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I think I liked 40k more back in the day when it still had a mix of scify styles. It was supposed to be showing what was once a clean futuristic society descended into a horrible dark age, so of course there would be a mix of styles of tech. But in 40k now every single city, vehicle, and person is the exact same gothic style. There's zero diversity between planets and eras. That ancient battleship from the dark age of technology they pulled out of the warp is still just a big floating gothic cathedral. It's like the whole universe was designed by one person at one time and never changed.
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Apr 2, 2016 21:12
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Baronjutter posted:I think I liked 40k more back in the day when it still had a mix of scify styles. It was supposed to be showing what was once a clean futuristic society descended into a horrible dark age, so of course there would be a mix of styles of tech. But in 40k now every single city, vehicle, and person is the exact same gothic style. There's zero diversity between planets and eras. That ancient battleship from the dark age of technology they pulled out of the warp is still just a big floating gothic cathedral. It's like the whole universe was designed by one person at one time and never changed. 40k went downhill the moment it abandoned its goofy roots and stated taking itself seriously.
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Apr 2, 2016 23:17
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A_Bluenoser posted:40k went downhill the moment it abandoned its goofy roots and stated taking itself seriously. And when they started writing everything from the point of Imperial propaganda. ed: Ah gently caress, the death thread's leaking again. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Apr 3, 2016 |
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Apr 2, 2016 23:55
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Getting frustrated with trying to airbrush a matte coat. I have some Vallejo 70.520 Matt Varnish (The acrylic, not polyurethane kind) and it seems to frost/have a white coat no matter what I try. I got black plastic spoons to test on and it's super obvious. Am I possibly just really screwing up the application or what? Every tip or product I've tried adding to it doesn't help. I'm not against buying something else, but I'd prefer not a rattlecan since it's a lot harder to control or apply to a smaller area.
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Apr 3, 2016 00:30
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Have you tried gloss-coating it first, and then matte coating it once that's dried? And go super light with the matte coat, since black makes it stand out more than any other color.
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Apr 3, 2016 00:42
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PirateDentist posted:Getting frustrated with trying to airbrush a matte coat. I have some Vallejo 70.520 Matt Varnish (The acrylic, not polyurethane kind) and it seems to frost/have a white coat no matter what I try. I got black plastic spoons to test on and it's super obvious. Am I possibly just really screwing up the application or what? Every tip or product I've tried adding to it doesn't help. I also got this a couple of weeks ago and still don't know why. It just started happening one day. I'm now using Microscale Flat instead.
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Apr 3, 2016 00:56
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Could be the seasons changing causing it. Getting hotter and more humid going into spring could cause it to be drying partially midair. Maybe a drop or two of thinner might help it stay wet long enough to dry properly on the model.
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Apr 3, 2016 01:13
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Could be the seasons changing causing it. Getting hotter and more humid going into spring could cause it to be drying partially midair. Maybe a drop or two of thinner might help it stay wet long enough to dry properly on the model. I live in a desert with currently... 29% humidity in here, 12% outside. Buuuuut I just noticed the "dryer" on my new tiny/quiet compressor is starting to accumulate some water. There's no time at all for the air to cool down so it's probably doing a poo poo job at extracting moisture. Experiment time... Brush hooked up to the big compressor with 7 gal tank, filled then given a few minutes to cool down so the dryer can do it's job. Same results, though the moisture in line of the other compressor probably means it's time to add that 1 gal tank in line I've been meaning to. This'll also have the nice bonus of helping the compressor cycle on and off less. In a fit of "fuckit" I did 4 drops of varnish to 1 drop of Liquitex Retarder and it seemed to get good non-frosted results, though it was thick as hell. So perhaps my main problem is the ambient air is too dry? Hmm. tunah posted:I also got this a couple of weeks ago and still don't know why. It just started happening one day. I'm now using Microscale Flat instead. Ordered a bottle of this to try as well.
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Apr 3, 2016 18:48
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Hahaha, got it at last I think. Hedgehog had the right idea, the mix just needed a lot of thinner. 10 drops varnish, 3 drops Liquitex Airbrush Medium, 3 drops Liquitex Retarder ("Slo-Dry") Results:  Left: One coat of straight varnish, looks a lot whiter in person. Multiple coats dulled the shine, but made it even whiter. Center: One uncoated plastic spoon. Right: The above mentioned mix, this is about 4 coats with maybe 10 seconds between coats. Slightly lighter, but it doesn't look like it was dipped in milk. E: I also realize this is like a worst case scenario test, but it also made it really easy to see the results. PirateDentist fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Apr 3, 2016 |
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Apr 3, 2016 19:23
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 My crapkit won a silver medal. Silver means I'm the best loser 
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Apr 3, 2016 23:48
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That's the poo poo dude.
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Apr 3, 2016 23:51
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Anyone have any tricks for gluing on the tiny individual links for an Italeri model? This poo poo has been maddening.
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Apr 4, 2016 00:05
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have you tried using a rubber band or low-tack tape to hold it together while you wick the glue in?
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Apr 4, 2016 00:15
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Unkempt posted:
What could possibly have beaten a Hi-Mock punishing a toilet?
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Apr 4, 2016 00:20
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I think it was this little Star Wars thing in front: Overall best in show was this -  I've put a smallish gallery here I also won a Tamiya Tiger I in the raffle so that was cool.
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Apr 4, 2016 00:44
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muike posted:have you tried using a rubber band or low-tack tape to hold it together while you wick the glue in? It's a combination of multi-track links, some which are glued in mid air, and about sixty single link pieces. I've seen folks use double sided table to hold them all down, but the combination thing is making it a bitch.
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Apr 4, 2016 00:45
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Unkempt posted:
I almost went to Valleycon. I would have recognized that instantly! Nice job.
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Apr 4, 2016 00:59
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Unkempt posted:
A lot of Revell and Italieri 1/72nd kits are actually downscaled old Tamiya kits. They are nightmares to assemble due to that. I've done a Panzer I with individual links. VVVV Arquinsiel fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Apr 4, 2016 |
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Apr 4, 2016 03:24
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Yooper posted:Anyone have any tricks for gluing on the tiny individual links for an Italeri model? This poo poo has been maddening. I usually arrange a few links on tape, wait for the glue to set in, and then shape them around the tracks while they're already sort of bonded but still pretty flexible. Works for me in 1:35th, but that looks like 1:72nd, which I didn't even know had link to link tracks.
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Apr 4, 2016 05:32
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I'm finally getting around to working on the f22 I bought last year. There's some internal parts that need to be white, which I'm brush painting since I'm not too worried about brushstrokes on the weapons bay. Is there any way to help how many coats are needed before full coverage? I've always hated painting whites and yellows due to how many coats I needed, but don't know if there's anything I can do about it. I'm using Tamiya paint for this section.
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Apr 4, 2016 16:57
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I've got a masking question. I took the painting guide, scaled it up to full size in mspaint, then traced out the lines of the patterns. My intention: tape the guide down, tape down a sheet of frisket film, and then cut the masks as needed. Given the size of the lightest gray, my instinct is to put down a coat of the dark charcoal gray, let it dry for a couple hours, then mask. After that I'd do the medium gray, repeat dry/mask, and finish with the light gray. Someone on a modeling FB group basically said frisket film is not meant for this and didn't really yet mention anything else I could try. Someone else said my idea was sound, and maybe put down a light coat of white primer before the last, lightest coat. What do you all think? I'm not forever fixed on the method, so I'm open to suggestions, but my logic is that it'd be tougher to work with lightest first due to the sheer giant size of the gray mask that'd go over the dorsal side.
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Apr 4, 2016 18:49
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Is that some anime plane?
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Apr 4, 2016 19:03
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it's from ace combat so...yes??
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Apr 4, 2016 19:28
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It's a Sukhoi SU-33 isn't it? EDIT: I would look into buying a pre made splinter camo mask personally. I used one on an SU-27 I did in this thread a while back and it was very easy to work with and behaved very similally to Tamiya tape. Some chronological progress shots for your reference, the colours are different but the technique could apply well to that scheme.        
big_g fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Apr 4, 2016 |
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Apr 4, 2016 19:33
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big_g posted:It's a Sukhoi SU-33 isn't it? Yeah ace combat uses 98% real world planes with made up livery and then 2% sci-fi super planes
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Apr 4, 2016 19:34
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MJP posted:It's not from an anime, it's from a video game muike posted:Yeah ace combat uses 98% real world planes with made up livery and then 2% sci-fi super planes This is in my backlog too. I'm not attempting it until I'm 100% good 'n ready. http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10047724 Ask me how market prices work on out-of-production kits that won't ever again be produced 
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Apr 4, 2016 19:34
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Quote =/= edit
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Apr 4, 2016 19:35
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big_g posted:It's a Sukhoi SU-33 isn't it? I know you posted this before, but drat that plane looks great!
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Apr 4, 2016 21:36
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big_g, where did you get that mask? I want to do an F-18 aggressor in that same sort of paint scheme.
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Apr 4, 2016 21:59
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Man last night I tried to make a simple zebra crossing out of tape and gave up... I just drew a line style crosswalk, took the cowards way out.  Graffi added to this building too  And generally added some weathering to this corner.  All the sidewalks and roads and cracks and stuff are cardboard + utility knife.
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Apr 4, 2016 22:45
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Deeters posted:big_g, where did you get that mask? I want to do an F-18 aggressor in that same sort of paint scheme. I'm afraid I can't remember where I ordered it from but it was definitely one of these. J'swork ones. Worth some googling to find a retailer near you as it was a very good set.
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Apr 4, 2016 23:07
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Ensign Expendable posted:I usually arrange a few links on tape, wait for the glue to set in, and then shape them around the tracks while they're already sort of bonded but still pretty flexible. Works for me in 1:35th, but that looks like 1:72nd, which I didn't even know had link to link tracks. That's about what I ended up doing. It really turned out crappy though. The cogs in the drive wheel were so mis-cast that it turned into a grade A poo poo show. Oh well, I'm learning, and once it's painted it won't look half terrible from eight feet away. This must be an old mold, there's flashing and odd bits all over the place. Hopefully the KV-1 kit is a bit better.
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Apr 5, 2016 01:34
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Yooper posted:That's about what I ended up doing. It really turned out crappy though. The cogs in the drive wheel were so mis-cast that it turned into a grade A poo poo show. Oh well, I'm learning, and once it's painted it won't look half terrible from eight feet away. Mix some sand with white glue and slather it on, it will look like mud and hopefully not poo poo.
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Apr 5, 2016 01:41
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Ensign Expendable posted:Mix some sand with white glue and slather it on, it will look like mud and hopefully not poo poo. When my dad was in the army, he had to work with some APCs that had big honking white stars on the sides, which kind of defeats the purpose of the camouflage. He and his troops slathered mud on the sides to cover the stars up. Somewhere along the line he stumbled on a Tamiya kit of the very APC he'd been riding around in. He replicated the look of the mud using...mud. He literally just gathered some mud, watered it down a bit more to make it workable, and slathered it on the model. I don't have photos, but it still looks pretty good even after sitting in a box on a shelf since before I was born. He keeps saying he's gonna fix some damage incurred by the several moves since then and give the thing to me, but he never gets around to it. I do have this, though, from the same box:  Not really related. Just posting a random shot of my tank shelf. Drunkmodeling, bestmodeling. Relatedly, I've finally gotten around to decaling the Tamiya Stug III I've had laying around for a year+  I'm procrastinating on painting the rubber parts of those goddamn wheels. T-34s and 55s have really easy to paint wheels, but the German ones are uniformly a pain in the dick.
Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Apr 5, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 02:07
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MJP posted:I've got a masking question. 
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Apr 5, 2016 03:23
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MJP posted:I've got a masking question. if you REALLY care about getting the splinter scheme exactly as shown, you're pretty much gonna need to break out the tamiya tape and exacto with a fresh blade. if just looking similar enough is good enough, you can get precut masking tape sections from pretty much any of the japanese hobby megastore sites. They're really nice if you want to do a digital scheme, too. Alternative, cheap, and probably not too good looking unless you have really steady hands and a fine airbrush: you could try to freehand small sections at a time if you have a narrow enough spray pattern using a card or something to mask the edge areas. I wouldn't recommend this, but i've used it with middling success to to dazzle camo on the sides of battleships.
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Apr 5, 2016 05:03
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Mr E posted:I'm finally getting around to working on the f22 I bought last year. There's some internal parts that need to be white, which I'm brush painting since I'm not too worried about brushstrokes on the weapons bay. Is there any way to help how many coats are needed before full coverage? I've always hated painting whites and yellows due to how many coats I needed, but don't know if there's anything I can do about it. I'm using Tamiya paint for this section. You might be able to cut down on the number of coats by starting with a white primer. The right kind should block out most if not all of the original plastic color.
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Apr 5, 2016 05:46
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Here's a project worthy of 
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Apr 5, 2016 12:08
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The Swedish M90 camouflage scheme is really beautiful but also a bitch to paint. Maybe not very difficult, but it takes time and tons of masking tape.
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Apr 5, 2016 12:25
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Yeah, my concern isn't exactly "MUST GET EXACT SCHEME" but "I would like to get a decent splinter scheme." I'm going to testbed a few copies of the mask cut out of frisket on something to see how well I can make it happen, but I'm willing to put the $ into a precut mask if it comes down to that. Freehanding ain't gonna happen.
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Apr 5, 2016 16:00
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