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Monolith. posted:As someone who ran thousands of feet of cat5e for an ISP, you'll need a punchdown tool, some RJ45 punchdowns (the holders for your actual wires) for your physical jacks, wall plates, and a crimper if you don't want to use premade cables connecting your stuff to the plates. If you run cat6 make sure you get the cat6 connectors as cat5e connectors will be too small. If your house doesnt have anything over the walls yet, get a big staple gun and run all the wire exactly where you want it. Otherwise, get yourself some fish tape to run it down the wall. You could also use a tool called a Magnepull to find the cable in the wall. I'd run at least two cat cables to your jacks. Could I do the same thing with a nut and some fishing line with a strong neodynium magnet? I know how to terminate CAT6; I have the tools as well, I've just never run them in a real structure and didn't know what other things to worry about. Thanks for all the advice thread! Who says goons are terrible?
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Oct 25, 2016 18:28
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D34THROW posted:Plumbing update: I turned the hot off under the sink and the water came out of the cold pipe still lukewarm, not cold like it usually is in the rest of the house. Turned it off at the heater and the cold still ran.
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Oct 25, 2016 18:48
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Nitrox posted:What happens when you shut off the waterheater and open the hot tab at the sink? Physically unplugging or deactivating it? I did not try that nor would I know how to. But when I shut the hot valve at the heater, the hot stops. I even let it run to clear residual pressure. The cold still comes out lukewarm, even when it runs for a few. MIL doesn't care at this point, but I'm annoyed and it's officially a challenge at this point.
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Oct 25, 2016 18:53
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Wasabi the J posted:Could I do the same thing with a nut and some fishing line with a strong neodynium magnet? You could, but you might want to put some tape over the magnet first so you don't leave drag marks on the paint. I'd also get a handful of nuts in case any get stuck in the wall and also get some fishing line that you can still break with your hands if need be. Insulated walls are a pain in the butt. You might need fish sticks for those. Then there are fire blocks. They're not required everywhere and are pretty rare, but they're 2x4s that span the length of the wall cavity about halfway up the wall. That means need a flexi bit to drill through it. If you suspect you have one, you can verify it by checking vertically with a stud finder. D34THROW posted:Plumbing update: I turned the hot off under the sink and the water came out of the cold pipe still lukewarm, not cold like it usually is in the rest of the house. Turned it off at the heater and the cold still ran. No, shut it off at the water heater and turn on the cold. Does any water come out at pressure? No, that isn't possible. Air is too good an insulator and would suck all the heat from the hot pipe before it could transfer any heat to the cold one. You'd notice that the wall was as hot as your water before that could happen. Even then, that would only affect the water currently in the pipes, which would get flushed out extremely quickly the next time you turn on the faucet. Do the test I asked. Let's completely shut off the hot water so you have a base line to compare how cold the cold line should be to. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Oct 25, 2016 |
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Oct 25, 2016 18:55
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Wasabi the J posted:Could I do the same thing with a nut and some fishing line with a strong neodynium magnet? Yeah, I'd imagine you could. Advice above, pay attention to. Fire blocks in walls are hell for cable running.
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Oct 25, 2016 18:59
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Stupid question but why are people running CAT6 all over their house? I've heard that a lot when people build a house or renovate a house that you gotta cat the poo poo out of it, dual ports, wires everywhere. Other than a single connection for my internet, what else would I be plugging in? A router in every room?
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Oct 25, 2016 19:09
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kid sinister posted:No, shut it off at the water heater and turn on the cold. Does any water come out at pressure? That's what I did. I completely shut off the hot line at the heater and then ran the hot to allow any residual water to leave the pipes. The cold line elsewhere in the house runs cold enough that it feels cold, but even if the hot is completely turned off and cleared out of the pipes, the cold still runs lukewarm in JUST that bathroom.
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Oct 25, 2016 19:10
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Baronjutter posted:Stupid question but why are people running CAT6 all over their house? I've heard that a lot when people build a house or renovate a house that you gotta cat the poo poo out of it, dual ports, wires everywhere. Other than a single connection for my internet, what else would I be plugging in? A router in every room? Hardlines are great. Wifi is usually good but can be an issue with certain houses, especially big ones and ones with odd material in the walls.
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Oct 25, 2016 19:10
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Baronjutter posted:Stupid question but why are people running CAT6 all over their house? I've heard that a lot when people build a house or renovate a house that you gotta cat the poo poo out of it, dual ports, wires everywhere. Other than a single connection for my internet, what else would I be plugging in? A router in every room? Uhm Smart TV Console AppleTV/Roku/Amazon Fire TV Blu-Ray Player I mean, the list can go on and on. Wifi is a valid option for most people, but not for everyone.
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Oct 25, 2016 19:12
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Baronjutter posted:Stupid question but why are people running CAT6 all over their house? I've heard that a lot when people build a house or renovate a house that you gotta cat the poo poo out of it, dual ports, wires everywhere. Other than a single connection for my internet, what else would I be plugging in? A router in every room? Smart TVs? Bluray players? Video game consoles? Wifi is great, but it can still be a pain to always get a signal everywhere inside the same house. Wired always trumps wireless for speed and reliability. I think DirecTV needs an internet connection too to be able to use their streaming service and "rewind to begninning" feature.
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Oct 25, 2016 19:12
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D34THROW posted:That's what I did. I completely shut off the hot line at the heater and then ran the hot to allow any residual water to leave the pipes. The cold line elsewhere in the house runs cold enough that it feels cold, but even if the hot is completely turned off and cleared out of the pipes, the cold still runs lukewarm in JUST that bathroom. That's... odd. Does that bathroom have a secondary water heater? Try this then: shut off the water heater, make sure you reopened the valve under the sink, then try just the hot at the sink. Does water come out at pressure? You tried something similar before, but did you remember to open up the hot stop valve under the sink from when you tested before? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Oct 25, 2016 |
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Oct 25, 2016 19:19
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You could just put a switch in any room where you needed multiple ports. One reason to run more than one line is if you need to place the primary router in that room - it allows you to bring your internet connection in from elsewhere, into the router, and then back out to everywhere else. But for any given room that isn't where the main router goes, in theory you only need one port to connect as many devices as you want. The drawback though is that they share the bandwidth of that line. The switch passes all traffic down that line to the router, and so if you're simultaneously streaming video on your TV, playing online games on a computer, downloading gigs of porn on another computer, etc. all in the same room, I suppose you could be topping out the bandwidth available on one line of Cat-6. But I doubt it. Another thing is that you can use an ethernet line as a phone line, so if you run at least two drops of ethernet everywhere, you don't also need hardwired phone lines at all. Except, hardwired phones are obsolete, right? If you have cable internet you probably already get your phone via the same provider, if you bother with a hard phone at all.
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Oct 25, 2016 19:21
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Wasabi the J posted:Could I do the same thing with a nut and some fishing line with a strong neodynium magnet? for residential i like using something like this https://www.amazon.com/ICC-Patch-Pa...one+patch+panel on the switch side. it uses the same keystone jacks you put on the wall side so if you add or change any cables they just snap in rather than trying to flip a whole patch panel without popping the other connections loose.
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Oct 25, 2016 19:23
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Wasabi the J posted:Could I do the same thing with a nut and some fishing line with a strong neodynium magnet? When I did my house I went all-in with leviton's structured wiring and I really like it: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47605-42W-Structured-Enclosure-42-Inch/dp/B0002472KK I've got a couple shelves in there with my modem/switch/router and this block: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-476TM-612-Twist-Mount-Patch/dp/B003O84ZWO/ it uses the same modules as their rackmount units. I have access to my attic, so I used D-rings to hang the cable then just dropped into the walls between the studs and used low voltage rings with quickport wallplates. Qwijib0 fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Oct 25, 2016 |
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Oct 25, 2016 19:32
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kid sinister posted:That's... odd. Does that bathroom have a secondary water heater? Try this then: shut off the water heater, make sure you reopened the valve under the sink, then try just the hot at the sink. Does water come out at pressure? You tried something similar before, but did you remember to open up the hot stop valve under the sink from when you tested before? Not as far as I'm aware. I shut off the heater, opened the hot valve under the sink, and let it run until it slowed and stopped. The cold was still lukewarm. Weirdest fuckin' thing I've ever seen.
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Oct 25, 2016 20:09
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Is there really a point to running CAT6? CAT5e can do gigabit, is easier to run and terminate, and honestly I don't see 10 Gig being a thing in the home any time soon.
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Oct 25, 2016 20:19
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If you're in there, why not run the best? It's marginally more expensive, but who knows if some VR poo poo or something in the future will require CAT 6? Also you can run HDMI over ethernet if you want, and it works better with CAT 6 over long runs.
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Oct 25, 2016 20:27
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Kinfolk Jones posted:Is there really a point to running CAT6? CAT5e can do gigabit, is easier to run and terminate, and honestly I don't see 10 Gig being a thing in the home any time soon. Alereon fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Oct 25, 2016 |
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Oct 25, 2016 20:31
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D34THROW posted:Not as far as I'm aware. drat. Try asking in the stickied plumbing thread here in DIY. This one has stumped me. Kinfolk Jones posted:Is there really a point to running CAT6? CAT5e can do gigabit, is easier to run and terminate, and honestly I don't see 10 Gig being a thing in the home any time soon. You've obviously never climbed around in an attic full of itchy fiberglass insulation during a summer afternoon. If you're going to all that trouble in an environment that totally sucks, you might as well future proof as well as you can so that you don't have to go up there again anytime soon.
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Oct 25, 2016 20:43
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Kinfolk Jones posted:Is there really a point to running CAT6? CAT5e can do gigabit, is easier to run and terminate, and honestly I don't see 10 Gig being a thing in the home any time soon. It's not much more expensive and running cables through the attic sucks balls, especially during the summer. You run CAT6 now so that you don't have to go up there and re-run it later.
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Oct 25, 2016 20:49
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Baronjutter posted:Stupid question but why are people running CAT6 all over their house? I've heard that a lot when people build a house or renovate a house that you gotta cat the poo poo out of it, dual ports, wires everywhere. Other than a single connection for my internet, what else would I be plugging in? A router in every room? WiFi is for mobile devices. If it doesn't move, it should be plugged in. Leave the interference-laden shared spectrum for devices that can't practically be wired. A kind of half-assed analogy for this thread would be the difference in construction between a house and an RV. Parts for RVs make a lot of tradeoffs for mobility and are great for that, but would be a really dumb choice for a normal house. Sure you could build a house using RV parts and have it work, and potentially for some uses not even notice the difference, but it most definitely won't be as good as using the normal stuff. The same applies to WiFi, sure modern WiFi is theoretically faster than most internet connections so if all you do is browse the web and stream Netflix you might not notice the difference, but add a few more users, try transferring things between devices, microwave some popcorn, and see how it falls apart where a wired network keeps trucking along at full speed. Kinfolk Jones posted:Is there really a point to running CAT6? CAT5e can do gigabit, is easier to run and terminate, and honestly I don't see 10 Gig being a thing in the home any time soon. Also some of us are turbonerds and 10G in the home is closer than you'd think. Network card prices are where I'm OK with them, just switches are still a bit too expensive for my tastes. Also also it allows for other x-over-twisted-pair things like HDMI-over-Cat6 which may require the greater bandwidth offered by Cat6 cables, which is also a good reason for "over-wiring" your needs. e:f;b Funny how similar all our replies ended up on that part. gently caress attic work. wolrah fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Oct 25, 2016 |
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Oct 25, 2016 20:52
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Thanks guys, great suggestions. Wiring CAT6 everywhere is great because I don't have to worry about the myriad of RF interference loving with my connectivity; I stream all my TV and movie content, and have gigabit fiber to the home, so being able to make things rock solid is a huge boon in the long run. Being on two or three devices browsing around isn't a big deal, but throw in high def streams and gaming, and suddenly throughput takes a poo poo.
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Oct 25, 2016 22:08
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E32jCnR2lUk
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Oct 25, 2016 22:13
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Wasabi the J posted:Thanks guys, great suggestions. Now I am picturing you browsing the Internet on your phone, laptop, and desktop while playing an fps on ps4 while streaming the jungle book to your Apple TV, man you like to party
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Oct 25, 2016 22:59
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Cat6 sounds like a great alternative for when I am trying to do ANYTHING and the husband needs to move a terabyte of porn at the same time
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Oct 25, 2016 23:36
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If you have NAS, you want a wired network.
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Oct 25, 2016 23:58
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D34THROW posted:Not as far as I'm aware. Any chance you have a long stretch near a heating duct? It would eventually run cold though.
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Oct 26, 2016 00:04
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D34THROW posted:I shut off the heater, opened the hot valve under the sink, and let it run until it slowed and stopped. The cold was still lukewarm. Is it normal that water still flows with the valve closed at the hot water heater? If you only open the hot at the sink, how can water move in the pipes (unless you have a leak letting air into the line somewhere or an expansion tank after the heater)? When I've done work on my water piping and had to drain the line, I opened a faucet on the second floor to get the water to drain in the basement. Does the cold water remain lukewarm no natter how long you run it?
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Oct 26, 2016 01:16
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Special A posted:Is it normal that water still flows with the valve closed at the hot water heater? If you only open the hot at the sink, how can water move in the pipes (unless you have a leak letting air into the line somewhere or an expansion tank after the heater)? When I've done work on my water piping and had to drain the line, I opened a faucet on the second floor to get the water to drain in the basement. Yes, that is normal. Regular water pressure is up to 80 PSI. Opening the faucet starts reliving that pressure, but anything greater than 0 will make water come out of the faucet. Once it hits zero, it will start letting air in, then gravity and glugging start working.
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Oct 26, 2016 06:10
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NancyPants posted:Cat6 sounds like a great alternative for when I am trying to do ANYTHING and the husband needs to move a terabyte of porn at the same time Bozart posted:Now I am picturing you browsing the Internet on your phone, laptop, and desktop while playing an fps on ps4 while streaming the jungle book to your Apple TV, man you like to party Hey man, sometimes you got dozens of gigs of
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Oct 26, 2016 06:26
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I feel like this is a good time to mention a neodymium magnet is the best stud finder hands down. Start looking for screws at the level you would hold a drill. Find one, just keep moving down the wall, they'll all be in a row.
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Oct 26, 2016 12:26
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Assuming you have regular walls. Our whole apartment is plaster and lathe, and neodymium magnets are very iffy if at all useful. We ended up getting a really fancy finder to hang shelves.
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Oct 26, 2016 14:03
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Ashcans posted:Assuming you have regular walls. Our whole apartment is plaster and lathe, and neodymium magnets are very iffy if at all useful. We ended up getting a really fancy finder to hang shelves.
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Oct 26, 2016 14:53
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Special A posted:Does the cold water remain lukewarm no natter how long you run it? Yep! I'm giving up at this point. I'll post in the plumbing thread at some point, but for right now, I'm just frustrated and need to walk away from it. Thanks, everyone, for the help!
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Oct 26, 2016 14:56
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kid sinister posted:Yes, that is normal. Regular water pressure is up to 80 PSI. Opening the faucet starts reliving that pressure, but anything greater than 0 will make water come out of the faucet. Once it hits zero, it will start letting air in, then gravity and glugging start working. That would be true if there was an expansion tank. Water is incompressible though, so it can't expand to relieve the pressure. Any movement of the water out of the pipe would create a vacuum counteracting the ability of the water to move in the system. Unless air can be introduced into the system to relieve the vacuum "pressure", the water shouldn't move much from opening one faucet, just like how the column in a barometer tube is held above the surface of the fluid, or how how can keep a fluid in a straw by putting your finger over one end of it. Obviously I'm assuming that the house doesn't have water pipes that extend vertically 30 ft or so, and that the supply piping is relatively rigid. I would assume that pex doesn't expand significantly under pressure, at least not enough to result in a significant quantity of water leaving a faucet as the pipe contracts when the pressure is relieved.
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Oct 26, 2016 15:05
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The way he phrased the description, I gathered that the MIL bathroom is lower than other stuff and just drained the lines out of the faucet.
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Oct 26, 2016 15:21
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D34THROW posted:Yep! I'm giving up at this point. I'll post in the plumbing thread at some point, but for right now, I'm just frustrated and need to walk away from it. I can't give up yet!  Does this happen year-round or is this a recent occurrence? If it's only recently, and you are running heat in your house now? Do you have radiant heat running where the pipe is, or a hydronic heating pipe running next to the cold water pipe? Any chance you can take the temperature of the water, both at the sink in question and at a normal location? We could figure out how much heat is being transferred to the water, which might help in figuring out what could realistically transfer that much heat. Also, do you know if your water lines are copper or pex?
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Oct 26, 2016 15:24
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I would just like to inform the thread that  is now a thing.
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Oct 26, 2016 15:27
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Slugworth posted:Model/make? In my experience, with plaster, magnets are the *only* option, unless it's plaster on that chicken wire nonsense, at which point your only option is fire. This is the one we ended up with. I have a whole stack of neodymium magnets and tried to use them, but the plaster was so thick I couldn't find anything (I tried to practice by trying to pick up studs under shelves that had already been put up). With this one I would use bits of painters tape to mark magnetic hits across a wall until I had enough to work out where the studs were - sometimes there was some random thing in the plaster that would ping, so by mapping a bunch of hits I could work out which were studs and which were wayward nails or other trash. It probably depends on your place. This house was built in the 1880s and I am pretty sure the walls have been re-plastered at least once, so it may have more poo poo in the way than most plaster walls. Or maybe that thing is bunk and I just got lucky. My shelves are up, though!
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Oct 26, 2016 15:40
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Slugworth posted:Model/make? In my experience, with plaster, magnets are the *only* option, unless it's plaster on that chicken wire nonsense, at which point your only option is fire. I use this guy and it works great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI Sweethome tested a bunch and they agreed http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-stud-finder/
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Oct 26, 2016 15:39
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