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Get a paintbrush, some more acetone and make it into a decorative feature imo
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Oct 24, 2015 00:54
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| # ? May 31, 2024 22:50 |
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Jigsaw and cut the corner off. It's dead to you anyway.
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Oct 24, 2015 01:54
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Take it to a car repair, I hear those are pretty good at matching new paint to old.
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Oct 24, 2015 02:02
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Just flip the table over so that side is down, nobody'll ever know.
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Oct 24, 2015 03:32
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mAlfunkti0n posted:I guess you COULD but it would be the most white trashy closet space I didn't realize you are building cabinets. BC plywood cabinetry will definitely be a step above white trash.
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Oct 24, 2015 04:49
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Zhentar posted:
Refinishing the whole thing wont be hard unless you hate sanding.
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Oct 24, 2015 22:46
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Zhentar posted:
If you're a dab hand with an airbrush, you know already what to do. Alternatively, the easiest quickie way is to get some oil based stain that's approximately that color and just dab it on the area. It won't penetrate wherever the lacquer is intact. It'll still show up, but be way less obvious.
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Oct 25, 2015 03:16
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So I am just getting into woodworking and getting some tools bought. I found these on craiglist, are they any good for the price? The last one looks beat up and it might need some work. I might be able to get a deal if I get a few of them together. https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/tls/5277007241.html https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/tls/5275872256.html https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/tls/5278716409.html All three look to be from an estate sale of something. There are few more that you can tell are from the same place, based on the background/list date/location.
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Oct 25, 2015 10:33
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I wouldn't pay that much for a #5 and I live in Australia, where tool prices are ludicrous.
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Oct 25, 2015 10:57
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Those are all on the high side for sure, seen if you can haggle any of them down at least ~30%
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Oct 25, 2015 13:43
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Mr. Mambold posted:If you're a dab hand with an airbrush, you know already what to do. Alternatively, the easiest quickie way is to get some oil based stain that's approximately that color and just dab it on the area. It won't penetrate wherever the lacquer is intact. It'll still show up, but be way less obvious. Yeah -- looking at it, I'd say the Watco Danish Oil Medium Walnut or Dark Walnut finish might work here. I'd wager it won't be an ideal match, but it might pass? e: you could sand a section of the underside of the table and then do some stain tests to see. Hubis fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Oct 25, 2015 |
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Oct 25, 2015 14:57
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Hubis posted:Yeah -- looking at it, I'd say the Watco Danish Oil Medium Walnut or Dark Walnut finish might work here. I'd wager it won't be an ideal match, but it might pass? It's got a little more red imo. If he has some red pigment (paint store may give you a dab) or a cherry stain, blend it with either of those. edit- but it looks like his camera tinted the pic red, so never mind adding red.
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Oct 25, 2015 15:03
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Mr. Mambold posted:It's got a little more red imo. If he has some red pigment (paint store may give you a dab) or a cherry stain, blend it with either of those. Is there any problem blending the Watco oils? I know they make a Cherry as well. Or could you just add an (oil based?) minwax to a bit of the Medium Walnut and mix it up?
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Oct 25, 2015 15:06
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Hubis posted:Is there any problem blending the Watco oils? I know they make a Cherry as well. Or could you just add an (oil based?) minwax to a bit of the Medium Walnut and mix it up? I never ran into a problem mixing them. Same basic formula for all the oil based 'danish' blends, so yeah.
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Oct 25, 2015 15:12
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Hubis posted:Yeah -- looking at it, I'd say the Watco Danish Oil Medium Walnut or Dark Walnut finish might work here. I'd wager it won't be an ideal match, but it might pass? Thanks for the suggestions. Taking out the leaf and testing on the bottom of it is a great idea. Mr. Mambold posted:It's got a little more red imo. If he has some red pigment (paint store may give you a dab) or a cherry stain, blend it with either of those. We picked out the table in part because it goes well with our cherry trim, so the red probably actually is there; I'll give blending a shot.
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Oct 25, 2015 17:38
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DevNull posted:So I am just getting into woodworking and getting some tools bought. I found these on craiglist, are they any good for the price? The last one looks beat up and it might need some work. I might be able to get a deal if I get a few of them together. English made Stanleys are the same quality as big box store Stanleys, which is to say they are only suitable for rough work and only after a lot of fiddling. You might as well buy a good quality US made vintage Stanley, same amount of fiddling but you end up with a higher quality plane.
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Oct 25, 2015 18:25
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Mr. Mambold posted:If you're a dab hand with an airbrush, you know already what to do. Alternatively, the easiest quickie way is to get some oil based stain that's approximately that color and just dab it on the area. It won't penetrate wherever the lacquer is intact. It'll still show up, but be way less obvious. That, or I've had good success restoring small scratches and damage to furniture using coloured wood oils like http://www.briwax.co.nz/Waxes.php. It's not perfect, but with a few applications it can be damned close. I'm feeling pretty satisfied with myself right now cos I got an old saw/buzzer (jointer I think it's called in the US?) second-hand and managed to create a guard for it out of various bits of metal which I've never worked with before. Less good was spending nearly as much as the cost of the machine on the blocks and blades for the buzzer, but hopefully if I take care of it they'll last me a while.
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Oct 25, 2015 20:36
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wormil posted:English made Stanleys are the same quality as big box store Stanleys, which is to say they are only suitable for rough work and only after a lot of fiddling. You might as well buy a good quality US made vintage Stanley, same amount of fiddling but you end up with a higher quality plane. Thanks, I'll keep looking around. There should be a fair amount of stuff to find in the northwest.
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Oct 25, 2015 21:09
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Keep hitting up estate sales. Eventually you will luck out and get all the planes you can want for like $5 a piece. Also try to find some woodworkers swap meets. Around here there is a store called woodcraft that hosts one twice a year and last time I picked up two nice japanese hand planes and a 1950's craftsman table saw for $50 plus some other stuff.
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Oct 26, 2015 01:47
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wormil posted:English made Stanleys are the same quality as big box store Stanleys, which is to say they are only suitable for rough work and only after a lot of fiddling. You might as well buy a good quality US made vintage Stanley, same amount of fiddling but you end up with a higher quality plane. That's a different take than from what I've read on the subject, my impression has been that vintage english stanleys are from all I've been able to find, considered on par with their US equivalents, for equal vintage anyway, US stanleys where made a lot earlier. But any stanley pre 60s sometime should be a quality plane. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Oct 26, 2015 |
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Oct 26, 2015 07:02
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What's the go-to guide on sharpening planes?
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Oct 26, 2015 08:09
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Cakefool posted:What's the go-to guide on sharpening planes? Paul Sellers has a good plane setup and sharpening video
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Oct 26, 2015 12:46
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Firing up the lathe again. It's been awhile but I've got a ton of rough outs ready to go now. Guess I'm in the position I wanted to be when I first started turning and constantly had to wait on things to dry.
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Oct 26, 2015 17:57
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At the hardware store today, after asking where they'd moved the jigsaw blades, the somewhat eager salesman tried to push downward cutting blades. His sales pitch? Those down cutting blades stop tear out on the top of the workpiece and they push the dust down, so you can better see your line. To me they seem pointless, why risk the saw jumping at you if the blade binds, rather than having it pull into the workpiece? Do these things have a legitimate use or is it just all marketing blah blah? They looked like regular T shank blades with the teeth the wrong way.
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Oct 26, 2015 21:26
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Deedle posted:At the hardware store today, after asking where they'd moved the jigsaw blades, the somewhat eager salesman tried to push downward cutting blades. His sales pitch? Those down cutting blades stop tear out on the top of the workpiece and they push the dust down, so you can better see your line. To me they seem pointless, why risk the saw jumping at you if the blade binds, rather than having it pull into the workpiece? Do these things have a legitimate use or is it just all marketing blah blah? They looked like regular T shank blades with the teeth the wrong way. The only things I've used them on that they are better for is cutting plastic laminate or 1/4" plywood that you don't want surface tearout. They're poo poo cutting 3/4" material because you'll push too hard and that sumbitch will buck.
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Oct 26, 2015 21:46
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His Divine Shadow posted:That's a different take than from what I've read on the subject, my impression has been that vintage english stanleys are from all I've been able to find, considered on par with their US equivalents, for equal vintage anyway, US stanleys where made a lot earlier. But any stanley pre 60s sometime should be a quality plane.
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Oct 27, 2015 00:57
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I'm working on my second real woodworking project, a pair of cutting boards I made out of bourbon barrel staves for some upcoming birthdays.  While I'm working on filling the remaining void, I'm considering getting some laser engraving done, but other than a birthday message on the underside, do you think a flourish of some sort on the cut end would look tacky? Woodcraft does small engravings on their laser cutter for $5 each.
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Oct 27, 2015 02:53
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I'm partway through building my first apartment workbench with hand tools, mostly odd tools I had laying around but I picked up a cheap pull saw that helped get some more precise cuts started. Since I'm just getting into it and am getting started on finding tools, I was hoping to get a good Stanley #5. Everyone talks about getting a quality old one (pre-ww2?). How do I tell if the ones I see on eBay or in garage sales are the quality ones I'm looking for?
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Oct 27, 2015 03:34
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Opioid posted:I'm partway through building my first apartment workbench with hand tools, mostly odd tools I had laying around but I picked up a cheap pull saw that helped get some more precise cuts started. If looking at garage sales look for clean, all parts there, personally I like them to have a non broken handle, and a blade that doesn't look like a rake. My smoother is a Stanely two tone. The low end Stanley. I bought it purely because it appeared to be in good shape because I didn't know anything about planes at the time. And it works great with a sharp blade! Basically, don't get hung up on dates or models. Look for usable. Those old planes are generally all built well.
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Oct 27, 2015 03:43
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Mr. Mambold posted:The only things I've used them on that they are better for is cutting plastic laminate or 1/4" plywood that you don't want surface tearout. They're poo poo cutting 3/4" material because you'll push too hard and that sumbitch will buck.
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Oct 27, 2015 04:00
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ChaoticSeven posted:Firing up the lathe again. It's been awhile but I've got a ton of rough outs ready to go now. Guess I'm in the position I wanted to be when I first started turning and constantly had to wait on things to dry. I love everything about this. Flawless finish. What lathe are you using these days? Still on the Delta or did you buy a PM?
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Oct 27, 2015 05:52
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wormil posted:Vintage English made Stanleys? They started being made in 1935 or so in england (e: I think). His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Oct 27, 2015 |
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Oct 27, 2015 06:02
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Deedle posted:So basically they're only for when you can't turn the workpiece over and/or you can't put a sacrificial piece on top. They seem awfully specialist blades to be pushing when asked for jigsaw blades. They're also good for when you've ruined your last standard blade and you don't want to drop everything to go to the hardware store, and there's a pack of 4 in the toolbox. They'll cut 3/4 material, just have to goslow
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Oct 27, 2015 15:02
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wormil posted:I love everything about this. Flawless finish. What lathe are you using these days? Still on the Delta or did you buy a PM? Thanks. I've had a PM for 4 years now I think. I still have the Delta midi though. I keep thinking I'll adapt the back room of the house into a midwinter pen milling area or something. I've just been off pens for awhile now however.
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Oct 27, 2015 18:04
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Opioid posted:I'm partway through building my first apartment workbench with hand tools, mostly odd tools I had laying around but I picked up a cheap pull saw that helped get some more precise cuts started. What kind of workbench do you have for an apartment? I would be interested in doing something like that instead of being stuck with shared workshop spaces until I have a bigger place.
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Oct 27, 2015 18:55
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DevNull posted:What kind of workbench do you have for an apartment? I would be interested in doing something like that instead of being stuck with shared workshop spaces until I have a bigger place. Building this one. Also, today I lucked out and my first day of looking for a plane someone posted a 1940s Stanley No 5 in great condition. I think I just have to fix up the blade a bit, there's a nick in it.   
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Oct 27, 2015 23:12
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His Divine Shadow posted:They started being made in 1935 or so in england (e: I think). Didn't know that, English made Stanleys started showing up in US stores in the 80s or early 90s and they were the same mediocre crap as post WWII US made planes.
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Oct 28, 2015 00:00
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The stance I've seen is that post ww2 uk planes are also inferior to pre-ww2 ones, but that they are still good planes until the 60s (after some fettling) after which the recommendation is avoid entirely. I have two UK planes a 5 and a 3½, a swedish 4 and a US #7 from 1900. I do think the 7 is one of the nicest performers, but it was fettled and restored by a friend who is a guru at hand tools. After that is the 3½ which I restored myself. The 4 I need to work on, the 5 as well, mainly sharpening. I'm hoping my little strip sander build will be good for sharpening chisels and planes.
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Oct 28, 2015 05:34
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ChaoticSeven posted:Thanks. I've had a PM for 4 years now I think. I still have the Delta midi though. I keep thinking I'll adapt the back room of the house into a midwinter pen milling area or something. I've just been off pens for awhile now however. Never had an interest in pens. I wouldn't mind turning one or a couple for gifts. Do you need a lot of special gear to make pens?
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Oct 28, 2015 06:05
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| # ? May 31, 2024 22:50 |
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wormil posted:Do you need a lot of special gear to make pens? Well, hello my friend, and welcome to woodworking...
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Oct 28, 2015 13:22
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