|
cakesmith handyman posted:Counterpoint, these are aimed to reduce high frequency sound, some jobs need low freq protection. Also, $260.
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 20:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 21:26 |
|
|
japtor posted:I'd say the counterpoint is that they're not for hearing protection in the first place. I and my full shop of power tools and 40 years of rock concerts and construction jobs can't hear and dgaf what you'd say, noob. *punches 'SUBMIT REPLY' so hard keyboard and table under it break
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 20:26
|
|
|
japtor posted:I'd say the counterpoint is that they're not for hearing protection in the first place. My mistake. I'm not familiar with the product.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 20:44
|
|
|
Etymonic has a cheaper version that is indeed designed for noise cancellation. I haven't tried them personally, but cycle asylum recommends them for motorcycles. Personally, these mightyplugs are what I use on my motorcycle, and hands down the best in ear hearing protection I've ever tried. Worth every penny, they comfortably mold inside your ear for a perfect seal every time, and they're reusable for ages so long as you clean the bulk of wax out of your ears and off them after use
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 21:45
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:That reminds me -- when I decide I need air filtration in addition to eye/ear protection, I end up wearing three pieces of PPE on my head all at the same time (mask, goggles, over-ear muffs) and it can get kind of unwieldy with all the straps and sometimes the mask causes the goggles to fog up. Anyone have any recommended integrated PPE "headsets" or whatever the term is that do ear/eye/breath protection? It's fine if they protect other stuff too (e.g. if they have a helmet or something) but those are the three I need most frequently. You can get something like the Trend Airshield Pro which is an on the head helmet that does air filtration and has an impact shield built in. Can be a bit top heavy though, depends on how long you want to wear it at a time. Rolls Royce option is the 3M Versaflo system. That has a belt pack air filter running up to a helmet. You can get all sorts of different head units, from simple lab sorta ones to full on hard hats with flame retardant shroud. You can add muffs to the helmets, they have a connector just like on hardhats. It costs a loving packet though so bring your credit card.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 02:10
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:That reminds me -- when I decide I need air filtration in addition to eye/ear protection, I end up wearing three pieces of PPE on my head all at the same time (mask, goggles, over-ear muffs) and it can get kind of unwieldy with all the straps and sometimes the mask causes the goggles to fog up. Anyone have any recommended integrated PPE "headsets" or whatever the term is that do ear/eye/breath protection? It's fine if they protect other stuff too (e.g. if they have a helmet or something) but those are the three I need most frequently. I used a North 5400 when I worked in a mining lab for a while. No ear pro built in, we always had either big muffs or hardhats with built in muffs + plugs. https://m.uline.com/h5/r/www.uline....AQ&gclsrc=aw.ds 3M makes a similar one. Get whatever fits your face better.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 07:33
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:Etymonic has a cheaper version that is indeed designed for noise cancellation. I haven't tried them personally, but cycle asylum recommends them for motorcycles. Those both look pretty good for general droning shop noise. I've got the ridiculously priced bose QC-20 earbuds that are loving brilliant at airplane noise (why I bought them - went through more than they they cost in other options that didn't work out for some reason or another). They also work pretty well for general droning shop noise. But for quick loud noises they are still poo poo as are any "active" noise reduction. For those kinds of noises (read: hammer blows, firing guns, etc) they are poo poo and only provide their PASSIVE hearing protection (not much) which simply can't be beat for any cheaper than this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013A0C0Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 10:06
|
|
|
Just got the newer 5000rpm 18v circ saw from makita. It is ridiculously nice compared to my old corded one, crazy power from batteries nowadays.  Dust extraction is done with makita's smaller battery vacuum, which I also use for my jigsaw, router, mitre saw and corded circ saw - is a compromise, but works well for the stuff I do. I plan to buy a track adapter for it and use it with makita tracks next spring, when building two chicken coops and an open garage, to get perfect straight cuts.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 12:09
|
|
|
Falco posted:If you want a small compressor for small nail guns and filling up tires, buy this one instead. Sure it doesn't have the "accessory kit," but that kit is worth basically nothing anyways. This California Air Tools one will be much quieter and most likely last longer for your. Thanks a ton for the recommendation. I used mine for the first time today, it worked great and is astoundingly quiet.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2016 21:36
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:Thanks a ton for the recommendation. I used mine for the first time today, it worked great and is astoundingly quiet. Awesome. I should probably take my own advice and replace the 6gallon Harbor Freight pancake that was given to me. It just seems silly to replace a tool when it works fine.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2016 06:30
|
|
|
Falco posted:Awesome. I should probably take my own advice and replace the 6gallon Harbor Freight pancake that was given to me. It just seems silly to replace a tool when it works fine. That's what I thought too when replacing my pc pancake compressor, which was just barely limping along, but I'm glad I did--huge quality of life improvement. I barely used the old one because it was excessively loud and the safety valve popped at a low psi draining the tank if left unattended, just a real piece of garbage. I wish I had gotten the California air tools one, but the black friday oiled craftsman model has also been pretty great, and wound up being half the cost after miscellaneous discounts
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2016 13:19
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:That's what I thought too when replacing my pc pancake compressor, which was just barely limping along, but I'm glad I did--huge quality of life improvement. I barely used the old one because it was excessively loud and the safety valve popped at a low psi draining the tank if left unattended, just a real piece of garbage.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2016 15:22
|
|
|
I got a Black and Decker RTX-3 Rotary Tool for Christmas. However, just before Christmas I also got this Dremel 4000 kit for just a bit more than the B&D one cost. I'm leaning towards keeping the Dremel, since some of the included accessories (the bigger stuff, not the bits, I got a shitload of bits on sale a few weeks ago) seem useful. I've seen mixed opinions on the Dremel stuff, but the overall theme seems to be that they're just overpriced which doesn't apply in my case. Am I making a poor choice? FWIW, I haven't owned a rotary tool before so I don't have any specific uses intended. Just general home owner stuff as it comes in handy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2016 19:58
|
|
|
stealie72 posted:Anecdote != evidence, but my dad has one of the water-heater sized craftsman compressors hard-plumbed into his barn/garage/woodshop and it's been a workhorse for him for more than a decade. Not exactly quiet, but it does its job and doesn't complain. He runs everything from impact wrenches to paint guns to just using it to blow dust off his wood tools. These are nice if you have it on the outside in its own soundproofed shed. Then you have no air compressor noise in the shop.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2016 21:31
|
|
|
BeastOfExmoor posted:I got a Black and Decker RTX-3 Rotary Tool for Christmas. However, just before Christmas I also got this Dremel 4000 kit for just a bit more than the B&D one cost. I'm leaning towards keeping the Dremel, since some of the included accessories (the bigger stuff, not the bits, I got a shitload of bits on sale a few weeks ago) seem useful. I've seen mixed opinions on the Dremel stuff, but the overall theme seems to be that they're just overpriced which doesn't apply in my case. Am I making a poor choice? I like my cordless dremel, and the last B&D tool I owned (18v drill) was a steaming pile of garbage, so that's my two cents. Not sure I would ever buy another b&d tool again
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2016 13:22
|
|
|
I got a corded B&D to replace the Dremel that's falling apart.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2016 13:58
|
|
|
BeastOfExmoor posted:I got a Black and Decker RTX-3 Rotary Tool for Christmas. However, just before Christmas I also got this Dremel 4000 kit for just a bit more than the B&D one cost. I'm leaning towards keeping the Dremel, since some of the included accessories (the bigger stuff, not the bits, I got a shitload of bits on sale a few weeks ago) seem useful. I've seen mixed opinions on the Dremel stuff, but the overall theme seems to be that they're just overpriced which doesn't apply in my case. Am I making a poor choice? The speed controllers on dremel 4000s are really unreliable.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2016 15:49
|
|
|
Any recommendations for a random orbital sander in the 50-60 dollar range? I do almost all my sanding outside so dust collection isn't a major priority.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2016 16:16
|
|
|
coathat posted:Any recommendations for a random orbital sander in the 50-60 dollar range? I do almost all my sanding outside so dust collection isn't a major priority. Sell a few more pints of blood and get a 5" Porter Cable. Mine's gone through 2 pads and a cord now. It's about 20 years old.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2016 16:49
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:Sell a few more pints of blood and get a 5" Porter Cable. Mine's gone through 2 pads and a cord now. It's about 20 years old. This. Have had my porter cable for a decade plus and it's utterly fantastic. I routinely use it to refinish furniture the hard way and generally abuse the hell out of it, and it never complains. On the other end, got a $30 B&D jigsaw for xmas and took it for a test drive on a pinewood derby blank yesterday and it was. . . not terrible. At all. Thanks to whoever in here recommended just going with the cheap one for the couple times a year I'd use it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2016 17:18
|
|
|
Used my $100 Festool ROS yesterday, it's nice. I've only ever owned PC sanders so I can only compare to those. It's better and produces an almost hand sanded quality surface. And it vibrates less.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2016 19:41
|
|
|
wormil posted:Used my $100 Festool ROS yesterday, it's nice. I've only ever owned PC sanders so I can only compare to those. It's better and produces an almost hand sanded quality surface. And it vibrates less. Is this some kind of "I got a one of a kind deal on tool" brag or did you mistype the price?
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2016 21:41
|
|
|
Anyone run a Stihl MS 660 chainsaw? I am looking at getting a used one and was wondering if anyone had thoughts on it or had any ideas or what to look out for.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2016 22:02
|
|
|
If this is your only chainsaw, find a good chiropractor. I've never run a 660, but I have a Husky 575xp, and I hate carrying it all day. The 660 weighs over 1.5 pounds more. If you plan on using it for milling, the power should be excellent, and the weight is inconsequential.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2016 23:28
|
|
|
peepsalot posted:Is this some kind of "I got a one of a kind deal on tool" brag or did you mistype the price? There was a weird sale on this product a couple months back and a bunch of people here got them (many backordered for months though).
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2016 23:45
|
|
|
One Legged Ninja posted:If this is your only chainsaw, find a good chiropractor. I've never run a 660, but I have a Husky 575xp, and I hate carrying it all day. The 660 weighs over 1.5 pounds more. If you plan on using it for milling, the power should be excellent, and the weight is inconsequential. We have a small saw with an 18"bar that I will use for bucking and small stuff. I hate it but it is good enough for light work. I want a big saw to handle the big work and can cut through a pecan trunk in one go without having to cut on both sides plus do some light milling work. I am not to worried about carrying it since that is what the tractor is for and the tractor saves the back on hauling the wood also.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2016 00:09
|
|
|
Atticus_1354 posted:Anyone run a Stihl MS 660 chainsaw? I am looking at getting a used one and was wondering if anyone had thoughts on it or had any ideas or what to look out for. What are you trying to cut and how?.....like on the ground, climbing, etc. I have a 440 and it's a loving beast and I love it. On the ground. It came to me junked and I put in an over-bored block and piston so it has plenty of rear end with a 24" bar on it. Should be about equivalent to a 660 with the same bar (which is the larger of the 2 stock ones for that saw). Would not climb with it. Edit: Sorry, didn't read down far enough. Buy that saw. It's a good one. Or as good as you'll get with minimal plastic unless you can find an 066 (good luck, I wanted an 044) Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Dec 28, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2016 01:31
|
|
|
peepsalot posted:Is this some kind of "I got a one of a kind deal on tool" brag or did you mistype the price? Back October-ish Festool introduced a new random orbit sander at $99. I assume the intent was to get their tools into hands that wouldn't normally hold them and no doubt it worked. It did for me. I don't know how many people bought one but I would guess a lot.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2016 02:15
|
|
|
Motronic posted:What are you trying to cut and how?.....like on the ground, climbing, etc. I considered the 440 also, but I want the bigger displacement for milling. But if I find a deal on a 440 I may jump on it since I won't be doing a ton of milling. I would eventually like to have a 24" bar setup for crosscutting smaller stuff as well as a 30"+ bar. Have this pecan currently sitting by the barn. It is just begging to be made in to a coffee table and some side tables for our cabin. 
Atticus_1354 fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Dec 28, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2016 03:30
|
|
|
I have a 660 setup for milling. It's got just enough power to cut through the ~30" black walnut and hard maple trees around our property. I prefer my smaller modded 362 for felling and a modded 260 PRO for limbing/general use.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2016 03:39
|
|
|
the spyder posted:I have a 660 setup for milling. It's got just enough power to cut through the ~30" black walnut and hard maple trees around our property. I prefer my smaller modded 362 for felling and a modded 260 PRO for limbing/general use. Do you have any pictures of your 660 setup? Are you using a granberg mill or something else? What chain and are you running an aux oiler? I know it is on the low end of power for milling, but that is fine for the few times a year I plan to use it. If I could buy a smaller saw to replace the crappy Paulon for general ground work I would. Maybe a used saw in the future.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2016 03:45
|
|
|
Atticus_1354 posted:I considered the 440 also, but I want the bigger displacement for milling. But if I find a deal on a 440 I may jump on it since I won't be doing a ton of milling. I would eventually like to have a 24" bar setup for crosscutting smaller stuff as well as a 30"+ bar. You need bigger power than what I'm doing if that is typical, even with the 50 to 52mm overbore kit I have in mine. I"m not even entirely sure the MS660 is quite big enough for that. I will tell you that the Stihl yellow chains are magic. Non homeowner poo poo so they will kick back if you're stupid, but drat they cut.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2016 04:06
|
|
|
Motronic posted:You need bigger power than what I'm doing if that is typical, even with the 50 to 52mm overbore kit I have in mine. I"m not even entirely sure the MS660 is quite big enough for that. That is typical, but it will only be a couple times a year event. So I can afford to cut slower and do half a log at a time. That log is also only about 6 feet long since I had to cut out bad wood. I may also use it to cut some junipers up, but that is a low impact activity since those are so small. The MS660 should be fine for that with an auxilary oiler and a reasonable pace based on my research.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2016 04:11
|
|
|
I ended up getting a Bosch ROS. It works good and the variable speed is nice. I'm going to try some of the the expensive ShopSmith sandpaper after I run through the cheap stuff I've got right now.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2016 17:58
|
|
|
Etymotic makes attenuators without the sound production functionality. These are an easier fit than foam and work very well. https://www.amazon.com/Etymotic-Res...attenuator&th=1
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 03:23
|
|
|
Is it wise to use regular quick-connect hose fittings for compressed air for my welding gas? Me and my brother got ourselves a new TIG/MMA/plasma rig, and the "gas inlet" is the same for both TIG welding (argon) and plasma cutting (air). This means I have to somehow change things between the argon bottle and air compressor. The welder just has a hose barb on the back, and disconnecting those is just a hassle. I was thinking, I could just put a short piece of hose there with a regular quick-connect coupling on it that would connect to my compressor (via an extension hose), and put a matching coupling on the hose from the argon regulator. Given the pressures involved (very low), I would expect this to work fine as long as I watch out for leaks to avoid losing all my precious argon gas. Would this work, or is there some stupid detail I haven't thought about? Is there some other type of fitting (that isn't a hose barb) that would be better?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 17:23
|
|
|
I can't see a problem there, neither will spark ignite or corrode the fitting.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 00:45
|
|
|
ionn posted:Is it wise to use regular quick-connect hose fittings for compressed air for my welding gas? You are fine using it for air/argon/any inert gas. Never use them for oxygen/acetylene or propane though, you have to buy special ones for fuel gases that have fuel rated gaskets in them.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 03:24
|
|
|
No, I'll only use it on the back of the TIG/plasma machine, and only for "nice" gases (air or inert). Those fittings seem to be rated for 20 bar/300 psi or more, and the argon is at way less pressure than that coming out of the regulator (<1 bar), and not very cold either at these low flow rates. I'll give it a try and see how it turns out. I run the MIG welder on CO2 and could possibly employ the same trick on that one (and to easily be able to use the argon bottle there), but in that case the gas bottle and welder have very little reason to come apart. If I would do anything where welding with CO2 wasn't "good enough", I'd likely go TIG anyway once I learn how to use that thing properly. My old stick welder had one single knob, the MIG welder has two, this one has thirteen plus a few switches. Though by just ignoring some of the functions for now (current ramp up/down and pulsing) it seems decently comprehensible and straightforward, I guess all it takes is a few argon bottles worth of practice. Edit: vvvv Always do anyway. ionn fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jan 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 08:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 21:26 |
|
|
Just be sure to close your bottle when you're done, because I have yet to see air hose/fittings that don't leak a little. Sometimes leading to the dog barking at 2AM because the compressor kicked on in the garage. Edit for breaking news: Not that Crafstman has been anything but crappy this millennium, but Sears is selling the brand to B&D: http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/2017/01/05/sears-kmart-stanley-black-decker-craftsman/96191312/ stealie72 fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Jan 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 15:01
|
|