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Antifreeze Head
Jun 6, 2005

It begins
Pillbug

Molentik posted:

Awesome!

Maybe you can make the springs in metal by wrapping some iron wire over a screw?

Depending on the size needed, you might be able to liberate one from a mechanical pencil or click-type pen.

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Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord

Molentik posted:

Looking very good!

In other news, Trumpeter announced a Type VII Uboat at the Nurmberg Toy Fair...

In 1/48....

With full interior....


Who wants to buy one of my kidneys? Only slightly worn from use, but still great value!

e: pics http://www.primeportal.net/models/nuremberg_2016.htm

Where did you find this info? Are there pictures?

Molentik
Apr 30, 2013

COOL CORN posted:

Where did you find this info? Are there pictures?

Check the link in my post for some (crappy) pictures. The Uboat is on page 8 of the Trumpeter section.

Also, T-72 with full interior in 1/16 :kingsley:

Molentik fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Jan 28, 2016

Sultan Tarquin
Jul 29, 2007

and what kind of world would it be? HUH?!
The website is very broken like all good hobby enthusiast websites are.

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord



Yesssss oh my god

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

Antifreeze Head posted:

Depending on the size needed, you might be able to liberate one from a mechanical pencil or click-type pen.

Those would be too small, sadly. Also I already finished this bogey, might as well do the rest.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Ok, so after months of looking, I ended up getting a used airbrush (Paasche H Series) and compressor (w/ regulator and moisture trap) from a friend on the supercheap. I finally got to use the thing yesterday to do some metallic basecoats on a Gundam, but I'm getting what I think is referred to as "orange peel." I'm using Vallejo model air, running around 20psi with no thinner in the paint. Also, is it normal for the psi to drop when actually using the airbrush?

Triggerhappypilot
Nov 8, 2009

SVMS-01 UNION FLAG GREATEST MOBILE SUIT

ENACT = CHEAP EUROTRASH COPY




COOL CORN posted:




Yesssss oh my god

welp, that's gonna put a hole in my wallet.

Molentik
Apr 30, 2013

Triggerhappypilot posted:

welp, that's gonna put a hole in my wallet.

Well, it can't be more expensive than the Revell 1/72 version with all of CMK's resin interior sets. Those combined will set you back some 500...

Nebakenezzer
Sep 13, 2005

The Mote in God's Eye

Triggerhappypilot posted:

welp, that's gonna put a hole in my wallet.

You know it's big when it makes the 1/350 Aircraft Carrier on the table look small.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

EdsTeioh posted:

Ok, so after months of looking, I ended up getting a used airbrush (Paasche H Series) and compressor (w/ regulator and moisture trap) from a friend on the supercheap. I finally got to use the thing yesterday to do some metallic basecoats on a Gundam, but I'm getting what I think is referred to as "orange peel." I'm using Vallejo model air, running around 20psi with no thinner in the paint. Also, is it normal for the psi to drop when actually using the airbrush?

Yeah, the operating pressure will be lower than the idle pressure on the compressor. So if you want to shoot at 20 psi, adjust the regulator to that pressure while holding down the trigger on the airbrush.

As for the orange peel, your paint might be partially drying in mid-air before it hits the model. You can get retarders and slo-dri mediums to add to the paint to slow down the drying process, but for now you may want to just add a drop of dish detergent to your paint mix and trying shooting that and see if you get no orange-peel. Also don't shoot from too far away; about six inches is ideal. Obviously you can get closer or farther away depending on the detail you need and what effects you might be going for, but for wide basecoats and the like about six inches is best.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Yeah, the operating pressure will be lower than the idle pressure on the compressor. So if you want to shoot at 20 psi, adjust the regulator to that pressure while holding down the trigger on the airbrush.

As for the orange peel, your paint might be partially drying in mid-air before it hits the model. You can get retarders and slo-dri mediums to add to the paint to slow down the drying process, but for now you may want to just add a drop of dish detergent to your paint mix and trying shooting that and see if you get no orange-peel. Also don't shoot from too far away; about six inches is ideal. Obviously you can get closer or farther away depending on the detail you need and what effects you might be going for, but for wide basecoats and the like about six inches is best.

Awesome, thanks very much! I'll give that a shot. I'm not sure how it works in airbrushing, but I know I've had issues with metallics drying out WAY too fast in the past. Also, semi-related: If you're wanting to do chip effects, it's best to glosscoat as opposed to mattecoat, correct? To clarify, if I want a base silver, then chipped up whatever over that, I'd go primer>>silver>>glosscoat>>(salt method)>>red>>(remove salt)>>seal, correct?

Molentik
Apr 30, 2013

EdsTeioh posted:

Awesome, thanks very much! I'll give that a shot. I'm not sure how it works in airbrushing, but I know I've had issues with metallics drying out WAY too fast in the past. Also, semi-related: If you're wanting to do chip effects, it's best to glosscoat as opposed to mattecoat, correct? To clarify, if I want a base silver, then chipped up whatever over that, I'd go primer>>silver>>glosscoat>>(salt method)>>red>>(remove salt)>>seal, correct?

I find that the salt sticks better to mattecoat, but it's all matter of preference really.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
First though, if you're putting a gloss coat over metallics, make sure it's a gloss that's specifically made for overcoating metallics. Standard glosses will completely kill the shine on a metallic finish, and turn a polished chrome into a dull silver. I believe Model Master and Alclad both make gloss top coats that will keep the metallic lustre of their paints. Not sure about Gunze's stuff though.

Saying that, for chipping, using a gloss or a matte depends on the effects you want to do, especially if you're using the hairspray method. If you put your salt mix or hairspray over a gloss coat, the top layer of paint will come away much easier than if you put those over a matte coat. So if you want big messy chips, then go over gloss. If you want smaller, more jagged chips, go over a matte coat. I prefer the hairspray method myself, as your entire surface becomes potentially chippable, whereas with the salt method you're only going to get chips where you put the salt. I find the salt method looks a little speckly too, and less like a coherent map of chips and rust.

The sequence you have there for doing chipping is the correct order to do it as well.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Is the hairspray method different that the salt method? I thought you used them together?

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




Molentik posted:

Check the link in my post for some (crappy) pictures. The Uboat is on page 8 of the Trumpeter section.

Also, T-72 with full interior in 1/16 :kingsley:

I see a JS-1, a JSU-152, an Object 268, a KV-220, a KV-5, Vickers Mk.1, and T-18, and I'm wondering if they're just trying to cash in on a popular video game. Which I would in no way complain about.

NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jan 28, 2016

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
Salt-method is just putting clumps of wet salt onto the model, and then painting over. Hairspray method is coating the whole area to be chipped in hairspray (or purpose made chipping fluid), and then painting over.

I guess you could use both together, but it seems like it might be overkill and you'd end up stripping too much paint off in the end.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Salt-method is just putting clumps of wet salt onto the model, and then painting over. Hairspray method is coating the whole area to be chipped in hairspray (or purpose made chipping fluid), and then painting over.

I guess you could use both together, but it seems like it might be overkill and you'd end up stripping too much paint off in the end.

Oh, I see. For some reason, I was under the impression that you used the hairspray to adhere the salt to the model itself. So essentially, the hairspray layer makes itself chippable as it were?

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

NTRabbit posted:

I see a JS-1, a JSU-152, an Object 268, a KV-220, a KV-5, Vickers Mk.1, and T-18, and I'm wondering if they're just trying to cash in on a popular video game. Which I would in no way complain about.
You mean like Italeri did? TBH the games did great things for model making by bringing more obscure designs into the public eye. I'd never have bought half of the weird stuff I own now if I didn't play all kinds of terrible tank arena shooters.

They actually did a Himmelsdorf diorama kit too. They're ramping up to cash in directly.
VVVV

Arquinsiel fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Jan 28, 2016

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




Arquinsiel posted:

You mean like Italeri did? TBH the games did great things for model making by bringing more obscure designs into the public eye. I'd never have bought half of the weird stuff I own now if I didn't play all kinds of terrible tank arena shooters.

Yeah Italeri just had a partnership, stuck the logo on boxes, some codes in boxes, and used a few already common kits like the Tiger. I know hobbyists love them some obscure poo poo, but the Object 268 is pretty far out there, has to be the inspiration. ARK has a JS-7 as well, though I can't tell if the display is for the whole kit, or just some resin upgrades for someone else's kit.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

EdsTeioh posted:

Oh, I see. For some reason, I was under the impression that you used the hairspray to adhere the salt to the model itself. So essentially, the hairspray layer makes itself chippable as it were?

Yeah, the hairspray acts as a water-soluble layer between your top-coat and your bottom-coat. Once you apply the hairspray, wait about an hour, and then liberally apply water to the area to be chipped. The water will soften the hairspray underneath, and then you can use a brush or a toothpick to start chipping away the top layer of paint.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

NTRabbit posted:

Yeah Italeri just had a partnership, stuck the logo on boxes, some codes in boxes, and used a few already common kits like the Tiger. I know hobbyists love them some obscure poo poo, but the Object 268 is pretty far out there, has to be the inspiration. ARK has a JS-7 as well, though I can't tell if the display is for the whole kit, or just some resin upgrades for someone else's kit.

There are companies who lifted wholesale tanks that were entirely or almost entirely made up by Wargaming, earning the wrath of the legal department.

jadebullet
Mar 25, 2011


MY LIFE FOR YOU!
Some of those Hasegawa kits look drat nice. UN Hind, a Francis, a Condor Legion 2 pack? Yes please.

Edit: Someone please talk me out of building this in 1/72.

jadebullet fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Jan 29, 2016

Nebakenezzer
Sep 13, 2005

The Mote in God's Eye

Ensign Expendable posted:

There are companies who lifted wholesale tanks that were entirely or almost entirely made up by Wargaming, earning the wrath of the legal department.

Trumpeter are doing a JS-4 and a JS-7 in 1/72, not sure if these are the intellectual property of Wargaming

e:

jadebullet posted:

Some of those Hasegawa kits look drat nice. UN Hind, a Francis, a Condor Legion 2 pack? Yes please.

Edit: Someone please talk me out of building this in 1/72.


If you did it in 1/72 the wingspan would be over a meter in length! Where would you put it?! (Like that?)

Let me just quote myself in another thread:

Nebakenezzer posted:

To get away from Lost chat just for a moment: I discovered something very AI.

A week or so ago in the scale model thread, somebody posted this link to a searchable database of nearly all model kits ever made, past and present:

http://www.scalemates.com/products/

This is pretty drat useful to the builders of small plastic things, as it allows you to see if the molds are of recent make or dating from the 1970s from a defunct manufacturer (like my Owl.) It can tell you if you can buy a high quality Hasegwasa J 35 Drakken at half the price from a Revell rebox, and it's also useful if you want to build something esoteric, (like say, an Avro Shackleton), because it can show you the mold is still in production by Eastern Express.

Anyway, I went searching for a perennial favorite of this thread, the B-36. I knew Canada's lone (and now barely existing) kitmaker actually makes a 1/144 B-36, and I wanted to see if it was somebody else's mold. Anyway, I found that, but I also found that Monogram/Revell makes a B-36 as well, in 1/72. :stare:

Now 1/72 is the 'small' scale for most aircraft kits, but a B-36 in 1/72 is still friggin' gigantic. It was last reboxed and re-released in 2003, and on the front it gives the kit's dimensions: 73 cm long, and 97 cm wide; nearly a full meter wingspan.



Just in case you needed an image to explain 'how big a B-36' is.


Or this image. The B-52 and Gato Class submarine behind the B-36 are the same scale.:psyduck:


A kit interior of a B-36 or the front part of the Firefly set? You be the judge.


Later B-36s were anti-flash white below.


Hanging is probably the only real way to display it, given the kit's shelf-busting dimensions.


Swedish maker poses with his creation.

Nebakenezzer fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Jan 29, 2016

jadebullet
Mar 25, 2011


MY LIFE FOR YOU!
My uncle actually built that kit. He ended up finding out that the instructions for it have the landing gear backwards or something like that.

But yeah, I know how big it is, and I know I don't have the room at all for it. But man that paint job and cockpit on the nuclear powered B-36 looks sweet. Thankfully there are not decals for it, and I don't think anyone has made a replacement cockpit in 1/72.

Edit: Showed my fiancee. She had two reactions. The first was asking me if it comes with the man with the googly eyes. When I told her it didn't, all she said was "no." I didn't even tell her that I wanted to build it. :D

jadebullet fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Jan 29, 2016

ass struggle
Dec 25, 2012

by Athanatos
kit arrived in good shape. Almost passed out from paint fumes but besides that it was a good start for the MiG-21

Unkempt
May 24, 2003

...perfect spiral, scientists are still figuring it out...
Sure, the B-17 isn't as big as the 36, but HK models do one in 1/32.



If I've got my maths right that's a 99cm wingspan.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

Nebakenezzer posted:

Trumpeter are doing a JS-4 and a JS-7 in 1/72, not sure if these are the intellectual property of Wargaming

I'm talking about stuff like the VK 72.01 (K).

jadebullet
Mar 25, 2011


MY LIFE FOR YOU!

Unkempt posted:

Sure, the B-17 isn't as big as the 36, but HK models do one in 1/32.

If I've got my maths right that's a 99cm wingspan.

When I was looking on Scalemates, part of me was kind of disappointed that no company has had the balls to make a 1/48 scale B-36

No Pun Intended
Jul 23, 2007

DWARVEN SEX OFFENDER

ASK ME ABOUT TONING MY FINE ASS DWARVEN BOOTY BY RUNNING FROM THE COPS OUTSIDE THAT ELF KINDERGARTEN

BEHOLD THE DONG OF THE DWARVES! THE DWARVEN DONG IS COMING!

NTRabbit posted:

I see a JS-1, a JSU-152, an Object 268, a KV-220, a KV-5, Vickers Mk.1, and T-18, and I'm wondering if they're just trying to cash in on a popular video game. Which I would in no way complain about.

Where did you spy the T-18?

jadebullet
Mar 25, 2011


MY LIFE FOR YOU!
Speaking of weird prototypes, has any company ever built an Mi-28 prototype?

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




No Pun Intended posted:

Where did you spy the T-18?

Trumpeter page 5, both it and the Vickers Medium Mk.1 are in a bare plastic, partly assembled state.

No Pun Intended
Jul 23, 2007

DWARVEN SEX OFFENDER

ASK ME ABOUT TONING MY FINE ASS DWARVEN BOOTY BY RUNNING FROM THE COPS OUTSIDE THAT ELF KINDERGARTEN

BEHOLD THE DONG OF THE DWARVES! THE DWARVEN DONG IS COMING!
I was thinking of a T18 and got very excited, I must remember the dash. However seeing the Vickers Mark 1 makes me a very happy goon.

Gervasius
Nov 2, 2010



Grimey Drawer
1/200 HMS Hood. Holy poo poo :homebrew:

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!
Nnnnh, all this talk about huge kits makes me want to build one. But there is nowhere in my three room apartment where my wife would be ok with me keeping it. :(

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




lilljonas posted:

Nnnnh, all this talk about huge kits makes me want to build one. But there is nowhere in my three room apartment where my wife would be ok with me keeping it. :(

How much space does your wife take up? :coffeepal:

No Pun Intended posted:

I was thinking of a T18 and got very excited, I must remember the dash. However seeing the Vickers Mark 1 makes me a very happy goon.

T-18 is the variant of MS-1 that is the Soviet tier 1 tank

NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 12:34 on Jan 29, 2016

Greyhawk
May 30, 2001


lilljonas posted:

Nnnnh, all this talk about huge kits makes me want to build one. But there is nowhere in my three room apartment where my wife would be ok with me keeping it. :(

I am at this moment building a 1:1 scale model of this apothecaries cupboard. It is exactly one 1:200 HMS Hood long and will serve to store all those tools and parts and unfinished assemblies flying around. It also doesn't look like an engineers toolbox, which is helpful with wife approval.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Greyhawk posted:

I am at this moment building a 1:1 scale model of this apothecaries cupboard. It is exactly one 1:200 HMS Hood long and will serve to store all those tools and parts and unfinished assemblies flying around. It also doesn't look like an engineers toolbox, which is helpful with wife approval.



I keep most of my things in an old secretaire that my grandmother's father built. That way I can at least shove things into it and close the lid if we get guests (I'm building my poo poo in my "nerd corner", a.k.a small spot behind the sofa in our living room).

Smoke
Mar 12, 2005

I am NOT a red Bumblebee for god's sake!

Gun Saliva

lilljonas posted:

Nnnnh, all this talk about huge kits makes me want to build one. But there is nowhere in my three room apartment where my wife would be ok with me keeping it. :(

Kinda the same problem for me. I do have a Revell 1:144 Airbus A350-900 kit ready to be built though, but that's relatively small compared to this stuff(50cm wingspan and length) It's also why I've mostly stuck to 1:144 fighters and the occasional 1:72 helicopter(and a bunch of 1:24 cars)

I'm already running out of shelf space, but my girlfriend has built a few display cases for me, which should free up some space. Still wanna build something nice and big though.

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Molentik
Apr 30, 2013

Space limitation is one of the reasons I haven't build my 1/6 Schwimmwagen yet :(

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