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Because then I'd just get depressed over how much worse the Da Vinci is at that compared to the original. Seriously, BFT neutered the Leopard. Every last one of its gimmicks are gone, the bulky proportions that made it a trio with the regular X and the sharp and angular Airmaster were lost, and the only things that were carried over (the general weapon loadout sans the knife) were made as generic as possible. It may as well just be a gimped version of the Heavyarms now. Maybe X Maoh just set the bar too high for me.
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Apr 16, 2016 06:10
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The DaVinci is one of the weirdest kits Bandai has produced in recent years, and not in any kind of good way. Beyond being nominally attached to a currently running show, nothing about it makes any sense at all.
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Apr 16, 2016 06:34
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Speaking of overkill... I have a Styrene/Epoxy problem. And I still have a lot I want/need to do before I can do some fine sanding, putty scratches and gaps, and paint the thing. I'm thinking of wings (to fill up some of the epoxy space on the backpack), rounding out the flat spine details, a visor, adding details the right leg has onto the left, fixing the broken foot balljoints (warning for anyone who wants to use the GM 1 for cheap experimenting: those bits are way more fragile than they look.) and a lance. Original idea was "GM defector with rough customizations and repairs", but after cannibalizing a GM 3 after the arm pegs broke (my bad) and getting half-decent with using styrene I've decided on "GM loaded with thrusters and other fast bits, with a giant piercing weapon, mach 10 ship-buster". I'm open to any suggestions if anything looks more crap than any other crappy additions. Also: should you scribe panel lines before or after painting? E: haha, just realized I took those pics without putting his hands back on. Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Apr 16, 2016 |
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Apr 16, 2016 06:39
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Neurolimal posted:Also: should you scribe panel lines before or after painting? Before unless you have amazingly precise tools and impeccable technique.
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Apr 16, 2016 06:41
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If you've got cash to burn, pick up some modelers' chisels instead of a regular scriber. They are much better.
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Apr 16, 2016 06:52
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Barnes and Nobles is selling IBO character stands now
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Apr 16, 2016 13:41
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 Well there's you silhouette for HG 200. We know it's a REVIVE kit, so get speculating.
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Apr 16, 2016 17:39
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BlitzBlast posted:
Strike Freedom or Destiny Gundam.
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Apr 16, 2016 17:52
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I'm thinking Exia. I have no reason to guess that other than it seeming to have no backpack, and having rather slim proportions.
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Apr 16, 2016 17:54
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BlitzBlast posted:
Eva unit 01?
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Apr 16, 2016 18:34
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The legs are so long and slim on that thing that my gut's going with the insane:
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Apr 16, 2016 18:40
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BlitzBlast posted:
It's a Gundam!  But seriously, those hips, that short torso, the way the shoulder is pretty distinct from the torso and the way the head melds to the body screams 'Leo' to me. I know it won't be, but I can dream.
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Apr 16, 2016 18:40
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Only see one arm, it's hobo exia 
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Apr 16, 2016 18:57
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The head and shoulder silhouette is really weird, doesn't look like a Gundam type to me. It also looks like it's a preview of the inner frame, but that would be a weird choice.
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Apr 16, 2016 19:07
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Anonymous Robot posted:The head and shoulder silhouette is really weird, doesn't look like a Gundam type to me. It also looks like it's a preview of the inner frame, but that would be a weird choice. Realer Grade.  Or this: 
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Apr 16, 2016 19:20
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Looks like a transformed Optimus Primal. Final answer.
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Apr 16, 2016 19:31
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BlitzBlast posted:The legs are so long and slim on that thing that my gut's going with the insane: That would be both beautiful and insane. I must have it.
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Apr 16, 2016 19:37
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It'll be Atlas Gundam.
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Apr 17, 2016 04:21
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I'd go hog wild over a Frame Arms-esque dirt cheap gunnedman skellerton.
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Apr 17, 2016 04:36
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:I'm thinking Exia. I have no reason to guess that other than it seeming to have no backpack, and having rather slim proportions. yeah, plus how far the arms are from the torso is the old HG so bad an update is called for?
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Apr 17, 2016 05:54
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boom boom boom posted:yeah, plus how far the arms are from the torso The HG Exia is good. Most kits from 00 onward are way too recent and too well-made to justify completely new molds. Anyway, given how indistinct that silhouette is, trying to guess what it is is pretty much useless at this point.
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Apr 17, 2016 06:05
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It looks like it's wearing a diaper, so I'm calling a GM
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Apr 17, 2016 06:24
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Well Manicured Man posted:The HG Exia is good. It's not HG SEED bad but it's absolutely not good either. The proportions are messed up, it's way too sticker heavy, doesn't have proper beam sabers, and is all-in-all not a very impressive kit considering how many times they reused it. 00 S2 was the tipping point for HG quality. Anyway my experience with the DM Tallgeese II started off great, spiraled into frustration as soon as I got to the limbs, and reached full "gently caress this, I'm buying the real MG TG1" as soon as I made a mistake and ended up repeatedly stabbing my fingers trying to separate two pieces. The MG TG1 is $33 on Banzai with SAL, and I got the DM TG2 for about $30. $63 for a TG2 with extra weapons, waterslides, and the parts for the TG1 isn't that bad a deal, I guess.
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Apr 17, 2016 06:32
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BlitzBlast posted:It's not HG SEED bad but it's absolutely not good either. The proportions are messed up, it's way too sticker heavy, doesn't have proper beam sabers, and is all-in-all not a very impressive kit considering how many times they reused it. 00 S2 was the tipping point for HG quality. Which makes it worth noting that, if I remember currently, there are 2 hg exia molds, the s1 version and the revised one from season 2's finale, which is far better and was the basis for the dark matter and amazing exia. So even if the original exia was kinda poo poo there's still a decent version that's more recent.
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Apr 17, 2016 06:49
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Sorry but you remember wrong. I assume you're talking about the HG Exia R2, but that is straight up the old Exia with one new runner for the R2 parts. I should know, it was one of my first kits.
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Apr 17, 2016 07:15
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BlitzBlast posted:The legs are so long and slim on that thing that my gut's going with the insane: That's absolutely batshit insane. And a surprisingly good match for the silhouette. I'm down.
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Apr 17, 2016 08:14
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BlitzBlast posted:
Do you notice the gaps between some stretches of the limbs, the upper arms and abdomen specifically? I'm wondering if it's a transparent kit getting a regular HG release.
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Apr 17, 2016 13:19
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Do you notice the gaps between some stretches of the limbs, the upper arms and abdomen specifically? I'm wondering if it's a transparent kit getting a regular HG release. Are there any transparent kits that didn't have a regular release first?
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Apr 17, 2016 15:52
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Midjack posted:Are there any transparent kits that didn't have a regular release first? I meant more that the transparent ones tend to be P-Bandai or one-off event special runs. Having one as a regular HG kit for everyone would be something special.
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Apr 17, 2016 15:55
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Look it really sucks that it's not going to be the Kapool.
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Apr 17, 2016 17:24
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Do you notice the gaps between some stretches of the limbs, the upper arms and abdomen specifically? I'm wondering if it's a transparent kit getting a regular HG release. That's just the way bright light works around the edges of small (relative to the size and intensity of the light source) objects.
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Apr 17, 2016 19:35
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Argh. I started building the PG Zeta that I got from Midjack, finally, and three steps in I stripped the head of a screw. What's the best way to get one of these lovely little fuckers out of a kit? Should I just get a screw extraction kit? Do they even make one small enough to work? How the gently caress do you get these things in without them immediately just melting under the sheer pressure of "I screwed it in a little bit"?
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Apr 17, 2016 20:29
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The Muffinlord posted:Argh. If it's sticking out enough you can get a grip on it, get a pair of vise grips or pliers, grab the sides of the head, and unscrew it by turning. If that doesn't work, since the metal is soft enough to strip easily you can probably just drill it out with a small drill bit and a pin vise or electric drill on really low speed, no special extractor needed.
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Apr 17, 2016 21:04
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I'll try drilling it out. The head's stuck just right so that I can't get a good grip on it because of course it is. Once I'm done with this kit I swear to god I'll never build another Zeta as long as I live.
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Apr 17, 2016 21:18
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The Muffinlord posted:Once I'm done with this kit I swear to god I'll never build another Zeta as long as I live. Word to the wise. Screws in Gunpla were absolutely awful to deal with and I'm glad they managed to find a way around that.
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Apr 17, 2016 21:52
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I don't think I've ever done a kit that had them that hasn't turned into a nightmare in some way.
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Apr 17, 2016 21:55
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Comes a certain point where I just say "gently caress it, Imma glue that poo poo," though that's not always possible or desirable.
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Apr 17, 2016 22:31
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I've never had a problem with them myself, between some older PGs and an S and Ex-S. Unofficial kits though, very much so. Less because they strip and more because they insist on using this tiny-rear end hex key for everything, and it's incredibly frustrating working with it.
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Apr 17, 2016 22:38
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Well, I was able to get it out, by wedging my side cutters under the screw head and twisting them out. And then I screwed it back together without attaching the hydraulic parts for the wrist. Gunpla is hate.
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Apr 17, 2016 22:42
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I had that happen on a Jehuty. I put the neck in upside down four times in a row and the swivel peg finally snapped. Got it right the fifth time, at least.
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Apr 17, 2016 22:50
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