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Ensign Expendable posted:Fit-wise, I've never had a bad experience with Tamiya. They might gently caress up the historical details or have gross motorization holes and extremely bland vinyl tracks on "new" kits, but they always go together well and assemble into a good looking model that looks perfectly fine to most people. Please note that almost all of Tamiya's jet models are Italeri models that are reboxed for the Japanese market. For why this is important, see the Revell Blackhawk above. The F-16 is pure Tamiya though.
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# ? Mar 7, 2016 21:11 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 07:28 |
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Gah, drat reboxes. Thankfully scalemates exists.
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# ? Mar 7, 2016 21:48 |
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Baronjutter posted:Finished the last of my ballasting. Other than a few touch ups I'll have to do after making a few crossings, I'm done. I like how the hand-painted old ties turned out.
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# ? Mar 7, 2016 22:30 |
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makka-setan posted:This is the Revell UH-60A Black Hawk (04940). Don't build this kit. This warning applies to a lot of Revell helicopters. They tend to rebox old kits and hope nobody will notice. I'm pretty sure 90% of their current offering as far as helicopters go is some kind of rebox(and I'm 100% sure about the civilian 'copters on their site)
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# ? Mar 7, 2016 23:05 |
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I'm guessing the writing on top of the rotor blades says something like "If you can read this you are unbelievably hosed. Sorry."
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# ? Mar 8, 2016 00:15 |
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Cartoon posted:I'm guessing the writing on top of the rotor blades says something like "If you can read this you are unbelievably hosed. Sorry." I imagine this printed on random fiddly bits all over military aircraft. Ensign Expendable posted:Fit-wise, I've never had a bad experience with Tamiya. They might gently caress up the historical details or have gross motorization holes and extremely bland vinyl tracks on "new" kits, but they always go together well and assemble into a good looking model that looks perfectly fine to most people. Seconding this. I'm working on a T-55A, and...well, there's nothing like lovingly washing and dry brushing a part only to realize the instructions are wrong and the fucker is supposed to be green. The box has the right color, but the instructions clearly say "khaki." It's a really nice kit as far as fit, molding, and quality of instructions from a construction standpoint. Edit: here's the whole (partially weathered) tank, just for the hell of it. VVV thaaaanks Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Mar 8, 2016 |
# ? Mar 8, 2016 00:24 |
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I've seen that be wrong so many times that I don't even bother with the manual half the time and just look for reference photos. That's a sweet looking dust cover though.
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# ? Mar 8, 2016 00:35 |
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Did you dry brush the whole thing? What green did you use? Looks like what I want on my T-72A. What primer/coats did you use to get it? Warbadger fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Mar 8, 2016 |
# ? Mar 8, 2016 05:58 |
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Warbadger posted:Did you dry brush the whole thing? What green did you use? I used US Navy gray primer, with pre-shading in German dunkelgrau. Then several layers of really thinned down Soviet green, followed by gloss coat, then a wash of really dark brown in the grooves/books/crannies. Tires are a mix of black and this weird rubber color I don't remember buying. I haven't done any further detail work on the hull (dry brushing, etc) because I'm pretty happy with how it's come out up to this point and I'm afraid of loving it up, but it'll at least get some dirt pigments. Or possibly actual dirt from my back yard. All the paints are Vallejo. The clear coat is a weird mix of Vallejo and Testors because I was really drunk. Sidenote: I seem to have lost the goddamn tracks. Guess I'm going aftermarket. Edit: added picture from partway through the pre-shading Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Mar 8, 2016 |
# ? Mar 8, 2016 12:23 |
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My next kit is the 1/48 Zvedza Bf-109F4. It comes with decals for JG54. Any suggestions on a relatively simple but attractive paint scheme? I'm still...pretty poor with the airbrush and haven't ever done a camo scheme before.
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# ? Mar 8, 2016 20:32 |
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Flat gray can look just as nice as any other camo scheme. I'm not sure if that's historically accurate for the Luftwaffe though.
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# ? Mar 8, 2016 20:38 |
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The Krauts love splinter camo, with is something you can do quite effectively with some tape carefully cut.
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# ? Mar 8, 2016 20:38 |
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I think I'd like to do a field scheme from the East...maybe something like this: Is that going to be too much for me to handle?
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# ? Mar 8, 2016 20:50 |
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Here's what the layout looks like as of now. Ballasting done, city deck installed, ramp in. Not a lot more I can do without a L.A.S.E.R. (cutting anything by hand is not for me)
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# ? Mar 8, 2016 20:55 |
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bewbies posted:I think I'd like to do a field scheme from the East...maybe something like this: The 109's pretty much all used the same splinter camo pattern on the wings throughout the war. The JG.3 used some cool schemes on their F4 on the eastern front. For the railheads, I found a cool google streetview kinda thing of a big rail layout in Germany https://www.google.com/maps/about/behind-the-scenes/streetview/treks/miniatur-wunderland/ Molentik fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Mar 8, 2016 |
# ? Mar 8, 2016 21:02 |
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bewbies posted:I think I'd like to do a field scheme from the East...maybe something like this:
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# ? Mar 8, 2016 21:17 |
Baronjutter posted:Here's what the layout looks like as of now. Ballasting done, city deck installed, ramp in. Not a lot more I can do without a L.A.S.E.R. (cutting anything by hand is not for me) Is this N scale or HO? I can't tell on sight yet.
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# ? Mar 8, 2016 21:38 |
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bewbies posted:I think I'd like to do a field scheme from the East...maybe something like this: Blobs--soft-edged or hard--can be accomplished using silly putty as a stencil. I'll post an example momentarily. Edit: You literally just shape the putty into an irregularly shaped pancake and lay it onto the model's surface. You can also shape it into a ribbon and snake it around the outside of the area you want to paint, using the outside edge to hold down cellophane from the model's packaging or cut up trash bag. See the green blob under the number? The right edge of that blob is what you get if you carefully press down the edges of the blob so it "seals." The left edge, and the fuzzy red blob underneath, are what you get if you don't do seal. This is sometimes desirable. It wasn't here; I just wasn't paying attention. Protip: Sealing the edge is easier the thinner the putty is. Peel off the silly putty before the paint has fully dried and set, and wash it off with hand soap. Then fold it over itself and pop the tiny bubbles while the paint dries. Also consider balling it up and bouncing it off stuff. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Mar 8, 2016 |
# ? Mar 8, 2016 21:58 |
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Mr. Powers posted:Is this N scale or HO? I can't tell on sight yet. N, no way I could fit a loop in HO.
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# ? Mar 8, 2016 22:47 |
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Blobs--soft-edged or hard--can be accomplished using silly putty as a stencil. I'll post an example momentarily. Huh, I never thought about not sealing the edge to make a gradient. Looks like I know how I'm painting my next German tank!
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# ? Mar 8, 2016 23:21 |
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Ensign Expendable posted:Huh, I never thought about not sealing the edge to make a gradient. Looks like I know how I'm painting my next German tank! Glad someone could benefit from my mistakes.
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# ? Mar 8, 2016 23:26 |
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Blobs--soft-edged or hard--can be accomplished using silly putty as a stencil. I'll post an example momentarily. So this seems simple enough. For the 109, what I'm thinking: 1. Spray the entire thing forest green. 2. Mask off the bottom with "unsealed" putty and spray the white 3. Mask off the fuselage blobs with "unsealed" putty and spray the blobs 4. Mask off the nose and tail with tape and spray flat yellow Does that look right or should I do things a different way? edit - and prior to step 1, pre-shade panel lines with flat black.... bewbies fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Mar 9, 2016 |
# ? Mar 9, 2016 14:46 |
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I'd start with the lightest colour, so underside first (which I'm pretty sure should be whichever RLM number is pale blue).
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 14:55 |
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bewbies posted:So this seems simple enough. For the 109, what I'm thinking: You've got it mostly right, but I would spray the RLM78 on the underside first, since forest green is pretty dark and will show through unless you spray so thick to destroy your preshade work.
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 15:07 |
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Unkempt posted:I'd start with the lightest colour, so underside first (which I'm pretty sure should be whichever RLM number is pale blue). This. Also, that yellow should maybe be done second and taped off, because trying to paint yellow over anything but very light neutral colors is... unpleasant.
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 15:20 |
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Blue Footed Booby posted:This. Also, that yellow should maybe be done second and taped off, because trying to paint yellow over anything but very light neutral colors is... unpleasant. I've seen people go as far as paint the yellow areas white first, and then paint the yellow over it. Something about yellow paint being fairly translucent.
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 16:13 |
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Nebakenezzer posted:I've seen people go as far as paint the yellow areas white first, and then paint the yellow over it. Something about yellow paint being fairly translucent. The miniatures thread groupthink is white->yellow-brown->yellow I think. I prefer white undercoat myself...
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 16:22 |
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Jonny Nox posted:The miniatures thread groupthink is white->yellow-brown->yellow I think. I prefer white undercoat myself...
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 17:08 |
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Blue Footed Booby posted:This. Also, that yellow should maybe be done second and taped off, because trying to paint yellow over anything but very light neutral colors is... unpleasant. Yep it looks like that's how most pros do this sort of thing. So I'll do white undercoat, then pre-shade black panel lines, then spray the yellow with RLM04. Then hard mask the yellow, and spray green (RLM62?), soft mask and spray RLM78 on the bottom, then soft mask and spray dark green (RLM70?) as the blobs. Is that the right way to go?
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 17:10 |
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I'm building a Panzer IV Ausf. D, currently just modulated. The most important thing, though, is in the background. Try to guess what it is!
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 17:49 |
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Is it the robot looking thing? Are you building a diorama like so:
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 17:53 |
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Luck strikes! I ordered a noname 0.4mm nozzle and needle for cheap chinese airbrushes and lo and behold it fit my old noname cheap chinese airbrush. There are a million different brand names but it seems there is some standardization, or all of them are made by the same company. Hopefully the 0.4mm nozzle will help spraying primers and varnishes that the 0.2mm needs buckets of thinners for. I also spruced up the base for my AT-ST. White glue with sprinkled gravel of varying size then a bucket load of gloss varnish with a bit of soap to soak into the sand. Then some green, brown and black paint to highlight certain areas. Some matt varnish and done. I was going to glue some dried moss to it but it would probably just fall off eventually.
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 18:54 |
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Have any of you guys used Archer Fine Transfers rivets? Thinking of using them on my next project
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 18:58 |
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Sparq posted:I'm building a Panzer IV Ausf. D, currently just modulated. It's a coffee cup, duh.
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 19:02 |
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nineball on the monitor
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 19:19 |
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Sparq posted:I'm building a Panzer IV Ausf. D, currently just modulated. You airbrushed the entire wall with Tamiya Acrylic flat white.
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 19:35 |
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Sparq posted:I'm building a Panzer IV Ausf. D, currently just modulated.
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 19:38 |
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Oh man, I just discovered that you can manage your personal collection on Scalemates! Time to add in all my plastic junk!
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 20:22 |
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Ensign Expendable posted:Is it the robot looking thing? Are you building a diorama like so: This diorama is so loving cool
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 21:40 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 07:28 |
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Arquinsiel posted:Holy poo poo! Where did you get that? I know, right?! A Zentradi warship in the extreme background what are we looking at
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# ? Mar 9, 2016 22:18 |