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Crotch Fruit posted:What a loving waste. It is impossible to convince me that burl was not poached, the turning wasted a ton of wood, and the buyer ruined the turning. You can not convince me that is a video of a "good" wood worker. It's also objectively ugly as gently caress. Some objects and sizes will never look good with complex / figured wood, and this is a great example. That shape would probably look really fantastic in straight-grained walnut, doug fir, etc. As-is, it looks broken-down and just a tad turd-y. Stultus Maximus posted:Speaking of routers, is there any reason not to get a table saw wing router table? I'm pretty tight on space. I could post mine, but I have the PeachTree version (cheapest cast-iron one, I think) on my 1930's Unisaw and I love it. I also drilled and threaded holes in my other wing, so I can use a Jointech fence (like an Incra). It's really nice.
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Feb 4, 2015 22:32
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drat that burl story/video is depressing
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Feb 4, 2015 23:43
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Do any of you have recommendations for shop cabinets? I'm looking for something off the shelf that I can buy, put a counter top on, and make a chop saw station out of. Looking for something to store power tools inside, relatively cheap (big box store stuff). Gruffalo Soldier posted:Off topic but I feel the need to shout it from the rooftops: the NHS loving rocks. I went to Accident & Emergency on Sunday afternoon, was stitched up on the spot, put on a course of antibiotics on Monday, operated on on Tuesday, and have an appointment with physio on Thursday morning to discuss on going treatment / recovery. Total cost to me was £8.05 (about $12), which paid for the antibiotics. Who paid for the rest?
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Feb 4, 2015 23:56
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The government / NHS? Funded via taxes.
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Feb 5, 2015 00:13
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His Divine Shadow posted:The government / NHS? Funded via taxes. I love explaining medicare to Americans.
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Feb 5, 2015 00:55
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jvick posted:Who paid for the rest? Everyone. See, it's like insurance, it's just collected by the government and doesn't gently caress poor people and those with pre-existing conditions quite as comprehensively. I had a similar experience, FWIW. I went to A&E, was seen within a couple of hours, got six stitches, some bandages and dressings, got the stitches out a week later. No need for antibiotics or similar, though they would have been available if I had. Fortunately I failed to hit any major blood vessels, nerves, tendons or bones, and the chisel was new and therefore sharp. This was on Easter Sunday morning, the only problem I had was having to get a taxi to get to A&E because I couldn't drive myself and my wife doesn't drive. Don't loving chisel yourselves, kids. I probably should have taken photos, but I really wasn't in the right frame of mind! E: and Gruffalo's story is going to make me a lot more careful with my router table in future. What were you routing, gruffalo?
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Feb 5, 2015 01:15
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What's the best way to resaw an already somewhat thin board if I don't have a bandsaw or thickness planer? I have some 3/4" x 6" maple that I would like to cut in half into thinner sections. I was thinking of doing it on my table saw, I started with the blade lower and intended to do a bunch of passes, raising the blade each time, then flip the board over and do the same from the other side. I got a couple of inches in and the sides of the board started to curl inward really badly. To the point that when the cut got about 2 1/2 - 3 inches deep the bottom edges were curled in so badly they would have touched if not for the sawblade continually removing material with each pass. The boards would come out super warped if I continued with that. Am I going to have to break down and spend an hour with a hand saw trying to cut all the way through 6 inches of maple for the 12" or so of length I want to be 1/4" thick or so?
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Feb 5, 2015 06:25
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Squibbles posted:What's the best way to resaw an already somewhat thin board if I don't have a bandsaw or thickness planer? No matter which way you cut it (literally,) you're going to have a similar problem. The wood is under tension and when you remove a bunch of material, it gets released. While the effect may be less dramatic with a handsaw, you're still going to have the same problem. This is very common with maple and I tend to allow myself a bit of extra material to allow for squaring and straightening when working with it. I don't know if there's a proper solution to your problem, aside from allowing a little extra room for dressing the lumber. The issue is with your material, not your machining. Edit: Project Update - Got my top done and everything dry fitted:  Cut the mortises for my lock and hinges:   Started and finished staining today. I hadn't stained anything in a long time, so this was stressful, especially since I've never worked with an NGR stain before. Ended up having a lot of colour inconsistencies because I wasn't aware that the stain/thinner combo had to be constantly remixed. Tried to make up for it by doing several coats and doing similar parts at the same time.     Hopefully the lacquer will lighten the colour a bit and make the grain "pop." Lesson learned, wear durable gloves while staining. 
Skinny Bins fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Feb 5, 2015 |
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Feb 5, 2015 07:02
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Gruffalo Soldier posted:Off topic but I feel the need to shout it from the rooftops: the NHS loving rocks. I went to Accident & Emergency on Sunday afternoon, was stitched up on the spot, put on a course of antibiotics on Monday, operated on on Tuesday, and have an appointment with physio on Thursday morning to discuss on going treatment / recovery. Total cost to me was £8.05 (about $12), which paid for the antibiotics. Jokes on you. American pharmacies give antibiotics free of charge! Cobalt60 posted:It's also objectively ugly as gently caress. Some objects and sizes will never look good with complex / figured wood, and this is a great example. That shape would probably look really fantastic in straight-grained walnut, doug fir, etc. As-is, it looks broken-down and just a tad turd-y. I have no idea why you'd want an enormous wind tunnely speaker cone in your house, but it reminded me of the McCook Field wind tunnel that is on display at Wright Patterson museum, which is beautiful for something that wasn't built for looks. It was made of glued up walnut, mahogany, and birch, and turned on a lathe somehow. Almost all of the cool burl figure and inclusions were totally shaved off. This is what happens when you let a stupid client run wild because they are throwing money at you. 
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Feb 5, 2015 14:13
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lwoodio posted:Jokes on you. American pharmacies give antibiotics free of charge! Well poo poo, party's over I guess :P quote:E: and Gruffalo's story is going to make me a lot more careful with my router table in future. What were you routing, gruffalo?
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Feb 5, 2015 14:18
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Skinny Bins posted:No matter which way you cut it (literally,) you're going to have a similar problem. The wood is under tension and when you remove a bunch of material, it gets released. While the effect may be less dramatic with a handsaw, you're still going to have the same problem. This is very common with maple and I tend to allow myself a bit of extra material to allow for squaring and straightening when working with it. Cool, thanks. Now I just need to figure out a way to clamp down this thin piece of wood so I can try to plane it flat. I got my plane to work nicely last night actually. It works great on edges and I get wonderful thin shavings from end to end using any part of the blade but when I try to hit the flat, large surface area it either slides right over to doing nothing or digs in and stops dead. Probably just more adjusting to do on my part. Plus a better way of holding the wood down would be good probably
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Feb 5, 2015 16:53
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Frogmanv2 posted:I love explaining medicare to Americans. Didn't mean to derail the thread. Hindsight I should have kept the  , but I deleted it before I posted. Either way, glad you're OK.
jvick fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Feb 5, 2015 |
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Feb 5, 2015 17:10
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Stultus Maximus posted:Speaking of routers, is there any reason not to get a table saw wing router table? I'm pretty tight on space. I replaced my standalone Bosch RA1181 table with a cast iron Bench Dog extension for my Grizzly table saw, and I absolutely love it. My shop is only 11x17, and I had to keep the standalone table on a rolling cart against a wall and pull it out (moving a bunch of stuff in the process) to work long pieces. Now that the router is mounted in the table saw, I know that if I have enough clearance to rip a board I also have enough clearance to run it through the router. Plus I can use my Beisemeyer-clone fence for laser-straight dado routing. I also upgraded from a Bosch 1617 to a Triton 3.25 hp with built-in lift, bolted a bit holder to the extension for all of my go-to bits, and added hooks and such for safety gear, collet wrench, adjustment rod, etc. - and as a result I've done more routing in the past month than in the previous six months combined. If you'd like I can post some pictures of my router station tomorrow - it's a pretty compact and efficient full-service setup. All of that said, if you have the space for a nice big standalone router table there is no question it's a better setup. ADHDan fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Feb 5, 2015 |
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Feb 5, 2015 20:15
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Adding a vise to my workbench, a leg vise was the simplest to make and fit most easily into my bench's design, also completed the drawers with fronts, but one of them is skewed and is really annoying me, thinking of remaking it from scratch, some day. Still to do is making a big round nut to hold the turning lever and some other hardware to hold the chop and lever together. I cut the mortise for the thingamabob that prevents racking by hand, what a loving job, but satisfying. I think pine/spruce might be worse to work on than hardwood, it just goes fibry and chewy so easily. And the big hole for the thread I cut with a brace, and the nut I recessed into the back of the leg, cut out a hole with a hole saw and chopped it clean with chisels again.
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Feb 5, 2015 20:52
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I just finished a bowl that had to dry out for a few months. I didn't leave much material on, considering I was cutting green wood, which makes this the thinnest bowl I've ever turned. It's Red Gum, finished with mineral oil. It cracked a small spot off because I dropped it taking it off the lathe,  but it patched up pretty nicely. The crack is on the ~2 o'clock position on that picture
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Feb 5, 2015 21:15
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I just made a maple top for a coffee table and I'm trying to decide on a finish. I'm looking for something that will leave the maple as blonde as possible without any yellowing while adding at least some protection against abuse--I tried clear poly on a sample and it turned it an unpleasant yellow. What do you guys suggest?
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Feb 6, 2015 07:48
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Acrylic lacquer
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Feb 6, 2015 17:20
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trying to divide a 2' x 4' sheet of 3/8" plywood into some drawer bottoms (there must be a better material for this) and the tools at my disposal are a 9" bandsaw or a jigsaw. I also have an 80s Craftsman table saw (little one) but nowhere to put it yet. Finding space for it is out of the question (hint: I'm building a space for it).  My strategy for the cut is to use a rafter square to clamp down my level (best straight edge I have, is this bad for the level?) to guide the jigsaw, but I've noticed the cuts end up at a slight angle with the exit about 1/4" to farther into the material, I am pretty sure what is happening is the blade is flexing during the cut. Is there a way to avoid this flexing so I can use all of the plywood? Currently, I think my next best stategy to get a square edge will be to make an off angle cut at the required dimensions plus a half inch, then cut several reliefs in the end so I can go back and make a square cut. At this point, I have already messed up the edges enough I don't really care about wasting more wood, I will need to get a second panel anyways.
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Feb 7, 2015 18:23
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Go slow, cut oversize, possibly use a straightedge on either side so the saw can't wander? Making dead straight cuts with a jigsaw is hard. Best suggestion? Invest in a circular saw, preferably a tracksaw or one which can be fitted with a track. It will be useful to you.
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Feb 7, 2015 18:32
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thespaceinvader posted:Go slow, cut oversize, possibly use a straightedge on either side so the saw can't wander? Making dead straight cuts with a jigsaw is hard. I agree. A cheap circ saw will give you a more straight cut than any jigsaw. Jigsaws aren't meant for long straight cuts. Thespaceinvader's recommendations for attempting a straight cut are about as good as you're going to get. Imo you'd best borrow, beg or steal to get your hands on a different saw.
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Feb 7, 2015 19:03
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thespaceinvader posted:Go slow, cut oversize, possibly use a straightedge on either side so the saw can't wander? Making dead straight cuts with a jigsaw is hard. I don't think having a straight edge on either side is the problem, I am still holding it against my straight edge but I think the blade is flexing over so that the distance between the blade and edge of base is decreasing. To be honest, I'm not even sure if it is possible for a jigsaw blade to flex so much, but I started my cut with the base against the straight edge, I got annoyed with the extra foot of waste material hanging off flapping up and down. I stopped and trimmed the waste off, and when I went to restart with the base again up against the straight edge I noticed the blade did not line up with the old cut, the old cut was closer to the guide meaning the blade must have flexed. I could be completely wrong about all this, and I don't have the setup still in place to show what I am trying to explain. A circular saw does seem like the best option. . . but I was waiting for Milwaukee to release the M12 circular saw, now I am just waiting on my wallet. I guess this leaves two options, I can either just go to a pawn shop and get a throw away $30 circular saw, or go back to Home Depot and look for another panel and find someone willing to chop it in store since. Since buying a new panel is looking more and more like the best option, what should I get? Here is my workbench in it's current form:  The drawer openings are 2x 16", 2x 8 7/8", which adds up to 49 3/4", just need barely more than a 2' x 4' panel. I could leave about a 1/2" gap around each drawer, which could be filled in with like 1/4" molding on either side of each drawer to keep them straight. . . or I could make the sides the actual side and just have the bottoms slightly undersized. I could also take advantage of the big gaps to install drawer slides ($$$), but I think having a 1/2" gap would lead to the drawers getting crooked and being difficult to slide back in. *update- I visited homedepot.com to find they had a $40 Ryobi circular saw available in store, but when I got to the store it was out of stock so i had no choice but to get the next cheapest $69 14amp 7.25" Ryobi circular saw with laser guide. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Feb 8, 2015 |
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Feb 7, 2015 19:43
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I'm always surprised by how much my jigsaw blade deflects, particularly on curves. It does happen. Best bet in the absence of buying a new saw would be to buy the wood from somewhere that will cut it to size for you. Maybe hiring one for half a day?
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Feb 7, 2015 19:46
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More bowls! Finished all these in the past three days or so. Birch 8" diameter   Zebrawood 5" diameter   Red Gum 8" diameter  Red Gum 8" diameter  Cherry 8" diameter  Cherry 10" diameter   Ambrosia Maple 8" diameter I already posted some of these, but I'm including them all anyway
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Feb 8, 2015 02:49
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Any opinions on steel city cabinet saws? Should I not bother and save for a grizzly ?
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Feb 8, 2015 03:48
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Few months ago I knocked my table saw out of alignment when building an outfeed table. Today I managed to realign the blade to miter slot within about 0.0005 which is awesome. It rips so much better than it has in a long time because my fence couldn't adjust enough to compensate. But the tilt mechanism is now binding and I'm worried I'll have to take it apart again. 
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Feb 9, 2015 04:21
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I picked up an old stanley #7 a couple weeks ago at an estate sale that I'm refurbishing. Picked up a new blade/cap iron from lee valley and this weekend was my chance to make a new tote to replace the cracked one. I actually ended up making about 3 of them. Lee valley has a nice pdf you can print and use to make a new tote for planes #5 and up. Turns out, if your plane is really old (I think this one is between 1902-06), the tote is significantly different. The second one I noticed had a crack across the chunk of maple I was using that wasn't obvious until I got it planed down to size. That left me with red oak, which looks a bit weird, but it's what I had to work with. Broken tote and layout on the maple piece. You can just barely see the crack running through the front of the tote drawing. I transferred the measurements to the oak.  Drilled the hole and cut the bottom angle and the front bit off to make sure it actually fit the plane. Third time's the charm.  Rough in on the bandsaw.  File, sand, spokeshave, and rasp until it looks right.  Add some BLO.  I'm going to throw a few coats of shellac on it and call it good. Pretty happy with how it turned out.
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Feb 9, 2015 19:07
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Wow, that looks fantastic! My plane needs a new tote as well, I had no idea they had a PDF to make your own. You've inspired me, even though I've never had much luck with a rasp...
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Feb 9, 2015 19:32
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My second bandsaw project (first was a wood gear): When I showed this to my wife last night her exact words were "That is neat, you spelled his name wrong." I guess when your focusing on preventing the blade from chopping the piece in half spelling is easily overlooked. The piece is from a $3 1 1/4" x 1/4" x 3' strip of oak from Home Depot. I think I can salvage this if I cut each letter apart, and rearrange. I think I will first try just cutting the e and i out and if the cuts are too obvious, then I will separate all the other letters too. I plan to glue this onto some sort of backing, I'm not sure what I want to do with this yet. In other related news, I opened my Ryobi circular saw last night, and found that quality control at the factory was  for this one. The depth adjustment relies on a slotted piece that fits in a channel, but the slotted piece was not aligned properly when the factory worker torqued down the nut, the slotted piece was outside the channel and thus ended up bending. After messing with it for a couple hours, the best I could get it to do was not have a level base, and have the adjuster constantly slipping out of the channel. So I returned it to Home Depot (making sure they know it's defective so they don't put it back on the shelf like Harbor Freight) and bought a Milwaukee circular saw. Budget is blown to hell (I originally went in looking for a $40 Ryobi. . .) but the Milwaukee is just awesome.The design of the Milwaukee is extremely similar to the Ryobi but everything is just a little better, a little more thought out. That said, I am a tiny bit disappointed that for $69 Ryobi included a laser and a rip fence but the Milwaukee lacks both of those features.  holy poo poo they want a lot of money for old, used, busted up crap. But I did at least find a good deal on a brad nailer.OK, I see why a rip fence is not included, because there is something called a rip guide too. I have no idea how the rip guide is supposed to work, the pictures of it just look confusing. The rip fence is obvious, but how does the rip guide work? I am about to order one online and I'm not sure which one I should get.
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Feb 9, 2015 19:43
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Sylink posted:Any opinions on steel city cabinet saws? Should I not bother and save for a grizzly ? I'm in the same boat as you it sounds. I'm pretty much set on G1023RLW or G1023RLWX after researching for the last couple weeks. Going from the 3hp -> 5hp motor is a matter of $20, can't find a good reason to not spend that even though it is completely unnecessary. Or do I go with the G1023RL, use the $120 I saved and build my own extension / router table that can accept my plate / lift.... choices. The lower end Steel City cabinet saws only have a 1.75hp motor. By the time you get to their first model with a 3hp motor it is already several hundred dollars more expensive than the G1023 or G0690. I haven't heard much negative about Steel City, they seem pretty solid, but there really isn't as many reviews or general detail out there on them as Grizzly. At $1700 for the SC 45975G-I36 vs $1325 for the Grizzly G1023RL or $1495 for the G0690- both quite proven saws- , you aren't really getting anything extra.
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Feb 9, 2015 20:12
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swampface posted:
Seconding that looks great. I have a few planes and handsaws that will need new handles eventually. Paul Sellers put out a video on customizing saw handles, which is worth watching for the spastic hi-tech editing effects alone: http://vimeo.com/31152321
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Feb 9, 2015 20:13
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I've added more death traps to my workshop, now I got all my lumber off the floor and room for more. I think I'll make another two rows of lower shelving behind the table saw as that is a dead area in terms of use. You can see where my old style shelves meet the newer tilted pipe design. My tilting router lift is now basically functional   Sacrificial subfence still missing, built a dust collection box over the hole in the fence and it works really well at catching dust actually.
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Feb 9, 2015 20:15
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Seconding that looks great. I have a few planes and handsaws that will need new handles eventually. Paul Sellers put out a video on customizing saw handles, which is worth watching for the spastic hi-tech editing effects alone: http://vimeo.com/31152321 This loving video, holy poo poo.
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Feb 9, 2015 20:47
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I've seen that before and who the gently caress OK'ed that? Did Paul Sellers see it before it got released?
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Feb 9, 2015 20:54
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His Divine Shadow posted:I've seen that before and who the gently caress OK'ed that? Did Paul Sellers see it before it got released? The same company that did his first book did a set of DVDs to go with it and they're all the same style from what I can tell. He parted ways with them awhile ago for obvious reasons.
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Feb 9, 2015 21:50
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I bought the book for that series and rented one of the DVDs from the library. They've edited everything to make it almost impossible to follow and useless for learning. The projects are supposed to be for complete beginners, but they jump cut from one step to the next, cutting out all the little details and explanations. In the book, the section on how to use a chisel is 10 sentences. Only 4 of those are on the actual use, the rest are how to draw a line on the scrap piece for practice. It ends up being incredibly frustrating and discouraging. His free stuff online is miles better. https://www.youtube.com/user/PaulSellersWoodwork https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/
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Feb 9, 2015 23:29
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His Divine Shadow posted:I've added more death traps to my workshop, now I got all my lumber off the floor and room for more. I think I'll make another two rows of lower shelving behind the table saw as that is a dead area in terms of use. You can see where my old style shelves meet the newer tilted pipe design. I really need to build some of those deathtraps for my shop, so tired of losing corners to random boards lying up against them. I'm jealous of that router lift, maybe someday I'll have some time to make something like that.
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Feb 10, 2015 02:10
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Yeah those hilariously over-produced videos from Artisan Media are so, so strange  You'd think they were doing some History Channel show or something. Meaning an alien show.Scored a Stanley No. 71 router for ~$40 on Ebay  Looks good; probably sat on a garage shelf for a decade or something. I've been watching listings for a while and I jumped on it once it came up (Buy Now option). Waiting on it to come in the mail, but the wooden grips/handles look fine (may or may not add a finish), and it's just a bit rusty.Do any of you guys have a recommended or "favorite" method for removing rust? The refurbishing I've done to date weren't big on rust, but I'll likely clean this one up just for the sake of appearances.
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Feb 10, 2015 02:27
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Crotch Fruit posted:When I showed this to my wife last night her exact words were "That is neat, you spelled his name wrong." Happens to everybody at some point or another. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nmgice3ieZ4
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Feb 10, 2015 03:22
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bimmian posted:I'm in the same boat as you it sounds. I'm pretty much set on G1023RLW or G1023RLWX after researching for the last couple weeks. Going from the 3hp -> 5hp motor is a matter of $20, can't find a good reason to not spend that even though it is completely unnecessary. Or do I go with the G1023RL, use the $120 I saved and build my own extension / router table that can accept my plate / lift.... choices. I ordered the G0715P and the mobile base, heres hoping I can get it in my basement. Also, they had the same model on amazon prime but for less money you can order direct from grizzly 
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Feb 10, 2015 11:43
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| # ? May 29, 2024 13:57 |
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Seconding that looks great. I have a few planes and handsaws that will need new handles eventually. Paul Sellers put out a video on customizing saw handles, which is worth watching for the spastic hi-tech editing effects alone: http://vimeo.com/31152321 Is Paul Sellers a lord or something??? Does he own that castle ???
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Feb 10, 2015 11:50
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