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Sylink posted:What if you want to do something more like this ? I'm not going to say that you can't do that, bit you will have to deal with a lot wood movement. Personally i think you'd be better off with veneer on a stable MDF core if you want a pattern than complex. It wiĺl last a lot longer.
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Sep 23, 2014 07:07
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Ok, so I guess I'm headed down the dark path of inlays. Anyone have any good resources on inlaying? The basic's seem obvious but more guidelines on ideal thickness etc would be excellent.
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Sep 23, 2014 15:15
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wormil posted:You're on the outskirts of my knowledge level but I believe you will be fine except for the center circle which will want to go oval. You'd want quartersawn for sure. It looks like that's actually endgrain in that photo -- I can see a bunch of parallel lines that look like the divisions between 4/4 boards in a built-up endgrain block.
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Sep 23, 2014 16:04
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:It looks like that's actually endgrain in that photo -- I can see a bunch of parallel lines that look like the divisions between 4/4 boards in a built-up endgrain block. Doesn't look like it to me but I don't see that as beneficial. Endgrain will still move across the growth rings. Solid wood is a tough way to go for that pattern. Segmented turners run into this problem when they try to use circles in the bottom of their bowls. Sylink posted:Ok, so I guess I'm headed down the dark path of inlays. Anyone have any good resources on inlaying? The basic's seem obvious but more guidelines on ideal thickness etc would be excellent. When I'm in doubt I tend to stick with traditional methods, which would be marquetry, basically cutting the pattern from veneer then assembling it. Tommy MacDonald has done episodes on it, and I want to say Roy Underhill has done episodes on it but that may have been inlay, not sure. There are youtube videos and web articles on marquetry. And a million books. But I don't have a specific recommendation.
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Sep 23, 2014 17:01
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wormil posted:Segmented turners run into this problem when they try to use circles in the bottom of their bowls. What is the usual solution in that case? Just use a really stable wood for the bottom?
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Sep 23, 2014 18:02
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Bad Munki posted:What is the usual solution in that case? Just use a really stable wood for the bottom? One of our local turners uses a floating disc, basically like a frame and panel. I've seen other solutions but his is probably the most sure. I think most just avoid the situation by not having segments at the bottom.
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Sep 23, 2014 20:37
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Does anyone live in the Seattle area and know where to buy 4'x8' sheets of walnut plywood? I though Woodcraft might carry it but they apparently don't. I don't actually live in Seattle but it seems like most of the places here on the Olympic Peninsula only carry framing lumber.
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Sep 24, 2014 02:05
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Crosscut Hardwoods at 4100 1st Ave S. in Sodo is always a good bet, and I'm pretty sure they carry walnut ply normally. Decent prices in general, and a lot of stuff you just can't get anywhere else.
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Sep 24, 2014 06:38
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Good to know. I would have guessed Dunn Lumber, but figured there had to be other options.
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Sep 24, 2014 06:58
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The Dreamer posted:Does anyone live in the Seattle area and know where to buy 4'x8' sheets of walnut plywood? I though Woodcraft might carry it but they apparently don't. I don't actually live in Seattle but it seems like most of the places here on the Olympic Peninsula only carry framing lumber. I never saw any plywood at Edensaw in Port Townsend but they might have some ideas on sourcing it. If you haven't been there before you should check it out. The prices are a little high, the customer service is a bit lacking if you don't look like a "pro" but they have all kinds of hardwood boards, slabs, burls, etc.
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Sep 24, 2014 15:15
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stabbington posted:Crosscut Hardwoods at 4100 1st Ave S. in Sodo is always a good bet, and I'm pretty sure they carry walnut ply normally. Decent prices in general, and a lot of stuff you just can't get anywhere else. Thanks. I'll give these guys a look the next time I head over to Seattle. Cpt.Wacky posted:I never saw any plywood at Edensaw in Port Townsend but they might have some ideas on sourcing it. If you haven't been there before you should check it out. The prices are a little high, the customer service is a bit lacking if you don't look like a "pro" but they have all kinds of hardwood boards, slabs, burls, etc. I didn't know about Edensaw but looking at their website it does say they carry a bunch of different types of hardwood ply. Never having bought hardwood ply before, is $200 a reasonable price for a 3/4" 4'x8' sheet of Walnut ply?
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Sep 24, 2014 19:07
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stabbington posted:Crosscut Hardwoods at 4100 1st Ave S. in Sodo is always a good bet, and I'm pretty sure they carry walnut ply normally. Decent prices in general, and a lot of stuff you just can't get anywhere else. I just went down there for the first time a couple weekends ago and was pretty impressed. I'm still learning my way around all the hardwoods so it was a little overwhelming, but I'll definitely be going back when I need something specific. On another note, my current project: 
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Sep 25, 2014 02:52
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Now that's cool. I'd imagine they could be painted in all sorts of colors too, wooden shades, new trend?
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Sep 25, 2014 06:02
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His Divine Shadow posted:Now that's cool. I'd imagine they could be painted in all sorts of colors too, wooden shades, new trend? They've been around for awhile but most of the one's I've seen are just laser cut in a flat pattern, sometimes out of plywood even. I'm planning on giving it a darkish stain then polyurethaning the hell out of it. It was surprisingly easy to make these with just a bandsaw and belt sander plus alot of patience.
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Sep 25, 2014 06:11
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Going back a bit to that table -- if wood movement is such an issue, then why haven't the ~half-dozen end-grain cutting boards I've made had any issues with wood movement? I mean, they spend their lives in kitchens, which are not exactly the most stable environments in the world. And not a one has shown any sign of shifting.
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Sep 25, 2014 15:58
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Question about hardwood ply... I'm doing my main staircase in 3/4 solid red oak. I've milled my treads already but am still debating what to do with the risers. I've already decided that I want to stick with stain grade red oak, but this project is getting a little expensive and I'd have to buy lumber for 13 risers. I was nerding out at the hardwood store the other day though and noticed they had some good looking sheets red oak ply. Is there any reason why I shouldn't consider using this for the risers instead of solid lumber?
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Sep 25, 2014 18:19
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I'm no expert, but as far as I'm concerned there's no reason you couldn't make them out of construction-grade fir (or something similarly strong/cheap) with a veneer. I mean, if they needed to be refinished down the road then you'd run into trouble, but you'd run into the same trouble if you used plywood. Both plywood and a veneer would give you some leeway to work with but you'd have to be careful to avoid exposing the underlying material. Anyway, I don't think refinishing is likely to be a huge concern unless someone decides to staple carpet to the stairs, and then someone else decides to remove said carpet. Like happened to my own stairs. Fortunately my stairs were made back in the day when hardwoods were cheaper so they're all solid oak.
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Sep 25, 2014 18:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm no expert, but as far as I'm concerned there's no reason you couldn't make them out of construction-grade fir (or something similarly strong/cheap) with a veneer. I mean, if they needed to be refinished down the road then you'd run into trouble, but you'd run into the same trouble if you used plywood. Both plywood and a veneer would give you some leeway to work with but you'd have to be careful to avoid exposing the underlying material. We just bought the house so whatever we do we'll probably be living with for the next 20 years. I'd only be using ply for the riser, so as long as it aesthetically ok, then that's all that really matters.
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Sep 25, 2014 22:18
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Sointenly posted:I'd only be using ply for the riser, so as long as it aesthetically ok, then that's all that really matters. Using veneer plywood is pretty common, at least in southern California. We use it for risers, skirts, fascia, etc on almost every stain grade job we get for a couple reasons, cost being the main one. If a homebuilder wants to pay for solid stock then okay but plywood is considerably cheaper on the bill while accomplishing the same results aesthetically. It's a lot easier to shop since it's just a matter of ripping it to width with no sanding involved, though as pointed out the veneer is really thin so if you do have to sand a joint or bad spot avoid using an orbital sander and hit it lightly with some 120 by hand. Shoot me a pm if you have any questions, I've been doing stair work for a long time and could probably give you an answer for anything related to them.
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Sep 26, 2014 01:00
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Sointenly posted:Question about hardwood ply... It'll be fine. Almost all interior staircases are made this way. Ply wood is super strong-especially on edge- and risers are mostly for show anyway.. As long as your treads are solid and you're happy with the veneer, go for it.
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Sep 26, 2014 01:02
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I want to build an insert for my sliding glass door so I can install a dog door in it (because gently caress paying $150+ for a commercial version). My plan is to embed the dog door in three side-by-side pine boards, then mount the entire thing on some wheels so it'll fit into the sliding door's slot and be easily opened for human passage. It's the wheels that have me concerned; I'll need to somehow cut a pocket into the ends of two boards for them to fit into. Advice on how to do this? Should I just drop the end of the board onto a router bit, or use a drill to carve out the space and clean up with a chisel? I'm a bit worried about weakening the wood, since it's just 3/4" pine and I need to remove ~half of that to make room for the wheel. The wheels really need to be mounted in a pocket like this to avoid drafts -- the entire point of this project is to give my dog a way in and out that doesn't allow for tons of airflow (like just leaving the sliding door open does, which is what I'm doing right now).
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Sep 26, 2014 01:46
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Home depot here sells a variety of woods that look like they'd be really pretty to do woodworking stuff here, Redwood, Fir and of course Pine. Any reason I shouldnt use these? I am a mechanical engineer/cnc machinist but have done very little woodworking.
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Sep 26, 2014 02:37
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Nothing wrong with any of those woods. Pine is soft and splinters somewhat easily, and fir is really dense (which is why it's used for construction). Redwood is surprisingly light; I haven't worked with it much though. However, when it comes to pine especially, carefully check the boards for straightness. Home Depot and other big-box stores are notorious for selling really lovely boards. If you have a contractor store available (like Home Depot Pro), it may have higher-quality boards for the same price as what the standard store has, because they dump all their poo poo boards on people who don't know any better.
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Sep 26, 2014 02:41
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Going back a bit to that table -- if wood movement is such an issue, then why haven't the ~half-dozen end-grain cutting boards I've made had any issues with wood movement? I mean, they spend their lives in kitchens, which are not exactly the most stable environments in the world. And not a one has shown any sign of shifting. Woodworking adapted over centuries to allowing wood movement because it will always move and change shape even if those changes are very tiny. Those patterns are always (to my knowledge) done in veneer which tells me that doing it in solid wood is probably a bad idea. All directions of movement, in that design, contradict. The rays may be fine if done in quartersawn wood because the movement would mostly be up and down instead of across. But the center will be problematic because the circle will want to go oval with any change in humidity. If you skip the circle and have all points meet, the center will open and close with humidity. Table vs cutting board: very simple actually, the larger the area the larger the movement in response to moisture.
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Sep 26, 2014 03:00
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stabbington posted:Crosscut Hardwoods at 4100 1st Ave S. in Sodo is always a good bet, and I'm pretty sure they carry walnut ply normally. Decent prices in general, and a lot of stuff you just can't get anywhere else. Thanks, I've been going to limback since I used to live in Ballard but this is super close by and looks to have great stock.
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Sep 27, 2014 03:58
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I got Understanding Wood Finish by Bob Flexner today, this is quite comprehensive 
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Sep 27, 2014 16:43
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Sylink posted:I got Understanding Wood Finish by Bob Flexner today, this is quite comprehensive As a hobbyist it's taken good care of me. A good finishing book is essential in my opinion.
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Sep 27, 2014 17:40
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Sylink posted:I got Understanding Wood Finish by Bob Flexner today, this is quite comprehensive As a hobbyist it's taken good care of me. A good finishing book is essential in my opinion.
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Sep 27, 2014 17:40
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Edit, stupid phone
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Sep 27, 2014 17:40
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Picked up 100bd ft of cherry this evening. Several pieces are over 11" wide. This should last me for a winter of projects once the snow flies and I get confined to my garage. There's a bit more then 100 in the pic because I had a few scraps left over.
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Sep 30, 2014 01:01
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Can anyone recommend a smoothing plane for <$100 or should I just throw down for something like this http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-13...smoothing+plane
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Sep 30, 2014 22:14
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Sylink posted:Can anyone recommend a smoothing plane for <$100 or should I just throw down for something like this http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-13...smoothing+plane You could buy a restored and tuned vintage Stanley for under a $100.
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Sep 30, 2014 22:43
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Yeah I got a perfectly usable vintage No. 4 on ebay for like 40 bucks.
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Oct 1, 2014 00:32
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Over on woodnet.net there is a guy username tablesawtom. He sells restored stanley planes. Also, he runs a service where you can send him a plane and he'll flatten it. He is a retired machinist. Here is a link to his rig. I have 3 of his restored planes. They work amazingly well. http://www.tablesawtom.com/plane.htm
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Oct 1, 2014 01:17
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dcgrp posted:Over on woodnet.net there is a guy username tablesawtom. He sells restored stanley planes. Also, he runs a service where you can send him a plane and he'll flatten it. What would it take to get a crappy plane servicable after he treats it? I noticed he doesn't do some stuff, but I've been looking to get my plane redone so I can use it (was a hand me down) and I don't want to invest the time in doing whatever it takes, plus I hear it may be a crappy brand. Here's a picture. 
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Oct 1, 2014 02:02
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dhrusis posted:What would it take to get a crappy plane servicable after he treats it? I noticed he doesn't do some stuff, but I've been looking to get my plane redone so I can use it (was a hand me down) and I don't want to invest the time in doing whatever it takes, plus I hear it may be a crappy brand. Here's a picture. I'm not familiar with Fowler brand planes, probably a cheaper knock-off. I wouldn't bother tuning that up beyond the really basics. You could regrind the blade and turn it into a decent scrub plane though. The only step he's really doing is flattening the sole of the plane (and maybe the sides? but that doesn't matter much). You can do that on your own with a marble tile, a few sheets of wet dry sandpaper and some time. After that you need to adjust the frog and sharpen the blade. You might need to work on the handles a little if they're loose and the depth adjustment wheel/screw usually needs a little cleaning and oil. For plane brands I try to only get Stanley or Miller Falls. Record and Woden are also good UK brands, but pretty uncommon over here. I've heard good things in this thread about Union planes too.
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Oct 1, 2014 18:24
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What is a good babbys first chisel set to get? I am in the US (SF, NY) for a few weeks and was hoping to get something better/cheaper than I otherwise would be able to in Australia. Definitely don't mind spending more for something that will last. Granite Octopus fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Oct 3, 2014 |
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Oct 3, 2014 16:34
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I have a couple of Narex chisels and I enjoy them. They're priced nicely and do the job.
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Oct 3, 2014 21:27
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Granite Octopus posted:What is a good babbys first chisel set to get? I am in the US (SF, NY) for a few weeks and was hoping to get something better/cheaper than I otherwise would be able to in Australia. Chisels will last a very long time so don't be afraid to spend a little more. I don't have any specific recommendations since it's been over a decade since I've bought any. Stanley has some new lines out, the Baileys and Sweethearts, which I have heard good things about and are made in Sheffield. Narex gets mentioned here a lot but I know nothing about them. Two Cherries is another brand I here a lot of good things about.
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Oct 4, 2014 06:18
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I've been happy with the little Wood River (woodcraft brand) set I picked up earlier this year
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Oct 4, 2014 14:16
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