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I just got my hands on pigment powder, and will be trying out milk paint this weekend. I am cautiously optimistic, but I know that is the first step towards sorrow.
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Nov 24, 2015 15:50
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I picked this up on craigslist last weekend. For free. Guy said he was building a staircase in his house and a neighbor took the opportunity to unload this saw on him for free, and now that the staircase is done he figured he'd pass it along via craigslist. Finally got a chance to clean it and get it set up. http://imgur.com/a/i7jIh   The blade came in it, a fine tooth Diablo, and the guy also threw in a fine toothed 10" blade that fits my miter saw. Plus there's a power strip mounted to the other side of the cart. It had a ton of light surface rust, knocked it all off with a wire brush on my angle grinder and then covered with Johnson's Paste Waxtm. I took it all apart and cleaned it up and regreased it, it moves a lot nicer now. Took about 3 or 4 hours to get it all cleaned up. 1 horsepower, runs like a champ.
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Nov 26, 2015 21:15
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RadioPassive posted:1 horsepower, runs like a champ. These are really handsome saws when restored. Craftsman had the best looking machines back in the fifties.
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Nov 26, 2015 21:30
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What would be the best method of restoring the nicks out of this blade? I've only got hand tools and recently got a marble slab to glue some sandpaper on but have been considering grabbing one of those Lee Valley chisel sharpening guides and a stone or two if they'd help. 
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Nov 26, 2015 21:38
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Opioid posted:What would be the best method of restoring the nicks out of this blade? I've only got hand tools and recently got a marble slab to glue some sandpaper on but have been considering grabbing one of those Lee Valley chisel sharpening guides and a stone or two if they'd help. A grinder will speed up getting nicks out but is not required. I think the first chisel sharpening video talks about using sand paper to sharpen until you are able to afford proper stones
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Nov 26, 2015 21:51
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You can get rid of those by hand with some 80 grit on your slab and when they're gone you can keep sharpening to the finer grits. A grinder is fast but you have to pay attention to the tip temperature so you keep the heat treatment.
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Nov 27, 2015 03:39
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Opioid posted:What would be the best method of restoring the nicks out of this blade? I recently took the nicks out of a bunch of chisels and planes, I found the fastest way was just to ground it down flat and square with a stone and then put the edge back on it. A cheap try square and a cheap combination stone were all I needed. 
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Nov 27, 2015 04:01
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This is the correct answer. Sometime back I spent the day at another guy's shop while he spent the day trying to "sharpen" out a nick in the blade because he didn't want to ruin the edge. Get the nick out asap then sharpen. Personally I would use a grinder but to each their own.
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Nov 27, 2015 04:19
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Looks like grind it down wins. I've got a Dremel, maybe I can grind with that first? My biggest concern is getting the right angle when I'm putting the edge back on. Planes seem to require such precision to work well
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Nov 27, 2015 08:35
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For the angle I just measured how long the bevel was and then just kept decreasing my sharpening angle until I got close. Neither my plane nor the work I do with it are fancy though.
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Nov 27, 2015 12:14
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ChaoticSeven posted:I've never actually used a mandrel to turn a pen. I somehow started off the bat turning between centers with bushings. I don't like slimlines and am generally drawn to the looks of a single barrel pen so it was no great hardship not being able to do two blanks at once. From a while ago, but what kind of finish did you end up using for the cutting board? Asking because I think it looks great and have been considering doing a project like this as a gift.
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Nov 28, 2015 12:42
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This one had Mahooneys. I generally use that or mineral oil and wax mixture I combine myself.
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Nov 28, 2015 18:23
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FYI, Lee Valley's Cyber Monday sale starts tonight at midnight. The last few years, they've had "factory second" planes for deep, deep discounts. I've bought two in the last three years and they are phenomenal. The defects are usually small casting imperfections and in no way impact the function. This is the only time they sell those planes and they sell out fast. Last year I set an alarm for 11:55 to score the #4 I bought. They were sold out of those by 530am. I don't really need any planes this year but since I'm getting up at midnight for a different sale, I might check to see what they have.
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Nov 30, 2015 02:10
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Do you remember what the prices were like? I've been wanting a set of veritas spokeshaves and that shooting plane...
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Nov 30, 2015 03:21
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That reminds me. I currently have a Stanley (or Bailey) 4, 5, 6, 8, 220, sw 60 1/2, and a Shelton 14 (appears to be the same as a Stanley 5?) About half of them are pre-war vintage, except the sweetheart 60 1/2 which I bought new within the last decade. Am I missing anything major that I should be on the lookout for? The impending sale doesn't really help me because it sounds like they'll only ship to stores for that and I'm not in Canadaland, oh well. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Nov 30, 2015 |
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Nov 30, 2015 03:26
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Got a 14 tpi dovetail saw, router plane, and medium shoulder plane. Feel like I'm really moving up in the world with Vertias tools.
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Nov 30, 2015 06:21
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Getting a live centre for my tailstock, almost made a fire from the friction against the dead centre last night.
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Nov 30, 2015 07:36
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His Divine Shadow posted:Getting a live centre for my tailstock, almost made a fire from the friction against the dead centre last night. I don't think I've ever heard of using a dead centre in the tail stock. The only thing that's similar is a jacobs chuck and everything else spins. Live centre is a definite I'd say.
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Nov 30, 2015 09:07
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I got a pretty old lathe and it was a very basic design, but cast iron and steel all the way OTOH. Good thing it follows standards and I just needed a #1 Morse Taper part.
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Nov 30, 2015 09:35
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Milk paint status, surprisingly easy to make, given that I can just buy pre-made quark at any market. Problem, cat attempts to eat the paint, also, cobalt blue is stronger than anticipated. Just heard that the Stanley #8 I won on eBay is waiting at my grandmother's house in Michigan, am now excited to visit Michigan.
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Nov 30, 2015 11:54
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I just did two pieces side by side in linseed and tung oils, and I cannot tell the difference at all. Is there any?
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Dec 1, 2015 01:05
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:I don't think I've ever heard of using a dead centre in the tail stock.
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Dec 1, 2015 02:25
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I'm about to start the tricky bit in a cutting board project, namely, stacking three hardwood boards (purpleheart, cherry, sapele) on top of each other and running the stack through my 14" Grizzly bandsaw. The trick is that I need to be able to glue together pieces from disparate boards -- the goal is to make a checkerboard-style pattern, only with curves -- so each board needs to have identical cuts. I tried a test piece using some scrap 2x fir boards (so, cutting through 4.5" of material all told), and was nowhere near having the same cuts in each board; there's something that causes the blade to deflect significantly in the middle of the stack. I'm using a 1/2" Wood Slicer blade. It's probably dull; I'll be slotting in a replacement blade when I can. Besides that and making certain the blade is properly tensioned, any other recommendations for making certain the blade stays vertical while I do a curved cut out of a thick stack of wood? I've done this in the past with 2 boards layered on top of each other, so in principle I know it should be possible. I don't want to waste $40-odd worth of wood just because it "should" work, though.
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Dec 1, 2015 02:55
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wormil posted:Before live centers that's what people used. They need to be lubricated with wax. I used oil but it only made a lot of smoke.
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Dec 1, 2015 10:33
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Tung should give you a more durable, better drying surface than linseed, but not too big of a visual difference. what sort of tung oil was it, and how many layers did you apply?
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Dec 1, 2015 11:23
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Just two coats so far, using whatever tung oil was popular on Amazon. I'm gonna keep adding coats as this is a test piece and I want to see how it looks, but I was really surprised at how completely indistinguishable the two colors/finishes are even this early.
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Dec 1, 2015 18:47
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RadioPassive posted:Just two coats so far, using whatever tung oil was popular on Amazon. I'm gonna keep adding coats as this is a test piece and I want to see how it looks, but I was really surprised at how completely indistinguishable the two colors/finishes are even this early. You might want to check the actual makeup of your "tung oil" and "linseed oil" finishes. I know I have a can of "tung oil" that's really just a polyurethane finish with some tung oil added to it.
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Dec 1, 2015 19:03
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Unless it specifically requires you to thin it with white spirit or turpentine, t'aint tung.
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Dec 1, 2015 20:06
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm about to start the tricky bit in a cutting board project, namely, stacking three hardwood boards (purpleheart, cherry, sapele) on top of each other and running the stack through my 14" Grizzly bandsaw. The trick is that I need to be able to glue together pieces from disparate boards -- the goal is to make a checkerboard-style pattern, only with curves -- so each board needs to have identical cuts. How is it deflecting, what direction / orientation relative to blade? I'd expect some issues with your hardwood stack simply because of the difference in hardness between them (which I think could be prevented just by going really slowly), but obviously not with a single type of wood. Are you using double-sided tape or anything to hold the pieces together?
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Dec 1, 2015 20:24
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You might want to check the actual makeup of your "tung oil" and "linseed oil" finishes. I know I have a can of "tung oil" that's really just a polyurethane finish with some tung oil added to it. On mobile so I hope these work but: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002V4PF3K/ https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C016PG/ Pretty sure those are both the real thing, but good to know, I wasn't looking out for that. Free Market Mambo posted:Unless it specifically requires you to thin it with white spirit or turpentine, t'aint tung. Yeah, says to on the bottles, and I did. I had some mineral spirits left over from thinning paint for another job.
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Dec 1, 2015 20:38
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Solid, how many layers/applications have you done? Tung tends to build up a really nice luster after 3-5 applications. Long-term you should see some durability benefits compared to the BLO at least.
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Dec 1, 2015 20:53
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Can anyone recommend a good starting jointer and/or planer? Also is it worth having both? Seems like a jointer is best for, well, jointing. But a planer is nice to get consistent thickness
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Dec 1, 2015 21:03
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MickRaider posted:Can anyone recommend a good starting jointer and/or planer? If you're going to use the jointer, the planer is pretty much a must, there's not another easy way to make a wide board flat and with parallel sides. If you're not going to use a jointer, a planer can still be useful for, as you say, thicknessing. But it's more than possible to get by without either, particularly if you're not too bothered about using pre-cut wood and engineered wood.
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Dec 1, 2015 21:09
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You can also kind of replace a jointer with a router table jig: use a straight bit, then offset the outfeed fence so it matches the amount of material removed by the bit. It's not as good as an actual jointer (particularly if you want to joint material that's thicker than the length of your straight bit) but it does work, and you should prioritize a router table above either jointer or planer anyway.
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Dec 1, 2015 21:13
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Also, here's the end result of my milk paint odyssey. I blended up slaked lime, water, and quark, then mixed in slaked pigment powder (50% titanium white/50% cobalt blue, should have done 75% white, 25% blue, oh well), and let it sit for 30 minutes. Started on bare wood I'd prepared by planing to a decent finish, raising the grain with warm water, then sanding down with 320. I let each coat dry for 2-3 hours, then sanded with 400 grit and reapplied. The couple I'm building the tables for wants a worn look to the tables, so any imperfections are a bonus. After three coats, things looked acceptable, so I gave it a layer of tung oil and called it good.  The milk paint was super easy to put together once I tracked down a pigment source, I'll definitely be using it again in the future. Now I have a bunch of left over and will be making a set of blue rabbit-hurdles as a quick Christmas gift
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Dec 1, 2015 21:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You can also kind of replace a jointer with a router table jig: use a straight bit, then offset the outfeed fence so it matches the amount of material removed by the bit. It's not as good as an actual jointer (particularly if you want to joint material that's thicker than the length of your straight bit) but it does work, and you should prioritize a router table above either jointer or planer anyway. I did get a router table from a garage sale, it's not great but it should do the trick. Like you said, it works as a jointer for material thinner than my router bits, which aren't very long. I think I'll stick with looking for a planer first then trying to get jointer later down the line. Ideally I'd like to not be reliant on pre-cut wood Right now I'm eyeing either the single speed or two-speed dewalt. The delta seems alright as well but amazon recently took it off prime and the only sellers left jacked it to 400 for some dumb reason. Any other brands to consider? MickRaider fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Dec 1, 2015 |
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Dec 1, 2015 21:25
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Free Market Mambo posted:Solid, how many layers/applications have you done? Tung tends to build up a really nice luster after 3-5 applications. Long-term you should see some durability benefits compared to the BLO at least. Just 2 layers so far, I'll get a few more on this week. Is 24 hours long enough to wait between applications or should I give it longer? Being test pieces, I'm just going to keep recoating to see where it goes. Good to know that more coats should improve things. MickRaider posted:Right now I'm eyeing either the single speed or two-speed dewalt. The delta seems alright as well but amazon recently took it off prime and the only sellers left jacked it to 400 for some dumb reason. Any other brands to consider? Have you checked Craigslist and are you ok with buying used? I got a 6" craftsman jointer for $150 and a delta portable 12" thickness planer for $120, both my first of each tool. They needed a little cleanup and I put fresh blades in, but as a first jointer/planer combo I'm enjoying them very well so far. RadioPassive fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Dec 1, 2015 |
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Dec 1, 2015 21:51
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MickRaider posted:I did get a router table from a garage sale, it's not great but it should do the trick. Like you said, it works as a jointer for material thinner than my router bits, which aren't very long. You can joint out material up to 2x the length of your bit. Do one pass with the fence not offset at all, then flip the piece over and do the other pass with the offset in place. It'll be more obvious if your fence offset doesn't precisely match the amount of material you're removing, but odds are it'll just be a 1/64th inch or something and you can just sand it down.
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Dec 1, 2015 22:08
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RadioPassive posted:Have you checked Craigslist and are you ok with buying used? I got a 6" craftsman jointer for $150 and a delta portable 12" thickness planer for $120, both my first of each tool. They needed a little cleanup and I put fresh blades in, but as a first jointer/planer combo I'm enjoying them very well so far. TooMuchAbstraction posted:You can joint out material up to 2x the length of your bit. Do one pass with the fence not offset at all, then flip the piece over and do the other pass with the offset in place. It'll be more obvious if your fence offset doesn't precisely match the amount of material you're removing, but odds are it'll just be a 1/64th inch or something and you can just sand it down. I see what you're saying. Seems like something i'd screw up on though 
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Dec 2, 2015 00:32
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There are lots of non-jointer ways to joint stock: Edge jointing on a router table with a straight bit and split fence Edge jointing on a table saw with a sled and hold-down toggle clamps Face jointing with a router using rails and a sled (they use this method a lot on large slabs) Face jointing with a planer sled using wedges I think a planer is a lot more important for most people, but y'all can feel free to disagree. I don't have a jointer, so I use the table saw sled for edge jointing and the planer sled for face jointing. You can use the router rail/sled setup for planing, too, but it takes a long time and makes a huge mess. I would love to pick up a decent-sized jointer at some point, but I also have a pathological aversion to spending lots of money / buying new tools at full price. Most of the machines I own are either floor-model discounts or used from CL.
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Dec 2, 2015 01:19
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