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aerialsilks posted:
Supposedly some people get the goby to eat flakes and what not. Worst case scenario I just throw in cherry shrimp and I get a cuter, more vicious tank. You think there is a chance the goby would eat a badis? They're extremely tiny. Edit Perfect solution: now I can keep fancy guppies. My gobies can snack on whatever babies they have. D-d-d-double edit! gently caress. My betta probably isn't down with fancy guppies. I guess I will have to figure out a different livebearer. Chichevache fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 17:01
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Krataar posted:I have had a fish tank for a month now and fish for two weeks. Things that have happened: If you feed your shrimp too much they can grow too fast and not be ready to moult by the time they need to moult due to their shell being too small, or maybe your water is too hard (or where you got them from's water) so their shells were too tough. Depending on the shrimp they can be fussy about the water, which reminds me if you didn't rinse off your plants there might have been something on them that was bad for your shrimp. Maybe your tetras even harassed your shrimp while they were vulnerable, did they have anywhere to hide while moulting? Lastly shrimp don't like if the water is too hot. I've heard a lot of people give up on neon tetras due to how fragile and inbred they've become. What tetras did you get? Edited to add a pic of my new hemigrammus ocellifer tetras in their quarantine tank with suspicious looking white marks on their mouths. Fighting? Scuff marks? The dreaded white mouth disease? Only time will tell. 
Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 17:55
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Here are some pics of my fluval spec 5, stock setup. Has a heater and just popped an indian almond leaf in the filter section last night. I use RO/DI water I make myself, remineralized with seachem equilibrium and alkalinity booster, flourish complete, root tabs, and excel. Going to be trying out the DIY co2 generator next week. Tank has been setup for about 2 months, finally put in the drift wood last night after soaking in straight ro/di water for 3 weeks, changed the soaking water twice a week. It gets direct sun in the afternoon from the window, I do water changes of about a gallon once a week. Only a betta now, going to add a school of about 6-8 celestial pearl danios and colorful shrimps in a couple months. http://imgur.com/a/r7snz
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Mar 19, 2015 18:00
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^^looks really nice so far! I have a spec V in the mail which I want to set up as a biotope tank for Pygmy corydoras. What's the outlet flow like? I've been thinking about modifying it to have a pipe going to a spray bar on the opposite side to the inlet as having inlet and outlet on the same side of a longwise shaped tank doesn't seem right to me.
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Mar 19, 2015 18:07
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Stoca Zola posted:^^looks really nice so far! I have a spec V in the mail which I want to set up as a biotope tank for Pygmy corydoras. What's the outlet flow like? I've been thinking about modifying it to have a pipe going to a spray bar on the opposite side to the inlet as having inlet and outlet on the same side of a longwise shaped tank doesn't seem right to me. The pump is very strong, I set it to the lowest setting using the pump's adjustment thingy, that wasn't enough so I cut a small hole in the return tube at the top before it goes into the tank. This also helps to circulate water around the heater. I suppose it wouldn't be hard to setup a spray bar but isn't necessary either. The grates on the overflow are very tall so to keep a good surface skimming action and high water level in the tank I put a plastic credit card on the inside of the grates to improve surface skimming.
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Mar 19, 2015 18:13
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I've got 6 CPDs in a 10 gallon, with a couple otos. The CPDs are the most skittish fish I have ever seen (or, more frequently, not seen). The tank is moderately planted. Anything I can do to give them a little more courage? I assumed six would be a decent enough school, especially with them essentially being by themselves. I don't love the idea of adding much more bioload to the tank, but I am fairly tired of looking at a seemingly empty tank. More CPDs? Badis?
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Mar 19, 2015 18:20
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Slugworth posted:I've got 6 CPDs in a 10 gallon, with a couple otos. The CPDs are the most skittish fish I have ever seen (or, more frequently, not seen). The tank is moderately planted. Anything I can do to give them a little more courage? I assumed six would be a decent enough school, especially with them essentially being by themselves. I don't love the idea of adding much more bioload to the tank, but I am fairly tired of looking at a seemingly empty tank. More CPDs? Badis? More plants, more cover. They are always going to be shy the only thing to do is provide more cover all over the tank so they move around instead of hiding.
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Mar 19, 2015 18:22
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Slugworth posted:I've got 6 CPDs in a 10 gallon, with a couple otos. The CPDs are the most skittish fish I have ever seen (or, more frequently, not seen). The tank is moderately planted. Anything I can do to give them a little more courage? I assumed six would be a decent enough school, especially with them essentially being by themselves. I don't love the idea of adding much more bioload to the tank, but I am fairly tired of looking at a seemingly empty tank. More CPDs? Badis? From what I read when looking into getting some, the tank should be heavily planted, or else they become more reclusive.
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Mar 19, 2015 18:24
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Also, don't expect CPDs to school. They like the presence of others like a school would, but they don't actually school like tetras do. They are neat fish, but man are they skittish as if you have found out. I'm going to stick to something like cherry rasboras or neon/cardinal tetras for now on i think.
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Mar 19, 2015 19:24
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You guys have 15 minutes or so to talk me out of buying a rainbow goby, also known as a neon blue goby, to go with my bumblebees.
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Mar 19, 2015 19:40
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Chichevache posted:You guys have 15 minutes or so to talk me out of buying a rainbow goby, also known as a neon blue goby, to go with my bumblebees. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=830+836+3011&pcatid=3011 quote:Hailing from clear, fast-moving streams of Asia, the Neon Blue Goby requires an established aquarium that replicates conditions found in these environments. It is critical to provide high aeration and strong water movement to ensure the health of the Neon Blue Goby. A fast-moving, oxygen-rich environment can be achieved through the use of powerheads. Make sure the airline tubing connected to the powerhead inlet is drawing in fresh air. The use of a slightly oversized filter will also increase filtration and water movement. Also, avoid high water temperatures to ensure greater dissolved oxygen content.
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Mar 19, 2015 19:58
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Well I've got highly aerated water with decent flow and tons of algae that he will be the sole scavenger for. I checked around a bunch of other forums and these gobies seem extremely easy to care for compared to the rest of their family.
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Mar 19, 2015 20:30
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Chichevache posted:You guys have 15 minutes or so to talk me out of buying a rainbow goby, also known as a neon blue goby, to go with my bumblebees. Talking you into it so you can report on whether they eat hair algae or not. Knowledgeable guy at the LFS says they do, but nothing online supports this.
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Mar 19, 2015 20:58
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Slugworth posted:Talking you into it so you can report on whether they eat hair algae or not. Knowledgeable guy at the LFS says they do, but nothing online supports this. I have heard conflicting accounts in the 20 minutes I read about them online. Some say theirs will go for it, most say they prefer brown algae and biofilm. Maybe they are separate subspecies that haven't been officially identified yet?  either way, I have a shitload of hair algae so I will be happy to report on whether he goes for it.I haven't even finished adding everyone and the bumblebees are already stalking snails around the tank.  everyone should get these little guys.
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Mar 19, 2015 21:11
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Chichevache posted:I have a shitload of hair algae Maybe you should fix that problem before adding a fish you think will "fix" it for you?
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Mar 19, 2015 21:18
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r0ck0 posted:Maybe you should fix that problem before adding a fish you think will "fix" it for you? I don't know where you got the impression I was trying to "fix" the algae, but let me disabuse you of that right now. I bought the fish because I appreciated his looks and thought it would be a good fit for my tank. I do not care if he eats hair algae or not, I am merely happy to confirm whether or not he does, so that we can all learn a little bit more about some of the wonderful fish in our hobby. He is an omnivore and consumes a variety of non-hair algae, which my tank has in abundance, so he should be very happy. The hair algae is not a "problem" either. I am concerned with the happiness of my fish, not the appearance of the tank. Unless the algae poses a threat to the fish I am unaware of, it is irrelevant to me. The hair algae is not thick enough to trap or snare any of my fish. It is not covering the entirety of my 30 gallon tank either, it is confined to the corner nearest to the sliding glass door where the sunlight often hits it. I never let it grow to the point that it will disturb the fish. Maybe you're concerned the algae is a sign of poor water quality? My tank has been set up for about nine months now. As of my last water test, this morning, everything was perfect. My bioload is still very light and I often have to overfeed my betta because he is absolutely terrible about locating his food, so there is an abundance of nutrients for the plants and algae to fight over, but with weekly water changes it has never resulted in a chemical spike either. your concern is appreciated
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Mar 19, 2015 22:08
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Chichevache posted:I have heard conflicting accounts in the 20 minutes I read about them online. Some say theirs will go for it, most say they prefer brown algae and biofilm. Maybe they are separate subspecies that haven't been officially identified yet? Is your tank brackish because bumblebee gobies are brackish.
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Mar 20, 2015 08:36
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Whale Cancer posted:Is your tank brackish because bumblebee gobies are brackish. My understanding is that there are a couple goby species sold under that name. According to several sources I found the xanthozonas (solid dark bands, opposed to the brackish species which have spots and breaks in the dark coloration) are comfortable in freshwater. Both of them already ate today, frozen bloodworms. Supposedly feeding is the biggest hurdle in keeping them.
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Mar 20, 2015 09:25
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I didnt have the shrimp more then a few days. I got 6 neons. They look way more colorful then when i first got them and much more active. They look healthier.
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Mar 20, 2015 09:59
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Krataar posted:I didnt have the shrimp more then a few days. I got 6 neons. They look way more colorful then when i first got them and much more active. They look healthier. Yeah, tetras can decolor/recolor almost completely based on how stressed they are. It's a good sign when they regain their bright coloring, it means they're not as panicky anymore.
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Mar 20, 2015 18:43
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So, I'm wondering if anybody's ever had any issues with livebearer babies that just... won't grow? I have about 10 babies, right now, and some of them are around 6-8 months old and still less than half an inch long. Meanwhile, some of their siblings are in the big tank and full grown already(but not all; at least two have stopped growing as well, at less than an inch). They get fed multiple times a day with Hikari first bites and some mini pellets for the slightly bigger guys, but for whatever reason they just stopped. I never had this issue with my guppies, when I was breeding those, but it seems to happen pretty frequently with my platys.Krataar posted:I didnt have the shrimp more then a few days. I got 6 neons. They look way more colorful then when i first got them and much more active. They look healthier. I've noticed shrimp will often molt when placed in new tanks, but after only two weeks to run the probable cause of death was an uncycled tank, especially if they only lived a few days. Shrimp are sensitive. Keep an eye on those neons and check your water quality frequently, especially since you put even more fish in there.
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Mar 21, 2015 00:59
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Chichevache posted:You think there is a chance the goby would eat a badis? They're extremely tiny. Oops, sorry, I missed this. Unless you're getting a very young molly fry-sized Badis, no. Bumblebee Gobies don't have big enough mouths for any of the Badis I've seen in stores. For what it's worth, too, even just putting some salt in the water will keep the goby content for a decent amount of time, but they will definitely do better in brackish regardless. Mine generally lived about 8-12 months or so, unfortunately.
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Mar 21, 2015 03:30
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I've discovered the identity of the murderer of all the large ramshorn snails in my tank! I'd noticed a growing number of empty shells, and having seen a rosy barb fry eat all the eye stalks from his tankmate snails, I just assumed that the big rosy barbs were nudging them over, chomping into them and ripping them out of their shells. But the rosy barbs seem more focused on snail eggs and eating the leaves off my plants to have done in all these snails. The real culprit it turns out, is the filter inlet! Again! I've had a sponge over the inlet's inbuilt grille as I didn't trust it after a whole fish went up the one on my other tank. But it was clogging faster than I'd liked, so I'd hitched the sponge up just a little bit so that there was some of the grille peeking out from the sponge cylinder; not enough for a fish to be sucked up but enough to increase the flow and remove a little more debris from the water. However it was apparently also big enough for a grazing ramshorn snail to stick it's head through, and then get it's head stuck. I found three of them solidly jammed in the grille, unable to retract their heads for what ever reason, maybe increased suction due to the small size of the unsponged inlet holes? Actually it may well have been because they'd already died like that, I can't really tell. It was pretty awful trying to shake them loose and realising they just weren't coming free of their own accord and I was going to have to rip them off by hand, on the other hand the fish seemed to like eating the ripped off snail head once it finally came free. So, the little pile of snails under the inlet probably haven't been just snails grazing on the crud that had accumulated there, it was probably a pile of headless snail corpses and empty shells all along. Needless to say I have pushed the sponge all the way down over the grille again. I should have known not to trust the inlet even that little bit. aerialsilks posted:So, I'm wondering if anybody's ever had any issues with livebearer babies that just... won't grow? I have about 10 babies, right now, and some of them are around 6-8 months old and still less than half an inch long. Meanwhile, some of their siblings are in the big tank and full grown already(but not all; at least two have stopped growing as well, at less than an inch). They get fed multiple times a day with Hikari first bites and some mini pellets for the slightly bigger guys, but for whatever reason they just stopped. I never had this issue with my guppies, when I was breeding those, but it seems to happen pretty frequently with my platys. I've got rosy barbs that are stunted (but also show other obvious deformities) and from what I've read you get runts from either genetic abnormalities or from too infrequent water changes. As the fish grow their metabolites affect the growth of other fish around them, if the concentration gets too high some fry will stay stunted and in nature they'd die which allows the larger healthier fry to survive in the small body of water without starvation from competition. The only way you can trick this system into knowing the fish will have enough food is if you keep them in clean water so that the metabolites are diluted as they would be in a large body of water with plentiful food sources. That's paraphrasing, I don't remember the source and there are a few arguments about whether this is actually true or not since in some cases stunting is blamed on not having physically enough space to swim around. Anyway fry are much more sensitive to these metabolites which most likely are just regular fish excreta not some weird growth hormone like some people have suggested, and what would be considered "clean enough" for adult fish is not necessarily good enough for growing fry. I don't think this principle changes much between livebearers and egg-laying fish fry.
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Mar 21, 2015 08:23
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So over the past couple of weeks I've been setting up a tank (for an axolotl, but that's irrelevant). Today I did three things: put in an ornament (that was new and I washed), put in sand (that I bought, bagged, from an aquarium shop) and did a 20% water change ready to add an ammonia source to start a cycle. There is currently nothing living in the tank that I have put in there. After doing the water change, I was admiring the tank and noticed some new critters. A couple of tiny organisms - one looks kind of like a caterpillar and is about 5mm in length and then there are a couple of super wiggly worm things of a similar length. Now, I'm assuming these came from the sand since I would be concerned if poo poo like this was in my water supply, and I've never seen any before. I didn't rinse the sand before putting it in - which was perhaps my mistake - as I figured it was bagged and ready to go. What's the best way to banish these critters? If I remove all the water and the sand, will it be ok to wash the sand a bunch and then put it back in along with new water?
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Mar 21, 2015 19:29
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I say leave em in. It shows that your water is capable of sustaining life, and anything chemically you do to get rid of them will change your water such that it is not capable of sustaining life, which is hopefully not what your goal is. I am guessing you could have flatworms or maybe aquatic worms, or maybe even mosquito larva. Critters like these live in the substrate and cruise around on the glass eating bits of detritus and on the whole don't really hurt anything, although some types of flatworms can be harmful for shrimp or fish fry. If you have these critters happily surviving with no other tank mates then chances are they are not the sort that depend on doing damage to your livestock to survive. If you can get some pics I'd be interested to see what you have.
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Mar 22, 2015 04:08
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They do pop up in new tanks. It can be a real mystery how they just appear sometimes but they should disappear once you get bigger critters in there. If you really dont want them hanging around you can get a few shrimp and pop them in, who'll then be snacks for your axolotls when those get in. :v
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Mar 22, 2015 04:14
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I forgot to say you have almost zero chance of washing off every critter and every critter egg if you just wash the sand. You're probably right about the sand being pre-washed and you can see that it didn't work the first time to get rid of everything!
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Mar 22, 2015 05:24
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Cheers for the replies. I'll see if I can get any photos, when I tried last night the creatures were too tiny for my camera to focus. My main concern is that I've read that some worms can get into axolotl gills and cause problems. I don't want to hurt it when I finally get to put it in! I was actually considering buying a shrimp friend. Which types are benign to other tankmates and good for cleaning?
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Mar 22, 2015 10:47
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Get red cherry shrimp!!!! get at least 10 and try to get them to breed! they re so awesome
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Mar 22, 2015 11:20
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I've had my shrimps since January I think, the seller sent me a heap of juveniles with only a couple of saddled females, but I'm starting to see more and more saddles now! It's really exciting, actually the males were all shooting around like maniacs after saturday's water change so I wonder if there is a berried female hiding somewhere that I haven't seen yet. I am half worried that the suction on the filters will be too strong for the baby shrimp but judging by the way debris floats around in the water after I've tipped new stuff in, it doesn't get instantly pulled against the filter sponge so maybe the suction will be gentle enough. Maybe something less visible like ghost/cleaner shrimps would have safer lives in with axolotls? Or they might be safe if you get enough fine plant cover for them to hide in. Red cherries are supposed to be pretty hardy though and I think they would be okay in cool temperature axolotl water. Any fan-feeding type shrimp may not last since they filter feed and I'm not sure how easy it is to make sure they get enough food, but as long as the shrimp doesn't have long arms it will be a safe tankmate. This site has a nice list of "safe" species, anything not listed under Macrobrachium would most likely be harmless to an axolotl (and more likely to provide it with a snack!) as long as the other water chemistry requirements are suitable. http://www.petshrimp.com/shrimpspecies.php
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Mar 22, 2015 12:36
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I just sent off an enquiry about cherry shrimp, actually! I probably don't want a colony - I have a tiny flat and this tank is only 24x15x12in. I'm thinking 3-5 shrimp would be good? And I'm not really fussed if the axie ends up eating them, I just don't want him to get infested with worms.
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Mar 22, 2015 12:37
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You want to get cheap breeder's culls if you can for tank cleaning, ie nothing wrong with the shrimp just not premium super coloured ones, since the bright ones can cost a stack. I got 30 for $20 from a guy a couple of cities away off our craiglist-equivalent and he mailed them to me in a breather bag inside an insulated box - no problems, all arrived fine. Mine are in a 5 gallon-ish 10"x10"x12" tall tank and they are by no means crowded. For your tank you could house a LOT of shrimp but since shrimp aren't your main goal I'd get 10 or so to start with. I'd be wary of getting too few because they like hanging around together and if your numbers are too low they might get stressed plus they only have little tiny legs and little tiny nippers and they probably won't keep up so well with the cleaning in small numbers. Snails can be good as clean up crew too, the glass in my new tank got filthy with algae really quickly before I moved some snails across but a) see thread title b) snails can carry parasites which may or may not affect your axolotls. Shrimp will need to be fed in a new tank where not much algae has built up yet, you can't just let them go or they can quickly starve. If you're worried about your worms, keep in mind that any segmented worm (ie catepillar like or earthwormlike) is not a flatworm and is not likely to be interested in your axolotls. Any barrel shaped or arrow headed worms could be flatworms that may irritate an axolotl's exterior - these will increase in number if excess food or debris is not cleaned from the aquarium. You are very unlikely to see internal parasite worms outside of their target hosts. They'd starve if they were just waiting around in an empty tank for a host to show up. And apparently anchor worms can affect axolotls too, although they aren't even really worms they're skinny copepod crustaceans. If you can see the critter on the glass of your tank, you might be able to unscrew the lens from an old webcam and invert it to use as a magnifier to get a better look, or use poster adhesive/silly putty etc to temporarily stick the lens to your phone camera to get pictures. Here's one I took using this method, of some kind of worms chilling out on some snail eggs:  I don't think I have any worms like this any more, my fish ate them all.
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Mar 22, 2015 14:46
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Just checking on something... but it's not possible for assassin snails to actually catch and kill a fish.... right? Found all of them clustered up this morning on the corpse of a dwarf cory. Didn't notice any of the corys acting weird before heading to bed last night, water temp/parameters are stable. I guess it's possible that one of them up and died overnight, but don't know if an assassin could catch them while they're resting on the bottom. I hope not. I've enjoyed having my tank mostly snail free...
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Mar 22, 2015 21:05
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Fejsze posted:Just checking on something... but it's not possible for assassin snails to actually catch and kill a fish.... right? If they did, the cory was already dying. My assassins make quick work of anything dead in the tank. That doesn't mean they kill the fish, and any fish that can't escape a snail isn't going to make it anyway. Had the SAKE fish expo yesterday. Went great! Won some awesome prizes and ended up with 4 frontosa juvies (I seriously thought someone would outbid me!) and some Cynotiliapia Lions Cove juvies. I didn't expect to get those either, everyone I spoke to said meh, they're not so pretty. Google says they should at least be decent.
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Mar 22, 2015 22:58
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Stoca Zola posted:Shrimp and... Hopefully a couple of weeks of shrimp will eliminate any more non-consensual critters. This is the only photo I managed to get, this is the caterpillar-y thing I was talking about : 
Bollock Monkey fucked around with this message at 11:14 on Mar 23, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 23:29
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Cowslips Warren posted:If they did, the cory was already dying. Thanks, didn't think so, now I'm wondering how that one died. One other random rear end question for y'all; Back when I picked up the corys for the tank a month or so ago, they came with a teeny tiny fry. Didn't know what it was, and been watching it grow, and finally have determined it's most likely a feeder guppy (guppy of some sort, but isn't pretty like the ones I normally see for sale). I know it'll eat anything that'll fit in its mouth, so how many shrimp fry would I expect to lose with this guy swimming around the tank? I have 3 female RCS that are carrying eggs, and I do want to increase the colony size, and there is a lot of moss and other hiding spots, but I'd be disappointed if only a few of the upcoming shrimplings make it.
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Mar 23, 2015 23:01
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Woke up to a semi disaster this morning, at some point overnight one of the cats has stood on the lid of the second shrimp aquarium, pushed it in to the tank somehow and then fled the scene. I can only see three of the seven shrimp that should be in there, one of the saddled females is gone. I hope she's just hiding and didn't get stuck to the wet cat or squashed. We had rain last night so I thought nothing of a drenched cat coming in to the bedroom in the middle of the night, wailing. It happened twice and in hindsight the back half of the cat was much wetter the second time. Well at least I still have the original shrimp tank intact, once I've done a water change tonight after work I'll have to think about moving some more shrimp across to the second tank. Or maybe moving the survivors back in to the original tank and getting something else for the second tank?
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Mar 24, 2015 02:52
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Got me some shramp, cheers for the tip, guys! How quickly do cherry shrimp grow? How often do they need feeding (I figure once the axolotl's in there, any survivors will live off its leftovers so won't need their own food...)?
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Mar 24, 2015 19:42
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Bollock Monkey posted:How quickly do cherry shrimp grow? How often do they need feeding (I figure once the axolotl's in there, any survivors will live off its leftovers so won't need their own food...)? It looks like the ones you have are mature juveniles (blurry one on the left looks like a mature female, so she won't get any bigger), so wouldn't expect too much more growth from them, but from when you can start to see actual shimplings to fully mature is ~2-3 months. The tank looks rather barren, do you have anywhere for them to hide? They molt more regularly when they have somewhere that isn't out in the open, and if you want them to breed, they have to have somewhere like that since the female hides, and releases pheromones and stays hidden until the eggs are fertilized. I also find mine seem to molt pretty consistently after my fortnightly water change until maturity. They'll scrounge off any leftover fish food and natural algae in the tank, but they really love algae wafers, and I toss in a piece every day. Recommendation is to not put in more than they can eat in ~2 hours. Also, when you put in the food they should flock to it (which isn't a sign of starving them, they're scavengers and the species isn't really built for having a constant food source). If they don't you're overfeeding and risk throwing off the water quality, etc. But, they'll survive if there's enough leftovers and algae for them to snack on, the colony just won't get very big. You can also blanch some veggies and toss them in from time to time, they seem to love that. Fejsze fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Mar 24, 2015 |
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Mar 24, 2015 20:17
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I'm not interested in them breeding, really. But in terms of the tank, there's a submarine fish hide thing and some rocks and plants (an elodea bunch and some fake ones), as well as those moss balls. I think they're all good for hiding places!
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Mar 24, 2015 21:00
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