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Liquid Communism posted:I've used them to bend one hell of a lot of PVC for use in props and as a temporary building material.
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Sep 27, 2014 04:03
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Fo3 posted:I got a heat gun, I use it for nothing. Lighters are tough to use outside on a windy day. Depending on the angle, you can't always cup the flame like smokers do. Even if you get the lighter started, sometimes the wind will still blow all the heat away.
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Sep 27, 2014 18:40
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He might be talking about a jet lighter. That's basically what the butane iron is anyway, and the whole pitch for them is working in the wind. v v
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Sep 27, 2014 21:02
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Yeah sorry guys I didn't mean to start all this controversy! All I meant was I trust my conair more than harbour freight's brand and it was overkill for storm proofing windows.
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Sep 27, 2014 21:20
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Nitrox posted:Only scrubs buy 45 bends, real plumbers bend that section 40 all day long I always worry too much about making the pipe brittle to use heat-bent PVC in actual plumbing installs. :P Then again, I am nothing like an actual plumber.
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Sep 27, 2014 22:31
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I've used a heat gun to heat up and scrape off 50 year old sound proofing in a car. That was literally hell.
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Sep 27, 2014 23:24
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You went the wrong direction. Dry ice and a chisel to take off hard frozen chunks instead of heat gun and whatever you use to scrape up the slightly molten tar.
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Sep 27, 2014 23:56
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kastein posted:As for desoldering, I find that I only care about one half of the equation at any given time. Either the chip is good and I'm salvaging it, or the part is bad and I'm repairing the board. For the latter case I carefully nip all the pins off the body of the chip, leaving them soldered into the board, then desolder one at a time, for the former, I either just go full retard with a heatgun or even use a blowtorch (and plenty of ventilation, epoxy combustion byproducts are REALLY BAD FOR YOU.) As long as you melt the solder and pull the chip before the bottom of the chip gets melty poo poo stuck to it, you're probably fine. While this will work for through hole components, if you clip the leads of a surface mount part you will tend to peal the pads right off the board. The mechanical stress of the clipping action tends to be enough to overcome the peal strength of the dielectric. A rotary abrasive tool (dremel) can somtimes be used on SIOCs (0.05" pitch) but any finer pitches will certainly peal with the rotary tool. Any surface mount rework is best done with a heat gun or better yet a hot air pencil. I typically use a hot air gun and re-flow the section of the board I am working on. It is relatively easy to remove a surface mount part from a board and re-use it with the heat gun method. You only run into problems if there is too much moisture in the package and it popcorns. The trick is to add liquid flux to the re-work area before heating it. This makes it much easier to deal with. The steps I use are as follows: 1. Add flux to the IC I plan to remove 2. Apply heat gun until I can lift the part with tweezers 3. Clean part/board with flux remover 4. Add solder to each pad or squeegee a solder paste mask over the IC of interest 5. Add flux if solder paste not used 6. Place new/old part on board exactly over the pads 7. Heat gun the part until it flows 8. Let cool and clean with flux remover You will know when the part flows as it will tend to float in place and you can nudge it a bit with tweezers and it will just pop back via surface tension.
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Sep 28, 2014 04:48
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Yeah, sorry, I wasn't thinking of smt stuff when I wrote that. I swapped out a PQFP-100 (.5mm pitch) in 10 minutes at my desk with no magnification and a 1/16 chisel tip iron with zero pad damage a few weeks ago  I agree with drowning it with flux... typically I dump flux on, use a dental pick to carefully lever leads up one at a time as I melt the solder, make sure there are no bridges to pads, do that for every lead on 3 sides, then bend the part up away from the board and metal fatigue the remaining row of leads. Then more flux and solder braid to clean up the remaining solder and any broken-off leads. I only do this as I don't have a hot air pencil at work (yet) and am still in prototyping stage anyways. Surface tension is a godsend when it comes to getting 0402 and down SMTs to align nicely. Melt both sides at once aaaaand done.
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Sep 28, 2014 16:58
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Well, found out why my roof leaks. Previous owner nailed shingles to a tin roof. gently caress me. Half the roof is mostly right, due to insurance paying to replace it three years before we bought the place. Roofers attached OSB to the original shake boards. Not ideal, but maybe I can get a few more years out of that side before replacement. I can afford a loan for 4 grand more than I can afford one for 8 or 9.
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Sep 29, 2014 09:07
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kizudarake posted:Well, found out why my roof leaks. Previous owner nailed shingles to a tin roof. gently caress me. Why the gently caress would anyone think it was a sensible idea to pound nails into a metal roof without using any kind of waterproofing afterwards 
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Sep 29, 2014 12:08
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Kitfox88 posted:Why the gently caress would anyone think it was a sensible idea to pound nails into a metal roof without using any kind of waterproofing afterwards
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Sep 29, 2014 13:13
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There is a house by us that has just built a back deck, and the footing looks suspicious as hell. They have sunk some concrete posts/bases into the ground, but the actual beams look like they are just sitting on top of the concrete - aren't they supposed to be sunk into it or held in place with a brace or a metal sheathing or something? This past weekend they seem to have sprayed that expanding foam around the joint, which is part of what makes me wonder what the hell they're doing.
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Sep 29, 2014 15:07
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Ashcans posted:This past weekend they seem to have sprayed that expanding foam around the joint You can't inspect what you can't see!
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Sep 29, 2014 15:11
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There are concrete blocks that are cast with an indentation for a 4x4 or 2xwhatever to sit in without slipping off. Aside from just spraying it there to use it up, about the only reason I could see for foaming the bottom would be to keep water from getting between the concrete and the cut end of the pressure treated or cedar post sitting on the block. Doesn't really seem necessary, but maybe they're like me and just enjoy spray foaming things?
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Sep 29, 2014 15:36
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Ashcans posted:There is a house by us that has just built a back deck, and the footing looks suspicious as hell. They have sunk some concrete posts/bases into the ground, but the actual beams look like they are just sitting on top of the concrete - aren't they supposed to be sunk into it or held in place with a brace or a metal sheathing or something? This past weekend they seem to have sprayed that expanding foam around the joint, which is part of what makes me wonder what the hell they're doing. It's remotely possible that the concrete posts have anchor bolts sunk into them and the beams are bolted to the posts. I'm not saying it's likely, but it's possible.
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Sep 29, 2014 16:23
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I walk past the place on the way to the local playground with my kids, so maybe next time I'll stop to snap a couple pictures for this thread. I don't know anything about construction so maybe it is all fine and up to code, but it looks pretty wonky.
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Sep 29, 2014 16:39
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I don't really know anything about this, but I don't really see the harm in not anchoring the post to the concrete. The weight of the deck should keep it in place, with the ability to let things shift a bit if the ground settles later (or the wood expands or contracts).
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Sep 29, 2014 16:48
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I bought a house from a guy who was a bit of a recluse that fancied himself something of an artist. He took out his nice big living room window to put in a slider that most people would have installed in a bedroom.  I don't know where that original window went, but here is the hole it once filled.  Several quotes for replacing that came in at ~$3700 with installation, but I got a new one from the Re Store (a Habitat for Humanity venture that stocks lots of stuff, including windows that were ordered for someone else but they didn't want) for $932.  Now I just have to fill in that hole from shifting the window to the east. A hole that is slightly larger than it needed to be because I mismeasured/had some friends that were overly enthusiastic about knocking out my stucco.  Total time, eight hours. Would have been closer to six had the guy I needed to help me lift the thing not been sleeping off a night of heavy drinking.
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Sep 29, 2014 17:12
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Found on imgur: "Oops"
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Sep 29, 2014 17:53
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Collateral Damage posted:Found on imgur: Seriously, jeez. Who leaves the lid off the top of the toilet tank??
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Sep 29, 2014 17:57
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Easy fix, just cut a hole in the wall behind where the door is now, slap some plywood up over the old doorway.
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Sep 29, 2014 18:03
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Collateral Damage posted:Found on imgur: That's not too bad... Either pop the hinge pins out or just unscrew the hinges from the door frame, then maneuver the door around to the right way and put it back on. Plus, you'd better lock that door, otherwise someone is going to jam all of your toes when they come in.
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Sep 29, 2014 18:05
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Wonder what's on the other side to be forced to install the door to open that way.
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Sep 29, 2014 18:07
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That was my immediate thought. If you're competent enough to replace a toilet, wax ring and all, aren't you also smart enough to figure out how to remove a few hinge pins? I would've laughed, shrugged, and had it fixed in just a couple minutes.
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Sep 29, 2014 18:08
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kid sinister posted:Plus, you'd better lock that door, otherwise someone is going to jam all of your toes when they come in. Or, just sit backwards on the toilet like god intended.
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Sep 29, 2014 18:09
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xergm posted:That was my immediate thought. If you're competent enough to replace a toilet, wax ring and all, aren't you also smart enough to figure out how to remove a few hinge pins? I would've laughed, shrugged, and had it fixed in just a couple minutes. maybe it's some guy pranking his completely DIY-inept friend by pulling the pins then putting the door there on purpose.
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Sep 29, 2014 18:28
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The photo looks like it originally came from Reddit.Reddit Title posted:Fixing a toilet leak. I took 2 trips to Home Depot, worked with a hernia, had a pain in the rear end time putting the wax ring and screws on...only to install the toilet and forgetting about the door. I'm an idiot.
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Sep 29, 2014 20:32
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xergm posted:The photo looks like it originally came from Reddit. Could be from anywhere, there have been people making this mistake since indoor plumbing was invented.
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Sep 29, 2014 20:48
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ColHannibal posted:Could be from anywhere, there have been people making this mistake since indoor plumbing was invented. Well, google image search isn't finding it other places earlier.
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Sep 29, 2014 21:06
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Bad Munki posted:Easy fix, just cut a hole in the wall behind where the door is now, slap some plywood up over the old doorway. That's pretty impractical. Obvious solution is cut the bottom of the door off at toilet seat height, then frame in the bottom of the door jam to match. Done. Unless of course the ADA wants to be an rear end in a top hat about it.
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Sep 29, 2014 21:31
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Slugworth posted:That's pretty impractical. Obvious solution is cut the bottom of the door off at toilet seat height, then frame in the bottom of the door jam to match. Done. Unless of course the ADA wants to be an rear end in a top hat about it. Or just cut a toilet-shaped hole. 
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Sep 29, 2014 22:13
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Antifreeze Head posted:the Re Store (a Habitat for Humanity venture that stocks lots of stuff, including windows that were ordered for someone else but they didn't want) My man 
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Sep 30, 2014 00:15
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Slugworth posted:Not saying you are wrong, just curious about the mechanics here. Isn't the nailing strip on the shingle the waterproofing element? How does water penetrate through the shingles over a metal deck vs a plywood one? I'm not an expert, but this is how I think it works: Wood decks tend to seal around the nails, so that there's a hole just big enough for the nail, with no room around it. Water doesn't penetrate easily, so anything that would have worked through, runs off before it could. When the nail goes through the metal, there's more of a gap between the metal and nail, letting the water seep in more easily.
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Sep 30, 2014 11:29
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xergm posted:That was my immediate thought. If you're competent enough to replace a toilet, wax ring and all, aren't you also smart enough to figure out how to remove a few hinge pins? I would've laughed, shrugged, and had it fixed in just a couple minutes. What on earth makes you think the person who took this picture thinks the problem is unsolvable? He probably just realized what he'd done, laughed, took the picture, then fixed it.
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Sep 30, 2014 11:49
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kizudarake posted:I'm not an expert, but this is how I think it works: Wood decks tend to seal around the nails, so that there's a hole just big enough for the nail, with no room around it. Water doesn't penetrate easily, so anything that would have worked through, runs off before it could. When the nail goes through the metal, there's more of a gap between the metal and nail, letting the water seep in more easily. If the water gets to the wood, your roof has failed. Period. End of story. The whole point of how an asphalt roof works is that every shingle has another one above it across its top half to keep water from getting under it. The nails are always put in the top half and always in certain spots so that the tabs of the next course of shingles cover them. There is some sealing (the sealing strip you mentioned) but it's mostly there to keep windblown rain penetration to a minimum and to keep the shingles from flapping up in a strong gale. Shingles are put on from the lowest point of a roof working upward, one row at a time, so that they overlap and each one protects the top of the one below it. Vertical joints between the ends of shingle strips must be carefully placed (usually staggered like brickwork) so that they don't line up with the joint in the course below them. When you get to the peak, you use ridge and hip cap shingles to make an upside down V cap over the peak so that it sheds water down over the outsides of the top courses of shingles on each side instead of letting water get under them. The reason you can't use asphalt shingles on too shallow a roof slope is that it makes it much harder to keep water from going back up under the shingles via wind/capillary action/ice damming - there's no true waterproof seal between each course, just the little asphalt/tar sealing strip that like I said is mostly there just to keep the shingles from flapping up in the wind. My guess is that the guy with the metal roof that's been shingled over has issues because either the nails won't hold in the metal (so they're pulling out and the shingles are falling off) or the idiot that did it didn't go all the way to the top, so water is running down the metal roof and then under the asphalt shingles from the top and therefore they've solved no problems and added a whole bunch more nail holes to make things worse.
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Sep 30, 2014 15:26
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Or the funniest option: they shingled up one side, over the top, and right down the other side. Does the roof only leak on one side of the house? 
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Sep 30, 2014 17:52
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kastein posted:My guess is that the guy with the metal roof that's been shingled over has issues because either the nails won't hold in the metal (so they're pulling out and the shingles are falling off) or the idiot that did it didn't go all the way to the top, so water is running down the metal roof and then under the asphalt shingles from the top and therefore they've solved no problems and added a whole bunch more nail holes to make things worse.
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Sep 30, 2014 18:32
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Did a bit of wiring work in my kitchen last week. What prompted this was two outlets. One was loose, as in, moving independently of the wall, and things plugged into it tended to lose power when it pulled away from the wall suggesting loose wiring.  On investigation we can see that the wiring box thing has a screw sticking out if it which was not actually screwed into anything. That wood behind the outlet is too far back for that screw to reach. This also turned out to be a 20A circuit, with correct gauge wire, but with a 15 amp three-prong outlet. And, perhaps you can make out the paint on the wires including white paint on the stripped leads. Someone at some point must have used spray paint and did not mask off the wires in the hole. The outlet surfaces also have paint on them, but this was from latex paint painted right over the outlets (so a different occasion in which someone failed to mask off the outlet while painting. This other outlet is closer to the sink. It was mounted upside-down (as in, ground pole at the top instead of at the bottom) but I never really minded so we've been using the outlet for years. Recently my wife noticed "a burning smell" while we had an appliance plugged into it so of course we stopped using it immediately. I tested it and discovered Hot and Neutral were reversed. Here's the innards:    This is another (different) 20A circuit, again with a 15A outlet wired in. In this case, two wires are spliced into one, using crimps wrapped in electrical tape. There is scorching in the insulation of both leads. Both were loose, as in, not tightly screwed down to the outlet. Both also have spray paint on the leads, and on the copper ground wire. The bare ground wire is not screwed to the (metal, in this case) outlet box. At least this time the outlet box itself is secured to a stud. The only thing done right with these two outlets was that they both use appropriate 12-gauge wire for 20A circuits, matching the 12GA used in the wall. I have replaced them both with 20A-rated GFCI outlets, replaced the leads with fresh wire connected using wire nuts, and in the first outlet's case, secured a replacement outlet box into the wall. It's still not perfect because the replacement box sticks out of the wall about a half-inch, I will have to cut away a big piece of drywall and reposition the outlet to get it "right" but that will have to wait.
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Sep 30, 2014 23:20
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The ground prong being on the top isn't really "upside down," it's generally considered the more correct method in a technical sense, as if something falls on the plug while it's partway in, it would contact the ground prong first (and probably only.) That being said, I still expect all my outlets to be right side up and I'll flip them over if I find one with the ground on top, and also the toilet paper should hang down on front. Except for the 20A 220V outlets in the shop, those ones I did properly with the ground on top.
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Sep 30, 2014 23:29
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