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Deedle posted:
looka this noob. lift the board from the infeed side going in and the outfeed side going out
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Mar 17, 2016 22:32
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Mr. Mambold posted:looka this noob. lift the board from the infeed side going in and the outfeed side going out If I want to lift stuff I'll go to the gym.
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Mar 17, 2016 23:33
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Deedle posted:That sounds like way too much effort. I was just gonna build a nice long insert table for it. Something that has half a metre of table on either end. Haha. Just elevate the table at either ends maybe 5 degrees, you should be good to go.
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Mar 18, 2016 00:22
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swampface posted:I thought it was because the outfeed table was low, so I shimmed it up. I do have a longer straightedge now, so I should probably spend another afternoon mucking about with it. I would definitely do this. The only way for this to really happen is if your tables aren't coplanar, particularly if the outfeed table is sagging at the far end of the table to a point below the cutterhead.
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Mar 18, 2016 16:03
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Yay for eBay, found a nice usee #5 plane for $50 (plus shipping). Got an eye rolling from the wife until she looked at new plane prices. Now to practice building... A box!
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Mar 18, 2016 20:43
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You have embarked on a journey guaranteed to change the way you view furniture, trees, and sharp things.
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Mar 18, 2016 21:17
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Today I had a nice example for where a hand tool just did the job better and faster. I had a piece of 3/4" plywood i needed to rip, but both sides where in rough shape, no safe way to rip it and get one true edge... Sure I could joint it and ruin the blades (don't joint plywood), or I could spend time and effort in building a one off jig to joint the thing on my table saw. Or I just put the thing in my bench vise and run over the edge with my 116 year old #7 jointer plane. Took 5 minutes. Hand tools, when you need them, you are really glad to have them.
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Mar 18, 2016 21:29
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The more you do this the more you end up using power tools just for ripping and thicknessing.
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Mar 19, 2016 00:08
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His Divine Shadow posted:Today I had a nice example for where a hand tool just did the job better and faster. I had a piece of 3/4" plywood i needed to rip, but both sides where in rough shape, no safe way to rip it and get one true edge... Sure I could joint it and ruin the blades (don't joint plywood), or I could spend time and effort in building a one off jig to joint the thing on my table saw. You could have tacked a straightedge to the plywood and ripped off a bad side. If your 116 year old jointer plane did the trick without getting scarred up, powerful tool.
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Mar 19, 2016 00:17
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Nostratic posted:Yay for eBay, found a nice usee #5 plane for $50 (plus shipping). Got an eye rolling from the wife until she looked at new plane prices. Awesome. What kind did you get? Good luck with the box!
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Mar 19, 2016 02:41
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Built a cedar box for my mom. Felt good to finally get back into the shop for the first time since Christmas. I still kind of suck at getting even coats with shellac but I'm going to blame the brush for now. I'm thinking maybe I should cut the bristles shorter or just get a better brush. Hard to tell without any scale but it's about the size of a shoe box. https://imgur.com/a/xxi8L  Edit: I was using my incra box joint jig and for once didn't check the calibration on it before cutting all the joints. Of course it had drifted and they were juuuust a bit too tight to fit. I managed to persuade it together with a rubber mallet. One of the end pieces split in half but it's held in place by the fingers on either side so it's not super obvious and still very solid. Time will tell if more cracks will open up I guess. Squibbles fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Mar 19, 2016 |
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Mar 19, 2016 03:45
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swampface posted:Nope, just flattening one side. When I need to make multiple passes, the 'front' end of the board always ends up significantly thinner than the back end. Maybe that's just to be expected but it doesn't seem right to me. I've tested it on fairly straight stock and it always seems to be the case. Not to jump on a hate train here, but no joiner should ever have any snipe of any sort. Even my 6" made in 1932 produces glue-ready flatness across any length. You MUST shift your feed weight to the outfeed table, whoever above said they don't. To be helpful: Why are you shimming anything? Doesn't the jointer have table adjustments? Ideally, you should be able to adjust 2 sides and rough height, if not all 4 corners of each table.
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Mar 19, 2016 07:25
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Mr. Mambold posted:You could have tacked a straightedge to the plywood and ripped off a bad side. If your 116 year old jointer plane did the trick without getting scarred up, powerful tool. The cutting edge takes a beating, but compared to a jointer blade it's super easy to resharpen.
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Mar 19, 2016 14:32
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I'm terrible at identifying wood and I'm hoping someone could give me a hand with a couple. Any ideas on what kind of wood these two different legs are? Imgur album
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Mar 19, 2016 15:14
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'm terrible at identifying wood and I'm hoping someone could give me a hand with a couple. Any ideas on what kind of wood these two different legs are? Imgur album I had some just like it I salvaged from discarded furniture and never did identify the species. It is medium hardness and somewhat open pored, almost like a straight grained blond version of walnut. Pores are too small for ash. Disclaimer I'm looking at the pictures on my phone.
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Mar 19, 2016 15:57
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wormil posted:I had some just like it I salvaged from discarded furniture and never did identify the species. It is medium hardness and somewhat open pored, almost like a straight grained blond version of walnut. Pores are too small for ash. Disclaimer I'm looking at the pictures on my phone. Its imported, real common. I thought from Taiwan or Japan but it could be soutth America lumber.... i could be wrong.
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Mar 19, 2016 16:02
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wormil posted:I had some just like it I salvaged from discarded furniture and never did identify the species. It is medium hardness and somewhat open pored, almost like a straight grained blond version of walnut. Pores are too small for ash. Disclaimer I'm looking at the pictures on my phone. Butternut?
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Mar 19, 2016 19:09
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GEMorris posted:Butternut? Possible, but I think Mambold is right about it being an import. I seem to remember a China or Taiwan sticker
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Mar 19, 2016 20:16
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Bought a bunch of second hand tools today. The planes are long overdue, the POS Stanley I bought from new a while ago has a massively curved sole and is likely most useful for making round tables. These are actually flat. Marking gauge and router plane will also be useful. Hand drill, mostly for the heck of it... my electric drill drains battery rather fast. The router plane needs full restoration, the iron has caught plenty of rust, and the body might also benefit from some additional planing and maybe surface treatment. Only I'm having trouble disassembling both smoothing planes. I've given the long one plenty of whacks on the back end seemingly without the wedge loosening, and the regular one has some mechanism I can't figure out. Going to experiment some more.
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Mar 19, 2016 21:33
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That brace will definitely be your friend if you have to drive a nice big auger bit. Even corded electric drills get a bit upset If I try.
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Mar 19, 2016 21:37
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I love my grrripper  This would have been a piece of scrap but in was able to cut it to the 1" piece of trim I needed between 2 doors.  Also made a thing it's a simple box for a dog bed mostly to test out the new table saw.. it was great having a saw that didn't try and throw wood at me, (old one had no pawl, riving knife or guard), had a t lock fence (old one had 2 pipes and you needed to measure when you locked front and back part of the fence) and that has dust collection.
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Mar 21, 2016 00:28
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Cross posting this from the quick questions thread for more exposure. Larrymer posted:That spring broke on a rental place I was at, nothing happened in the aftermath. It is true that it has a lot of energy if it did fail but I don't really know if it can go anywhere since it's on a shaft, so it can only move left and right on that shaft. Check the ends of the shaft and if it doesn't look too sturdy, then I might do something but otherwise I wouldn't worry too much. I'd let somebody else weigh in that might know better, though.
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Mar 21, 2016 14:00
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The answer you got over there was what I was going to suggest - fill it with a dowel, drill a new hole into that. Comedy WTF option: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JP7RbWmiDN8
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Mar 21, 2016 15:26
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Free Market Mambo posted:You have embarked on a journey guaranteed to change the way you view furniture, trees, and sharp things. Very true! I find myself noticing how some things are built now, like my sister's coffee table - just simple stuff, like how it was assembled and shaped, thinking about how the legs might have been made, stuff like that. Pretty cool. mds2 posted:Awesome. What kind did you get? Good luck with the box! I got a #5 Stanley.
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Mar 21, 2016 15:34
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DAAS Kapitalist posted:The answer you got over there was what I was going to suggest - fill it with a dowel, drill a new hole into that. I appreciate his enthusiasm. That chair is an abomination. Nostratic posted:
Sup first plane owner buddy!
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Mar 21, 2016 15:40
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A guy on a local trade group has all these maple blocks for trade/sale. He said he got them cleaning out a storage locker from an old strip mall. There is more than what's in the pic, 11,000 total.quote:I have 2000 to 3000 of these solid maple bricks.   He wants $1.50 - $2.00 per block, or equivalent in trade. He said he'd give me "hundreds of blocks" for some old SNES games I have laying around. So I'm gonna price them all out on ebay and see if I can get an even better deal per $. I want to use these to make a ton of cutting boards for a local craft show and maybe etsy. Help pay for this wedding I got coming up. My main worry is because the pic is outside if they've gotten water on them they may be ruined to be used as cutting boards. I'll have to inspect them for sure. Any thoughts on this deal? Is it good or bad? Should I avoid it or get as many as I can? Any ideas for other projects that aren't cutting boards? The guy claims to have 11,000 blocks. If anyone else is interested this is located in Hamilton, Ontario. I could put you in touch.
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Mar 21, 2016 16:06
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The Canadian Maple Brick Reserve.
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Mar 21, 2016 16:43
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:A guy on a local trade group has all these maple blocks for trade/sale. He said he got them cleaning out a storage locker from an old strip mall. There is more than what's in the pic, 11,000 total. Get as many as you can.If you're worried about water get a moisture meter. Already dried blocks are prone to drying back to ambient temps.
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Mar 21, 2016 16:51
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So my wife and I are moving out of our rented house into a condo next month. It's a very quiet neighborhood (mostly the elderly and "young professionals") so I really would prefer not to make a racket on the balcony. I don't want to use anything louder than a power drill to work on things at home, but I also don't want to get rid of the nice table saw I got for Christmas. Is anyone else in a similar situation? If so, what do you do? Are there workshops or public places where you can just do your really noisy work?
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Mar 21, 2016 17:05
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Free Market Mambo posted:The Canadian Maple Brick Reserve. Our government did recently sell our entire gold reserve, so I guess this is all we have left!
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Mar 21, 2016 17:05
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DizzyBum posted:So my wife and I are moving out of our rented house into a condo next month. It's a very quiet neighborhood (mostly the elderly and "young professionals") so I really would prefer not to make a racket on the balcony. I don't want to use anything louder than a power drill to work on things at home, but I also don't want to get rid of the nice table saw I got for Christmas. For any work you plan on doing in the condo, you're going to have to be hand tool centric and even then hammering out mortises and chopping dovetails can make a racket. I'd suggest finding a makerspace or craft center type place with power tools to do your rough dimensioning work at, then do your joinery at home.
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Mar 21, 2016 17:53
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DAAS Kapitalist posted:The answer you got over there was what I was going to suggest - fill it with a dowel, drill a new hole into that. I'm wondering if I can reuse the caster if I do this. It looks like the pin is press fit into the leg and the spiky bits dig in to the leg to keep the caster housing from spinning. Sound about right?
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Mar 21, 2016 19:39
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DizzyBum posted:Are there workshops or public places where you can just do your really noisy work? See if there's storage places that have electricity in their units. I don't see you doing work without paying additional rent or membership somewhere. Some people like doing this because it gets rid of clutter to a unit, but it does add to your expenses.
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Mar 21, 2016 20:20
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Let that storage space know what you plan on doing most aren't insured for anyone to do anything other than store poo poo in their box.
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Mar 21, 2016 20:37
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I'm putting together a unit that's going to house my router table, I need a metric t-track nut/bolt set, like this but not UNC Any suggestions in the UK?
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Mar 21, 2016 21:11
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Cakefool posted:I'm putting together a unit that's going to house my router table, I need a metric t-track nut/bolt set, like this but not UNC Any suggestions in the UK? At work we use unc only for slotted extrusions but my metric blacklist might help: iTem from Germany, 80/20inc, Bosch, Futura (TSLOTS), and misumi. You will have to build your own kit BOM.
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Mar 22, 2016 07:37
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Larrymer posted:I'm wondering if I can reuse the caster if I do this. It looks like the pin is press fit into the leg and the spiky bits dig in to the leg to keep the caster housing from spinning. Sound about right? Yes. Here's a guy who didn't bother filling the hole to make it fit properly, and just stuffed some glue in there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5zESSv8VXY
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Mar 22, 2016 12:42
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Cool, I will see if I can find a wooden dowel and do some drilling and hammering. Thanks. 
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Mar 22, 2016 13:44
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Any of you guys ever use a sliding table saw? My darling of a fiancee has both agreed to have me build a workshop in our new back yard, and upgrade a tool or two so that I can build our new furniture safely. My shop will be a bit on the narrow side (11' wide, 25' long). I was going to go for a 3hp SawStop until someone said "Hey, you should look at a Hammer". Looked at the K3 Basic, and yup... that's an amazing and safe machine. I now realize how many more benefits the Sliding TS provides over Hot Dog Technology, which is just a regular old cabinet saw. With the slider, there's barely a reason to get your hands within a foot of the blade. Assuming I can upgrade my bandsaw to a Laguna, I probably won't need to do thin ripping on the TS any more. There's a slider attachment for the SawStop, but it adds a lot to the footprint of the saw and the sliding component is a foot away from the blade (as opposed to adjacent to it). It also ends up being more than the Hammer K3 Basic. I know, I know, nice problem to have... but would appreciate if any of you have experience with either/both
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Mar 23, 2016 04:18
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I've never used one so take this for what it's worth. Sliders are loving awesome. I recently discovered my old neighbor directly behind me is a woodworker too. He has a grizzly slider, loving sweet saw. I don't know anything about hammer saws either. They are pretty pricey, right? For me, if I could, I would get the saw stop with the slider. I like the hotdog technology. It gives good piece of mind, if the very worst were to happen. Say I slip, trip, get bumped, kickback, etc, and into the blade I go. I like that extra piece of mind that no other cabinet saw has. I don't care about the politics of it or whatnot, I like the safety feature. Add on a slider and you have a great saw.
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Mar 23, 2016 04:30
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