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I know, and i don't like it on any of those. (there are plenty that don't)
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Jul 6, 2016 22:23
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A Yolo Wizard posted:I know, and i don't like it on any of those. (there are plenty that don't) Sounds like a good reason to me. 
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Jul 6, 2016 22:28
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Is it really normal for x-frames, though? None of the following make the FC stack part of the structure connecting top and bottom plates: Shendrones (Krieger, Mitsuko, Mako), ImpulseRC (Alien), Black Bolt (XBR), Flynoceros (Orion), Dquad (RefleX), MRM (Scythe, Switchblade), ReadymadeRC (Goby), and the list goes on.
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Jul 7, 2016 00:04
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I'm looking at perhaps getting a cheap camera drone to take some aerial photos while hiking in the mountains. Operative keyword is cheap. Would the S3 Quadcopter be good enough?
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Jul 7, 2016 00:08
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Based on the lack of listed specifications, I'd guess the camera is 3 megapixels tops. Your phone likely has an 8 megapixel camera or better. So if you imagine taking a picture with your phone and cropping it in half, you'll have a good representation of the quality you can expect on that guy. I'm sure it would be fun to fly though!
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Jul 7, 2016 00:40
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Cat Mattress posted:I'm looking at perhaps getting a cheap camera drone to take some aerial photos while hiking in the mountains. Operative keyword is cheap. Would the S3 Quadcopter be good enough? We're not in the realm of sub $100 ap drones yet, sorry. Phantom 3 standard would be closest to what you're looking for
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Jul 7, 2016 01:07
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Hmm, Phantom 3 is about three times the budget I could afford to spend on that. Oh well, thanks for the info.
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Jul 7, 2016 07:46
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A Yolo Wizard posted:the flight controller as part of the structure is bad and I don't like it It has long bolts coming up from the bottom all the way to about half way through the upper standoffs, shouldn't be a problem I don't think. I was initially concerned that it might be a weak point so I put in longer bolts.
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Jul 7, 2016 09:05
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sigseven posted:You might also have the min_throttle set too high as well, the default almost always is. Remove the props, and connect to cleanflight while powered on. Use the motors tab to manually control them using the sliders, and find what the lowest value is that still gets them all to consistently spin up. Set the min_throttle to just above that number. So I tweaked the min throttle and that helps a little, however it now flat spins when I hit the throttle. My dinky little Cheerson doesn't do this, so is this a props/motor issue still? Here's a video (excuse the bed shot, only place I can safely land without damage at the moment!) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyFzYMduF68
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Jul 7, 2016 10:47
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Jamsta posted:So I tweaked the min throttle and that helps a little, however it now flat spins when I hit the throttle. Connect to betaflight (or whatever software you are using) and look at the RC inputs tab. Make sure the rudder is centered at about 1500 microseconds. You'll need power to the receiver for this, which means battery plugged in (and props off)
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Jul 7, 2016 11:29
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When is a naze preferable over some knockoff cc3d with cleanflight or whatever other fw you want to dump on there? The prices seem to reinforce the naze as a higher end board, but what does that actually translate into that I won't be able to do with my cc3d? I'm building a new ZMR and I'm not actually looking to upgrade since I have a bunch of CC3Ds to spare, I just don't really understand what the price jump buys me. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 14:13 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 14:08
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The Naze is pretty terrible. Also stop buying F1 based boards.
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Jul 7, 2016 14:13
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Combat Pretzel posted:Also stop buying F1 based boards. I have no idea what this means Combat Pretzel posted:The Naze is pretty terrible. Other than the designer being a douchebag from what I hear, everyone online seems to recommend it for racing for some reason.
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Jul 7, 2016 15:30
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Oh stm32f1. Nevermind. Yeah I'm not buying boards these days, but I have like 5 knockoff CC3Ds because they were super cheap and I wanted to play around with firmware so I bought them way back. Have no reason to actually upgrade and buy anything new. What is the go-to board these days? I feel like all the new boards passed me by since I'm not really familiar with any of them.
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Jul 7, 2016 15:33
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So I've been having a fuckton of issues with the T2D gimbal after it somehow tripped angle overrun protection, and for the life of me the gimbal controller won't talk to the software on a Win 10, 8.1, or 7 PC. The motor controller is fine. I'm kinda done with troubleshooting and thus I'm putting up for sale the FC40 I just got. It's in SA-Mart for the interested: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3782398 It contains a link to the Dronevibes thread where I've posted troubleshooting steps and results. It may require a new board, it may not, but I figure this thread might be interested.
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Jul 7, 2016 16:04
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Martytoof posted:
The RMRC Dodo is the bees knees at the moment. Stick betaflight 2.9.0 on it and don't worry about PIDs
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Jul 7, 2016 16:13
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Martytoof posted:Other than the designer being a douchebag from what I hear, everyone online seems to recommend it for racing for some reason. My own particular gripes are the fast loop times and Multishot. The loop times because apparently people are trying to cheat physics and inertia by just sampling more, therefore ostensibly reducing latency (yeah, because a human can tell the difference between 1ms and 0.125ms in a naturally dampened vehicle), dismissing that with the ever dropping SNR from sampling faster, you need to introduce heavier LP filters, which introduce large delays and destroy said supposed latency "advantage". Not to mention that the update rate from the RC receiver is in the low double digit millisecond range to begin with. And then there's Multishot, because apparently we need to update the ESCs at an insane rate for no good reason, especially given that motor response times due to inertial effects are pretty drat high. I think the biggest joke is that some people run Multishot at 32KHz, even tho the loop times are slower, essentially sending redundant packages to the ESCs. People claimed to "feel" "noticeable" differences between 16KHz and 32KHz MS, despite an 8KHz loop on the flight controller. And the saddest thing is, they claim these high rates for better control accuracy, when the uselessly high command rates disturb the motor commutation that's done in software (and also PWM signal generation in those ESCs without hardware PWM), since the input PWM signal tracking is done using edge trigger interrupts. So yeah, grain of salt advised. As far as the Naze goes, I only fiddled a little with it due to a friend sporting one. In my opinion, it suffers from a bunch of questionable design decisions. What annoys me most is that it renders one of its UARTs useless by attaching an FTDI to one of its UARTs instead of using the native USB connectivity the F1 supplies. Sure, you can disable the FTDI, but then you have to reset your flight controller to hook it up again to *flight. I suppose an SPracingF3 or a Sparky would be cheap alternatives. I think a goon makes the DTFc, which is a combination of flight controller and power board, which seems to perform nicely.
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Jul 7, 2016 16:36
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ImplicitAssembler posted:The RMRC Dodo is the bees knees at the moment. Stick betaflight 2.9.0 on it and don't worry about PIDs It's good, but unless you need the barometer, there are cheaper options. Lot of people like the cyclone, and the newest revision of the xracer f303 has all the boxes ticked on features most people want (spin connection to gyro, 16mbit for black box, vbat, through hole) and is $29 Flight controllers I've bought in 2016: Brainfpv re1 (preorder) Dtfc Sparky ($23 on bg, no vbat so you'd have to provide voltage / amperage input yourself) There's a sparky 2 without the extra bits for cheap, but it's sold by rtfq so buyer beware Edit: also thinkin about upgrading my tricopter with the integrated rcexplorer f3 board moron izzard fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 17:23
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A Yolo Wizard posted:It's good, but unless you need the barometer, there are cheaper options. Lot of people like the cyclone, and the newest revision of the xracer f303 has all the boxes ticked on features most people want (spin connection to gyro, 16mbit for black box, vbat, through hole) and is $29 Sure, there's cheaper options, but the Dodo just works.
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Jul 7, 2016 17:31
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Sure, there's cheaper options, but the Dodo just works. Most f3 boards are indistinguishable in performance, assuming a dampened environment. Features like accepting battery voltage and no dumb connectors and blheli pass through are great, but that's not really unique to the dodo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9h7IKi51a4Y
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Jul 7, 2016 17:36
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Cat Mattress posted:I'm looking at perhaps getting a cheap camera drone to take some aerial photos while hiking in the mountains. Operative keyword is cheap. Would the S3 Quadcopter be good enough? A Syma X8G is the cheapest option I'd go for something super basic that takes decent video. https://www.amazon.com/X8G-Headless...ywords=syma+x8g The next step up would be a Syma X8HG. The altitude hold will make it much easier to fly and get better photos and video. A Yolo Wizard posted:lol at the ama continuing to pretend special rule 336 exemptions apply only to them. This is amazing. The Shep fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 21:02
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The Shep posted:A Syma X8G is the cheapest option I'd go for something super basic that takes decent video. Thanks, seems a solid option. Amazon won't ship to me but I found another seller with a reasonable price, and the X8HG is only 9€ more. 
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Jul 7, 2016 23:11
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Combat Pretzel posted:As far as the Naze goes, I only fiddled a little with it due to a friend sporting one. In my opinion, it suffers from a bunch of questionable design decisions. What annoys me most is that it renders one of its UARTs useless by attaching an FTDI to one of its UARTs instead of using the native USB connectivity the F1 supplies. Sure, you can disable the FTDI, but then you have to reset your flight controller to hook it up again to *flight. That's mostly due to the board's original pedigree as a remapped layout of another board ("FreeFlight") that originally used the same components. The CP2102 serial chip on there is simply due to the original board having one. Timecop was working on a STM32F3 board for a while but scrapped it due to *reasons* (probably boredom) http://www.multiwii.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=5338 And yes the creator of DTFc (also DTF UHF) is a goon but he's probably avoiding this thread CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 23:25
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Cat Mattress posted:Thanks, seems a solid option. Amazon won't ship to me but I found another seller with a reasonable price, and the X8HG is only 9€ more. I misspoke. You won't need a runcam with the x8hg. That camera is a decent go pro knockoff and you can check out reviews on YouTube of the x8g by searching for it. Without the gimbal your video will be jittery but it's the best we can do in your price range. I don't think you'll be disappointed.
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Jul 7, 2016 23:30
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waiting for the re1, it's gonna be the best
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Jul 8, 2016 09:27
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If dipoles are that much better in regards of signal strength, disregarding multipathing, why don't I just put one on the quad, and get a triple diversity receiver and stick three dipoles at 90° to each other on it to deal with polarisation? Friend of mine killed his CP antenna yesterday in a crash and helped himself with a dipole the rest of the day, and claimed he had way better picture and less interferences.
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Jul 8, 2016 17:13
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Combat Pretzel posted:
Dipoles are worse at rejecting multipaths. What CP antenna was he using?
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Jul 8, 2016 18:12
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Some three leaf noname cloverleaf. Also... quote:disregarding multipathing
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Jul 8, 2016 18:20
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Combat Pretzel posted:Some three leaf noname cloverleaf. Right..read that as discarding multipaths, not disregarding  . Cheap cloverleafs are usually crap. (but cheap).
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Jul 8, 2016 19:09
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I have a double diversity receiver incoming from Banggood (an FR632, whenever that is), I'll be trying dipoles in the open when I get it. I suppose if I'm tracking 160-180° in front of me, two receivers with angled dipoles should be able to deal polarization mismatching. Whenever I do my first race in the parking garage, I suppose CP antenna is mandatory.
Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Jul 9, 2016 |
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Jul 9, 2016 12:37
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Combat Pretzel posted:I have a double diversity receiver incoming from Banggood (an FR632, whenever that is), I'll be trying dipoles in the open when I get it. I suppose if I'm tracking 160-180° in front of me, two receivers with angled dipoles should be able to deal polarization mismatching. Whenever I do my first race in the parking garage, I suppose CP antenna is mandatory. Double diversity as in 2x 632 and 4 antennas? Link?
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Jul 9, 2016 20:09
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So I'm putting this PDB together. Is there any reason I should go with a switching regulator over just a bog standard regulator?
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Jul 9, 2016 21:33
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bring back old gbs posted:Double diversity as in 2x 632 and 4 antennas? Link? There's some thingy to tie together two FR632 and have it switch based on image quality, whatever that means. Can't remember what it's called, tho. --edit: I think it's this thing: http://www.eagletreesystems.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_79&product_id=84 Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Jul 9, 2016 |
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Jul 9, 2016 22:12
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Combat Pretzel posted:I have a double diversity receiver incoming from Banggood (an FR632, whenever that is), I'll be trying dipoles in the open when I get it. I suppose if I'm tracking 160-180° in front of me, two receivers with angled dipoles should be able to deal polarization mismatching. Whenever I do my first race in the parking garage, I suppose CP antenna is mandatory. I hope you get a good fr632, they had a batch that got horrible interference from 2.4 ghz signals. I returned 3 before I gave up and bought the diversity receiver that quanum makes (which is awesome by the way)
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Jul 10, 2016 02:52
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Read about that. Unless I get something from older stock, I should be fine. Hopefully. Actually, ideally, because another friend of mine seems to have more free time now and wants to come along us to fly. With his Phantom 3 and it's horrible 2.4GHz video downlink. That thing shits all over the RF bands.
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Jul 10, 2016 13:00
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Has anyone else done an 1104 build? I have mine tuned in Betaflight 2.8 and the rates are just so slow. I have P1 R1 Y2 rates in the PIDs screen, and an RC rate of 1. I've got NO expo selected and it still only responds like my 210 does with .70 expo. That's fine for normal flight, but flips and barrel rolls are basically out of the question unless I gain altitude. Am I missing something?
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Jul 11, 2016 00:04
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McMadCow posted:Has anyone else done an 1104 build? On my 106mm build I set my PID rates to 1.65(lol) and RC rates to ~.95 with an RC expo of .75 and it flips alright now. This is on Betaflight 2.8.1 I think they changed the way expo and rates work on there recently, it has an interactive little 3d model you can watch flip around as you change numbers and move your sticks.
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Jul 11, 2016 03:27
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bring back old gbs posted:On my 106mm build I set my PID rates to 1.65(lol) and RC rates to ~.95 with an RC expo of .75 and it flips alright now. That's really weird, I can get my P and R rates to go above 1 on my PID tab. Yaw goes to 2.55. Is there something else that needs to be switched so that those rates can go beyond 1?
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Jul 11, 2016 10:30
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McMadCow posted:That's really weird, I can get my P and R rates to go above 1 on my PID tab. Yaw goes to 2.55. Is there something else that needs to be switched so that those rates can go beyond 1? Are you on BF2.8.1? Using the BetaFlight Configurator? Holy craaaaaaaap this is the best use of RC I've ever seen. Man builds motorized Duck, takes it to pond: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZX7Rc8lctUY Step 2....some next level poo poo  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6S1ad6b2wmA bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jul 11, 2016 |
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Jul 11, 2016 16:38
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Is there a reason a lot of people keep calling the rubberduckies dipoles? I've torn one down out of curiosity, and it's a monopole.
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Jul 12, 2016 11:08
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