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Yeah there are a few different shapes of typical surface / bearing scrapers. I only see those in the metalworking / machinist world, so I'm not too familiar. Basically, on an old machined surface (precision ways, for example), you'll often see these cool scrape marks, which are either from a flattening process or added by hand after a surface is machined, so it can hold a bit of oil / grease between two perfectly flat planes. Or something...
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May 16, 2016 04:31
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yeah scraping cast iron, or babbit bearings. I know a guy who does stuff like that still. Currently restoring a german rip saw he found in the woods, made in 1887 and cast new babbit bearings which he then scraped for best fit, and converted it to motor instead of line powered. Going to use it commercially and is fitting it with homemade but modern standard features.
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May 16, 2016 07:16
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So he's pretty much just building a loving saw from scratch then. awesome.
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May 16, 2016 07:53
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Gonna steal some pics from a swedish place he posts at Starting to prepping for casting  Gotta make a new scraper tool though    He has a tendency to overbuild things   Everything is made from scrap from the junkyard, shaped & welded, even the lumber is stuff he cut down himself and then had milled at a sawmill. Being unemployed and starting a new company on zero budget, well he's got skills and labor is free when you're unemployed. The motor (3-ph 7-5kW) was also taken from the junk yard for 50 bucks.
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May 16, 2016 08:26
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Owns.
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May 16, 2016 09:13
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I'll be keeping an eye on local news stories for "Man builds death machine, wins our heart".
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May 16, 2016 15:47
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scientists make transparent wood
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May 16, 2016 18:42
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I thought this was really cool until I read "The next step was to pour epoxy over the block, which made it four to six times stronger." Not to mention the amount of chemicals needed. If you have to boil your wood in "a bath of water, sodium hydroxide and other chemicals for about two hours" and then epoxy it to make it usable... you might be letting the tail wag the dog.
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May 16, 2016 20:33
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Guitarchitect posted:I thought this was really cool until I read "The next step was to pour epoxy over the block, which made it four to six times stronger." Yeah I wonder what the strength properties of wood boiled in lye for 2 hours are like. Encasing it in epoxy does feel like cheating, but I wonder how workable it is before that (or if it is just a pulpy mass)
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May 16, 2016 20:53
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Hubis posted:Yeah I wonder what the strength properties of wood boiled in lye for 2 hours are like. Encasing it in epoxy does feel like cheating, but I wonder how workable it is before that (or if it is just a pulpy mass) Isn't ligin what makes wood strong? Seems like they could just do this process with and plant to leave a bunch of cells behind. What's the advantage of this over just making a block of epoxy I wonder.
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May 16, 2016 21:10
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Squibbles posted:Isn't ligin what makes wood strong? Seems like they could just do this process with and plant to leave a bunch of cells behind. What's the advantage of this over just making a block of epoxy I wonder. This way you get a bunch of nerds on the internet talking about it.
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May 16, 2016 21:45
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Peter Brown is obviously behind this.
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May 16, 2016 22:48
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Squibbles posted:Isn't ligin what makes wood strong? Seems like they could just do this process with and plant to leave a bunch of cells behind. What's the advantage of this over just making a block of epoxy I wonder. Well from the sound of it you are still left with the remains of the wood fibers, so I guess it's kind of like an organic fiberglass? But yeah like many research projects it sounds more like a "just to see if we can" type affair
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May 16, 2016 23:30
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I thought some of you might be interested in this. My grandfather passed away recently and my parents had been going through the estate getting it ready for auction. They had been looking for woodworking tools while doing it and brought the following: There is a shoulder plane at the bottom and a table leaf one in the middle. The one on the right has this on the front:  My grandfather had worked for a time in Louisville at Belknap, so it was pretty neat seeing this. All of it is in pretty decent shape. I really have no idea what the small black piece is in the middle of the planes. It's labeled Stanley, and the point on it screws in and is labeled No. 4. Does anyone know what this is called? 
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May 17, 2016 00:21
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Frohike999 posted:I really have no idea what the small black piece is in the middle of the planes. It's labeled Stanley, and the point on it screws in and is labeled No. 4. Does anyone know what this is called? Looks like one of a pair of trammel points.
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May 17, 2016 00:54
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Looks like one of a pair of trammel points. Ah yep that must be it, I had an identical one with it. Thanks!
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May 17, 2016 01:20
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Accidentally knocked a bit of the corner off of the cheap rear end medicine cabinet in our bathroom, so I made a new one.  I need to file down the screws on the hinges a bit and add a felt pad to the magnet catch, but overall it turned out real nice.
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May 18, 2016 17:46
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So I got some outdoor adirondack chairs to give to my wife for our anniversary, and they are unfinished oak. I want them to last a bit so I plan on finishing them. I've tried researching some online but guides often have completely different approaches, and most importantly don't suggest specific products. What exactly should I do, and what stain / epoxy / varnish / whatevers should I use? I know I should do some light sanding, then I figured two coats of a light stain from miniwax, but then what? Just put on a varnish? Epoxy then varnish? Use a topcoat (is that any different?) Notes on specific products to use would be appreciated.
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May 18, 2016 20:31
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Bozart posted:So I got some outdoor adirondack chairs to give to my wife for our anniversary, and they are unfinished oak. I want them to last a bit so I plan on finishing them. I've tried researching some online but guides often have completely different approaches, and most importantly don't suggest specific products. One coat of stain, two polyurethane.
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May 18, 2016 20:38
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Here is a jewelry box that I made for my wife out of Walnut and Hackberry. This is a "logs to lumber to finished product" project. I cut both trees down about 2 years ago. There was lots of resawing with this project. The front, back, and inside panels were resawed and bookmatched. The two side panels match. Lots of little dovetails. Everything is held closed with magnets. Here are some sort video clips. https://www.instagram.com/p/BFhiPx7lSD4/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BFhik_UlSEn/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BFhi2P7lSFN/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BFhjSZWlSGC/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BFh9r3vFSHE/ https://www.instagram.com/p/BFh96RllSHb/
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May 18, 2016 20:50
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Good haul at the auctions today. They're all huge and awesome. The crosscut saw is 42 inches long on the blade.
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May 18, 2016 21:07
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Bozart posted:So I got some outdoor adirondack chairs to give to my wife for our anniversary, and they are unfinished oak. I want them to last a bit so I plan on finishing them. I've tried researching some online but guides often have completely different approaches, and most importantly don't suggest specific products. Spar var is an outdoor varnish. Idk about putting that over epoxy
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May 18, 2016 22:28
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Mr. Mambold posted:Spar var is an outdoor varnish. Idk about putting that over epoxy Yeah I don't know poo poo about dick here.
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May 19, 2016 00:19
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Bozart posted:unfinished oak. White oak will last decades if kept off soil. Once you put a finish on, you start a cycle of constant upkeep. I know white oak buildings that have been exposed without finish for 80 years and are still going strong. If it's red oak then a finish is probably a good idea, or a deck stain.
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May 19, 2016 02:03
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Hey woodworking thread, been lurking for a bit while watching YouTube and reading up on things, getting ready to build random stuff myself. Here's some dumb questions some quick internet searching couldn't answer.wormil posted:Okay, so I made one of these Thales Squares. Very easy, took about 5 minutes. As long as you make all 3 points exactly the same length it is very accurate. If the corner is out of square it is very obvious. And uh kind of a general curiosity question that came up while thinking about that, anyone know why sliding T bevels are designed the way they are? Like the pointy and rounded ends, and sliding vs a fixed L or T pivot point.
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May 20, 2016 00:36
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wormil posted:White oak will last decades if kept off soil. Once you put a finish on, you start a cycle of constant upkeep. I know white oak buildings that have been exposed without finish for 80 years and are still going strong. If it's red oak then a finish is probably a good idea, or a deck stain. I don't know what species it is in particular, but I'm guessing it is the cheapest oak. I was looking at the online reviews and quite a few complained that it split and deteriorated after a single season, which is why I figured that finishing it would be a good idea.
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May 20, 2016 01:49
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It'll be red or white oak 99% of the time. Red is cheap and common; white is more expensive and very weather resistant. Post a pic.
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May 20, 2016 02:33
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japtor posted:. Any reason that design couldn't be used as a T bevel, or T bevels tweaked a bit to do the Thales square trick? Two different tools with two different purposes. The square could be used to copy angles, sometimes. You might be interested in something called a twelve in one tool.
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May 20, 2016 02:40
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wormil posted:It'll be red or white oak 99% of the time. Red is cheap and common; white is more expensive and very weather resistant. Post a pic. Haven't received it yet. The product is here - the video says they put linseed oil on it. Maybe I should just apply some more and then reapply every year?
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May 20, 2016 03:05
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Bozart posted:Haven't received it yet. The product is here - the video says they put linseed oil on it. Maybe I should just apply some more and then reapply every year? That's red oak. You may as well piss on it as put linseed oil on for any protection that will give it. It's not an exterior finish, and red oak isn't an outdoor grade lumber. I hate people who make "outdoor" products from red oak, it wasn't meant to be. It's great for interior woodwork only, imo. You'd be better going with a couple coats of spar varnish or even epoxy on it like you first said.
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May 20, 2016 03:19
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japtor posted:I was looking into sliding T bevels today and remembered this thingy. Any reason that design couldn't be used as a T bevel, or T bevels tweaked a bit to do the Thales square trick? Doesnt look like that thales square holds the angle consistently. T bevels generally lock in place so you get the same angle each time.
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May 20, 2016 03:48
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's red oak. Hold on, not so fast. White oak is actually brown and color-wise they can be similar. From those pictures I'm not seeing the big pores of red oak. Here is a customer picture and it looks like white oak to me. http://powerreviews.s3.amazonaws.com/images_customers/05/70/70229194_636272_full.jpg
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May 20, 2016 07:12
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http://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/tls/5594606088.html I'm a couple hours from picking up this bad boy. Any hints on where I can look for problems? So far, I was going to check the blades for nicks and see how easily the blade spins.
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May 20, 2016 14:11
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wormil posted:Hold on, not so fast. White oak is actually brown and color-wise they can be similar. From those pictures I'm not seeing the big pores of red oak. Here is a customer picture and it looks like white oak to me. I am receiving it tomorrow, so I'll take some better photos. Or I guess I can just email them and ask.
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May 20, 2016 14:31
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Cannon_Fodder posted:http://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/tls/5594606088.html That's identical to the Porter-Cable I have and the fence is crappy. Really crappy. It makes edge jointing annoying. A lot of other people have reported problems with the tables being coplanar but I didn't have to make serious adjustments to mine. You should check yours though.
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May 20, 2016 14:40
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wormil posted:Hold on, not so fast. White oak is actually brown and color-wise they can be similar. Agreed. wormil posted:From those pictures I'm not seeing the big pores of red oak. Here is a customer picture and it looks like white oak to me. Here's what I was basing my opinion off of. But, this morning most of that looks like white oak grain pattern, ftm.  And this side table thingy that looks definitely like white oak to me, so I will retract and recommend.  
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May 20, 2016 15:57
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Stultus Maximus posted:That's identical to the Porter-Cable I have and the fence is crappy. Really crappy. It makes edge jointing annoying. Picked it up anyway. I checked the blade for any problems and immediately cut my finger. I'm stupid.
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May 20, 2016 17:43
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wormil posted:Two different tools with two different purposes. The square could be used to copy angles, sometimes. You might be interested in something called a twelve in one tool.
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May 20, 2016 17:44
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japtor posted:Oh those look pretty neat, and there's a few on eBay...really tempting to get one, even though I'd probably just keep it around as a neat vintage tool more than something I'd use. I bought one and keep it in my shop apron because it does so many things in a pinch. Don't pay too much and don't believe them if they say they are brass. They are made of German silver.
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May 20, 2016 18:45
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Mr. Mambold posted:Agreed. So if it is white oak I should keep it away from dirt, should I apply linseed oil or just leave it alone?
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May 20, 2016 23:42
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