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Guess I got lucky... I've got two cheap ones, plus a ScanGauge, and AutoEnginuity. They all read codes just fine.
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Jan 16, 2017 16:18
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It's like playing the lottery, I played and lost so I spent the extra $5 and bought a good one.
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Jan 16, 2017 21:08
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I recently bought a used Dremel MultiPro at a pawn shop for $35. I went to a near by hardware store and found they had a massive Dremel accessory kit for clearance 80% off, so I picked that up too. I got some safety glasses and other various things from the dollar store, all told no more than $100 was spent. Its a pretty sweet device. It seems to cut any sort of matter, so long as I use the correct bit! I think I might do stencils and carve designs into dollar store shot glasses, or maybe make some of those "inspirational stones" but write "gently caress you" on it instead. I donno the sky is the limit!  I already carved some creepy faces into a twig, and also tested the glass hole cutting attachment:   
Rutibex fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Jan 17, 2017 |
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Jan 17, 2017 07:10
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Dremels are cool, and good. Though, I've always had better luck money/hours of use-wise with 3rd party clone tools, getting a name brand Dremel for cheap is a good prospect. Just never get anything of theirs that is wireless. The only upgrade you have from here is a quiet air compressor and a pneumatic tool. Pat yourself on the back.
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Jan 17, 2017 07:16
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e: wrong thread
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Jan 17, 2017 07:18
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Dremels are cool, and good. Though, I've always had better luck money/hours of use-wise with 3rd party clone tools, getting a name brand Dremel for cheap is a good prospect. Just never get anything of theirs that is wireless. I wish I had known that before hand! I looked up a bunch of generic rotary tools, and I assumed they must be crap because they were less than half the price of a new Dremel. I guess they would have been just fine? Oh well, I guess I'll know that if this one ever burns out. I am becoming addicted to carving my name into various stone things. I've seen Roman graffiti, I know it'll be there forever 
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Jan 17, 2017 14:11
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Rutibex posted:I wish I had known that before hand! I looked up a bunch of generic rotary tools, and I assumed they must be crap because they were less than half the price of a new Dremel. I guess they would have been just fine? Oh well, I guess I'll know that if this one ever burns out. Its a fallacy to equate price with quality. Having said that, I have had a dremel that I use a lot and its into its 4th year.
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Jan 18, 2017 01:00
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Dremels are cool, and good. Though, I've always had better luck money/hours of use-wise with 3rd party clone tools, getting a name brand Dremel for cheap is a good prospect. Just never get anything of theirs that is wireless. Sample size of one, but my cordless dremel has been absolutely fantastic, and the battery is still going strong seven years later Would buy again in a heartbeat Also quote:The only upgrade you have from here is a
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Jan 18, 2017 03:29
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Crossposting from Fix It Fast: I have a tree that's acquired a bit of a lean after a windstorm: I can't get a motor vehicle back there, so I'm limited to man-portable tools. I've already had to cut down one tree because it was in the way of where I wanted to build my workshop. That one I did with a hand saw, and I'd rather the repeat performance go a little faster. So I'm looking for recommendations for an electric chainsaw -- electric because I don't anticipate needing to use it often, and I'd rather not have to deal with gas and a maintenance-requiring engine. Also, suggestions for ways to pull the tree down without using a motor vehicle would be welcome...but I suspect the only realistic answer would be "a winch and chain, and you'd better make damned sure the winch is anchored securely".
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Jan 18, 2017 03:44
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Get yourself a come-along and fix it to...whatever's at the other end of the yard and is sturdy. But really, if you attach it to the tree higher up, you don't need to put a TON of tension on it, just enough to tip it back away from the fence as you cut into it. Can be done with surprisingly little force.
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Jan 18, 2017 03:45
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OSU_Matthew posted:Sample size of one, but my cordless dremel has been absolutely fantastic, and the battery is still going strong seven years later Yeah, I meant die grinder. Couldn't think of the name. And my cordless Dremel 3000 or 2800 or whatever killed the battery it came with in six months. Won't charge, gives errors. I manually charged it with a benchtop power supply, but it still won't charge anymore after the first discharge. My first "dremel" was a rotary tool from K-mart. Lasted probably 3 years of heavy abuse, and it was $40. Then I opened it up and soldered thick wires over the burnt-out traces on the speed control switch, and got another 3 years out of it.
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Jan 18, 2017 11:32
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Bad Munki posted:Get yourself a come-along and fix it to...whatever's at the other end of the yard and is sturdy. But really, if you attach it to the tree higher up, you don't need to put a TON of tension on it, just enough to tip it back away from the fence as you cut into it. Can be done with surprisingly little force. Yup. Come along and a long rope. Tie a weight onto the end of the rope, toss it around the trunk as high as you can, wiggle the rope to get the weight back down to you, tie a bowline around the running end of the rope, and tension it with the come along.
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Jan 18, 2017 13:21
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For electric chainsaws, I have a Worx (available at Home Depot), and I love it for small/occasional tasks. It sits on a shelf for years at a time, but when I need it for something, I'm always pleasantly surprised at how well it cuts through stuff. In fact, the last time I used it was 3 years ago when a huge ice storm took down my neighbor's tree partially onto/blocking my car. I didn't have to mess with fuel or it not turning over; plugged it in and cut myself out in 15 minutes. Of course, you still have to do the basic chain maintenance (tension and oil) occasionally, but that's true for any chainsaw.
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Jan 18, 2017 14:06
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Yeah, I meant die grinder. Couldn't think of the name.  Thanks for this word! I thought the next bigger up would be an angle grinder or a pneumatic rotary tool or something. These die grinders are like $150, I could grab that easily. What is the difference between a rotary tool like a Dremel and an electric Die Grinder, the die grinders seem to run at a lower RPM than the Dremel, I assume they have more torque or something?
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Jan 18, 2017 15:03
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sharkytm posted:Yup. Come along and a long rope. Tie a weight onto the end of the rope, toss it around the trunk as high as you can, wiggle the rope to get the weight back down to you, tie a bowline around the running end of the rope, and tension it with the come along. Okay, thanks, both you and Bad Munki. Do you think it'd be feasible to anchor the end to a 2x4 stake hammered into the ground? The only solid structure nearby is my workshop, and I want the tree to go away from that. B-Nasty posted:For electric chainsaws, I have a Worx (available at Home Depot), and I love it for small/occasional tasks. Thanks for the recommendation!
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Jan 18, 2017 15:56
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Not sure about a single piece of 2x4, but I recently had to take down a 35-ish foot pine that was also leaning the wrong way (toward the neighbors and the electric wires). Hammered three pieces of rebar into the lawn at an angle, tied an old climbing rope about 25 feet up the trunk (as high as I could go on my ladder), attached the rope to a heavy-duty cam strap and then pulled on it as hard as I could and wove the cam strap through the three pieces of rebar like winding string through your fingers to spread the load a bit. Cammed it down till it was good and tight, since climbing rope has a fair amount of elasticity, and cut away. Tree fell just where I wanted it to and fell with maybe 1 inch of wood left to get through between the relief cut (which was pretty oversize to encourage it to fall that way) and the felling cut. Going to do the exact same thing next summer to the lovely tree that is still standing next to where that one was.
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Jan 18, 2017 21:57
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Yeah, some rebar driven good and deep would be way better than a bit of 2x4, you'll be able to drive it much deeper without doing anything crazy. Although really, depending on how much tension you need, something as small as, like, a riding lawn mower might be enough weight to anchor from.
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Jan 18, 2017 22:04
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I'll probably start with just trying to pull it directly, like, standing in the yard yanking on a rope. If the tree's really loose I might be able to just pull it over like that, with the right angle of attack (i.e. anchor as high up as possible, stand as far back as possible). I'm not exactly holding my breath, but it'd be really nice if it were that easy. Rebar does sound like a better anchor option than 2x4s, but I have plenty of junk 2x4s on-hand, whereas I have, like, 18" of rebar. I used 2x4 "stakes" as anchors for the bracing for my workshop's walls while the workshop was under construction, and some of those stakes were really hard to get out of the ground. Hit something enough times with a sledgehammer and it won't want to move.
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Jan 18, 2017 22:19
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You shouldn't need much tension if you notch it. The higher your attachment point the less tension you'll need. Unless your fence is huge that's a little tree, won't take much. In fact, if you get carried away with the tension the tree could snap unexpectedly and buck.
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Jan 18, 2017 22:23
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Sorry, to clarify, I was hoping to down the tree before making any cuts. It really depends on how loosely connected to the ground it is. I'd like to avoid trying to do major cuts on the tree with its current tilt, because I'm worried that suddenly removing weight / cutting into the trunk could cause it to shift in unpredictable ways. But assuming I can't just pull the tree down directly, obviously I'll need to cut something. I guess the question is, is it riskier to cut the upper branches off while the tree is still standing, or to notch the trunk and pull the tree down, risking it doing damage to the workshop as it falls? Obviously I'd try to angle the tree away from the workshop, but I've never felled a tree this way before, just dismembered it in place.
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Jan 18, 2017 22:35
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B-Nasty posted:For electric chainsaws, I have a Worx (available at Home Depot), and I love it for small/occasional tasks. It sits on a shelf for years at a time, but when I need it for something, I'm always pleasantly surprised at how well it cuts through stuff. In fact, the last time I used it was 3 years ago when a huge ice storm took down my neighbor's tree partially onto/blocking my car. I didn't have to mess with fuel or it not turning over; plugged it in and cut myself out in 15 minutes. I have one of these too, 16" bar, got it off Amazon. Again, sits for long periods, but when I need it, it's really nice to have.
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Jan 18, 2017 22:39
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Sorry, to clarify, I was hoping to down the tree before making any cuts. It really depends on how loosely connected to the ground it is. I'd like to avoid trying to do major cuts on the tree with its current tilt, because I'm worried that suddenly removing weight / cutting into the trunk could cause it to shift in unpredictable ways. But assuming I can't just pull the tree down directly, obviously I'll need to cut something. I guess the question is, is it riskier to cut the upper branches off while the tree is still standing, or to notch the trunk and pull the tree down, risking it doing damage to the workshop as it falls? Obviously I'd try to angle the tree away from the workshop, but I've never felled a tree this way before, just dismembered it in place. Attempting to simply pull the tree down through brute force is precisely how you lose control of the situation. Notching it a little bit makes a nice little hinge you can very precisely aim and control. You put tension on it, notch it, watch it flex in the direction you want, apply more tension, deepen the notch, etc. Once you're sure it's going to fall where you want, you finish the job and bring 'er down. It is a very controlled process right up until it finally comes down, at which point everything should be all nice and lined up, real tidy like. Hulking out on the tree could work, but there's no precision and once it starts going all pear shaped, all you can do is run for the hills and hope it doesn't land on you. At the same time, sure, you can limb it a bit, and if you wanted, you could do a few successive falls, taking the crown, then the mid, and finally the base, but if the tree decides to snap into place as you cut a section of trunk off, we'll be seeing you on the next Youtube Fails compilation unless you've prepared for that. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jan 18, 2017 |
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Jan 18, 2017 22:46
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Bad Munki posted:Attempting to simply pull the tree down through brute force is precisely how you lose control of the situation. Notching it a little bit makes a nice little hinge you can very precisely aim and control. You put tension on it, notch it, watch it flex in the direction you want, apply more tension, deepen the notch, etc. Once you're sure it's going to fall where you want, you finish the job and bring 'er down. It is a very controlled process right up until it finally comes down, at which point everything should be all nice and lined up, real tidy like. Okay, noted. Thanks for the advice.
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Jan 18, 2017 22:49
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Has anyone used an ultrasonic cleaner for rust removal? Any recommendations on models, or cleaning solution additives?
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Jan 19, 2017 00:52
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Notch the tree so it will fall the direction you want but then you cut the backside above the notch and the tree will fall toward your notch. This also prevents your saw from getting pinched. Never try to cut through from the notch side. The ropes help guide the tree.
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Jan 19, 2017 01:39
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OSU_Matthew posted:Has anyone used an ultrasonic cleaner for rust removal? Any recommendations on models, or cleaning solution additives? Vinegar or simple green. Use my tiny jewelry one all the time. Let parts soak in vinegar first.
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Jan 19, 2017 02:33
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Here is a good description of many ways to make impromptu anchor points. Also, if you make the notch greater than 90 degrees, and leave a nice hinge ( never cut through the hinge) while doing the back-cut, a little tree like that should be easy to guide right where you want it to go.
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Jan 19, 2017 02:42
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Thanks for all the advice folks. After thinking about it some more, though, I've decided to just hire a tree service to deal with this. Considering the fact that the tree's already leaning, the somewhat constrained space (I have about a 70-degree arc that it can safely fall in), the limbs hanging over the neighbor's fence...this is not a great Babby's First Tree. Some other day, some other place, where precision isn't as necessary and there's no worry that I'll end up accidentally caving in part of the workshop's roof. I cancelled my chainsaw order on Amazon...though, helpfully, they failed to cancel the chain oil I ordered with it. 
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Jan 19, 2017 03:07
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If this is a one-off then get an extra long sawzall blade. I see listings for up to 24".
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Jan 19, 2017 03:10
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Just do this
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Jan 20, 2017 05:57
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Easy peasy
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Jan 20, 2017 06:17
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Just do this I was just thinking of this last night. Goddamn, that opening is even smaller than I remembered it. I wonder what his expectation of success was, there. Like, 50%? 90%?
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Jan 20, 2017 16:08
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Rutibex posted:What is the difference between a rotary tool like a Dremel and an electric Die Grinder, the die grinders seem to run at a lower RPM than the Dremel, I assume they have more torque or something? They essentially the same thing but mostly in slightly different places on the size/power scale. There are things sold as "professional die grinders" on the smaller end of that scale that have essentially the same specs as a Dremel. Most decent dremel-like tools seem to have motors around 100-150W (though some cheapo ones have way less), but there are die grinders up to several hundred watts. The smaller tools seem to have a bit higher max RPM, but they're all usually in the neighbourhood of 20-30K rpm. FWIW, I use a Proxxon (think it's called an FBS 240) dremel-alike. Compared to the Dremels I've had or used, the Proxxon is quieter and has less vibration, has better controls, a much more solid drill stand, and hasn't died yet after a couple years of (ab)use. Might be the recent years Dremels are better, I haven't used any in a while.
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Jan 22, 2017 16:29
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks for all the advice folks. After thinking about it some more, though, I've decided to just hire a tree service to deal with this. Tree removal is high on the benefit/cost scale for me. The service I use has reliably removed trees for me a few times and every time they do it in less time than it would take for me to just un-bury the chainsaw from the garage, let alone figure out how to not kill myself with falling wood.
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Jan 22, 2017 16:38
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ionn posted:They essentially the same thing but mostly in slightly different places on the size/power scale. There are things sold as "professional die grinders" on the smaller end of that scale that have essentially the same specs as a Dremel. Most decent dremel-like tools seem to have motors around 100-150W (though some cheapo ones have way less), but there are die grinders up to several hundred watts. The smaller tools seem to have a bit higher max RPM, but they're all usually in the neighbourhood of 20-30K rpm. I decided to pick up another rotary tool! I was shopping on Amazon, looking for some diamond bits (I am using it for stone carving). I found Amazon is a lot better for diamond bits, they have 5 packs of diamond saws for $5 that go for $25 for one at the hardware store. Anyway I was looking for one of those flexible shaft attachments to use with the stylus pen (allows finer details, easier to hold for a long time) and I found this WEN 2305 that comes with the shaft included for $20! The Dremel brand shaft is over $40 on its own, so I got the Chinese knock off WEN. The extra rotary tool will be handy as a back-up, I honestly only wanted the flex shaft  https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8/ 
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Jan 22, 2017 18:30
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My wife and I just bought a house and I had to sand down a piece of wood trim to the left of the refrigerator so it would neatly fit back into its little alcove. I bought a random orbit sander and it worked like a charm. My question is: how long should I expect one of the sandpaper discs to last? After a couple minutes, the sandpaper itself felt smooth, where I would normally switch it out if I were hand-sanding something, but it was still taking some wood off. I got like a 15-pack for $10 so they're not expensive, I'm just new to this so I figured I'd ask. I'm super excited at all the grownup toys I'll be able to buy. Got a Dremel first thing, and it's already made itself extremely useful.
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Jan 24, 2017 20:26
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Rutibex posted:I decided to pick up another rotary tool! I was shopping on Amazon, looking for some diamond bits (I am using it for stone carving). I found Amazon is a lot better for diamond bits, they have 5 packs of diamond saws for $5 that go for $25 for one at the hardware store. Anyway I was looking for one of those flexible shaft attachments to use with the stylus pen (allows finer details, easier to hold for a long time) and I found this WEN 2305 that comes with the shaft included for $20! The Dremel brand shaft is over $40 on its own, so I got the Chinese knock off WEN. The extra rotary tool will be handy as a back-up, I honestly only wanted the flex shaft I had one of those. I broke the flex shaft  Granted, I was probably abusing it, but still, it broke.
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Jan 24, 2017 22:35
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The Midniter posted:My wife and I just bought a house and I had to sand down a piece of wood trim to the left of the refrigerator so it would neatly fit back into its little alcove. I bought a random orbit sander and it worked like a charm. My question is: how long should I expect one of the sandpaper discs to last? After a couple minutes, the sandpaper itself felt smooth, where I would normally switch it out if I were hand-sanding something, but it was still taking some wood off. I got like a 15-pack for $10 so they're not expensive, I'm just new to this so I figured I'd ask. Depends on the grit and quality of the sandpaper and what you are sending. Higher grits tend to fill up quicker in my experience. You can clean them out if you want to extend the life of the sandpaper. I got a specific chunk of rubber designed for that purpose, which cost me all of $20 and will extend the life of the sanding drums I use more than 10 fold. You can do some similar with plastic shopping bags for free though. There are YouTube clips on how to do it.
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Jan 25, 2017 04:59
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Canadagoons there are some amazing clearance deals at Walmart right now if you need consumer level WIRED power tools. Bostitch branded power tools are on clearance for 50% off . From what I can find online and in amazon reviews they are somewhere between black and decker and an off-branded DeWalt models with lower quality. But with the clearance they are cheaper then B&D and most garage sale tool finds for 20 year old jigsaws in bad condition. Onto the deals https://www.amazon.ca/BOSTITCH-BTE3...h+reciprocating Sawzall for 55 https://www.amazon.ca/BOSTITCH-BTE140K-2-Inch-2-Speed-Hammer/dp/B00FR6V6Z0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485565710&sr=8-2&keywords=bostitch+drill Powerdrill for 55 https://www.amazon.ca/BOSTITCH-BTE1...=drill+bostitch Wired drill for 32 https://www.amazon.ca/BOSTITCH-BTE340K-6-Amp-Orbital-Jig/dp/B00FR6V6ZK/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485565953&sr=1-4 Jigsaw for 32 https://www.amazon.ca/BOSTITCH-BTE3...ds=bostitch+saw I believe the orbital saw was also 32 Battery combo kit is also on clearance but I dont know how good the model /batteries are. Should be around 110 CDN https://www.amazon.ca/BOSTITCH-BTCK...=drill+bostitch These prices might not seem crazy to amerigoons but for us in the great white north these are amazing. A bad used orbital saw is usually atleast 60 and jigsaw 40 etc etc. patonthebach fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jan 28, 2017 |
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Jan 28, 2017 02:15
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patonthebach posted:Canadagoons there are some amazing clearance deals at Walmart right now if you need consumer level WIRED power tools. Bostitch branded power tools are on clearance for 50% off . From what I can find online and in amazon reviews they are somewhere between black and decker and an off-branded DeWalt models with lower quality. But with the clearance they are cheaper then B&D and most garage sale tool finds for 20 year old jigsaws in bad condition. Onto the deals Did they have an angle grinder on sale?
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Jan 28, 2017 22:32
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