I have some tools I think are awesome, everyone ever should use tools with the specs I love most about my tools because reasons," particularly because he's raging against the specs that are most common, and people (often) do that because it makes them feel special to have a special tool. Basically, "If you don't have the superdoodadwigamajoo like I do, why do you even bother?  "
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 15:49 on May 22, 2014 |
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May 22, 2014 15:46
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jvick posted:What grit sand paper did you use to strip the old finish? Did you use anything special to get into the corners? I started with 120 but was careful to stop once I got through the finish. I used a can of antique finish remover that ate the rest of the finish off. I used steel wool for the grooves but then I had to use a stiff bristle brush to clean all of the steel wool bits out. I would just use the brush next time. I also washed the whole thing in thinner so it was clean and all the bits dried at the same time to get rid of the streaks where I wiped it down with the remover. I went over it with 400 after but that was overkill and I only used it because I had a bunch of it already.
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May 22, 2014 17:15
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oxbrain posted:I just bought a Stanley #4 off ebay yesterday. I've never tuned one before and have barely even used one. I'll let you know how it goes. After you work with that you're going to want more planes.
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May 23, 2014 02:45
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captainblastum posted:After you work with that you're going to want more planes. Most definitely. I've got a handful of smaller projects, but I want to make a real work bench and some tables so I'll want a larger plane for that. I just got it in the mail, couldn't resist trying it out. Not bad for $32+shipping.   e: good god the lighting in my garage is crap.
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May 23, 2014 05:15
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Bad Munki posted:Honestly, that sounds like a bunch of "I have some tools I think are awesome, everyone ever should use tools with the specs I love most about my tools because reasons," particularly because he's raging against the specs that are most common, and people (often) do that because it makes them feel special to have a special tool. Basically, "If you don't have the superdoodadwigamajoo like I do, why do you even bother? Well he says I should buy used old quality and not new stuff and save money. I guess it's true but I have tried (without luck) to find stuff like that. I am spending a lot of money for a contractor saw like this (1100e when shipping and currency conversion is factored in): 
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May 23, 2014 09:10
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Well I put the TS on hold, I sorta feel I should try a bit harder at the used market. Same guy linked me to this saw, which interestingly is only a few kilometers away from me: 590 euros, Steton SC 400, i.e. it takes a 400mm blade maximum, not sure if that's a good or bad thing, 5.5kw 3-phase engine. Also a used Bosch GOF 1300 ACE with router table for 170 euros, sounds good?  
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May 23, 2014 15:11
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May 23, 2014 15:48
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Matthias 
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May 23, 2014 17:35
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Since, I'm interested in this for woodworking, I figured I'd ask here as well as the tools thread. Is this a reasonable price for this bandsaw? http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/tls/4480165016.html I'm thinking it's the Delta 28-276. Mostly, I'm looking to be able to cut some curves and make bandsaw boxes, and I think that will fit the bill.
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May 23, 2014 18:17
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His Divine Shadow posted:Well I put the TS on hold, I sorta feel I should try a bit harder at the used market. Same guy linked me to this saw, which interestingly is only a few kilometers away from me: A 400mm blade is like 16 inches, which is a mighty big blade indeed. I'd check it out, especially since it's like half what you were looking at paying. That router + table looks pretty nice too, does it come with any bits?
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May 23, 2014 18:58
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Someone pointed out the table in question lacks slots for mitre gague. no slot on the right side of the blade either. The model does use some kind of sliding table but I am not sure one is included here, the ones I've seen pictured are far too large to fit in my garage anyway. I also found out it weighs like half a metric ton. Now I am somewhat disappointed it lacks slots because a big part of what I really been looking forward to is building sleds and jigs, might be hard here, unless it'd be worth milling slots into the top, no idea what that'd cost though.
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May 23, 2014 19:22
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Khelmar posted:Since, I'm interested in this for woodworking, I figured I'd ask here as well as the tools thread. Id say that is a good price. Is that 14"? If you get him down to $200-225 it'd be a great deal. But regardless I'd probably buy it. 14" deltas go for about $350-400 used around here.
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May 24, 2014 04:30
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5 drat hours.   -> and this  ->  At some point someone took a buffing wheel to this thing. My guess is the ebay seller was trying to make it look pretty. It cuts pretty well, but the blade needs more work. I don't think I got that dip all the way out.
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May 24, 2014 06:31
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Continuing my sperging on saws I found this, 4kw (5.4hp) motor, 12" blade, sliding table, slots both sides of saw, 470lbs, not sure if it includes the sliding table in that or not. 1000 euros for this one. New price for the modern analoge (4020) with sliding table is 3300 euro.
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May 26, 2014 16:29
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Sigh. I'd love something like that but it would take up literally all of my available space. I spent the afternoon finishing off a small ash box for cards for my upcoming nuptials, which seems to have gone reasonably well all told - I started it out at woodworking class, and in ten hours (!) didn't finish it. Not impressed with the class, particularly, but the box is nice. Still need to plane all the ends of the dovetails flush, generally sand and finish, and sort out the top. It's been good fun. Currently waiting for the glue to dry on my makeshift shooting board.
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May 26, 2014 17:31
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Yeah space is a concern with the sliding table, but the other extension table can be folded down and since I plan to put everything on mobile bases like the ones shown by Wandel, I can move it into a corner to reduce its footprint. I plan to put the same kind of bases or just plain castors on every other machine and work table.
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May 26, 2014 17:54
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Timber framing place I work at has a Jet table saw and a Delta band saw sitting gathering inches of sawdust way off in a forgotten corner of the shop. 
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May 26, 2014 23:15
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Fog Tripper posted:Timber framing place I work at has a Jet table saw and a Delta band saw sitting gathering inches of sawdust way off in a forgotten corner of the shop. Offer to buy them. You know make room for work stuff.
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May 27, 2014 04:50
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His Divine Shadow posted:Continuing my sperging on saws I found this, 4kw (5.4hp) motor, 12" blade, sliding table, slots both sides of saw, 470lbs, not sure if it includes the sliding table in that or not. That's still a lot of $$ for that saw. I think you're doing the right thing looking at used, maybe slightly non-coveted saws, as the prices should drop tremendously. I used a Robland X-31 for years, and its sliding table ran on two rails, and was STILL a bitch to adjust. One rail would be a nightmare, if you want real accuracy. I've also generally hated sliders that don't go right up against the blade, or at least within an inch or so. Most of what makes sliding tables AMAZING is their ability to do fine work, if fettled properly. Take away reliable adjustments and small-piece capability and I fall out of love quickly...
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May 27, 2014 05:37
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A sliding table is something I can do without to be honest, but it came with it, if I don't like it I can put it away and use it when it might suit me, maybe for ripping timber. I think I'd rather make a small mobile bench (same size as the right extension table) in the same height as the table saw that I can bring to the side or back of the table saw depending on where I want the support, then just make a big cross cutting sled that runs in the slot. What I like about this saw is the 3-phase 5.4hp motor, 12" blade size and slots on both sides of the blade. The slot thing is not easy to find in older european saws, they tend to have one slot on the left only and the fence also only moves on the right side of the blade. I've read something about these older saws being able to take dado blades too. This fence can get to both side of the blade if I want to, the fence looks nice too, might not be the best but I wonder if simply welding an angled support on its back might not remove all possible play. EDIT: Now I also found this  German model, 1976, Rapid PK-100, 1100 euros, might offer 900 euros:
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 14:03 on May 27, 2014 |
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May 27, 2014 06:38
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| # ? May 31, 2024 18:35 |
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Hello woodworking thread! I haven't been here in a while, since my last project burnt me out for a good month or two. My last project was an engagement ring and box for my now-fiancée:    It's curly maple, purpleheart and crushed malachite. A bunch more pictures of the build process can be found here: http://imgur.com/a/8KJMY
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May 27, 2014 14:09
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