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swampface posted:I thought my #5 was ground off square for the longest time because I have to keep the lever way to the left. Turns out the slot in the blade isn't centered properly! It was nice to finally figure that out, but man I spent so much time regrinding the bevel on that thing trying to "fix" it. I have a plane with the same problem and have checked the blade, checked the mouth and body; but never thought to check the slot.
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Feb 23, 2015 20:08
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So Bosch figured out a way to get rid of the rail system on their sliders. Apparently this saves 12" of bench space on the back side and still allows for a 14" max cut capacity (12' saw). Pretty sweet. %20r23765v35.jpg)
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Feb 23, 2015 21:01
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Yeah, that kind of linkage isn't entirely new, but last I heard, the jury was still out on whether it could hold to tolerance or not.Sointenly posted:(12' saw)
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Feb 23, 2015 21:04
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Atticus_1354 posted:Worst comes to worst you can always get a new blade from lee valley. And speaking of Lee Valley, one of their regular classes is on honing and sharpening tools, so you could always sign up for that for some good instruction. Probably get some freebies out of it too.
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Feb 23, 2015 21:18
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Sointenly posted:So Bosch figured out a way to get rid of the rail system on their sliders. Apparently this saves 12" of bench space on the back side and still allows for a 14" max cut capacity (12' saw). This is a fricken awesome. saw btw. Its been out a few years and rivals the Kapex in almost every way. Andt about 1/2 the cost.
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Feb 23, 2015 22:00
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I've played with that Bosch a number of times and I'm not impressed. Every one of them has had an unacceptable amount of movement in the mechanism. A little pressure on the handle and suddenly your cut is off. No thanks.
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Feb 24, 2015 00:20
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This has been out for a few years? Ok... i'm way behind. I noticed that Craftsman has a 10" "Compact" slider also. Different linkage but same principle of reducing the footprint of the slide mechanism. If this is a trend, I like it. I think if I were someone with a small short, looking for a slider I'd seriously consider this. http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-10inch-compact-sliding-compound-miter-saw/p-00940753000P Sointenly fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Feb 24, 2015 |
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Feb 24, 2015 00:51
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wormil posted:Should have kept it. I have one that is 7 1/4, 40 tooth, ultra thin kerf, and it produces the most amazing finished looking cuts. I rarely use it on the TS but it does make nice cuts and so thin it goes through anything like butter. Well I could always reorder one, nbd. But I guess it never occurred to me to keep one so much smaller. What kind of applications would I want a really thin kerf like that?
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Feb 24, 2015 04:07
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Sointenly posted:This has been out for a few years? Ok... i'm way behind. The HItachi C12RSH has a similar slider mechanism.  It's really nice to be able to fit a 12" saw on a bench that's all the way against the wall. It's been a really great saw.
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Feb 24, 2015 04:56
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Doctor Zero posted:Well I could always reorder one, nbd. But I guess it never occurred to me to keep one so much smaller. What kind of applications would I want a really thin kerf like that? Probably none, realistically. I bought it for cutting cabinet plywood with my circular saw but have occasionally used it on my table saw for resawing small pieces of holly for a minimum of waste.
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Feb 24, 2015 06:38
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:And speaking of Lee Valley, one of their regular classes is on honing and sharpening tools, so you could always sign up for that for some good instruction. Probably get some freebies out of it too.  unfortunately.
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Feb 24, 2015 09:40
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ReelBigLizard posted:
After watching a few of the videos from Paul Sellers on sharpening planes and Chisels I finally got up the courage to sharpen my cheapo home depot chisels. It worked amazingly well and they both look better than when I bought them and are way sharper too  Gotta work up the courage to sharpen my Veritas plane blade now. I guess I should get around to restoring my Stanley #5 and sharpen that first to make sure I can do it.
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Feb 25, 2015 06:59
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I used to be hesitant to sharpen expensive tools before, but then I realized that unless you jam them into a grinder, or break them, or something else catastrophic, you can sharpen them several times a day for years before they're too short to use. Now I sharpen them whenever I think they're even starting to show signs of dullness.
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Feb 25, 2015 20:37
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I've got no problems with confidence, like I said I restore 100 year old straight razors. I just like to get some opinions on best practice and tips before I get stuck in and spend more time than I have to. I've got a shitload of interests and projects, some of them profitable, so I try and optimise my time. I love the hobby forums on SA because they're like an aggregator for awesome tips and technique, all presented with good grammar and modding of a standard you couldn't even dream of on other hobby forums. I don't rag on people who ask "google-able" questions either, because sometimes google is full of poo poo because it's regurgitating popular (but actually lovely) opinions and information. It's why I still hang around after more than a decade as a registered user.
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Feb 26, 2015 11:23
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ReelBigLizard posted:I've got no problems with confidence, like I said I restore 100 year old straight razors. I just like to get some opinions on best practice and tips before I get stuck in and spend more time than I have to. I've got a shitload of interests and projects, some of them profitable, so I try and optimise my time. DIY has saved me thousands of dollars probably. Hundreds easily, just with replacing a water heater element and adding GFCI outlets.
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Feb 27, 2015 02:34
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If you're in the UK, the Caterham F1 team is in administration, and the administrators are selling off their assets at auction: http://www.wyleshardy.com/caterhamf1/ Some astonishingly good deals here, if you care enough to find them.
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Mar 4, 2015 23:43
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Bad Munki posted:frightening https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3HBfj423cc
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Mar 5, 2015 08:01
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thespaceinvader posted:If you're in the UK, the Caterham F1 team is in administration, and the administrators are selling off their assets at auction: Sweet jesus. Why am I so poor this month!?
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Mar 5, 2015 10:02
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ReelBigLizard posted:Sweet jesus. Why am I so poor this month!? Your options were poor before or after the auction, this way you don't at least end up with a carbon fibre coffee table.
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Mar 5, 2015 15:33
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I feel like you're implying that not having said table is a good thing.
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Mar 5, 2015 15:40
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nmfree posted:This wasn't the video I was looking for, but:  I don't think I could handle having a job where I'm permanently one slip-up away from losing my fingers.
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Mar 5, 2015 15:42
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Bad Munki posted:I feel like you're implying that not having said table is a good thing. Lot 813 would make a full dining table, go big or go home.
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Mar 5, 2015 15:55
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gently caress that, lot 1491 will make you a full-sized dining table. If you have £150k to spare, buy yourself a room-sized CNC milling machine which can make ALL the things.
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Mar 5, 2015 19:28
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thespaceinvader posted:gently caress that, lot 1491 will make you a full-sized dining table. If you have £150k to spare, buy yourself a room-sized CNC milling machine which can make ALL the things. If I had £150k for a room-sized milling machine you know drat well sure I'd own a room-sized milling machine. I wouldn't be concerned about it taking up the whole garage, I'd use it as a garage.
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Mar 5, 2015 19:32
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Cakefool posted:If I had £150k for a room-sized milling machine you know drat well sure I'd own a room-sized milling machine. I wouldn't be concerned about it taking up the whole garage, I'd use it as a garage. You mean you'd use it to make a second garage.
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Mar 5, 2015 19:34
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Wait, there are people in this thread who still park cars in their garage? Where do your tools live?
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Mar 6, 2015 14:28
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Anubis posted:Wait, there are people in this thread who still park cars in their garage? Where do your tools live? Well what else would a living room be good for?
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Mar 6, 2015 15:05
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In my fully conditioned shop space 
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Mar 6, 2015 18:50
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Anubis posted:Wait, there are people in this thread who still park cars in their garage? Where do your tools live? Basement shops are a pain in the rear end when you get new tools, but awesome when it's -5F outside.
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Mar 6, 2015 20:32
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Eh my freestanding garage workshop is better insulated than most houses and has no problem with -5F, beyond that the electricity consumption goes up.
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Mar 6, 2015 20:44
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If everything goes according to plan and I get to build a shop at my next place, I'm strongly considering radiant floor heating. 
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Mar 6, 2015 20:45
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Bad Munki posted:If everything goes according to plan and I get to build a shop at my next place, I'm strongly considering radiant floor heating. DO IT.  I haven't hooked this up yet, but at least it's in the floor. I'll have it ready for next winter. The radiant I put into the attached office has been kicking rear end for two years now.
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Mar 6, 2015 20:59
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Hell yeah. My only hesitation with the in-floor heat is that I *also* want to have a raised floor that I can run ducting through, and that would basically make a heat-trapping bubble that would greatly hinder the effectiveness of the heated floor. Choices, choices! Granted, with enough space, having vertical ducts in the airspace of the shop isn't such a big deal, and allows for more flexibility of where stuff goes, so I'll probably scrap the raised floor option, but still, I love me some open air. On the topic of in-floor heating: I have this feeling that having an extra-thick slab would be a good thing for in-floor heating, since it would have more mass and thus hold its heat better in the winter once it got up to temp. Anyone have any idea if it would actually make enough of a difference to be worthwhile?
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Mar 6, 2015 21:06
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Bad Munki posted:On the topic of in-floor heating: I have this feeling that having an extra-thick slab would be a good thing for in-floor heating, since it would have more mass and thus hold its heat better in the winter once it got up to temp. Anyone have any idea if it would actually make enough of a difference to be worthwhile? Insulation below the slab is a lot more important than slab thickness, unless you expect to be opening the door/exchanging air a lot. Then the extra thermal mass will help you recover the room heat. I'm at 5" of 4500 PSI crete on that side of the barn, mostly because it was a little bit more than what I needed to safely put in a lift.
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Mar 6, 2015 21:19
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Here's a sneak peek at my current project, it's a piece of polycarbonate from an old greenhouse, washed it and drying it in the sauna. It's going to become a mesh type winter solar collector. It'll sit on my southern garage wall and with a fan and thermostat it'll heat the workshop. It's on the wall because it's a winter collector, so it's much less effective in summer while the sun is almost straight on in the months it'll work most optimally (september-october, bit into november and february-april).  Based on others experiences running these things in the same climate, they seem to work remarkably well during these months. Won't work during the deepest winter months because we had like 6 hours total of sun in december here. But it'll cut months of the time I need to rely on the heating element. I could have had radiant heat but from the start I wanted an uninsulated and unheated garage and it just changed into a full blown workshop, if I could go back I'd have added hydronic floor heating and connected it to our houses geothermal heatpump. Fortunately the plans for the garage where made for insulation and they just didn't add it when building an uninsulated model, so it was easy for me to add myself. The slab is also superbly insulated (the interior floor slab floats on insulation on the sides and underneath an bigger exterior slab, which is also insulated, and then the area under ground is insulated 1 meter out), it's quite a waste I didn't add it.
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Mar 6, 2015 21:19
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Motronic posted:Insulation below the slab is a lot more important than slab thickness, unless you expect to be opening the door/exchanging air a lot. Then the extra thermal mass will help you recover the room heat.  I guess the only other real concern, then, is that I pay attention to where the hoses are, because there are at least a few tools I'm going to want to bolt to the floor.
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Mar 6, 2015 21:20
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Bad Munki posted:Okay, that seems sensible enough. Of course when I do this, I'll actually work with someone who knows how to design one properly, rather than just wondering out loud on the internet. Yes, definitely do your layout with that in mind, but it's real easy to find them. Just crank the heat and feel. Or use an IR thermometer. A thermal imaging camera is cheat mode. I know where they are based on my photos and several fixed points (and knowing the size of the welded wire I put in), but I'd definitely double check with at least an IR thermometer before drilling poo poo.
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Mar 6, 2015 21:50
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I saw a picture online where the guy sprayed his floor with water, then watched which parts dried first.
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Mar 6, 2015 22:40
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swampface posted:Basement shops are a pain in the rear end when you get new tools, but awesome when it's -5F outside. My basement shop is connected to my garage with double doors Slab thickness helps when you don't want the temperature to change, but it hurts when you do (it'll take forever to warm up if you want to turn it up while you are in there). Radiant panels on the ceiling can work well for that, though.
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Mar 6, 2015 23:32
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I need to borrow my dad's set-saw to build some shelves in the garage while the gf is away for 6 weeks, the plan is to have it all tidied up and all the random crap stored neatly. Worth building my own wooden brackets or just buying metal ones? This is my inspiration at the moment. - And also this
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