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TooMuchAbstraction posted:it's a lot easier to drill to a specific depth than it is to chisel to one. To expand on this, you can use a bit of tape wrapped around the drill bit to provide a depth marker so you drill to a consistent depth.
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Sep 13, 2016 02:11
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I love the idea of using two parts to the build: a solid bottom and a top part with holes all the way through. I would do that but I don't want screws sticking out of my construction. I also feel it'd be more likely to fall apart after a while if it was two pieces joined together. The tape marker on the drillbit is awesome, I never even thought of that. I'll keep you guys updated on how it goes.
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Sep 13, 2016 02:17
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Loopoo posted:I love the idea of using two parts to the build: a solid bottom and a top part with holes all the way through. I would do that but I don't want screws sticking out of my construction. I also feel it'd be more likely to fall apart after a while if it was two pieces joined together. Glue the two bits together, dont use screws. Wood glue forms a bond that is stronger than wood fibres. Unless you really abuse it, the two parts wont come apart.
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Sep 13, 2016 02:19
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You might find it easier to build your object out of two layers, one of which has holes and the other of which is solid and provides the bottom to the holes. That'd save you from having to chisel to a specific depth. I mean, it's absolutely possible to target a specific depth and remove material only to that depth, but it's tricky to get a nice result especially if you're inexperienced. You can still have the circular holes be shallower (and thus not "make use" of the separate bottom); it's a lot easier to drill to a specific depth than it is to chisel to one. I'd hit that with a plunge router without thinking, it's begging for one
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Sep 13, 2016 02:19
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Mr. Mambold posted:I'd hit that with a plunge router without thinking, it's begging for one Buying a plunge router for your first-ever woodworking project might be a little overkill. And yeah, use wood glue, or even just some two-part epoxy, to join the two pieces together.
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Sep 13, 2016 02:22
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I'm only a student so I'm trying to keep budget to a minimum. The cost of the wood, the drill bits, the lacquer or oil are already going to be quite expensive. Getting tools just for this one job isn't something I'm willing to do. I've borrowed a drill from a friend, but other than that, I want to keep it as cheap as possible. I have no idea how expensive wood glue is, and I doubt I'd use barely any of it. Seems like it'd be wasteful for me to buy it for a project that might just be a one off. After this project, I'll see whether I like woodworking or not.
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Sep 13, 2016 02:24
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Loopoo posted:I'm only a student so I'm trying to keep budget to a minimum. The cost of the wood, the drill bits, the lacquer or oil are already going to be quite expensive. Getting tools just for this one job isn't something I'm willing to do. I've borrowed a drill from a friend, but other than that, I want to keep it as cheap as possible. I have no idea how expensive wood glue is, and I doubt I'd use barely any of it. Seems like it'd be wasteful for me to buy it for a project that might just be a one off. After this project, I'll see whether I like woodworking or not. Glue is a couple of bucks. You could probably get it cheaper, that was just the first one i saw.
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Sep 13, 2016 02:34
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You can even use white craft glue for wood projects, really. As long as it's liquid in its uncured state you'll be fine.
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Sep 13, 2016 02:38
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Loopoo posted:Hardest parts of the build will be making those three semi-rectangular holes. We made something similar back in boy scouts using a template in 1/8" plywood which is easy to shape. Once your template is perfect, use a router and box core bit to router out the holes. It doesn't have to be a plunge router. If you have a drill press and forstner bits, you can hog out some waste before going at with a router. https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-45950-2-Flute-Carbide/dp/B000637V4O In other news ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kY3juGRix00
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Sep 13, 2016 05:59
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Thanks so much for the advice, but I can't drop $33 on a drill bit. I'm a poor university student. I'm trying to keep this as frugal as possible. There's no product that fulfills what I want on the market, so I figured I'd make my own as cheaply as possible. I'm not even buying a drill, as they're too expensive. Borrowing a drill from a friend, whilst having only bought a flat wood drill bit and some sand paper. Next expense will be the wood itself and then hopefully that's me done.
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Sep 13, 2016 06:12
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................fi
wormil fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Sep 15, 2016 |
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Sep 13, 2016 06:55
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Hey Loopoo fellow UK vaping goon. Go the flea market, check the pound shops, wilcos and boyes and as a last resort try amazon. Forstner/spade/hole saw bit is what you are after See if there is a recycled wood enterprise co-op thing near you before buying wood.  http://www.communitywoodrecycling.org.uk/stores/
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Sep 13, 2016 07:08
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Forgive me if I missed it, but what is a "flat wood bit"? Can you take a photo of the bit? I'm thinking either a spade bit (physically flat) or a forstner (makes flat-bottomed holes) based on your term for it. I don't know how hosed prices might be in the UK, but around here, you could get the smallest quantity of wood glue, a half inch wood chisel of low chinesium quality if you're allowed to buy sharp things, and a finish like, say, linseed oil, for single digit numbers of dollars each. You could likely find a hunk of suitable wood for a couple dollars in a cutoff bin, as well. A small jug of Elmer's school glue would be like a dollar and be good enough for this - you can glue and "clamp" with heavy textbooks and have a rock solid bond without any screws. If you do the two layer option you can make your holes with pretty much any bit, but if not, you will be fighting uphill to make them cleanly with anything but a forstner bit. And you can do a lot of sanding by hand if you have the time. What you want to do is totally possible on a minimal budget, but not for free. For actual content: While I wait for a couple different parts to ship for my next rifle build, I'm getting started on an appropriately fancy piece of forestock wood for it. First up, two 12x1.5" strips of 3/4" birch (cut from leftover chunks from this commissioned piece so free to me) to give me 1.5" squared of material. Final dimensions will be closer to 1.25" square so I have plenty of meat to work with.  Glued and clamped overnight, and we move on. Exotic hardwood stock tips are a done thing, and I felt like trying that; while a suitable chunk of ebony was not readily available locally, I found a rough cube of cocobolo that would serve nicely.  After thoroughly flattening one end-grain face, I apply my high-tech jig to make sure the dowel holes on both pieces match.  Cocobolo smells really loving good when you work it, if you didn't know.  Holes drilled for 3/8" birch dowels, and the surfaces to be glued are cleaned - cocobolo is so naturally oily that it's effectively impervious to wood glue, so you have to wipe the end down thoroughly with a solvent to give the glue some pores to seep into or it won't stick. I've also rotated the cocobolo 45 degrees relative to the birch so the grain is roughly aligned for appearance's sake.  More clamp time while I go for lunch:  After it's good and dry I saw off the protruding corners so it's all roughly 1.5" squared  Saw, rout, and sand to get it into a rough shape to start with + an undersized barrel channel; power tools may or may not be cheating but literally gently caress trying to get anywhere on cocobolo with a rasp.  Not visible in the photo but I also tapered it a whole 1 degree from front to back on the bottom. I will be doing several more passes until it's much closer to the final profile and size I'm aiming for.  Decided to omit the plastic spacer and make a wood one. Then I realized that I could just drill the rear of the stock itself rather than introducing a third species of wood to this thing. But wait, what size is it? Google says 1 1/8", which I don't have a bit in. I was discussing this idea with my gunsmith and he didn't know either - he has a 1.125 metal bit but it would be tricky to drill half a hole in wood with it. Roughly ten minutes later I'm in the back working on the barrel for this project and an old dude comes in. I hear him ask the owner if he has anybody who comes in that does woodwork, because he's trying to unload some tools he isn't using..  Yyyyyyoink.   I used a 1" sanding drum to hog out the barrel channel. Final shaping will involve some 100 grit taped around the barrel itself to make things nice and uniform but it's almost there. The outside will be some quality time on an inflatable drum sander because, again, gently caress using a rasp on this stuff. Alternatively, I may leave it like it is, cause the rounded square profile isn't entirely unappealing:  Can't finish it until the rest of the stuff is here, so just to tie the post together, here's something I made using the two-layers-to-have-specific-depth-hole theory:  1/4-20 t-nut between the ply and the cedar so it threads onto a tripod like so:  Ft. the last forestock I made.   
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Sep 13, 2016 07:09
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Our prices on wood are hosed, for furniture it's cheaper to find something cheap and broken on ebay that looks like it has a lot of good flat bits and strip it down. We do have weekly flea markets with all these lovely old saws and whatnot for a pound each though. (I'll take a picture on Thursday)
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Sep 13, 2016 07:37
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learnincurve posted:Our prices on wood are hosed, for furniture it's cheaper to find something cheap and broken on ebay that looks like it has a lot of good flat bits and strip it down. We do have weekly flea markets with all these lovely old saws and whatnot for a pound each though. (I'll take a picture on Thursday) Paul Sellers recently had a video featuring a place that sells all reclaimed wood. Maybe that would have some reasonable prices in the UK?
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Sep 13, 2016 16:29
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My mother who does whittling and carving uses the one near her and loves it, only problem is that the bigger bits go quick. I was told today that the problem we have in the UK with furniture wood isn't because of the rise of flat pack furniture but down to the death of the boat building industry.
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Sep 13, 2016 17:15
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It's cool, I managed to find a store that can give me what I want. They seem really friendly too, so I have a feeling they'll give me tonnes of advice. Really excited for tomorrow!
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Sep 13, 2016 17:44
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Loopoo posted:Thanks so much for the advice, but I can't drop $33 on a drill bit. I'm a poor university student. I'm trying to keep this as frugal as possible. Have you considered asking your friends if any of them do woodworking? Maybe make a facebook post asking for help. Does your university have a wood shop?
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Sep 13, 2016 20:01
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Atticus_1354 posted:Have you considered asking your friends if any of them do woodworking? Maybe make a facebook post asking for help. Does your university have a wood shop? They're not really my friends. They're my older sister's friends and I don't wanna be too much of a pain in the rear end. They're already lending me a drill so I'll make do. I'm going tomorrow to a wood workshop place and they seemed really friendly over the phone. I'm hoping they'll help me out, either by doing it for me (either for free or a fee) or allowing me to do it myself? I've no idea if I'd be able to but I'm going to try asking anyway.
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Sep 13, 2016 20:44
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I have an extremely important question, the answer to which will undoubtedly make or break my new shop. Context: I have a 26x32 barn that I'm building up as a shop. Getting a slab put in this week, then I'll do electric and a door on the bay and lights and all that. Gonna put down that nice epoxy stuff on the floor to seal it all up. My question is: what color?!   
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Sep 13, 2016 22:02
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I would lean towards something pretty neutral. I did a dark blue epoxy on my garage floor when I moved into my house a few years ago, and now I kind of hate it.
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Sep 13, 2016 22:45
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I agree on the neutral floor advice. I'd probably go gunmetal out of those options.
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Sep 13, 2016 23:11
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Well you don't want anything sawdust coloured or that will clash with it, nor do you want something too dark. Try swatches of the steel blue, adobe brick and the mint gloss. Don't be like me and end up with one wall in your kitchen a slightly blue manky dark grey instead of the duck egg blue promised on the tin. e: I have a dark grey floor, every bit of dirt, paint and stain shows up on it really badly. learnincurve fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Sep 13, 2016 |
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Sep 13, 2016 23:12
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Moccasin, it'll blend with the saw dust.
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Sep 13, 2016 23:27
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Bad Munki posted:I have an extremely important question, the answer to which will undoubtedly make or break my new shop. Context: I have a 26x32 barn that I'm building up as a shop. Getting a slab put in this week, then I'll do electric and a door on the bay and lights and all that. Gonna put down that nice epoxy stuff on the floor to seal it all up. My question is: what color?! Cancel the dang slab, put in a joist & decking floor; your back and knees will thank you for it.
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Sep 14, 2016 00:12
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Mr. Mambold posted:Cancel the dang slab, put in a joist & decking floor; your back and knees will thank you for it. There is this very legitimate feedback as well. Floating a locking engineered floor on a slab can be a legit option as well (has worked for me, it's still a lot more forgiving than bare concrete).
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Sep 14, 2016 00:27
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Endgrain over the slab if you've got the height (and it's a barn, so you probably do!). Great on your knees, lasts forever with minimal maintenance, easy on dropped tools.
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Sep 14, 2016 00:37
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I finished those curtain hangers I was working on.  Oak (and "hardwood" for the dowels, no further specification provided), finished with Minwax tung oil.  For bonus points, I also made the curtains.
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Sep 14, 2016 04:11
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I realize that this is the woodworking thread, but have you considered just 3D printing your weird box thing?
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Sep 14, 2016 04:31
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gromdul posted:I realize that this is the woodworking thread, but have you considered just 3D printing your weird box thing? If he was on my continent I'd happily just make the thing in 20 minutes if he paid for the flat rate shipping box. I mean, I would still, but dude is balking at less than shipping to the UK is for even a small box, so.
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Sep 14, 2016 04:39
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I finished those curtain hangers I was working on. If you shift both of the brackets on the corner inwards a little, you might be able to make one dowel receiver that slots into both at once (maybe mitre them in the middle?) and have the curtains get a little closer in the middle. Not sure how you'd shape it to match the outer supports tho. I want some sturdier drapes for my living room before next winter, and I'm gonna look at doing something similar to what you've done there.
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Sep 14, 2016 05:06
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mirthdefect posted:If you shift both of the brackets on the corner inwards a little, you might be able to make one dowel receiver that slots into both at once (maybe mitre them in the middle?) and have the curtains get a little closer in the middle. Not sure how you'd shape it to match the outer supports tho. The spacing here is tricky; those two corner brackets are actually physically touching. I even routed a 45° profile into them, but that only buys a little less than an inch. I had trouble coming up with a design I liked that used a single corner support. Conceptually, I agree, it'd be preferable. Fortunately these are mostly privacy curtains, so they don't need to provide a perfect blackout.
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Sep 14, 2016 15:14
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Hey, I'm hoping to find the least expensive way to get a long threaded rod. I want it to be thick enough to support a bookshelf. My idea is that I cut 5 boards. I pass 4 rods through, one per corner. I want this to be ~3/4 or thicker (open for suggestions/advice) and would like 10-12 inch. between shelves. Each shelf is about 1 1/4 inch thick. What's the go-to place for cheap threaded rods + hardware? Mcmaster's seems pricy. How well would 3/4" threaded rods hold up to racking forces?
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Sep 14, 2016 16:13
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Hey, I'm hoping to find the least expensive way to get a long threaded rod. I want it to be thick enough to support a bookshelf. Pipe would probably be cheaper wouldn't it? unless you are in love with the look of threaded rod for some reason
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Sep 14, 2016 16:18
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You can get 10'-long threaded rod (a.k.a. allthread) at contractor stores (e.g. Home Depot Pro) for IIRC around $10 apiece. I don't think they have 3/4" thick though. What on earth are you putting on these shelves that you need 3/4" of steel to support them? Regardless, your design won't do poo poo for racking forces because the forces are applied perpendicular to the rods. You need to have some crossbraces if you want the thing to not rack.
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Sep 14, 2016 16:20
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You can get 10'-long threaded rod (a.k.a. allthread) at contractor stores (e.g. Home Depot Pro) for IIRC around $10 apiece. I don't think they have 3/4" thick though. What on earth are you putting on these shelves that you need 3/4" of steel to support them? Well, I want it to support the weight of reference books and assorted nonsense. I want it to be a thick rod because the shelves are 52" x 7" x 1 1/4" I don't want it to just bend under the weight and slowly fall sideways. Squibbles posted:Pipe would probably be cheaper wouldn't it? unless you are in love with the look of threaded rod for some reason
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Sep 14, 2016 16:24
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Well, I want it to support the weight of reference books and assorted nonsense. Cannon_Fodder posted:My idea is that I cut 5 boards. I pass 4 rods through, one per corner. Cannon_Fodder posted:support the weight of reference books Godspeed
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Sep 14, 2016 16:27
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Local woodworking shop was really really nice. I showed them the drawing I made of the item I wanted, and they agreed to cut the shape out for me as well as use the router in the shop to cut those awkward rectangular holes. I told them my initial plan was to carve them out by hand, but they recommended against using softwood as it has a tendency to splinter, so I went with a hardwood instead. It was ridiculously kind of the carpenter to offer to use the router and do the holes for me in his break time. Gonna take a shitload of biscuits when I go to pick up the wood piece. The guy working at the till told me they did me a huge favour, as normally the labour would cost upwards of 20 quid.
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Sep 14, 2016 17:03
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I'm about to start working on a bookshelf. The plans call for shiplapped 1/4" back panels made by resawing 4/4 lumber. I can resaw with my bandsaw, but I can't get a super reliable thickness out of doing so, so I'd need to thickness-plane down the boards after resawing. But my thickness planer says to not go thinner than 1/2". Can I just put a melamine board into the planer to act as a raised bed? I dimly recall seeing someone use a very slightly curved passthrough bed with their planer to eliminate snipe, but would that also allow you to plane down to thinner widths? I don't have a thickness sander or any other tool I can think of that could generate a consistent 1/4"-thick board.
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Sep 14, 2016 17:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm about to start working on a bookshelf. The plans call for shiplapped 1/4" back panels made by resawing 4/4 lumber. I can resaw with my bandsaw, but I can't get a super reliable thickness out of doing so, so I'd need to thickness-plane down the boards after resawing. But my thickness planer says to not go thinner than 1/2". Can I just put a melamine board into the planer to act as a raised bed? I dimly recall seeing someone use a very slightly curved passthrough bed with their planer to eliminate snipe, but would that also allow you to plane down to thinner widths? You can go thinner than 1/2", I think that's just some sort of disclaimer in case the board blows up. Like if it's got a big knot in it, I'd not use it. Or yea, you could screw or clamp a piece of plywood or melamine on the bed. You have a resaw blade? Actually rough-sawn looking backing might be really cool if you can tune up your bandsaw a bit more. Or it might not.
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Sep 14, 2016 17:28
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