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  "Eh...I might shoot you or I might not shoot you, I dunno."
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Jun 3, 2016 00:09
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| # ? May 28, 2024 12:07 |
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The deal with it Gundam
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Jun 3, 2016 00:11
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The Gyancelot looks fancy. The RG Sinanju looks fancier.
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Jun 3, 2016 00:14
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I feel like the Sinanju looks a lot better than it did at the Hobby Expo, but I might be crazy
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Jun 3, 2016 00:52
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Swagger Dagger posted:I feel like the Sinanju looks a lot better than it did at the Hobby Expo, but I might be crazy Yeah, it was too drat shiny when they first showed it
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Jun 3, 2016 01:04
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Kaiju Cage Match posted:
The funny thing is that it would have looked better if the right arm was just left alone.
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Jun 3, 2016 01:22
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 It's beautiful. 
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Jun 3, 2016 01:23
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I'm still surprised Bandai made the gold trim separate pieces and not stickers. They did it, the absolute madmen.
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Jun 3, 2016 01:24
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Can't say the HG Hyaku Shiki Revive really sings to me, especially after that lovely-looking MG they released not that long ago. Goddamnit, now I'm craving a Qubeley 2.0 all over again.
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Jun 3, 2016 01:30
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Kaiju Cage Match posted:I'm still surprised Bandai made the gold trim separate pieces and not stickers. Time for me to actually buy a Sinanju kit. Also that Gyancelot  .
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Jun 3, 2016 02:08
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Kaiju Cage Match posted:I'm still surprised Bandai made the gold trim separate pieces and not stickers. Do Gunpla have the same problem Transformers do where gold plastic is the brittlest poo poo?
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Jun 3, 2016 02:12
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Funky Valentine posted:Do Gunpla have the same problem Transformers do where gold plastic is the brittlest poo poo? no, it does not
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Jun 3, 2016 02:13
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Funky Valentine posted:Do Gunpla have the same problem Transformers do where gold plastic is the brittlest poo poo? Droyer posted:no, it does not Imagine the outrage from Strike Freedom fans if it did though. 
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Jun 3, 2016 02:20
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TaurusOxford posted:Imagine the outrage from Strike Freedom fans if it did though. Maybe on ones not the MG where its just sorta goldy yellow plastic vs being actually shiny : (
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Jun 3, 2016 02:32
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 Gotta say, I'm a lot less keen on this big scarlet bastard now after some new details have been shown on it.  The big flip-out shoulder parts are just a clunky flight pack. I was hoping for bigass switchblades  .
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Jun 3, 2016 04:53
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 oh god here we go it's finally happening
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Jun 3, 2016 05:40
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Neddy Seagoon posted:
That's the first suit in IBO capable of atmospheric flight, right?
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Jun 3, 2016 05:41
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Unless it's like an Aile Strike situation, probably.
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Jun 3, 2016 05:47
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That's a good lookin robbit. Needs a Fuunsaiki.
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Jun 3, 2016 05:53
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 Finished both the 1/100 Barbatos kits. 6th form is a pain to pose without it just erupting under the weight of that crab hammer.
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Jun 3, 2016 07:06
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 My Prototype Gouf found a friend. This kit is pretty drat solid. Only 90 degrees of elbow movement, but the thing is chunky and easy to pose. Now onto the RG Zaku II.
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Jun 3, 2016 07:50
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They've gotten a lot of use out of that new Gouf mold, they'll get around to the Custom eventually
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Jun 3, 2016 08:29
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Neddy Seagoon posted:
I suspect that cutting dudes up is indeed a secondary (or possibly even primary) function of those shoulder-pieces. They wouldn't have coloured them like that otherwise. I'm thinking it's a Gaia Gundam thing.
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Jun 3, 2016 10:02
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boom boom boom posted:They've gotten a lot of use out of that new Gouf mold, they'll get around to the Custom eventually I'm holding out for an RG Gouf. With a P-Bandai prototype version...
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Jun 3, 2016 11:24
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If I want to use Tamiya Panel Line Accent, can I use that on top of a clear coat? Will that help protect the plastic from embrittlement from the solvent? If so, what kind of clear coats can I safely use on my gun-dang models?
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Jun 3, 2016 21:24
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Slanderer posted:If I want to use Tamiya Panel Line Accent, can I use that on top of a clear coat? Will that help protect the plastic from embrittlement from the solvent? as long as it's not an enamel based clear coat you're fine. Pretty much any type of clear coat is fine, though I like gunze sangyo personally.
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Jun 3, 2016 23:14
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Monaghan posted:as long as it's not an enamel based clear coat you're fine. I'll have to hit up a physical hobby store tomorrow and take a look. Also, I just got a GM300 solvent erasing pen, and looks like I've already hosed up! I had assumed the solvent (acetone maybe?) would be sufficiently diluted to be safe, but nope! A tiny bit got onto a part of the lower leg inner frame, and after a minute it just exploded into a dozen tiny pieces. I was planning on dropping $20 on another kit to fix all the tiny things I screwed up on my first attempt, so no huge loss. I guess in the future I'll only apply solvent to armor pieces after removing them from the inner frame, since if they are vulnerable to brief liquid contact, then fume contact would probably be bad as well.
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Jun 4, 2016 01:27
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It sounds like you did the equivalent of dumping a piece in lacquer thinner. You really shouldn't do that, that poo poo's strong. If you want to strip paint, either use Simple Green and an ultrasonic washer or get some Testors EZ Lift off. Or, if this is really old paint, get both.
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Jun 4, 2016 01:31
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It really was only a tiny drop, I swear! The thing can't dispense very much, and I was just cleaning out some marker left in one of the "vent" holes (which looked worse than I thought it would).
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Jun 4, 2016 01:58
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What's the current go-to airbrush compressor?
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Jun 4, 2016 01:59
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Slanderer posted:It really was only a tiny drop, I swear! The thing can't dispense very much, and I was just cleaning out some marker left in one of the "vent" holes (which looked worse than I thought it would). Well I mean even a tiny drop of lacquer thinner will melt through plastic. I have had club members ask me before if they can strip paint by dunking it in thinner and then scrubbing all the paint off. It never works out. muike posted:What's the current go-to airbrush compressor? If you live in America, you can't go wrong with the $100 ones Airbrush Depot sells on Amazon. Maybe wait for a sale if the price is too much.
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Jun 4, 2016 02:05
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BlitzBlast posted:Well I mean even a tiny drop of lacquer thinner will melt through plastic. I have had club members ask me before if they can strip paint by dunking it in thinner and then scrubbing all the paint off. It never works out. I ran the label on the GM300 "eraser" marker through google translate by taking bad pictures, and although it is giving me a completely different translation each time, I think it specifically says "if you get it on parts made of ABS they may break from penetration of the solvent". Still not 100% sure what loving solvent is even in here, but it is way stronger than I expected. It works great on the (polypropylene) armor panels, though.
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Jun 4, 2016 02:26
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On the topic of topcoating, if I were to use a matte finish, would that go on before or after sticker decals? I wonder if the film on the decals would be covered up by the matte, or if it would stick out more if I placed them on top of the finish.
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Jun 4, 2016 02:47
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Arcsquad12 posted:On the topic of topcoating, if I were to use a matte finish, would that go on before or after sticker decals? I wonder if the film on the decals would be covered up by the matte, or if it would stick out more if I placed them on top of the finish. After. Decals need a smooth surface to adhere. The matte will help mask the film as a bonus. Edit : you said stickers but I thought waterslides, sorry.
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Jun 4, 2016 02:54
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Midjack posted:After. Decals need a smooth surface to adhere. The matte will help mask the film as a bonus. Okay cool. The gouf pic I put up above was halfway done the decals and is now complete. So it would be good now for a spray down
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Jun 4, 2016 03:05
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If you haven't done it yet, try dipping the stickers in water before putting them on. It can help hide the film.
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Jun 4, 2016 03:11
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Anyone have any advice on weathering High and Real grade kits? Can I get a satisfying visual presentation without doing any extra painting? Will weathering even stay on bare plastic? What if I varnish afterwards? Anyone with any experience would be helpful, google is surprisingly sparse.
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Jun 4, 2016 04:01
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rjderouin posted:Anyone have any advice on weathering High and Real grade kits? Can I get a satisfying visual presentation without doing any extra painting? Will weathering even stay on bare plastic? What if I varnish afterwards? Anyone with any experience would be helpful, google is surprisingly sparse. the easiest thing I've been doing is using oil paints. I get Paynes grey, and burnt umber. Mix them together put them on a brush and paint all over the area you are weathering. After you put the paint on get a paper towel and wipe it all off. It stains the plastic and dulls everything and leaves it with a really cool gritty look. It also panel lines everything when you do it that way too.
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Jun 4, 2016 05:11
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Slanderer posted:I ran the label on the GM300 "eraser" marker through google translate by taking bad pictures, and although it is giving me a completely different translation each time, I think it specifically says "if you get it on parts made of ABS they may break from penetration of the solvent". Still not 100% sure what loving solvent is even in here, but it is way stronger than I expected. It works great on the (polypropylene) armor panels, though. Are you trying to remove Gundam Marker paint? Get a bottle of 90% or better isopropyl alcohol. It takes a bit of elbow grease but it'll get the paint off safely.
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Jun 4, 2016 14:25
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| # ? May 28, 2024 12:07 |
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Somebody 3D-printed a 1/12th scale Mobile Worker
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Jun 4, 2016 18:56
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