|
Holy poo poo my bush beans have just exploded out of the ground with massive seedlings! Yesterday morning they were all still bent over, just a curved stalk poking up, but when I got home from work one was already straight up and spreading some big leaves.
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2016 14:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 04:15 |
|
|
PDP-1 posted:Thanks for the advice. I ditched the dead cilantro and picked up some mint and Thai basil. No worries about the mint taking over since this is a potted window garden above my kitchen sink, and hoo boy do I love me some Thai basil chicken so that's all good too. Congrats! soon you'll be like me, typing on SA surrounded by seed packets.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2016 14:38
|
|
|
"Good night, Cillantro. You are weak and wilty, but I have hope the night's rains will revive you." 18 hours later "WHY ARE YOU THREE FEET TALL AND BOLTED"
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2016 16:27
|
|
|
Sounds like why I never grow spinach anymore
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2016 05:11
|
|
|
The Serrano chili I got from Home Depot is way too mature for late April (Mid Atlantic). I picked off all the flowers and buds, hope it will go back into a vegetative state and get bigger. Did I screw up? It was an impulse buy, not a huge deal. All my other peppers are maybe an inch tall, the ones I started from seed. Burpee Big Thai Hybrid are beast plants. Others are Capsicum chinense, tend to be smaller.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2016 15:56
|
|
|
Comb Your Beard posted:The Serrano chili I got from Home Depot is way too mature for late April (Mid Atlantic). I picked off all the flowers and buds, hope it will go back into a vegetative state and get bigger. Did I screw up? Not at all. I'm in zone 6a and if I didn't pull the blossoms off my peppers until mid-June, I'd end up with a bunch of 12-18" tall plants with less than a dozen peppers on it by the end of the season. My habs don't get much taller than that anyway; I'm thinking more like jalapeņos, cayenne, poblanos, etc. that normally grow 3 - 4' tall.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2016 19:13
|
|
|
Shame Boner posted:Not at all. I'm in zone 6a and if I didn't pull the blossoms off my peppers until mid-June, I'd end up with a bunch of 12-18" tall plants with less than a dozen peppers on it by the end of the season. My habs don't get much taller than that anyway; I'm thinking more like jalapeņos, cayenne, poblanos, etc. that normally grow 3 - 4' tall. Should I be picking blossoms off my cherry tomatoes? I bought two cherry tomato plants from Home Depot to augment my Momotaro seedlings, and both of them are putting out a few blossoms even though they're no more than a foot high.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2016 19:28
|
|
|
coyo7e posted:Sounds like why I never grow spinach anymore Grow New Zealand spinach - it's a separate species that has a similar taste. Does not bolt, you can grow it throughout the summer. Delicious too, with a little thicker leaves and stem that makes it stand up a little better to cooking.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2016 04:19
|
|
|
vonnegutt posted:Grow New Zealand spinach - it's a separate species that has a similar taste. Does not bolt, you can grow it throughout the summer. Delicious too, with a little thicker leaves and stem that makes it stand up a little better to cooking. I've tried to get new zealand spinach to germinate for 2 seasons now and nothing. grrr. I soak and nick too. Annoying.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2016 13:17
|
|
|
My sister was out for a walk recently and found a pickup truck along the side of the road full of seedlings with a sign saying, "free, please take some!" She grabbed a couple for me, but I have no idea what they are. They say "pepper seq" and "tom premo." They're definitely a pepper and tomato plant, but I'm wondering of what variety? Any ideas what they might be? My Google Fu is failing me.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2016 17:28
|
|
|
kedo posted:My sister was out for a walk recently and found a pickup truck along the side of the road full of seedlings with a sign saying, "free, please take some!" She grabbed a couple for me, but I have no idea what they are. Could it perhaps be these? "Pepper sequoia" https://www.harrisseeds.com/storefront/p-14483-pepper-sequoia-f1.aspx "Tomato primo" https://www.harrisseeds.com/storefront/p-13266-tomato-primo-red.aspx
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2016 17:51
|
|
|
Makes sense to me, thanks!
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2016 18:22
|
|
|
kedo posted:Makes sense to me, thanks! I'm just guessing, all I did was type the two labels into Google, and the first results seemed sensible.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2016 19:27
|
|
|
Hi gardengoons- I know this is vegetables chat, but this is IN my veggie box and I don't know what it is. My mom and I have a shared raised bed garden, and we threw an ancient packet of wildflower seeds in there that we found when moving. It was 6 or 7 years old, so we doubted any would sprout. Surprisingly, a few came up! We've ID'd all of them but this one.  Any clues? It's an off white with a green and purple fronded center. At least it's pretty. 
Freakbox fucked around with this message at 06:23 on May 2, 2016 |
|
#
?
May 2, 2016 06:19
|
|
|
Can I ask a question about fruit trees here? I just moved into a house with a couple of cherry trees and a pear tree. The pear tree lost a main branch due to a heavy, unseasonably late snowfall, so I assume it's not going to be producing much fruit this year. The cherries, however, have already started growing fruit. My dad tells me to spray them every week so they don't get worms, but 1) I thought you weren't supposed to spray them if you wanted to eat them (and not poison the birds) and 2) even if spraying is advised, every week seems excessive. Googling around, I don't see people recommending spraying as a routine matter of course.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2016 16:29
|
|
|
Honestly, it depends what you're spraying. But every week does sound excessive. Spraying is not going to kill you or the Here is the UC IPM page for Cherries. You can look up the pest you're trying to combat and get suggestions on how to do so. Alternatively, you can always call your county extension office and get their advice. In regards to the pear tree, as long as the other main scaffolds are OK, you should get some fruit off those. When the fruit gets to about a ping pong ball, or golf ball size, gently shake the limbs and you'll knock off any immature fruit which will help the good fruit you do have. jvick fucked around with this message at 20:56 on May 2, 2016 |
|
#
?
May 2, 2016 20:48
|
|
|
jvick posted:Honestly, it depends what you're spraying. But every week does sound excessive. Spraying is not going to kill you or the Thanks. Your link made me think about looking for my local ag extension's website. Turns out you do need to apply something (Sevrin, Ortho, permethrin?) every 7-10 days, but only once the fruit starts to turn pink or the temp is consistently 75 degrees or higher. My nemesis is the Cherry fruit fly and it might not even be much of a problem. Apparently, I'm supposed to put up a trap and see if I catch any before I spray since I only have two small trees.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2016 03:21
|
|
|
Freakbox posted:Hi gardengoons- I know this is vegetables chat, but this is IN my veggie box and I don't know what it is. That's a Nigella damascena.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2016 12:23
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:Should I be picking blossoms off my cherry tomatoes? I bought two cherry tomato plants from Home Depot to augment my Momotaro seedlings, and both of them are putting out a few blossoms even though they're no more than a foot high. I grow my tomatoes from seed every year, so I've never had any try to set fruit so early in development. My tendency is to say yes in this situation, since the energy expended on blossoms/fruiting is energy that it's not putting into vegetative growth.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2016 14:28
|
|
|
Shame Boner posted:I grow my tomatoes from seed every year, so I've never had any try to set fruit so early in development. My tendency is to say yes in this situation, since the energy expended on blossoms/fruiting is energy that it's not putting into vegetative growth. Quick question on this: I have a hydroponic tomato that I was growing indoors. It made some flowers, but then it experienced flower droop, and they died. The plant is still large and healthy, so I moved it outside. Once flowers come and go, is it possible for them to come back? Is the plant now non productive since it tried to flower and failed?
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2016 20:04
|
|
|
dhrusis posted:Quick question on this: I have a hydroponic tomato that I was growing indoors. It made some flowers, but then it experienced flower droop, and they died. The plant is still large and healthy, so I moved it outside. Once flowers come and go, is it possible for them to come back? Is the plant now non productive since it tried to flower and failed? Indeterminate varieties will flower constantly under the right conditions. Determinates tend to flower all at once but they might try again. The season here isn't long enough for me to have ever seen it happen.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2016 23:16
|
|
|
dhrusis posted:Quick question on this: I have a hydroponic tomato that I was growing indoors. It made some flowers, but then it experienced flower droop, and they died. The plant is still large and healthy, so I moved it outside. Once flowers come and go, is it possible for them to come back? Is the plant now non productive since it tried to flower and failed? They won't come back in those locations, but if it's an indeterminate vine it will produce more blossoms as it grows. What's the variety? Some heirlooms are known to have low pollination rates and some blossom drop is normal. Otherwise it could be an issue with your nutrient solution.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2016 23:34
|
|
|
Rogue posted:They won't come back in those locations, but if it's an indeterminate vine it will produce more blossoms as it grows. What's the variety? Some heirlooms are known to have low pollination rates and some blossom drop is normal. Otherwise it could be an issue with your nutrient solution. Thanks plant bros! It's a cherry tomato variety, and its probably about 60 days old now... I turned the nutes over to "flower" about 30 days ago, and it produced some flowers, but I think it was too hot in the enclosed container that I was growing it in (I'm the guy doing half-researched experiments with fully containerized indoor gardens) and I think that was the cause of the droop. I dont know very much more about the plant type other than Cherry...
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2016 12:56
|
|
|
Yeah, temperatures that are too hot can be another reason for blossom drop. Keep playing around to get your conditions right. Where did you get the seeds from that you don't know the variety name?
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2016 14:46
|
|
|
Cherry tomatoes should produce a lot of flowers as it grows. So be aiming for that result.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2016 19:23
|
|
|
I have rabbit problems. Will planting marigolds help or is that just fable? They are breeding in the neighborhood and jump up into my raised beds
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2016 23:49
|
|
|
Planet X posted:I have rabbit problems. Will planting marigolds help or is that just fable? Rabbits love marigolds. Marigolds do keep bugs away though. Best thing for rabbits is a dog, a gun, or Hardware Cloth.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2016 01:35
|
|
|
Little more difficult to get, but my rabbit problem went away when a pair of hawks moved in across the street. And by went away I mean got turned into hawk poop. Along with several neighbor's chickens (all the rest live in runs now).
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2016 02:18
|
|
|
Planet X posted:I have rabbit problems. Will planting marigolds help or is that just fable?
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2016 06:51
|
|
|
coyo7e posted:Shoot them (with a dinky airsoft/bb gun), or tie a jack russell terrier in your front yard and make sure he has enough shelter to not get you arrested for neglect Rabbits will only be wounded by an airsoft gun, so that's cruel. You need a high powered bb gun, something +900fps, loaded with pellets.. A dog is a lifetime commitment, don't go getting a dog just to tie out there. I meant, go let an existing dog hang out there. Specifically between the hours of 5am and 9am, then 4pm to past dark. You might even borrow a friend's for a few days.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2016 12:37
|
|
|
There are a couple of things working for us. First, we have a boxer, who chases the rabbits out of the yard and back under the right side neighbor's shed, where they live. She's constantly at the fence looking at them and making her presence known. Second, there is a whippet in the yard to the left, and any rabbit brave or fool enough to go in there when she's around is likely to be taken care of right quick. She got a bunch last year. At least those two things are a deterrent. I figured I"d ask the thread if there was anything anyone knew of, so thanks for the advice. Sounds like outside of a dog or a gun (can't, we're downtown), we've done what we could, aside from fencing. It's good to know the hours of activity though, and the dog is out more that it's nice outside. We're thinking of some kind of netting, but I imagine that gets impractical after a while. Maybe we'll consider some fencing, but that's a lot of work. At least they're just digging and not outright destroying anything, although they did munch all the nice chard that had survived the winter. That upset me.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2016 20:50
|
|
|
Could someone please clarify? I still don't understand proper tomato plant trimming. Here is the end of the stem. Are any of those suckers that should be popped? Or are they potential flower clusters and should be left alone? My goal this year is two main stems and all of plants already have two. So I don't want to leave any suckers but I certainly don't want to just waste flowers.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2016 21:44
|
|
|
Planet X posted:We're thinking of some kind of netting, but I imagine that gets impractical after a while. Maybe we'll consider some fencing, but that's a lot of work. At least they're just digging and not outright destroying anything, although they did munch all the nice chard that had survived the winter. That upset me. Netting won't do much of anything for rabbits. If you need to fence them out you're looking at hardware cloth. Since they will just dig under it if you put it at ground level you need to put about 12 inches of it a few inches down in the soil horizontally towards the outside of the garden. So basically fold it in half and bury one side to use at the bottom of whatever fencing solution you choose.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2016 21:50
|
|
|
Planet X posted:Sounds like outside of a dog or a gun (can't, we're downtown), we've done what we could, aside from fencing. Your gun solution Get 5' or 6' fencing and bury it about 12" in the ground and you'll be fine. A bit of upfront work, but it will last many years. If you use hardware cloth, it helps against gophers as well if you have a problem there.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2016 06:11
|
|
|
I doubt you'd need 6' fencing to keep rabbits out, 4' should be fine. Burying hardware cloth is a bit of a pain but it's only an afternoon's worth of work and definitely worth the effort. My grandpa's had decent luck with this stuff. Rabbits wiped out his first batch of seedlings but haven't touched any since he started using it but ymmv http://www.amazon.com/Deer-Rabbit-Squirrel-Repellent-Concentrate/dp/B000BX4VWE
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2016 14:59
|
|
|
Ausrotten posted:Burying hardware cloth is a bit of a pain but it's only an afternoon's worth of work and definitely worth the effort. Should have mentioned this: rent a sod cutter. It's cheat mode for burying hardware cloth if you've got enough to make it worthwhile. Just cut the sod from around your garden and roll it up. Install hardware cloth and attach to your fence, roll the sod back and water. Done.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2016 16:02
|
|
|
Need some help/advice on rough-looking plants. This is my first year starting a big garden from seed in my basement and I think now that I made a few key mistakes: starting things a few weeks too early in my eagerness, and overwatering. I had everything in 4" pots in the standard 1040 trays, and I bottom-watered them by pouring water into the tray; but, I think I overdid it by always having some water in the tray and filling it up every morning. I probably should have let the tray go dry and let the plant just draw water from the mix in the 4" pot so that everything wasn't so wet all the time, because I think I encouraged some fungus type things to grow. Does that sound right? It looks like my cucumbers and summer/winter squashes have some kind of mildew on them. A few of my tomatoes have wilting/death of the lowest leaves on the vine. The two watermelons have 1) brown scabbing in between the leaf veins (what is this?) and 2) small yellow spots on the leaves. Any advice? Should I just scrap all of the squashes and cucumbers and just plant new seeds directly into the soil? I'm in zone 5b and our last frost date is May 15th so I would probably be fine to just start over with those... Here are the pictures: http://imgur.com/a/PPgpw
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2016 16:43
|
|
|
Same Great Paste posted:Could someone please clarify? I still don't understand proper tomato plant trimming. Here is the end of the stem. Are any of those suckers that should be popped? Or are they potential flower clusters and should be left alone? My goal this year is two main stems and all of plants already have two. So I don't want to leave any suckers but I certainly don't want to just waste flowers. That leaf center-frame face-on to the camera in the crotch of the two stems is a sucker. Whether or not you should pop it off is really a matter of preference from what I've seen and read. Leave them on for bushier plants, pull (most of) them off if you want to train it into a vine-like shape on a trellis. People will say one way will yield better or more tomatoes than the other but in my personal experience I haven't seen a huge different between the two methods. I tend to pull the suckers on the lower parts of the plant off so that the main stem gets good air flow and I can water them more easily, but let the top bits do what they want until they become unruly. e: Yeah, if you want just two main stems and already have them I would say pull the sucker off. They will appear in the crotches of stems like that as the plant grows. Everything else in that picture is a leaf. If you are unsure of if one is a sucker or not, you can wait until they grow several inches long and it will be more obvious that it is a new stem with its own leaves and whatnot. TheToxicEuphoria fucked around with this message at 18:45 on May 9, 2016 |
|
#
?
May 9, 2016 18:40
|
|
|
I've got a couple tomato questions. 1) I'm growing 3 types of tomatoes, 6 plants of each variety. One of my varieties has these weird twisty branches and leaves, well 5/6 of them do.. one is perfectly fine. These were Ebay seeds. They keep growing, but they look gnarly. I've tried cutting back on their water as well as increasing it over the past 2 weeks to no real effect. Anybody seen anything like it? They are 'Trucker's Favorite' seeds.  2) I just snapped the top of one of my tomato plants off where it was growing from... It's got about 3 branches with big true leaves on it. Will it be able to mend from such a trauma? Thanks!
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2016 21:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 04:15 |
|
|
extravadanza posted:2) I just snapped the top of one of my tomato plants off where it was growing from... It's got about 3 branches with big true leaves on it. Will it be able to mend from such a trauma? If you just stick that in some dirt and water it, it'll probably root and survive.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2016 21:36
|
|