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Oh man, so much cool poo poo in that sale. KV-8, MkV with interior, not one but two Whippets, two Hobby Boss PzIVs... I need to clear some shelf space. Speaking of, does anyone know which Whippet is better, the Meng one or the Takom one? Edit: ugh, shipping. 10 bucks after discount for a PzIV, 15 bucks to ship. Considering I was going to drop $40 on the same kit at a B&M store, still a good deal, I suppose. Ensign Expendable fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Mar 22, 2016 |
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Mar 22, 2016 15:45
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Ensign Expendable posted:I found the Dragon Kettenkrad+Puppschen kit for cheap, and holy poo poo are those tracks a pain in 1:35. Revell makes a 1:9 Kettenkrad though Want to trade those indy link Kettenkrad tracks for Dragon DS tracks? I've been looking for those tracks for a while now!
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Mar 22, 2016 16:34
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Sorry, I finished that kit years ago.
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Mar 22, 2016 16:45
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I just received a truly crap car, just look at this wonderful flash! This is going to be awesome!  
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Mar 22, 2016 16:57
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It's crap car... bend it upwards slightly, paint it silver and call it another side mirror.
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Mar 22, 2016 17:14
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Someone please mount that microvan on a Kettenkrad undercarriage. 
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Mar 22, 2016 17:37
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It's too big. The thing is surprisingly large, big enough to carry a Renault FT hull in the truck bed width-wise and even longer than that.
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Mar 22, 2016 17:55
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Ensign Expendable posted:Speaking of, does anyone know which Whippet is better, the Meng one or the Takom one? I saw a build video of a Meng Whippet and it looked really good and made me want one really bad, so that's my anecdotal evidence
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Mar 22, 2016 18:57
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Ensign Expendable posted:Edit: ugh, shipping. 10 bucks after discount for a PzIV, 15 bucks to ship. Considering I was going to drop $40 on the same kit at a B&M store, still a good deal, I suppose. Looked through and added a bunch of nice stuff. Went to checkout. $75 shipping. Closed tab. 
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Mar 22, 2016 20:05
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I....think I might like to try a battleship model? Any suggestions for a relatively easy/inexpensive first kit? Bonus points if it is a WWI era ship.
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Mar 22, 2016 22:30
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bewbies posted:I....think I might like to try a battleship model? Any suggestions for a relatively easy/inexpensive first kit? Bonus points if it is a WWI era ship. I have no idea about the quality, but this one is 30 bucks and look like a fun pre-WW2 battleship: http://www.hobbylinc.com/zvezda-knyaz-suvorov-russian-battleship-1:350-scale-plastic-model-military-ship-9026 Might be earlier than you're looking for, she sunk in 1905. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Mar 22, 2016 |
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Mar 22, 2016 23:00
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bewbies posted:I....think I might like to try a battleship model? Any suggestions for a relatively easy/inexpensive first kit? Bonus points if it is a WWI era ship. Welp, you picked a kinda bad topic for inexpensive kits. Trumpeter has several 1/700 WWI-era british dreadnoughts that tend to be in the 30-50 USD range, and the quality on them is typically very good. If you want (most) German or American dreadnoughts, you pretty much have to go with a resin kit, which is both not cheap and not easy. ICM has made a few (plastic) 1/350 German dreadnoughts around the 60 USD range. WWII era kits like the 1/700 waterline series (by Tamiya/Aoshima/Hasegawa) tend to be cheap and relatively easy to make, but almost all of the newer kits are Japanese warships in their WWII configuration. Alternatively, Airfix has some cheap WWI-era battleships, but the quality is not great and they're in a weird scale (1/600).
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Mar 22, 2016 23:15
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Triggerhappypilot posted:Alternatively, Airfix has some cheap WWI-era battleships, but the quality is not great and they're in a weird scale (1/600). I recently built the Airfix 1:600 Warspite. It was a mediocre kit at best, with lots of parts that didn't fit that well. But at the same time it was definitely a kit that I would not feel bad for butchering if it was my first one, so maybe not a bad choice for just trying out a ship kit. But yeah, be prepared for filling gaps and cutting and sanding a lot to make it look decent.
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Mar 22, 2016 23:24
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Casyl posted:I don't think this has been posted yet, but I saw on Reddit recently that Squadron has a coupon for $20 off a purchase in their store, minimum purchase of $20.01. The code is GRMARCH. It can be used once per account. Worked for me; got some Vallejo primer and a paint set. Thanks for sharing! Shared it in turn with a friend. Picked up a Vallejo rust pigment set and 3 bottles of paint for a whole $8.48 shipped.
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Mar 23, 2016 01:25
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My word, it's been an entire page since anyone posted tanks!          "Mine's bigger"  My whole American-made collection.  It's a If you're familiar with Dragon Sherman kits, they include a TON of sprues from various Sherman kits into one, just for some parts. There's a sprue on there where you only use three tiny pieces: the hull fan cover and the headlights. You get a full HVSS suspension sprue just for the final drive covers. There are three different cast transmission covers in the kit. If you want spare parts, then this is the kit for you. The kit itself is very well made, no problems fitting anything. The machinegun is excellent, best .50 cal I've seen on a 1:35th scale model hands down. Most of the parts are in the suspension (each bogey comes in 7 pieces), so the final parts count that's actually used isn't very high, even though the box is full of bits. The kit also comes with a MasterBox paratroopers kit. MasterBox figures are always top notch, but I have no interest in the subject matter. It's weird that they didn't include a tank crew or something that's actually relevant to tanks, but hey, free figures. Now the bad. This is a "budget" kit, so photo-etch is at a minimum. Namely, there are only five pieces: aerial cover, headlight covers, and air intakes mesh. Not a lot compared to a standard Dragon offering. The "budget" manual also squeezes several steps from a full sized Dragon manual into one, neglecting to revise the numbering. The kit also has two of my biggest peeves: no interior and vinyl tracks. The tracks are some kind of magic Dragon vinyl (the brochure calls it Dragon Styrene 100) that can be glued with cyanoacrylate cement, but it still has the problem of vinyl of refusing to sag. At least the joint on each track is very subtle, which is good, since there are no dust shields for you to hide it in. Vinyl tracks means no spare track links, meaning you can't dress up your tank with additional track armour like the British were fond of doing. The gun comes in two halves, so it would be a huge pain to clean up if I didn't have a metal barrel. The markings options are also very limited: one set for a Polish army tank (despite a big ol' PL on the back, the manual does not identify it as such) and one for a Canadian unit. If you choose to paint under-barrel countershading camouflage, you're going to have to do it freehand, since it's not a part of the decals and silly putty refused to stick to the barrel. The aerial identification decal isn't included in the marking guide, so I guessed where it would go. Looks like a pretty good place for one of these. Strangely enough, I was also missing covers for the non-rotating periscopes for the driver and assistant driver. They were simply not mentioned in the manual at all. I managed to find one part that sort of fit the bill, but I had to cut the other one from sheet styrene. I didn't try anything fancy with paint this time around, but I did have a go at pastels. Naturally I dusted the tank from top to bottom, and then quickly realized the advantages of pastels over paint: you can very easily wash the excess off, with a nice effect left in the recesses. I think the final result looks pretty good.
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Mar 23, 2016 03:27
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So this guy has some amazing scenery/detailing tutorials on youtube. It's obviously choo choo focused, but for anyone who wants cool grass or trees or details to make little dioramas or scenes there's some really cool resources here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=channel?UCjRkUtHQ774mTg1vrQ6uA5A?videos His wire tree tutorial is nuts.
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Mar 23, 2016 03:34
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Baronjutter posted:So this guy has some amazing scenery/detailing tutorials on youtube. It's obviously choo choo focused, but for anyone who wants cool grass or trees or details to make little dioramas or scenes there's some really cool resources here. Proclick here. This guy has some amazing tutorials.
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Mar 23, 2016 04:57
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I can't see anything Youtube posted:An error occurred during validation.
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Mar 23, 2016 05:14
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Here's a link to his entire collection of vids: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjRkUtHQ774mTg1vrQ6uA5A/videos
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Mar 23, 2016 05:57
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Ensign Expendable posted:My word, it's been an entire page since anyone posted tanks! I always though it was a bit cruel to the crews of a tank with a reputation of starting on fire to call it the Firefly.
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Mar 23, 2016 06:34
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Jonny Nox posted:I always though it was a bit cruel to the crews of a tank with a reputation of starting on fire to call it the Firefly. Pretty sure that was a post war myth
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Mar 23, 2016 11:33
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bewbies posted:I....think I might like to try a battleship model? Any suggestions for a relatively easy/inexpensive first kit? Bonus points if it is a WWI era ship. I've got a Dragon 1/700 tirpitz that I want to get rid of, dunno what the shipping costs would be from rear end-end of eastern europe to wherever you are. But shoot me a PM if you want it for free, just reimburse the shipping.
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Mar 23, 2016 12:07
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Jonny Nox posted:I always though it was a bit cruel to the crews of a tank with a reputation of starting on fire to call it the Firefly. That's a post war thing. Shermans burned no more than German tanks, and wet ammo rack Shermans burned a lot less.
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Mar 23, 2016 13:32
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Yeah, AFAIK it's pretty much based on initially poorly placed ammo storage, rather: "Now the Ronson myth does however have a bit of truth to it. Early Shermans had very vulnerable ammo racks which were stored in the "humps" near the front of the hull. The placement of these ammo racks made it easy for German gunners to know where to hit for catastrophic kills on the Sherman tanks. The army knew of this problem and moved immediately to fix it. The army developed "wet" ammo racks which involved putting the ammo racks inside of water filled jackets to douse any embers or fires immediately, and they also moved the ammo racks to the bottom of the tank to reduce the chances of them being hit by AT weapons. Wet stowage reduced the chances of an ammo rack fire or detonation in Sherman tanks to only 15% compared to 60-80% of dry stowage Shermans. The conclusion on the Ronson myth is that while there is truth behind it, the myth has been so overblown as to rival the invulnerability myth of the Tiger."
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Mar 23, 2016 14:10
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Baronjutter posted:So this guy has some amazing scenery/detailing tutorials on youtube. It's obviously choo choo focused, but for anyone who wants cool grass or trees or details to make little dioramas or scenes there's some really cool resources here. Panzer IV is going well, with my first foray into the world of dioramas. Right now I'm weathering: scratches, filters, washes...  And here is the 1:350 Star Wars Juggernaut. The thing is barreling through a peaceful garden world giving no fucks whatsoever.   
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Mar 23, 2016 15:51
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I love how it has absolutely massive wheels but the ground clearance is still terrible It's like the reason everything down to drinks trays has a repulsorlift in it is that they just hadn't fully grasped the wheel yet.
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Mar 23, 2016 17:36
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I got the same crap car that makka-setan did, and every surface that can have terrible flash does. Gonna be a bit of a project, I've never done a car before at all and it's been years since I've dealt with flash.
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Mar 23, 2016 17:45
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Thanks for the Squadron coupon code, I picked up the Moebius Cylon Raider for under 8 bucks after shipping. That'll go nicely with the Mk II Viper I grabbed a couple of weeks ago. Also waiting for some new paints to show up, and then we get to see if I remember how to use my airbrush without harming myself or the kits. I haven't spent any real time building anything in a few years.
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Mar 23, 2016 22:18
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Love the modulation and the base on that Panzer IV.
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Mar 23, 2016 22:26
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Arquinsiel posted:I love how it has absolutely massive wheels but the ground clearance is still terrible It clears the ground of anything standing on it pretty drat well though.
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Mar 23, 2016 22:32
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If any fellow Canadian modelers are looking to pick up any art supplies for their collection, Curry's is having big sale right now where you can get 20% off purchases of $150 or more.They're one of the best stocked, and cheapest, art stores in Canada, and along with their free shipping offer (which is rare as hens teeth in Canada) you can get a steep discount on stuff. They obviously don't have any modeling specific stuff, but they have just about any art supply you can think of, most of which are still complementary to scale modeling. Just add promo code TULIP20 at the checkout screen.
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Mar 24, 2016 09:14
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Yo dudes. Got a bit of a question but can anyone here recommend a manufacturer or company that does 10mm scale military transfers or stencils for vehicles/aircraft? Looking for Soviet and British stuff in particular, anything from WW2 up to present day really, I'm not looking for anything specifically just curious on what is available.
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Mar 24, 2016 18:07
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So I received the soon-to-be Jurassic Park Jeep kit and even though it's the wrong year Jeep Wrangler it's fortunately still pretty accurate. Supposedly the 1987-1995 models mostly only varied in color. Since it is an open top model with roll bars most likely I'll model it after the number 18 Jeep from the movie (the one Sattler and Grant rides when they see the Brachiosaurus OMG SPOILER ALERT). Nedry's Jeep had the canvas top and the one chased by the T-Rex didn't have the roll bar. The biggest issue is decals, that's an absolute must. No JP Jeep without the JP logo. I'll look into printing my own if I can't find somewhere to order professionally printed custom ones. There are some things to scratch build like lights, a winch, the antenna, the canvas top attachment bars and light bar. And unfortunately the spare tire in the model kit is covered by fabric, the movie cars didn't have this so maybe I'll cast one of the wheels in resin or something. I also need to guesstimate the colors of the body and interior. I think this will be a long term project.
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Mar 24, 2016 20:06
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Printing your own decals is easy so long as they involve no white. Yours will be tricky but doable if you print on white since it's white text with a coloured border. This mean you'll have to cut the decal exactly but it's not a very tricky shape. Another option would be to print on clear decal paper, which would make the white text clear, but if you pre-painted behind the decal white this would also work. I know a lot of train people get decals custom made from microscale. I got them to do me a custom sheet, it wasn't cheap but it also wasn't ridiculous and they make very nice very thin decals. http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=Custom
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Mar 24, 2016 20:43
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Managed to save the Ducati after accidentally tearing apart the front section. Pretty much done with it for now. Well, apart from a bit of gloss and a polish and the personalized number plate for the future owner. Unfortunately the nice large Ducati decals for the side covers didn't survive the pre-owner. A nice little kit, that unfortunately loses its lustre towards the end. It's like Tamiya themselves gave up a little bit and dropped all the attention to detail this kit started with. For instance there's no attachment points for the rear view mirrors and the instructions just go "Throw them on there kinda like this and hope for the best, good luck, dude". Which is a little bit hard for me with my astigmatism. I can just hope things are kinda symmetrical, i can't really judge it myself.    Some other updates: Lamborghini Countach got it's gearbox and the seats (they look like fake plasticky leather, which is exactly how the original looks like)  The F-14 got a radar, landing gear doors, working fan blades and navigation lights  The Citroen got its very unique suspension system. Unfortunately it's only a mock up in the model. While the model DOES have working suspension it's not being done via the actual real life suspension.  And I started on the Aventador, which just plugs and screws together for the most part, but had surprisingly bad fit issues between the vinyl cushions and ABS shell of the seats. Needed to go hog wild with CA glue there. Hope this holds together. 
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Mar 25, 2016 14:02
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Finished the Zvezda 109F. This kit was a monster, it had probably twice as many pieces as any other 1/48 kit I've done. It was probably past my skill level and it flirted briefly with the trash can but I think it turned out pretty well in the end. The camo spray with silly putty worked pretty well and I really like how the underside and top of the fuselage come together. I actually did that without masking at all, just sprayed the dark from the top after having done the bottom. This is a newer kit and there aren't a lot of professional quality builds out there on the internet yet but like the Zvezda Yak-3 it seems like the kind of kit that a really skilled modeler could really do amazing things with. On the downside APPARENTLY Russians have some sort of "deal" with the swastika (I can't imagine why) so the decal came as four tiny black 90 degree angles instead of the whole thing. It was like a horrible puzzle of fragile drying bits of plastic and I did not like that part one bit.  
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Mar 25, 2016 20:48
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At least you got a swastika, even if it was a DIY version. Looks like a pretty neat kit overall, and a good paintjob. The fade works very well. I picked up the F4U-4 linked a few pages back as part of Revell's march releases(store had the Shackleton as well, but not the other two) I like this new instruction style, but as usual there's at least one error in them. At least it's more readable than trying to decipher 5 different styles of dithered black and white with the occasional letter pointing at it. It looks like it'll be fun to build as it's a fresh mold, which hopefully means no fitting issues.
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Mar 25, 2016 21:11
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bewbies posted:
It's so the kit can be sold in Germany. You can't legally sell (or publically display) kits with a swastika here, so they break it up into pieces. Then it's a-ok to sell.
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Mar 25, 2016 22:21
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bewbies posted:Words Nice 109. I just finished a 1/72 Gustav. Finally tried some preshading and it turned out kinda ok, but honestly doesn't look all too different as compared to my last kit.  
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Mar 25, 2016 22:57
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Greyhawk posted:It's so the kit can be sold in Germany. You can't legally sell (or publically display) kits with a swastika here, so they break it up into pieces. Then it's a-ok to sell. Absolutley correct look at this pic I took at Duxford show not long ago. 
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Mar 26, 2016 20:20
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