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For what it's worth, I have been buying Freud bits to replace my Ryobi crap and I absolutely love them. So far I have two pattern bits, a bunch of solid carbide end mills, a big 1/2" ball nose, and a tiny 1/16" straight. Very happy with all of them.
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Sep 6, 2015 17:49
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Okay I'll check out Freud bits
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Sep 6, 2015 18:18
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King Hotpants posted:For what it's worth, I have been buying Freud bits to replace my Ryobi crap and I absolutely love them. So far I have two pattern bits, a bunch of solid carbide end mills, a big 1/2" ball nose, and a tiny 1/16" straight. Very happy with all of them. Yeah, I was reading up and heard the same thing re: circular saw blades, ordered a replacement of the 16T that came with my makita, the 24T Freud Diablo - was only 10 bucks off amazon prime in 6 1/2". Had really glowing reviews.
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Sep 6, 2015 18:39
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I use whiteside bits and they seem ok enough. Just be aware its easier to break the carbide bits (i have done this).
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Sep 8, 2015 21:53
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tater_salad posted:Next step is to flush out my bit collection.. picked up a starter ryobi kit. My plan is to replace bits that break with bosch or smilar. Also pick up a 1" long flush trim bit with bottom bearing I have a basic set of bits from ENT, which have carbide cutters on an hss shank. Basically the cheapish way to have TC bits. It's pretty much the same set sold under the dewalt brand in NA, with the difference that some of the bits in the ENT set are metric, and they're 8mm shank, rather than 1/2".
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Sep 9, 2015 02:25
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Can anyone tell me why I'm an idiot for thinking about buying the Makita track saw? Please?
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Sep 17, 2015 15:20
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Makita is a good brand Track saws apparently are all the rage with the kids these days. So I don't think you are an idiot.. unless you don't plan on cutting wood things in your lifetime then you are dumb.
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Sep 17, 2015 15:53
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Or if you plan to use it to cut meat. That's probably not a good idea.
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Sep 17, 2015 15:55
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Does anyone know if hardware stores still carry tooth setting tools for hand saws? Or am I going to be stuck combing the used market for one?
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Sep 17, 2015 16:00
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Zhentar posted:Can anyone tell me why I'm an idiot for thinking about buying the Makita track saw? Please? Does it do something specific for you that a standard circular saw won't- that you'll be doing day in, day out? That's about double or triple the typical cost Bad Munki posted:Or if you plan to use it to cut meat. That's probably not a good idea. He could do youtubes of different saws with meat and why they're a bad idea? "Now take this cordless DeWalt jigsaw, for example. You're in the field and have brought down a 12 point buck....
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Sep 17, 2015 16:24
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"Today we'll be reviewing the new Festool domino jig for the purpose of slicing bacon..."
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Sep 17, 2015 16:25
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Then you could put the animal back together with pocket hole screws and test them with a bathroom scale.
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Sep 17, 2015 17:10
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Zhentar posted:Can anyone tell me why I'm an idiot for thinking about buying the Makita track saw? Please? Most manufacturers design their tracks with a plastic edge that is cut off on the first use, making it a zero clearance edge for that specific blade. If you change blades, you'll have to guesstimate that 0.something mm in offset for your cuts. Meanwhile $5 in birch ply makes an excellent track and you can make a new one for $5 whenever you need to.
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Sep 17, 2015 17:25
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Squibbles posted:Does anyone know if hardware stores still carry tooth setting tools for hand saws? Or am I going to be stuck combing the used market for one? I've never seen one in a hardware store. They are all selling cheap disposable handsaw with induction hardened teeth that you can't even sharpen. I got lucky and found a Stanley 47X in a thrift store. I've seen saw sets occasionally at yard sales and estate sales but nothing very good. It looks like Tools for Working Wood and Highland Woodworking are both selling the same saw sets. I'd probably go with those over a used vintage saw set from eBay since it would likely cost the same or less, you get it sooner and it's not in an unknown working condition.
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Sep 17, 2015 17:44
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Mr. Mambold posted:He could do youtubes of different saws with meat and why they're a bad idea? "Now take this cordless DeWalt jigsaw, for example. You're in the field and have brought down a 12 point buck.... Your butcher uses a barely-modified bandsaw for a LOT of his work: http://www.webstaurantstore.com/18-1-2-x-70-1-2-floor-model-vertical-band-saw-with-98-blade-2-hp-220v/915B34.html
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Sep 17, 2015 22:10
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stealie72 posted:Your butcher uses a barely-modified bandsaw for a LOT of his work: http://www.webstaurantstore.com/18-1-2-x-70-1-2-floor-model-vertical-band-saw-with-98-blade-2-hp-220v/915B34.html . http://www.grizzly.com/search?sq=meat+saw Iirc, http://www.grizzly.com/products/Heavy-Duty-Benchtop-Meat-Cutting-Saw/G0770
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Sep 17, 2015 22:32
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I bought a coarse and a fine from TFWW after looking for quite a while at flea markets. They'll last at least one lifetime of hobby saw sharpening, so they're actually a decent deal. Plus the handle angles away from the saw more than a 47X, so if you have a chunky wooden saw vise like the one that I made, it works a little nicer. Of course, if you can find a used set, it's not like you need to have a brand new one. They've done the same job for a hundred years.
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Sep 17, 2015 22:41
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Hey tool thread. I just bought my first home, and will likely need good tools for home repair/upgrades and some light wood working (like a workbench, simple shelves, the standard 'babby's first cutting board', maybe eventually a kitchen table.) I'm wondering what I should start with. I've got an ok drill/driver, but that's it. I figure some sort of saw should be first, but should it be a table, circular, or mitre? Or maybe try to 'split the difference' between a table and mitre and try to snag a used radial arm saw? I see several on craigslist from $75-$200 all the time. I know they aren't all comparable, and that with a mitre I'd sacrifice the ability to rip and cut plywood for convenience, a table is the most versatile but most expensive, etc... But I'm just looking for some advice on a good starting point.
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Sep 18, 2015 00:13
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One Legged Ninja posted:I bought a coarse and a fine from TFWW after looking for quite a while at flea markets. They'll last at least one lifetime of hobby saw sharpening, so they're actually a decent deal. Plus the handle angles away from the saw more than a 47X, so if you have a chunky wooden saw vise like the one that I made, it works a little nicer. Thanks to both of you. Looks like Lee valley sells them too so I'll probably get one there. Now if only their saw file selection wasn't so barren
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Sep 18, 2015 00:36
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Welp they all have their strong points Circular & guide: kinda does it all at an okay rate, will not work with small pieces though. Miter: good for cutting 2x wood (construction lumber) and small boards okay for smaller pieces. Table: good for ripping long / wide pices to length. Pretty good with smaller pieces. If you want to do any cabinetry (furniture) add a router to your list. Radial arm: pretty good combo for table and miter.. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Sep 18, 2015 |
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Sep 18, 2015 00:36
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DrBouvenstein posted:Hey tool thread. Buy tools as you need them for the job at hand. Otherwise you end up accumulating toys that you don't ever actually use. You will need a saw though, yes, for any remotely significant woodworking. Way I see it, circular saws can do most tasks but are annoying to do setup for (they're also your only realistic option for cutting significant quantities of plywood). Mitre saws are great for crosscuts but can't do rip cuts at all. Table saws can do most tasks but crosscutting large members is a bad idea and they're also more easily made dangerous than other saws (chance of sending your workpiece into your face at 45MPH if you don't follow safety guidelines). Bandsaws can do ripcuts, curved cuts, and crosscuts of small pieces (typically not much wider than 13"), plus they can resaw boards if you're into that kind of thing. I'm building a workshop in my backyard, and these are the power tools I've used so far: * Mitre saw for cutting 2xs to length and putting angled cuts on things -- vital * Circular saw for cutting plywood -- vital * Bandsaw for various specialized 2xs (mostly the notched ones that support the gable rafters; could plausibly be replaced by a circular saw with some work) -- handy * Drill for pilot holes, boltholes to attach the sole plate to the slab, etc. -- vital * Pneumatic air nailer for securing plywood to 2xs -- very useful * Pneumatic palm nailer for awkward / tight locations where I can't swing a hammer -- very useful * Orbital tool for miscellaneous cuts -- handy * Router for trimming plywood around window openings (could be reasonably replaced with several other tools to do the same job though) -- handy
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Sep 18, 2015 01:35
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DrBouvenstein posted:Hey tool thread. Table saw is really the heart of a workshop imo. That said, I knew guys who swore by radial arm saws and would set them up to rip by turning the motor/blade assembly around 90 degrees and ripping from the back....not really something I'd recommend for babby tho. Most people only use them for cutting shelves to length, or dadoing as they have a limited draw. Also, radial arm saws had the rep for being the most dangerous tool in the shop as all your cuts are basically a climb cut (look it up) and need a very steady arm. You can do miter cuts with the miter gauge on the table saw, crosscuts.
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Sep 18, 2015 01:46
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Mr. Mambold posted:Table saw is really the heart of a workshop imo. Between my miter saw and my bandsaw, my tablesaw is now a fantastic shelf for my kid's bike trailer.
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Sep 18, 2015 01:56
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I sold my radial arm in favor of a table saw because it scared me when ripping wood. I also have a circular saw, band and miter so I didn't see the need for a 5th saw. With the radial you have 2 choices when it's 90 degrees and you are ripping. Feed from the back where it'll grab the wood and shoot it like a rocket. Feed from the front where kickback is a serious bitch. Radial arm saws aren't around very much any more.. there's a reason, other saws can do a better safer job IMO. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Sep 18, 2015 |
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Sep 18, 2015 02:00
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DrBouvenstein posted:Hey tool thread. A table saw isn't the most versatile, a circular saw is. Every other kind of spinning blade saw places restrictions on the movement of the blade relative to the material, in exchange for faster setup and better accuracy. A circular saw can do pretty much anything with enough patience and a jig. If someone is going to get one saw for a wide variety of tasks, it's hard to recommend anything else, even though any future saw purchase is going to be made just to avoid using it. A miter saw is pretty far down the convenience/limitation trade off. It's really good at a narrow range of cuts. Fantastic if you're working on a project with a ton of those cuts, like TooMuchAbstraction, but a terrible choice for an only saw when you want to get into woodworking.
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Sep 18, 2015 03:00
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The one saw I don't have a use for in my shop would be the miter saw. Having a sliding table for my table saw allows it to replace the miter saw pretty well, saving me space. A miter saw takes up a lot of room, no idea where I'd fit it in. Table saw, circular saw, band saw in that order for me.
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Sep 18, 2015 04:38
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I'll be contrary and say that a *sliding* mitre saw for cuts up to 12-14" wide and a circular saw (with a rip fence) for ripping are all you really need for a compact woodshop. A table saw is definitely better than either for a lot of work, but depending on your space/tasks may not really be as straightforward to use as the other two, and for minimal advantage. My order would be: Circular Saw Sliding Mitre Table Saw Depending on the types of tasks you find yourself doing.
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Sep 18, 2015 04:49
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I've heard that sliding mitre saws are tricky to dial in, and the extra moving parts of course add to the expense. Do you often need to make cuts wider than 8" or so? Because the circular saw can do crosscuts too, of course.
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Sep 18, 2015 04:51
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If I had to pick ONE powered saw, it'd be my bandsaw.
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Sep 18, 2015 04:55
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I've heard that sliding mitre saws are tricky to dial in, and the extra moving parts of course add to the expense. Do you often need to make cuts wider than 8" or so? Because the circular saw can do crosscuts too, of course. And they're bulkier. If you have need for a table saw anyways and are comfortable/confident with making straight cuts with a circular saw, then the slider is probably not worth it I would agree. Everyone is biased to personal experience though and given that that is my setup, I've been pretty happy with it so far -- although I tried to cut some dados with the slider and ended up with surprisingly inconsistent cut depths even with setting the depth stop properly.
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Sep 18, 2015 04:56
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Bad Munki posted:Or if you plan to use it to cut meat. That's probably not a good idea. It... didn't end well.
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Sep 18, 2015 04:58
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nmfree posted:A friend of mine tried butchering a deer with his table saw. Shoulda used a sliding miter
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Sep 18, 2015 05:00
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Hubis posted:I'll be contrary and say that a *sliding* mitre saw for cuts up to 12-14" wide and a circular saw (with a rip fence) for ripping are all you really need for a compact woodshop. A table saw is definitely better than either for a lot of work, but depending on your space/tasks may not really be as straightforward to use as the other two, and for minimal advantage. Replace "circular saw with a rip fence" with a track saw, and the miter saw is redundant.
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Sep 18, 2015 05:20
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Zhentar posted:Replace "circular saw with a rip fence" with a track saw, and the miter saw is redundant. That seems awkward for cutting non-sheet material, though? I mean by all means, convince me I need to buy a track saw... 
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Sep 18, 2015 05:29
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The secret to unlocking track saw potential is accessories that connect to the tracks. The Festool MFT/3 workbench has rails you connect the track to and adds a lot of small workshop friendly table saw equivalent functionality.
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Sep 18, 2015 06:11
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Tablesaws have more capabilities than any other powered saw. They also have greater precision. Next closest are probably hand held circular saws, then radial arm saws.
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Sep 18, 2015 08:19
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nmfree posted:A friend of mine tried butchering a deer with his table saw. Probably should have killed or drugged the deer first, less kickback
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Sep 18, 2015 15:03
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wormil posted:Tablesaws have more capabilities than any other powered saw. They also have greater precision. Next closest are probably hand held circular saws, then radial arm saws. They're also the scariest common power tool. I'm not saying others aren't dangerous, but they aren't typically as dangerous. It's a lot easier to make an unsafe cut on a table saw than on practically any other common tool.
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Sep 18, 2015 15:30
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:They're also the scariest common power tool. I'm not saying others aren't dangerous, but they aren't typically as dangerous. It's a lot easier to make an unsafe cut on a table saw than on practically any other common tool. Disagree. It gets down to familiarity, but consider that the circular saw is generally +- 2 HP rated in a very small tool comparatively speaking. Back when I started in 1971, my boss would point to some older carpenter at a given jobsite missing a few fingers; he explained that when the circular saw was first popularized by Skil, guys loved them but had no clue how easily they could buck out of control, or kickback, etc. And you'd see the idiot frame carpenters who invariably pinned the guard out of the way. I saw one yayhoo example of that where the saw trigger jammed and that fucker ran along the ground until the cord got tangled up. Now that guys (and girls) are more familar with them, plus the advances of modern surgery....
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Sep 18, 2015 15:57
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I've had hand held circ saws kickback but I've also built tables with them. Awhile back I found my jig to cut tapered legs.
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Sep 18, 2015 16:52
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