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FYI if anyone gets curious about turning plastics on their lathe HDPE turns like butter. No joke or exaggeration, it's amazing.
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Oct 9, 2016 01:59
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Broke down and bought a belt sander because gently caress this sharpening nonsense.
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Oct 9, 2016 04:23
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From way back, I'm starting to really understand this post.wormil posted:Here's what it looks like when I do woodturning.
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Oct 9, 2016 04:52
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Parts Kit posted:From way back, I'm starting to really understand this post. Did I post that? Must have been drunk because I don't remember it. True for sure.
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Oct 9, 2016 05:00
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That reminds me -- is sawdust / wood chips okay to put in the yard waste container? Assuming it's not contaminated or treated or plywood or anything, of course. Even if I had a working wood stove, I'd be a little leery of creating a fuel-air explosion, but it seems kind of silly to bulk out my landfill trash with a few bags of little bits of tree.
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Oct 9, 2016 05:04
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wormil posted:Did I post that? Must have been drunk because I don't remember it. True for sure.
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Oct 9, 2016 05:33
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That reminds me -- is sawdust / wood chips okay to put in the yard waste container? Assuming it's not contaminated or treated or plywood or anything, of course. Even if I had a working wood stove, I'd be a little leery of creating a fuel-air explosion, but it seems kind of silly to bulk out my landfill trash with a few bags of little bits of tree. Turn it into fuel pellets. There are special stoves that use them.
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Oct 9, 2016 07:59
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That reminds me -- is sawdust / wood chips okay to put in the yard waste container? Assuming it's not contaminated or treated or plywood or anything, of course. Even if I had a working wood stove, I'd be a little leery of creating a fuel-air explosion, but it seems kind of silly to bulk out my landfill trash with a few bags of little bits of tree. I always burn it. Either I throw it in the fire pit and set the top on fire with a little mineral spirits (unless it's all planer/jointer shavings which light up just fine) or I sit around and giggle while throwing handfuls at the already lit fire. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chfbRFJbuGQ
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Oct 9, 2016 12:49
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I'm gonna take a guess that the poster is prohibited from burning.
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Oct 9, 2016 13:02
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Corky Romanovsky posted:I'm gonna take a guess that the poster is prohibited from burning. Not prohibited, exactly, but as I noted I don't have a working wood-burning stove or fireplace right now. The last time I tried to use my stove my carbon monoxide alarm went off. Outdoor fires are prohibited in California except for things like grills, if I recall correctly. Too much risk of the fire spreading and taking out half the state.
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Oct 9, 2016 14:24
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That reminds me -- is sawdust / wood chips okay to put in the yard waste container? Assuming it's not contaminated or treated or plywood or anything, of course. Even if I had a working wood stove, I'd be a little leery of creating a fuel-air explosion, but it seems kind of silly to bulk out my landfill trash with a few bags of little bits of tree. Can you start a compost pile? That's where mine go.
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Oct 9, 2016 15:18
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I just throw it in the trash with the rest myself. It all gets burned for district heating anyway.
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Oct 9, 2016 15:20
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That reminds me -- is sawdust / wood chips okay to put in the yard waste container? Assuming it's not contaminated or treated or plywood or anything, of course. Even if I had a working wood stove, I'd be a little leery of creating a fuel-air explosion, but it seems kind of silly to bulk out my landfill trash with a few bags of little bits of tree. I think it's ok if it's not treated. Some stuff like walnut is naturally toxic, ymmv etc hth lol pbuh.
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Oct 9, 2016 15:21
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It's fine to put sawdust/shavings in the yard waste. That stuff almost certainly gets hauled to a municipal composting station where they grind up all the yard waste and use it to compost sewage sludge from the water treatment plants. I use mine in the compost bin or to cover pathways in the garden.
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Oct 9, 2016 16:37
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Mr. Mambold posted:I think it's ok if it's not treated. Some stuff like walnut is naturally toxic, ymmv etc hth lol pbuh. Also noticed yesterday that the tung oil I left in a ketchup bottle has solidified, haha.
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Oct 9, 2016 16:51
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Finally got the jointer moved into the workshop from the garage  
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Oct 10, 2016 01:15
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Parts Kit posted:On that note, what all woods can rust tools if their shavings/dust are left in contact with tools? Moisture plus oxygen cause rust. So any damp wood can rust tools.
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Oct 10, 2016 03:17
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The concern with oak I saw online was more the higher tannic acid content helping things along. No idea if that's really a thing or not, or if it's mostly a concern with greener wood.
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Oct 10, 2016 03:42
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Never cheap out on tools, ever. I'm so sick of this lovely Irwin combination square. I remember seeing some ongoing ebay listings for scratch-and-dent Starrett squares, does anyone happen to have a link to that? I did some searches and couldn't turn up anything.
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Oct 10, 2016 13:21
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Try ebay for Blem Cosmetic Second PEC. I got a PEC combo square and am happy with it..
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Oct 10, 2016 13:54
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:\ picked up a late Victorian dressing table. Gorgeous oak, lovely walnut veneer on the draws and then lets just slap whatever the hell his is all over it so it looks like mahogany because we are Victorians and this is what we do. 
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Oct 10, 2016 15:03
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His Divine Shadow posted:Try ebay for Blem Cosmetic Second PEC. I got a PEC combo square and am happy with it.. That's what it was! I must have just assumed it was Starrett. Gonna buy the poo poo out of these.
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Oct 10, 2016 15:03
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learnincurve posted::\ picked up a late Victorian dressing table. Gorgeous oak, lovely walnut veneer on the draws and then lets just slap whatever the hell his is all over it so it looks like mahogany because we are Victorians and this is what we do. This post doesn't make sense. Why don't you post pics?
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Oct 10, 2016 15:52
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It came in bits ready for stripping so can't do the before picture properly, Victorians loved to paint then shellac which is a pain in the arse to remove, going to be a alcohol then chemical job, sanded to see what's underneath, in the flesh you can see the oak coming though in patches.  I know it's shellac because that smaller stain is from neat gin.  edit: needed stripping no matter what, it's another restoration job. learnincurve fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Oct 10, 2016 |
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Oct 10, 2016 17:10
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learnincurve posted:It came in bits ready for stripping so can't do the before picture properly, Victorians loved to paint then shellac which is a pain in the arse to remove, going to be a alcohol then chemical job, thats not oak m8
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Oct 10, 2016 19:07
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The draw lining looks to be white oak, the colour you see is still unnatural with only one layer off. More accurate description would be "hardwood, possibly oak" . What do you think it is?
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Oct 10, 2016 19:15
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Something tight grained and not porous. I would guess somewhere along the lines of maple/cherry/birch/mahogany, but finished wood is hard to identify completely. Can you take a picture of the endgrain somewhere? e: I'm assuming from you saying 'draw' that you're in the UK or Australia? Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Oct 10, 2016 |
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Oct 10, 2016 19:35
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That's all I can get to without chemicals, but I think you nailed it - age, location (UK), and the quality of work makes silver birch a very likely candidate.
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Oct 10, 2016 20:13
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Sure as hell looks like a lot of walnut I've seen.
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Oct 10, 2016 20:17
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Out of curiosity, how does one identify wood when there isn't like a tree with leaves to examine? Any books / recommended resources?
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Oct 10, 2016 20:20
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Tres Burritos posted:Out of curiosity, how does one identify wood when there isn't like a tree with leaves to examine? Any books / recommended resources? I GOT THIS ONE WORMIL. Go to a fine woods lumberyard. Around here it used to be Paxton's until they were bought out by Hogans, which then later went oob. If you feel like a kid in a candystore, you're doing something right.
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Oct 10, 2016 20:31
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Folks, what are the correct woods to use for a joiner's mallet? I see a lot of commercial ones that use beech, but I read that fruit woods are the way to go because they are less prone to go all spongy after long use. I reckon I'd like to find some well-seasoned quartersawn apple but that apparently is the hardest thing in the world to find here in Alberta. Edit:  I finished the bench stool! It's mostly level and fairly sturdy after glue-up, and overall I'm pretty happy with it. I just finished it with three coats of boiled linseed oil because that's what I had. It's got kind of a nice honey colour, but it also highlights all of my incredibly sloppy workmanship. All in all, I think it's not very good. However, I did learn a lot from it, and I developed a lot of comfort with my tools. Hopefully my next project will be better! Skippy Granola fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Oct 10, 2016 |
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Oct 10, 2016 20:47
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In amateur hour news, today was an important reminder of why practice is important. I had planned on doing through-mortises for the front face of my table, and normal stopped mortises for the long rails. Then someone here mentioned drawboring, so I decided to do that to strengthen the long rails. And while researching that, I ran across wedged through-mortises and decided to do that for the front faces. Since I've never done either of those before, I did some practice joints with scrap. Drawbored joint turned out great and seems super strong. Also it only took one evening to put together. Made me super happy when this came together.  Wedged through mortise turned out like crap and took two evenings and most of Sunday, as the legs are about three inches thick. I had some bad breakout on the visible face, which totally ruins the effect. Also one of the wedges broke off while I was hammering it in. Also the end grain didn't clean up nearly as well as I hoped it would, probably at least in part due to the breakout. Oh well, I'm glad this was a test joint.  So that idea's in the trash until I get better at this, and I think I'll just drawbore all of the joints. Maybe I'll come up with something else for decoration. Or maybe I'll just call it "rustic".
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Oct 11, 2016 01:34
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Tres Burritos posted:Out of curiosity, how does one identify wood when there isn't like a tree with leaves to examine? Any books / recommended resources? 
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Oct 11, 2016 02:13
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I feel like we were being set up
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Oct 11, 2016 02:16
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I honestly had no idea. Swear to god.
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Oct 11, 2016 04:03
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I had a good laugh when I was reading that guy's other book "Understanding Wood" and came across that picture after seeing that meme. Understanding Wood is really excellent though. I imagine Identifying wood would be very good as well. The basics are like what he's doing in the picture though. End grain is usually the most informative. You take a razor blade or super sharp knife and cut across the end grain to get a fresh sample of the grain then use a magnifier like in the picture. Compare what you see against a resource of end grain pictures. Or maybe there's flow charts somewhere. Understanding Wood gives the basics of ID'ing but doesn't provide a ton of detail on what the actual different woods are. But basically you look at how far spaced apart the rings are and the size/frequency of the holes I think (if the wood is the type that has them). Take a look at the end grain photo of this red oak on this page: http://www.wood-database.com/red-oak/ You can see the little holes, spacing and arrangement tell you it's red oak I guess. I haven't done that sort of examination enough myself to actually be able to do it. Squibbles fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Oct 11, 2016 |
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Oct 11, 2016 04:57
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Tres Burritos posted:Out of curiosity, how does one identify wood when there isn't like a tree with leaves to examine? Any books / recommended resources? Here, there's an old, crazy, "Trump-is-too-far-left-for-ME" dude who owns a wood store between unsuccessful attempts to be elected to whatever office, who will look at it, then (maybe) sand a bit on it, sniff it, and then say what it is and be correct every time. I would bet there's someone similarly damaged near you who can perform this function.
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Oct 11, 2016 05:00
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Parts Kit posted:The concern with oak I saw online was more the higher tannic acid content helping things along. No idea if that's really a thing or not, or if it's mostly a concern with greener wood. I never heard that about oak but I heard something similar about cedar. But I learned that what we call cedar in the U.S. is actually juniper or arborvitae. So it seems sketchy but who knows, maybe you're right.
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Oct 11, 2016 06:04
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mds2 posted:I feel like we were being set up Not by me, I'm an idiot, and not that lucky. These are oddly wonderful and I don't know why. http://www.markdoolittlestudio.com/sculptural-artwork.html
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Oct 11, 2016 06:55
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