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they would hit other stuff on the board. thinking about trying to replace them with something smaller, or just shitcan them all together.
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Nov 15, 2016 02:52
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They're probably more important than you'd give them credit for. Can caps are really low ESR and ESL, which is necessary for any kind of performance.
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Nov 15, 2016 02:57
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Just blew out an ESC on my racer 250. Crashed in the mud, shorted out as best I can tell. It looked like the motor spun backwards a bunch because the cap was actually mostly unscrewed when I showed up. Basically librepilot doesn't actually do anything with the motors at zero throttle even if you have "spin motors when armed" turned on. So I kept rediscovering this when I'd try to roll and end up falling like a brick. Eventually I forgot too close to the ground. Didn't want to wait another two weeks for a single replacement esc, so I just went with the best reviewed cheap 4-pack that ran blheli on Amazon for same day shipping. Replaced four ESCs this weekend (probably leveled up my soldering about 25 points, by the last one it had started looking like someone who knew what they were doing had done the job), reflashed with betaflight, and turned on oneshot + airmode. Holy gently caress it is like I have a completely different quad. It doesn't oscillate like gently caress when I drop altitude, it is so responsive it blows my mind. It even sounds better, much less "swarm of angry bees", more just a cohesive ... drone. I guess. Ran five packs through it and actually felt like I'm starting to really get the hang of acro. My Crossbones kit preorder just shipped along with a Taranis. I still plan on hacking this thing in at least one more way (make the rx/tx support 10ch, I actually lost one channel moving to betaflight) but I'm excited to build a nice new quad now that I've abused this one so much and learned how to fix it.
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Nov 15, 2016 06:32
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"Spin motors when armed" is a safety feature, to indicate that the quad is armed, by spinning the props. The idea is to avoid uncertainty about the armed status, because there's tons of people cutting their fingers up over with *flight because of that and their weird airmode. Ideally, you have a timeout set for auto-disarming, if the receiver is in failsafe for more than say 3 seconds. Unless you want to burn up your motors after a crash and can't disarm. If you want the quad to be able to maintain attitude at zero throttle, you need to enable Librepilot's airmode equivalent (apparently "Always stabilize while armed"). Also, angry bee sounds means you have too much D (lulz) in the PIDs. Makes the motor oscillate at high frequency and turns them into ovens. If you used Librepilots autotune, it's essentially broken. They took dRonin's version and added a bunch of tweaks without really understanding what the autotune algorithm does, which will lead to tamer PIDs than necessary, in turn to slower response. The problem with Librepilot and dRonin is that for the current implementation of autotune to work properly, the PIDs need to be undertuned quite a bit. Thus they ship with lovely out-of-the-box PIDs. Nothing stops them to make racequads perform adequately OOB like Betaflight does, except that it'd "break" autotune, because people don't like to read instructions and go undertune things themselves. Hopefully the upcoming autotune in dRonin fixes that. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Nov 15, 2016 |
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Nov 15, 2016 18:17
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Boy howdy is the inspire 2 purchasing process confusing. Why sell tb50 batteries in singles when you have to use in pairs?
moron izzard fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Nov 15, 2016 |
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Nov 15, 2016 22:16
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Looking to buy a drone for messing around with and hopefully making a few bucks doing aerial photos and video for people. Obviously I will need to get my certifications and stuff. Thinking along the lines of starting out with a Mavic and seeing how stuff goes. Then if it starts working out well upgrading most likely to the inspire. Obviously the fact that the phantom 4 pro has had a big camera update has now made me think just start with that and it would last longer. Any advice?
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Nov 16, 2016 10:53
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There will likely be many selling off their p3 and p4 for the upgrade, and the mavic is difficult to get at the moment.
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Nov 16, 2016 14:18
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Im moving to a 5 acre property with no trees in a month. What is the best way to utilise this space, drone wise? I was thinking of picking up a FPV racer of some kind to blast around in.
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Nov 17, 2016 06:02
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That's the way to do it. Get a ham license, build it yourself, use 433/1.3 gear and fly your whole property from your back porch.
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Nov 17, 2016 06:18
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2.4ghz radio wont be enough?
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Nov 17, 2016 06:32
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frsky should be fine, dsm2/dsmx may not.
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Nov 17, 2016 07:29
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are any of the FPV RTF kits gonna cut the mustard for what I wanna do? Im not new to RC or even drones, I just cant be hosed putting in hours of research into all the little components when surely someone already just bundles them together. that said my last serious drone was the hobby king Flamewheel 450 clone that was terrible to fly and even worse to tune.
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Nov 17, 2016 09:28
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The Vortex is by all accounts a decent machine.
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Nov 17, 2016 09:54
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Vortex and vendetta are the 2 worth having IIRC.
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Nov 17, 2016 10:00
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Laserface posted:2.4ghz radio wont be enough? I read "5 acre" as "5 mile". 2.4 is plenty and you can do it with 5.8ghz 600mw with good antennas.
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Nov 17, 2016 16:39
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Could a 1400 battery even make it 5 miles out and back? That seems like a stretch.
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Nov 17, 2016 21:11
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Not on a quad. It might get you ~5 miles total.
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Nov 17, 2016 21:38
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Laserface posted:are any of the FPV RTF kits gonna cut the mustard for what I wanna do? Im not new to RC or even drones, I just cant be hosed putting in hours of research into all the little components when surely someone already just bundles them together. Vortex and vendetta for non China, eachine wizard and that new diatone crusader for China Edit: holybro shurikens ain't bad either moron izzard fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 01:15
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A Yolo Wizard posted:Vortex and vendetta for non China, eachine wizard and that new diatone crusader for China The shuriken 250 looks cool, as does the vortex and the vendetta. Thanks for the suggestions.
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Nov 18, 2016 04:00
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Same kinda question, I used to fly a lot of reasonably high-peformance R/C airplanes (GP Dazzler, etc) and I've flown intermittently ever since. I'd like to get a FPV drone with good video and good performance range/dwell time. Probably like a quad/hex, ideally with swappable arms so I can replace them if I gently caress up. Where are the big cutoffs in performance/price? I don't want to throw away money on either something that's trashy cheap or needlessly expensive. Do I just go to Hobby King and buy a generic glass-fiber frame and tack on a gimbal system or what? Is there anything that has really outclassed the Hitec Optic with a 2.4 Ghz module? Because compared to the Futaba T6XAS I used to use the Optic was the loving bomb for complex/twitchy setups but that was like a decade ago. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 07:25
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For what kind of flying? If I were after a good platform with decent on-station time I'd probably make a tricopter.
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Nov 19, 2016 12:10
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The rcexplorer tricopter is a great platform for fpv and will fit a GoPro, if you aren't interested in buying something like a phantom 3 advanced or higher. I think most here are using taranis x9d transmitters (or occasionally fly sky clones or spektrum) at the moment. There's an afhss jr module for it if you want backward compatibility with your hired receivers moron izzard fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 14:28
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I just had two fly-aways (resulting in two crashes) using one of those LemonRX DSMX receivers. Not sure if I want to roll the dice and get another, or try an Orange, or use a real Spektrum. The little LemonRX fits so well in this tiny little plane though. *sigh* Hnnnnggg... that is awesome. Nice work. My Rhythmic Crotch fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 22:03
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:I just had two fly-aways (resulting in two crashes) using one of those LemonRX DSMX receivers. I have a LemonRX DSMx on my 130 quad. Was this a quadcopter? If so, what was your failsafe set to on your FC? That makes me a little nervous...
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Nov 20, 2016 00:02
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No, it's a plane. I'm pretty jealous of the amount of cheap, tiny flight controllers for quads. Seems like the options are limited and more expensive for planes.
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Nov 20, 2016 00:23
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Dsmx is bad. You can try to get used spectrum receivers on rcgroups though
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Nov 20, 2016 00:28
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Can you elaborate? Why is it bad?
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Nov 20, 2016 00:38
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I built a new Morphite V1 and designed a new camera cover for it: It was inspired by the Hornet B2 and I designed it with making a carbon version in mind and finally got around to doing that this week: In the vacuum bag:  Demolded:  Cut and finished:   And mounted!:  The bottom part will eventually also be made out of carbon. I had my first concrete session with it yesterday and it survived a headon with a concrete pillar with no issues at all.
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Nov 20, 2016 04:02
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I built a new Morphite V1 and designed a new camera cover for it: drat that's fuckin baller. Awesome job.
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Nov 20, 2016 04:08
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Yeah that's nice. I've never made my own CF parts, can you tell some more details about the process? Did you use pre-preg? How do you do the mold, did you 3d print the negative of the part?
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Nov 20, 2016 05:05
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Heck, if using prepreg how did you cure it?
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Nov 20, 2016 08:23
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No, not prepreg, but a standard epoxy layup. I printed a mold following the inside shape of the cover. This was covered with a thick mixture of epoxy and lightweight filler and then sanded down. This was then waxed (repeatedly). I had previously bought some 5oz carbon 'tape' (like this: http://www.acpsales.com/OnlineStore.php?cat=4993) and similar some kevlar tape in 2" width, which I then cut to length. I had layers of carbon and one layer of kevlar. This was wetted with epoxy, rolled out remove excess and placed on the mold. On top of that, I then had a matching cutout of mylar (also waxed), which helps give the mirror finish. All this was placed in a vacuum bag, sealed and then I applied about 20" of vacuum for 12 hours. Ideal is 24 hours, but I'm in a shared space and my vacuum setup isn't as tight as I would have, so the pump is kicking in every 5 minutes or so. So to preserve peace, I left it overnight and turned it off in the morning, so the pump wouldn't drive people nuts. After demolding, I stuck on some masking tape, marked off the shape from the 3D printed version and then with a combination of a dremel with a cut-off wheel, a jewelers saw, sandpaper and some files, made the final shape. Apart from the dust (you need a proper respirator), carbon is quite easy to work with. All in, I used about 1 yard of carbon, 4" of kevlar and maybe another $5 worth of consumables. It does take a fair amount of tools and without a 3D printer, a lot more work in making the mold. I build the vacuum setup from a basic 12v pump like this: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10398 As it was initially meant for doing foamcore airfoils, 12-14" HG was sufficient, but it actually pulls 20". Fittings can be a bit more tricky to find for cheap and you quickly end up spending ~$100 once you're gotten all the bits. Then there's vacuum bag, peel ply, sealant tape, epoxy, gloves, etc etc.
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Nov 20, 2016 09:03
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What frame is that, anyway? --edit: Nevermind, I need glasses. --edit: I've been considering going with something like the DTFc and 4-6S capable camera gear, to not require a PDB and subsequently be able to build a really flat quad, to lower total CG. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Nov 20, 2016 |
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Nov 20, 2016 15:31
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:Can you elaborate? Why is it bad? In practice, it ends up not having the level of robustness of other 2.4ghz protocols. They (spektrum)do finally have a diversity receiver for miniquads that probably helps with the dropouts, but you're still getting less for your money.
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Nov 20, 2016 16:39
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Laid up and vacuum-bagged one of the stabilators last night:  Not perfect, but perfectly functional. Was actually a bit too conservative on the epoxy, so will use more on the other one tonight. I also mounted all the carbon reinforcement and the kevlar hinge with 3M 77 in advance this time, rather than doing it at the layup like I did on this one. It was very hard to keep it straight.
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Nov 21, 2016 02:14
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Dshot blindtest: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hDi-NRZq9Y Basically; unless you got noise issues, there's no point.
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Nov 22, 2016 00:53
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Pretty much expected. All the inertial effects in the power train act like a lowpass filter over the incoming command signal. Whether it's jittery Oneshot125 or super accurate Dshot, the end result will be pretty much the same.
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Nov 22, 2016 02:43
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What would be the go to motor/esc set for a 450 size quad these days? I've gone through all my spare motor + ESC's over the last couple of years so my quad is currently unserviceable and am out of touch with the current (budget end) offerings. The cheap orange Turnigy motors and ESC's I was using are no longer for sale so an upgrade is required. It's a DJI flamewheel clone with a tarot gimble and a mobius cam. Currently running a Naze 32 but open to suggestions on upgrading my flight controller to something more camera ship oriented as well. I'm guessing it should be possible to get better flight times with more modern hardware now.
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Nov 22, 2016 09:52
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Inazuma posted:What would be the go to motor/esc set for a 450 size quad these days? I've gone through all my spare motor + ESC's over the last couple of years so my quad is currently unserviceable and am out of touch with the current (budget end) offerings. The cheap orange Turnigy motors and ESC's I was using are no longer for sale so an upgrade is required. It's a DJI flamewheel clone with a tarot gimble and a mobius cam. Currently running a Naze 32 but open to suggestions on upgrading my flight controller to something more camera ship oriented as well. Any of the modern mini quad ESC's will work very well since now those pull more current than the 450's. Littlebee 30A or Littlebee-S 30A are a very safe option and you'll probably be fine with the 20A as well. I've been doing some experimentation with an octo running these with 3DR Iris+ motors (picked up on blowout for 3 bucks each) with HQ10x3.8 props or replacement Phantom II props on 3S and that's a great budget option that will get you ~9 grams per watt. RMRC has the T motor MN2212-920 which is the same thing for 23 bucks apiece. Another option is the Antigravity 2214-920 at four for 75. These options will actually make the aircraft more efficient and fly much better than what you had.
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Nov 22, 2016 15:31
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 11:32 |
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Inazuma posted:What would be the go to motor/esc set for a 450 size quad these days? I've gone through all my spare motor + ESC's over the last couple of years so my quad is currently unserviceable and am out of touch with the current (budget end) offerings. The cheap orange Turnigy motors and ESC's I was using are no longer for sale so an upgrade is required. It's a DJI flamewheel clone with a tarot gimble and a mobius cam. Currently running a Naze 32 but open to suggestions on upgrading my flight controller to something more camera ship oriented as well. I don't think it's changed much. What did you have? 2212's 1000kv? If that's what you need... i've got six of them.
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Nov 22, 2016 15:31
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