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It's here! It came a lot earlier than they said it was going to, and oh boy there are a lot more parts than any of the older ones I put together. This should be fun!
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Apr 30, 2016 01:00
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You are automatically my friend if you build the wing zero over that winged travesty from endless schmaltz. What's the trick to Titans' color schemes? Some sources call for indy blue and red, others call of midnight blue.
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Apr 30, 2016 01:04
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I tend to default to MG manuals for this sort of thing. And the 2.0 is pretty clear about it being straight Midnight Blue.
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Apr 30, 2016 01:17
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If I weather after dry transfers will that just gently caress up the decals?
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Apr 30, 2016 01:39
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you should do another clear coat after the decals
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Apr 30, 2016 01:42
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muike posted:you should do another clear coat after the decals Does it matter if it's a flat or gloss coat?
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Apr 30, 2016 01:45
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Well what do you want to do after the decals; If it's panel lining, gloss coat. If it's a filter, then go with satin or matt. If it's weathering using ground pigments, pastels and other stuff, matt coat.
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Apr 30, 2016 02:11
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TaurusOxford posted:Gundam X says hi. As far as I can tell, the Gundam X was a regular release. Did I miss something?
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Apr 30, 2016 03:01
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We got a MG X but never got MG X Maoh.
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Apr 30, 2016 03:13
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BlitzBlast posted:We got a MG X but never got MG X Maoh. Right, but the MG X was a regular release. What I was saying about the Powered GM wasn't that Bandai never releases a kit without a remold. It's just doing a metric fuckton of remolding for a single P-Bandai release without as much as a game special edition for a regular release... It would be very odd.
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Apr 30, 2016 03:56
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Ka0 posted:Well what do you want to do after the decals; One last question. If you top coat, then do a filter or wash I should be able to wipe of the paint with a paper towel or q tip and it won't rip apart the dry transfer right?
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Apr 30, 2016 08:56
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The_Rob posted:One last question. If you top coat, then do a filter or wash I should be able to wipe of the paint with a paper towel or q tip and it won't rip apart the dry transfer right? Yes, the top coat protects everything under it. Be sure it's completely dried before doing anything on top of it.
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Apr 30, 2016 15:43
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Well Manicured Man posted:The Gundam Portent is very feminine, and the GN drive on the back can be easily removed. Problem is the part on the front, not the back. It's that big round jewel that cuts things through. I need upper torsos that can replicate that they have garments on, not so much that have big round gems. Otherwise I'd be all over it.
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Apr 30, 2016 17:24
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MJP posted:Problem is the part on the front, not the back. It's that big round jewel that cuts things through. I need upper torsos that can replicate that they have garments on, not so much that have big round gems. Otherwise I'd be all over it. Go on Dalong and scroll down the catalog until you see something that strikes your fancy. Offhand: G-Lucifer Mack Knife and of course, Super Fumina You might check some of the AGE designs as well.
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Apr 30, 2016 18:23
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Just another reminder there are no kits for the Hecate or Barzam, and that that is bullshit.
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Apr 30, 2016 21:22
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So is it probably easier to do line highlights and stuff before the thing is all assembled? Also are there specific pens I should use for that, or would just any kind of fine tipped black sharpie or something work fine?
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Apr 30, 2016 21:24
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Xenothral posted:So is it probably easier to do line highlights and stuff before the thing is all assembled? Also are there specific pens I should use for that, or would just any kind of fine tipped black sharpie or something work fine? Like others said, if you use Sharpies make sure that the surface is dry and the pen is wet. They contain Acetone which, while good for staining plastic with ink, can also strip some paints and weaken cheap ABS plastic when used poorly. If you don't want to worry about that, go for Gundam pens (or any other pens without Acetone). Other than that, go hog wild.
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Apr 30, 2016 21:28
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Neurolimal posted:Like others said, if you use Sharpies make sure that the surface is dry and the pen is wet. They contain Acetone which, while good for staining plastic with ink, can also strip some paints and weaken cheap ABS plastic when used poorly. Right on, I'll probably go find some not-sharpies to do this with then.
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Apr 30, 2016 21:50
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Micron pens are decent if you're dead-set on using pens, otherwise using washes (Vallejo, Flory, Games Workshop [don't give Games Workshop money]) let you fill in lines much faster, but there's a lot more cleanup. They give a little grimier look, too, if you're into that.
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Apr 30, 2016 21:56
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BizarroAzrael posted:Just another reminder there are no kits for the Hecate or Barzam, and that that is bullshit. Yo.
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Apr 30, 2016 23:23
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EDIT: Welp, double post. Uhhhhh a friend of mine did some measurements and found out HG Barbatos is like a whole head taller than HG Exia? Dunno which one is off scale though. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Apr 30, 2016 |
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Apr 30, 2016 23:23
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BlitzBlast posted:EDIT: Welp, double post. Uhhhhh a friend of mine did some measurements and found out HG Barbatos is like a whole head taller than HG Exia? High heel pumps Barbatos (form 6) or jogging sneakers Barbatos (any other form)?
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Apr 30, 2016 23:39
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BlitzBlast posted:EDIT: Welp, double post. Uhhhhh a friend of mine did some measurements and found out HG Barbatos is like a whole head taller than HG Exia? I did a side-by-side check with the G-Self, which is supposed to be (and is) the same height as the Barbatos at eighteen metres, and shorter than the 18.3-metre Exia, and the problem is with the Exia - it's absolutely tiny. No big surprise, really - the HG 00 line are pretty compromised compared to modern kits.
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Apr 30, 2016 23:55
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Don't be bitter at the pro modellers, don't be bitter at the pro modellers...
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May 1, 2016 03:12
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Started building my first RG model tonight, the RX-78. I don't know what I was expecting, but I was surprised to find the whole inner frame limb pre-assembled situation it has. I have no idea how they do that or the MG hands that are all on one tree, but I'm impressed that they do. Also the amount of stickers is pretty overwhelming. Figured I should start on this kit before the Strike Freedom I got on the shelf.
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May 1, 2016 09:01
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Darth Walrus posted:I did a side-by-side check with the G-Self, which is supposed to be (and is) the same height as the Barbatos at eighteen metres, and shorter than the 18.3-metre Exia, and the problem is with the Exia - it's absolutely tiny. No big surprise, really - the HG 00 line are pretty compromised compared to modern kits. Told my friend this and he broke out a ruler in response. At a headheight of ~13 cm when it should be 12.5, the Barbatos is closer to 1/135 than 1/144. G-Self is presumably similarly flawed. It actually seems like Bandai hasn't really gone for exact scale accuracy for a while now.
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May 1, 2016 09:06
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Exact scale is kind of a bullshit concept when talking about fictional robots anyways.
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May 1, 2016 09:37
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When they give you an actual size number right there in the instructions they make it easily falsifiable. I don't get too worried about it either since they're fictional but it's an easy thing to get right and it's frustrating that they don't.
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May 1, 2016 13:35
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zelah posted:Started building my first RG model tonight, the RX-78. I don't know what I was expecting, but I was surprised to find the whole inner frame limb pre-assembled situation it has. I have no idea how they do that or the MG hands that are all on one tree, but I'm impressed that they do. I was equally surprised on both accounts with my Char Z'gok; I was absolutely not expecting a sprue with the majority of the frame pre-assembled. I wonder how/why they do that, do they fill the mold with the pieces at separate angles, then attach the joints together before they're put in the bag? I certainly can't imagine they have a molding process so perfect that they can form a sprue with already-working joints. The nice thing about the RG kits is that superior color separation means that very few of the immense number of stickers are 'mandatory', for the Z'gok the only important stickers are the five metallic stickers for the inner pieces between the limbs and body.
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May 1, 2016 18:23
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Building this now has me coveting the MG 3.0 even thought I have the The Origin version already. That color separation on the limbs is doing something to me.
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May 1, 2016 18:43
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Neurolimal posted:I was equally surprised on both accounts with my Char Z'gok; I was absolutely not expecting a sprue with the majority of the frame pre-assembled. I wonder how/why they do that, do they fill the mold with the pieces at separate angles, then attach the joints together before they're put in the bag? I certainly can't imagine they have a molding process so perfect that they can form a sprue with already-working joints. I think they just mold part of the sprue, slap the result onto a second mold, and inject the rest of the sprue onto it. Same way your toothbrush has hard plastic with grippy rubber parts molded into it. Joints are formed automatically where the peg of a finished sprue gets encapsulated by molten plastic going through the second stage mold or vice versa.
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May 1, 2016 19:57
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Neurolimal posted:I wonder how/why they do that, Look up ultrasonic welding. They're good enough at it now that they can even fit in polycaps into the frames. It's pretty neat.
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May 1, 2016 20:34
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Xy Hapu posted:I think they just mold part of the sprue, slap the result onto a second mold, and inject the rest of the sprue onto it. Same way your toothbrush has hard plastic with grippy rubber parts molded into it. Joints are formed automatically where the peg of a finished sprue gets encapsulated by molten plastic going through the second stage mold or vice versa. BlitzBlast posted:Look up ultrasonic welding. That's pretty clever, I'm mostly used to viewing toys/models as sculptures and assuming low-tech solutions, so I wasn't even aware of ultrasonic welding or forming limbs one-half at a time. I assume this process is too expensive for HG's, or at least too unreliable with the brittle ABS plastic that is used (I noticed that the RG's inner frame is a flexible & durable rubbery plastic).
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May 1, 2016 21:09
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Just interested in a second opinion here: I'm liking the Build Arms blades, but I'm wondering if they'll stand out too much compared to the rest of the [so far] design. I was also wondering if it'd be a good idea to customize them to be two-pronged blades with inner workings in the middle of the hilt (for visual cohesiveness with the rockets on the shoulders), or if I should just abide by "Keep It Simple, Stupid." (Yeah I know that the skirt is waaay further out than the rest of the body, I'm going to raise the part below the triangles to match them and hopefully make it less blatant today)
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May 2, 2016 15:02
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Yo, what's a good place to get Mr. Color paints in the US (I mean shipping from and to the US)
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May 4, 2016 05:34
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I hate these things, and they're making more of them
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May 4, 2016 14:08
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boom boom boom posted:I hate these things, and they're making more of them Gelgoog been eatin' his spinach.
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May 4, 2016 14:11
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boom boom boom posted:I hate these things, and they're making more of them Yeah that looks like crap
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May 4, 2016 14:27
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Gentei Kits is having a 10% off sale on in in stock items. Just apply "maycloset" to your order. If you ever wanted a MG Mega Bazooka Launcher, a MG Crossbone X3, or a MG Red Frame, this is your chance. Ka0 posted:Yo, what's a good place to get Mr. Color paints in the US (I mean shipping from and to the US) Hobbywave if you're going for bulk orders. eBay or Amazon if you just want one thing for cheaper. I recall a friend of mine telling me a better site for single orders, but the name escapes me at the moment. Sorry.
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May 4, 2016 14:31
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| # ? May 26, 2024 20:58 |
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Thanks I'll check with hobbywave.
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May 4, 2016 16:21
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