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I'm gonna kinda miss all the crap tank posts.
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Sep 1, 2015 22:46
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big_g posted:Cross posted the tale of Crap Tank to the miniature painting mega thread: Yesssss. We are all winners in this contest. Blackchamber posted:Late, and incomplete. I tried melting and gluing the tracks on but they just dont want to stay together. Crap effort for my crap tank anyways since I basically redid the paint job last night. I like it.  big_g posted:I'm gonna kinda miss all the crap tank posts. WELL LUCKY YOU! I don't think I mentioned this before but I tried to rough up the surface of my craptank using model cement, but because I dabbed it with a paper towel there are all these little fuzzies that are now embedded in the plastic. The turret is like a rusty armored scrotum.  (click for big) Now I wish I'd painted it skin colored and embedded a bunch of painted-black wires in the side. I could literally have made a cocktank. VVV score?? 
Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Sep 1, 2015 |
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Sep 1, 2015 23:14
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It's fine, there will be plenty more next In non-craptank news, I got some S-Model "quickbuild" kits because they were cheap and I wanted a Pz38H75(f) to build. Turns out that they come with photo etch. I'm not sure these are quick to build at all. I don't think I even have snips small enough to take these things off the sprue 
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Sep 1, 2015 23:15
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Arquinsiel posted:It's fine, there will be plenty more next Don't snip photo etch. Put it on a ceramic plate and cut it. Huge Tiger tank update - Started on the turret roof  For size reference, this is exactly as big as my hand. With fingers.
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Sep 2, 2015 00:18
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What should I cut it with? I've never used it at all.
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Sep 2, 2015 00:42
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Arquinsiel posted:What should I cut it with? I've never used it at all. I use a hobby knife with an old #11 blade. The hard cutting surface is the important part. It mostly eliminates the potential for the part wrinkling or warping when you cut it.
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Sep 2, 2015 00:48
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Arquinsiel posted:What should I cut it with? I've never used it at all. What I do is hold the piece between two flat hard things and snip off as much of the sprue as I can, then trim the rest with a knife on some paper laid on a hard surface. Sometimes, though, I just cut it with snippers then half-rear end file the rest. This is plenty for parts that are supposed to be a little hosed up, like grating on a surface that can be shot at.
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Sep 2, 2015 01:13
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Greyhawk posted:Don't snip photo etch. Put it on a ceramic plate and cut it.  drat, that looks nice.
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Sep 2, 2015 02:00
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I've got a few kits I'm looking to trade and/or sell. Is a post like that okay here, or do I need to dump it in SA mart?
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Sep 3, 2015 22:28
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Post in SA mart, link here I think.
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Sep 3, 2015 22:31
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What's the current name and label for Future?
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Sep 4, 2015 01:02
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Professor PJ Huff'nBuff's Stupendical Invisimazing Floor Tonic.
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Sep 4, 2015 01:18
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Professor PJ Huff'nBuff's Stupendical Invisimazing Floor Tonic. I don't think I've ever seen that in stores around here.
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Sep 4, 2015 01:28
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everythingWasBees posted:I don't think I've ever seen that in stores around here. It seems to change every month and in every region. Isn't it just a nice cheap gloss finish? Shouldn't any gloss coat do the same job if not better? What is with the obsession with FUTURE? The smell? It does smell nice!
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Sep 4, 2015 01:30
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The price, mainly. You get a bunch of it for cheap. It does have drawbacks though, mostly that it yellows over time. Modelling/Artist grade varnishes and clears are designed to not yellow, but Future isn't since they expect you to be reapply the stuff on your floor every single year.
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Sep 4, 2015 01:36
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everythingWasBees posted:What's the current name and label for Future?  here you go
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Sep 4, 2015 03:06
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Troll Bridgington posted:
Thank you so much. Bloody Hedgehog posted:The price, mainly. You get a bunch of it for cheap. Are there any varnishes that are as durable as Future that are readily available? Especially ones that come in a spray can or can be brushed on. Preferable not containing or removable in alcohol. everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 06:47
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everythingWasBees posted:Thank you so much. No prob. If you want a spray can, you can give Testors clear coat a shot. Troll Bridgington fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 07:14
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Yeah, Testors Gloss and Dullcote are the go-to product for spray clears. If you want something with a bit more control and value per dollar, Liquitex and Vallejo both sell bottles of varnish in matte/satin/gloss you can apply with a brush or an airbrush.
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Sep 4, 2015 07:41
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Alright, thank you all so much! I'll definitely give the Testors a try.
everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 16:25
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Wait, Testors sells a product that isn't poo poo?
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Sep 4, 2015 16:39
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Yes. A product.
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Sep 4, 2015 16:57
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edit: nevermind
everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 18:38
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Probably stupid question, but if I have a choice to get airplane 1/72 model kits from either Revell, Airfix or Academy, which should I prefer, considering most of my other stuff is Revell? I'm in Bulgaria at the moment and found a store that has all three, looking to bring back a souvenir or two. Also spotted the Revell F-15A(edit: This one), proudly displaying a 1982 copyright on the box and boasting a whole 23 parts(and a fully empty cockpit). Wouldn't have noticed normally if I didn't also spot some of their older products among the newer stuff. At least unlike Revell's WW1 stuff this one has colored decals. Kinda tempted to get it as well just because it's an ancient kit. Smoke fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 20:26
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TBH I think it's a kit-by-kit basis with all of them. I've seen people swear off every single one of those manufacturers.
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Sep 4, 2015 20:56
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Jonny Nox posted:Yes. A product. Under their base "Testors" brand, yeah, their sprays are about it. But their subsidiary brand, Model Master, makes some really decent stuff. I hear their buffable metalizers are supposed to be quite good, and they're one of the few manufacturers that makes a clear topcoat for metalizers that doesn't unduly change the metal finish once applied. Despite not really using any of the base Testors products anymore, I think Testors will still have a fond place in my heart. Their spinny paint carousel thing was most young kids introduction to model paints back in the day. I can distinctly remember working on some ship model, and having a rough time trying to paint straight lines with their little square bottles of enamel. I suddenly had the thought "Wait, I could put down strips of tape, and that would let me get nice, crisp lines when I paint!". In my little seven year old head, I had invented masking and was king of the modellers.
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Sep 4, 2015 21:18
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Testors liquid cement is pretty decent too. Not the poo poo in a squeeze tube but the clear liquid.
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Sep 4, 2015 22:09
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Yeah, Testors Gloss and Dullcote are the go-to product for spray clears. Really? I got their gloss clear in a rattle can and that poo poo stayed tacky for weeks. Their dullcote stuff is pretty fantastic, but I hate their gloss clear. As much as I like their dullcote, you have to be careful with it. Its solvents will eat up oil paints and all sorts of other stuff. Bleh.
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Sep 5, 2015 03:02
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wtfbacon posted:Really? I got their gloss clear in a rattle can and that poo poo stayed tacky for weeks. What sort of surface were you spraying it on? I've never had issue on resin or styrene. Vinyls can cause issues though.
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Sep 5, 2015 04:33
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I've been workin' on the Ju 290. Have it painted, and am doing the decals now. Once everything else is done, I'm going to do all the bits that would otherwise break. Also, in late WW2 German planes, were wing walks a thing? How about meticulously stenciling in "no step" and labeling all the fuel flaps(?)
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Sep 5, 2015 04:47
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:What sort of surface were you spraying it on? I've never had issue on resin or styrene. Vinyls can cause issues though. Styrene kits painted with Vallejo.
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Sep 5, 2015 13:21
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:What sort of surface were you spraying it on? I've never had issue on resin or styrene. Vinyls can cause issues though. It gonna be an issue on metal, you think?
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Sep 5, 2015 15:18
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popping over from the miniature painting side of things i've been looking into stuff for doing panel lines other than painting them with a brush and a quick tour around German web stores gave me Panel Line Accent Color by Tamiya , Paneliner by AK Interactive and Panel Line Wash by Ammo of Mig as far as dedicated panel line products go. I was wondering if anyone has recommendations or experiences regarding these or if i should just grab some Testors enamel paint and thinner. I'm planning to use whatever i end up with on 1:150 resin tanks and aircraft, Dropzone Commander specifically.
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Sep 5, 2015 15:19
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I've always had good experiences with AK Interactive enamel washes and white spirit. For the larger scale models though I now mainly use the Flory Models weathering washes but I'm not sure how they would work at that scale.
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Sep 5, 2015 17:09
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Arquinsiel posted:TBH I think it's a kit-by-kit basis with all of them. I've seen people swear off every single one of those manufacturers. In that case I'd like to know which kits I should either definitely avoid or definitely get. I've already built a bunch of Revell stuff in the past(some of it pretty poo poo though) and can easily get it back home, which is why I was wondering about Airfix and Academy mostly.
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Sep 5, 2015 17:14
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I've listed a handful of kits for sale. If you're looking for some Dragon armor or some classic Revell wingy-thingy kits, take a look. Thread
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Sep 5, 2015 18:30
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Smoke posted:In that case I'd like to know which kits I should either definitely avoid or definitely get. I've already built a bunch of Revell stuff in the past(some of it pretty poo poo though) and can easily get it back home, which is why I was wondering about Airfix and Academy mostly. The academy p-38 is supposedly the best available kit of that plane, fit-wise. I've got a mustang, bf-109, fw-190, p-40, p-47, an avenger, and their catalina; they were all good kits, just avoid anything with large decals/decals that have to conform to complex shapes, because a lot of their decals don't react well to the various setting solutions (i.e. they ignore them entirely). By and large, I think academy 1/72 stuff tends to be real good, save for the decals in some kits (newer releases have *much* better decals). In regards to airfix, The hurricane mkI kit is fantastic for the price, as are most of the more recent kits, like the lancaster, c-47, spitfire, fw-190, dornier do-17, bristol blenheim & beaufighter, boulton-paul defiant, and the gloster gladiator, fairey swordfish, dehaviland tiger moth if you're cool with biplanes. Basically, pop on over to airfix's site, anything with new tooling is gonna be a real good kit, especially for the price of airfix kits.
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Sep 5, 2015 18:42
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I wandered into a hobby store today to see if there was anything interesting for cheap. Found the USS Jimmy Carter  for $8. 10 pieces. This might be a difficult build. I'm going to see what if I can figure out water lines with it.
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Sep 5, 2015 23:56
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everythingWasBees posted:It gonna be an issue on metal, you think? It may. The main problem is every metal is different, so some like paint, some don't. If we're talking brass photo-etch, than normal model paints and sprays should be fine. If it's an actual full metal piece, then an etching primer spray would be a good first coat to go with, and then normal paints can be used afterword.
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Sep 6, 2015 00:35
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big_g posted:I've always had good experiences with AK Interactive enamel washes and white spirit. For the larger scale models though I now mainly use the Flory Models weathering washes but I'm not sure how they would work at that scale. Thanks, I'll give that stuff a try.
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Sep 6, 2015 08:17
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