|
thespaceinvader posted:I didn't think I would, to the extent that it really bothered me in woodworking class when the tutor was saying people should just enjoy making shavings... but then I got a good quality plane, and changed my mind. It really is kind of relaxing, and very satisfying to get a good end product out of it. Yea, a properly tuned plane makes every bit of difference, but that pretty much goes for hand tools in general. Planing for the sake of planing also allows you to really dial them in and figure out the best technique for each.. Also wax. Throw some beeswax on the sole, makes such a difference even on an otherwise perfectly setup plane.  friction
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 20:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 05:33 |
|
|
Stultus Maximus posted:Visit your father more often? Cpt.Wacky posted:With a small workbench and some handtools you could be making dovetail boxes or other small furniture stuff. Or get a mini lathe and start turning pens. Paul Sellers' youtube channel is a good place to start if that sounds interesting.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 20:40
|
|
|
bimmian posted:I also found this, which seems like an awesome idea for a small shop. All that t-track makes it a little pricey, but it would be so handy. Might be my next project. Is there no top surface to the bench under that sheet? It looks like the guy is cutting into his workbench 
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 21:01
|
|
|
Looks like he's got some spoilboard underneath the workpiece. Or maybe the top IS just intentionally-replaceable spoilboard.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 21:03
|
|
|
I thought you would make cuts in the "floating" area between the outside benches and the central one, like a more rigid sawhorse. But yeah, maybe a clean cut is needed on both sides.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 21:24
|
|
|
Stultus Maximus posted:is there any benefit to running a 240v circuit for the saw? The only direct benefit is that you will get less voltage drop when you load the motor at start-up and under heavy cutting. This is better for the life of the motor, (which you'll never notice), doesn't draw as hard, which will keep you from overloading the circuit, (which you probably also won't notice), and probably, maybe will increase performance a bit. If you're running a dedicated line for the saw (everyone should), it's just as easy to make it 240v, so do it. If you're using existing circuits, or have to share with other machines, it'll be ok with 120v. Comatoast posted:You can step up another notch from 1-phase 240V to 3-phase 240V. The motors get even more robust and the amperage requirements go down again. You're only going to find 3-phase power in a big city industrial area though. Why not make/buy an RPC for the large machines, or get a VFD for anything that needs variable speed? We ran everything from an (electrically) unbalanced idler motor for a while, and while I'm sure it wasn't the ideal situation for the motors, it ran everything we needed. A balanced setup would be almost perfect from the motor's point of view.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 23:20
|
|
|
I need to make a box to store a 30 foot tent; it needs to be 7 feet long and maybe 2.5-3 feet tall and wide. I think I might attach some wheels on one end so I can roll it around and a hinged top. Can anyone point me to some general plans that will be strong enough, but not too heavy. I have most basic tools table saw, router, nailer.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 00:43
|
|
|
1: I'm trying to follow this: http://www.calredwood.org/pdf/Projects/Picnic+Table.pdf Stuck on step 3: a) that gives me a 26" span, not a 28" span apparently. Easy enough to fix: went up to 35" instead of 33 3/16 and it was fine. b) Other problem is trying to cut the half lap. I've only got a miter saw and a table saw. I don't think I'd be able to do it on my table saw. Trying to figure out the angled cut (especially given the length of the piece, where the cut is on the piece, and my table saw itself) seems like it'd be too difficult for me. I can't really cut a bunch of kerfs with the miter saw to make the half lap because the depth setter won't stay through a cut, which means that I wind up cutting too deep. Circular saw should do the trick, no? Or is there something I could do with what I have? I thought about instead of doing a half lap just sticking each leg on opposite sides of the cleat, then joining the bottoms of the legs with a trapezoidal piece in between (so the cleat would be sandwiched on the top, and a brace sandwiched on the bottom), but I don't think it'd look good. 2: I'm having this problem with my miter saw: https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/power-tools/power-tool-discussion-forum/24497-problem-with-guard-adjustment-on-compound-sliding-miter-saw How bad of an idea is it to remove the guard?
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2014 03:29
|
|
|
WhiskeyJuvenile posted:I've only got a miter saw and a table saw...Circular saw should do the trick, no? Can't comment on the rest, but if you're thinking of getting a new power tool, you really should prioritize a router at this stage. It'd be able to do your half-laps for you (albeit a bit tediously) and it's just generally a good tool to have. More expensive than a circular saw, granted.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2014 05:06
|
|
|
WhiskeyJuvenile posted:I don't think I'd be able to do it on my table saw. Trying to figure out the angled cut (especially given the length of the piece, where the cut is on the piece, and my table saw itself) seems like it'd be too difficult for me. I think it's easier to make the half laps first, temporarily fasten each leg together and use a straightedge to mark where you will cut the top and bottom. The table will be level even if the half lap angles are a little off. Bevel squares are your secret weapon here.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2014 08:25
|
|
|
I just wound up buying a circular saw, because at least I can set a depth on that, and it works fine.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2014 03:57
|
|
|
WhiskeyJuvenile posted:I just wound up buying a circular saw, because at least I can set a depth on that, and it works fine. A router is much more versatile, especially considering you already have a table saw. Unless it's a fixed blade table saw of course.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2014 06:16
|
|
|
Installed kitchen counters and cabinets this weekend. Or that is to say, I assembled them and then I helped lift and stuff while my brother in law who is an actual carpenter and has actually worked in this field, put up the cabinets and sinks and showed us (me & my dad) how it's done. Goddamn I am lucky I didn't try this myself, I would have gotten everything skewed one way or another and ended up with a horrible kitchen. Also found a legit use for my new table saw when we had to rip some of the material that came with because it wasn't all pre-cut to the right sizes, so guess it was a lucky thing I had it, or we couldn't have assembled the kitchen and would have had to just gone home. Right now I am cutting roof coves (crown moldings?) and I borrowed my dad's sliding mitre box, I guess you could use the TS but I think it'd be a pain. It's a real mind twister at first to get the geometry right. The first night that they delivered the mitre box my parents where there and tried cutting them and it got pretty frustrating since they hadn't done it since they built. Eventually they just left and let me figure out the angles and stuff on my own, I work best on my own. Some googling showed how to hold the moldings and after I'd bought a cross cutting blade I made some templates and it seems to work real nice. I do think I will have to make a jig though as I am not gettig them as nice as I want to, not entirely helpful when the walls aren't always truly square either.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2014 06:38
|
|
|
WhiskeyJuvenile posted:1: I'm trying to follow this: http://www.calredwood.org/pdf/Projects/Picnic+Table.pdf It's not too hard to to with a chisel and/or a handsaw. Might take a couple of hours, if you're not used to using them...
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2014 06:47
|
|
|
Frogmanv2 posted:A router is much more versatile, especially considering you already have a table saw. It's a really, really lovely table saw that vibrates.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2014 11:49
|
|
|
WhiskeyJuvenile posted:It's a really, really lovely table saw that vibrates. Ahh, fair call. Can you try adding some ballast to it? I know with pressed steel legged lathes bags of cheap concrete are added to weigh them down a bit. Still won't fix the shifty saw, but might make it a bit more usable.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2014 12:48
|
|
|
Started work on a small table saw sled last night, I laminated two layers of surplus MDF ceiling (got shitloads) to make it. Cut a dado and fitted a runner, which in retrospect I should have made from something other than MDF. Not sure what I ought to do with the runner now, replace with a hardwood one (don't got any) or perhaps just seal it up (polyurethane, shellac, BLO and wax are all suggestions I've read about). Did get some burning at points but I put this down more to mistakes on my part when cutting, there's an element of skill, not just theory, to using a table saw I realize. Also loving dust argh it's insane.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2014 05:28
|
|
|
I wouldn't worry about, just wax the runner and sled bottom, you'll probably make more sleds in the future.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2014 07:09
|
|
|
Hi woodgoons. I'm about to embark on this bookcase-building project: http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/woodworking/4268525 However, my supply of power tools is not what it should be. I've picked up a router and a biscuit joiner, and I'm looking at picking up a miter saw so I can cut boards to the lengths I need. (I'm hoping I can depend on Home Depot Guy to cut the wood to width for me.) Is there anything else I should consider getting?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2014 15:48
|
|
|
Selachian posted:Hi woodgoons. I'm about to embark on this bookcase-building project: Don't count on Home Depot Guy. They'll give their best whack at it, but they won't take the time to carefully measure down to the sixteenth of an inch, so all of your board dimensions will be subtly off. And since you mentioned Home Depot, don't buy wood from them if you can avoid it. Find a proper lumberyard. Home Depot wood is either extremely expensive (their S4S hardwood boards) or extremely lovely (their pine boards). You definitely need a saw. Miter saw or circular saw is good; anything where you don't need to move the shelf boards through the saw, basically. You'll probably want some kind of jig for drilling shelf peg holes so that you can adjust the shelves (the one I linked is just one of many; I've used it once and it seemed to work well enough). There's also several general woodworking tools that frequently come in handy (e.g. thickness planer, random orbit sander, block plane), but you won't necessarily need them for this project.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2014 15:54
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Don't count on Home Depot Guy. They'll give their best whack at it, but they won't take the time to carefully measure down to the sixteenth of an inch, so all of your board dimensions will be subtly off. And since you mentioned Home Depot, don't buy wood from them if you can avoid it. Find a proper lumberyard. Home Depot wood is either extremely expensive (their S4S hardwood boards) or extremely lovely (their pine boards). I did call a lumberyard first and explained I was making bookcases and asked if they cut wood to size, and they said "For that kind of work we usually recommend these guys" and gave me the name of a local cabinetmaker. Said cabinetmaker has spent a week and a half not answering his phone and not returning messages. So I'm back to cutting it myself. I'm planning on fixed shelves. It shouldn't be an issue; I may be a novice woodworker but I know books.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2014 17:31
|
|
|
Check with machinist and sign shops. They both usually have cnc machines that can cut any crazy shape you like, along with perfectly aligned pin holes to hold the shelves. A sign shop will probably have a table saw too, which would likely be cheaper.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2014 20:15
|
|
|
If this is purely a width thing, when you buy your lumber from the lumberyard (seriously, go there for your lumber unless your local big box or Woodcraft/Rockler has a sale), also buy a nice straight piece of 2 x 2 oak and a sheet of hardboard, and make a circular saw guide jig like one seen here: http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/4283497 If the issue is more that you can't fit the lumber in the car, here's a really dumb suggestion: battery powered circular saw and a couple sawhorses. Throw tools in car, buy wood at lumber yard, cut wood to size, throw in car. The hardwood lumber guys near me don't deliver for less than a fortune and won't do cuts, but they said they don't really give a poo poo if I cut stuff in the parking lot. Haven't taken them up on it yet, but the time is coming. Alternately, I keep telling the local lumberyard with free delivery to start stocking nicer ply.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2014 03:06
|
|
|
If anyone here lives around Vancouver, Canada you might want to check out this sale in a couple of weeks: http://www.leevalley.com/en/home/page.aspx?p=71946 For some reason Lee Valley Tools has a huge collection of (mostly) wooden hand planes and is selling off over 1000 of them? Gonna see if I can get some cheap planes to screw around with if I remember to head over there on the 19th.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2014 03:31
|
|
|
Tim Thomas posted:If this is purely a width thing, when you buy your lumber from the lumberyard (seriously, go there for your lumber unless your local big box or Woodcraft/Rockler has a sale), also buy a nice straight piece of 2 x 2 oak and a sheet of hardboard, and make a circular saw guide jig like one seen here: http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/4283497 At this point, yeah, it's width that concerns me. I don't think it'll be too much trouble to cut for length with careful measuring and a miter saw to keep everything steady, but I've never handled a circular or table saw and I don't trust my ability to make clean cuts down a large sheet of plywood (especially while keeping my fingers attached). Thanks for the suggestion -- it does look helpful.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2014 16:22
|
|
|
Hope this is fine to ask here but I was looking at some bedroom furniture today on CL and was wondering how low I should try to barter for these pieces: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/fuo/4539791551.html http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/fuo/4527750437.html Or not at all?
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2014 16:39
|
|
|
Mede a zero clearance from a piece of MDF but when I raised the blade through it, the remaining bit on the right side of the blade was extremely thin and flexed and then it was just gone. So I got a not quite zero clearance insert now, less open than the one that came with the saw at least. Wondering if something else, like plywood would be better suited, thinking with that, the strip on the right side would have been more sturdy.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2014 19:03
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:Mede a zero clearance from a piece of MDF but when I raised the blade through it, the remaining bit on the right side of the blade was extremely thin and flexed and then it was just gone. So I got a not quite zero clearance insert now, less open than the one that came with the saw at least. Wondering if something else, like plywood would be better suited, thinking with that, the strip on the right side would have been more sturdy. Get a cheap plastic cutting board from Wal-Mart or somewhere. The plastic they are made out of is nice for jigs and stuff like that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2014 22:57
|
|
|
Shaocaholica posted:Hope this is fine to ask here but I was looking at some bedroom furniture today on CL and was wondering how low I should try to barter for these pieces: I can't be positive, but I'm pretty sure that first one isn't walnut. If it is, that's the palest walnut I've ever seen. Not to say it isn't made out of good wood and worth the price, I just really have my doubts that is walnut. It looks more like cherry to me. I haven't priced lumber in a long time, but cherry was a bit more expensive than walnut 10 years ago at my local lumberyard. I'm a bit thrown off by the grain of the top drawer on the last picture. That isn't cherry or walnut. There was a bed that was for sale on a local buy/sell facebook group. The description was "handcrafted oak bed frame", but it was clearly construction grade SPF (pine) with zero joinery. It was just held together with screws. I don't even know what you would call a joint that is just two boards at 90 degrees screwed together. Technically, yes, it was handcrafted in the sense that it didn't come from a furniture store. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jul 6, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 01:12
|
|
|
Squibbles posted:If anyone here lives around Vancouver, Canada you might want to check out this sale in a couple of weeks: http://www.leevalley.com/en/home/page.aspx?p=71946 Cool! Thanks..the prices on craigslist for even crappy ones are silly, so I'll see if I can pick up a few there.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 02:59
|
|
|
My guess is that both dressers are elm. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 04:57
|
|
|
I ended up passing on both pieces. Fit and finish just not worth the asking price and even if I haggled down to 1/3of what the guy was asking I don't think I could live with the roughness of the joinery.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 07:34
|
|
|
Figured that this would be a good place to ask; my granddad saw it at a house he was staying at, and figured that there had to be plans for it on the internet. I took a picture assuming that plans for a symmetrical pendant lamp would be easy to find, but haven't had any luck. If anybody has any leads, I'd really appreciate it. edit: Plans or a kit- he has all the tools, but his eyes are fading so he might not be 100% up for detail work.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 16:38
|
|
|
Immanentized posted:Figured that this would be a good place to ask; my granddad saw it at a house he was staying at, and figured that there had to be plans for it on the internet. I took a picture assuming that plans for a symmetrical pendant lamp would be easy to find, but haven't had any luck. If anybody has any leads, I'd really appreciate it. You could trace it using vector software like Inkscape and enlarge it to whatever you need.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2014 17:03
|
|
|
Looks like it's made from four sheets of plywood that are held together by at least one small biscuit (look at the narrow section a bit above the opening). So basically you just stack four sheets of (probably 1/4") plywood on top of each other, cut out whatever pattern you want with a bandsaw or maybe a scrollsaw, put a couple slots in for biscuits, and you're good to go. You could also do just two sheets at a time and use different patterns for the two pairs; this'd make it a bit easier to handle since you wouldn't have to maneuver a four-stack of plywood through your saw. The photo shows kind of a poo poo job putting the light socket in, and it's not clear how the weight is supported (is it hanging from the Romex?), but those are easily the kinds of things you could fix yourself. There's also the possibility that these were cut out with a laser-cutting tool, but it's nothing that can't be duplicated with more traditional tools.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2014 00:02
|
|
|
Thanks to the both of you for those tips!
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2014 04:17
|
|
|
Been working on the table saw this weekend, and now I got vacation so I got even more time to get some work done! Cleaned off most of the rust and other stuff that had formed deposits with a scraper, then I used autosol and aluminum foil to scrub the top and polish it, didn't come out all mirror shiny because I didn't get rid of all the patina, guess I would have to sand the whole top to get it like that but I don't care. I think this looks nice. Finished with some paste wax and that really helped make everything slippery: Also polished up the controls a little bit  Got the guard mounted now too, it's very useful and I can just shobve it out of the way when I can't use it.  I was thinking about sealing the insert I made but I didn't find any varnish like what that Wandel guy used in his videos so I used spray paint:  Also tried using my stanley bailey no.3 that I got, there's probably an easy answer to this but everytime I adjust the blade so it'll cut more aggressively, it's like it gets shoved back into the body of the plane and the end result is a pretty poor contact with the wooden surface. Managed to make some shavings though: 
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2014 19:01
|
|
|
I have a really hard time believing your blade is supposed to sit that close to the edge of the throat. Are you sure you're not missing a washer in there that would offset it about, oh, a quarter inch?
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2014 19:04
|
|
|
Well it came ready to use in this configuration from whatever woodworking company it was that went bankrupt and then into my hands. There are two thick blade stabilizers on each side of the blade, I am not sure if they are aftermarket add-ons or not, but with them mounted the nut has almost no room left. Without the stabilizer though the blade would be even further right and that would case it to bite into the side of the opening so I guess it might have come from factory. Perhaps a washer could fit though. e: found pic of arbor, dunno if that helps any: 
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Jul 7, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2014 19:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 05:33 |
|
|
Are the motor mounts adjustable? That is, are they oversized to allow some lateral movement? I'm with bad munki, no way the blade should sit that close, seems a bit dangerous. In regards to the #3, are you saying that the frog moves? Regardless, sounds like something isn't tightened down. e: If the frog were loose you likely wouldn't make any shavings due to the chatter, so I would guess that your lever cap / cap screw are not tightened down properly. bimmian fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Jul 7, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2014 19:33
|
|