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ExtraNoise posted:Pierzak showed me that this thread exists. I'm so excited.  Where do I go to learn about reverse-Beutepanzers, i.e. German tanks captured by Allied forces and used against them? Is that even a thing? Alternatively, did captured German tanks used later in field tests (especially by Soviets) have any specific markings, or did they just go "gently caress it, it's not like actual Nazi tanks are gonna appear on out testing grounds anyway"? Also, screw you people for making me browse this while I'm supposed to be working, have this thing I found as revenge:  it's paper
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Jan 29, 2017 13:33
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ExtraNoise posted:Pierzak showed me that this thread exists. I'm so excited. These are great, especially considering they're supposed to be for game use and not display. The only minor feedback I'd give is that it kinda looks like the sandbags on the front are about to topple off.
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Jan 29, 2017 18:23
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Pierzak posted:You're welcome Shameless self promotion time. http://tankarchives.blogspot.ca/search/label/107th%20ITB http://tankarchives.blogspot.ca/2013/10/valentines-and-panthers.html http://tankarchives.blogspot.ca/2016/07/captured-german-tanks-in-red-army.html http://tankarchives.blogspot.ca/2014/03/captured-tanks-in-red-army.html http://tankarchives.blogspot.ca/2013/12/su-76i.html http://tankarchives.blogspot.ca/2013/12/sg-122.html The Americans also got in on the game with Cuckoo the Panther. There are a lot more cases of captured vehicles being used on either front, of course. As for markings, as far as I'm aware the tanks that were used in trials carried their original markings.
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Jan 29, 2017 19:42
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So, I'm here at the Amherst Railway Society model train show, which is gigantic by the way, and I stopped by the Iwata booth. As someone with about 30 seconds of airbrushing experience (at the Iwata booth), can I just buy cheap stuff on Amazon to start with, or am I going to kick myself for not getting a good starter brush? They have an inexpensive low pressure compressor which is about the same amount of money I'd spend on a good regulator and water trap for my shop compressor, and it's quieter, too. I'd be doing fine detail N scale (1:160) eventually, but also landscape/scenery work.
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Jan 29, 2017 21:34
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I started out with a cheapo store brand piece of poo poo and upgraded to a good Paasche one recently, the difference is like night and day. I don't regret starting out with a cheap brush, since I had no idea you were supposed to scrub the paint channel after painting and probably would have hosed up a good one somehow, but if you can get a good deal right off the bat then you should probably go for it.
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Jan 29, 2017 23:24
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They didn't really have super deals that I saw but I didn't particularly cross shop them with online prices so maybe they were good deals. They didn't have any of the inexpensive compressors (15psi) left in stock. I'll probably pick up one of the inexpensive desktop compressors if I can find a good deal, since it's way quieter than my shop compressor.
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Jan 30, 2017 00:18
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Ensign Expendable posted:The Americans also got in on the game with Cuckoo the Panther. There are a lot more cases of captured vehicles being used on either front, of course.  did... did you just call the Coldstream Guards American?!?!
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Jan 30, 2017 01:44
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Mr. Powers posted:They didn't really have super deals that I saw but I didn't particularly cross shop them with online prices so maybe they were good deals. They didn't have any of the inexpensive compressors (15psi) left in stock. I'll probably pick up one of the inexpensive desktop compressors if I can find a good deal, since it's way quieter than my shop compressor. 15psi might be a bit low if that's all one can put out. I normally spray at 18-25psi depending on what I'm pushing. I used a quieter shop one for a while, but it was still pretty loud, so I ended up getting a Grex 1/8th HP one. It's crazy quiet, and I can use it in the middle of the night even. Admittedly expensive, but it's pretty nice for desktop use. I ended up piping a 1 gallon air tank in line and an extra dryer. So it doesn't end up running all the time I spray.
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Jan 30, 2017 01:53
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Arquinsiel posted:
I can't tell you Westerners apart
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Jan 30, 2017 02:09
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Cancel everything I said. My wife is on board with an airbrush that she can use for her craft stuff, too, so I don't need to go super cheapo anymore. E: top feed, side feed, bottom feed, gravity feed, siphon feed. The guy at the booth made it sound like there's no practical difference. Anyone want to clarify? carticket fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Jan 30, 2017 |
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Jan 30, 2017 02:39
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You'll want a top gravity feed, internal mix, dual action airbrush. Don't ask me why, that's just the advice I've heard over the years.
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Jan 30, 2017 02:49
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Hamshot posted:You'll want a top gravity feed, internal mix, dual action airbrush. Top gravity feed: don't waste paint Internal mix: paint is atomized inside the airbrush, cleaner, easier, don't waste paint dual action: better control of your work because you can control how much air you're spraying
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Jan 30, 2017 02:53
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I can't find any info on whether the Iwata Neo is internal mix, but the Revolution is listed as internal mix, so I'm guessing that means the Neo is NOT internal mix. The Revolution was suggested by them for starter. Looks like it's around $80-90.
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Jan 30, 2017 03:24
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Mr. Powers posted:I can't find any info on whether the Iwata Neo is internal mix, but the Revolution is listed as internal mix, so I'm guessing that means the Neo is NOT internal mix. The Revolution was suggested by them for starter. Looks like it's around $80-90. I don't actually think Iwata sells external mix airbrushes. I bought an Eclipse, it's pretty good, does everything I need it to. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQKFAI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They're usually cheaper than 143 bucks, though. I paid 85 for mine.
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Jan 30, 2017 03:30
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Pierzak posted:You're welcome Not directly relevant, but I'm going to take this opportunity to post my favorite identifying mark for a captured vehicle:  Even if you had no idea there were any of these in allied hands you'd immediately know whose troops you were looking at. I love it. Note that the Tamiya 1/35 Italian M13/40 kit comes with kangaroo decals. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Jan 30, 2017 |
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Jan 30, 2017 16:00
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Mr. Powers posted:I can't find any info on whether the Iwata Neo is internal mix, but the Revolution is listed as internal mix, so I'm guessing that means the Neo is NOT internal mix. The Revolution was suggested by them for starter. Looks like it's around $80-90. The Neo is an internal mix dual action, and in my experience (owning both an Eclipse gravity feed and a Neo Gravity feed) it delivers almost the same quality of the eclipse for about half the price. The only bad part about it is that it is significantly more difficult to clean than the Eclipse, on account of some differing design elements (like the way the nozzle screws in instead of the nozzle piece being mounted on a self-centering cone). I actually prefer siphon feed airbrushes like the Badger 155 Anthem, because they require less effort to deep clean and you can use them with a paint cup that is really not very different from a gravity feed. It does waste a tiny bit more paint, but this is almost negligible- you still use far less paint than if you'd brush paint. That being said, here's my advice for buying airbrushes based on the amount you're willing to spend: < $50 USD Don't bother. Anything below this range is almost universally crap that will fail in a few months of use, and since they're mostly knockoff Chinese brushes, it's hard to find working replacement parts. If you absolutely must, there are cheap single action brushes like the Badger 350 (Paasche also makes an equivalent) which will serve you only in base coats as you realize you should have just saved for a Neo at the very least. $50-70 USD Either the Iwata Neo gravity feed or siphon feed. If you get the siphon feed you will need a cup and probably some paint bottles for convenience, so if you're brand new, I would get the gravity feed option. The Neo is a good general purpose airbrush, but it suffers a little when dealing with thicker paints like stynylrez primer and replacing the nozzle (not an everyday task, but necessary in a deep clean) is a pain in the rear end because of the way it was designed. $70-100 USD Either the Badger 105 Patriot (gravity feed) or Badger 155 Anthem (siphon). This (the Anthem specifically) has been my most recent purchase, and I'm quite pleased with it. The Badgers have an open-ended rear handle, which makes removing the needle for cleaning super easy, and it's really good at shooting out difficult paint like stynylrez, model color, and acrylic clear coats that aren't future/pledge. The needle-tip is more exposed than on the Iwata brushes, which means it's easier to clear dry-tip. This is kind of a double edged sword, since the needle is exposed and it's easier to damage. Still, needles are only  and only need to be replaced rarely, so this isn't a huge downside.$100-200 There are a bunch of good brushes in this range, but the Iwata Eclipse series is a standout in terms of ease of use and versatility. The nozzle system on the Eclipse is really easy to clean, and as a matter of personal preference I find the double action trigger on the eclipse to be much better than anything else I've used (it's got a deeper, more springy push down and the tension on the pull back is tighter). It also has a cut through handle, though unlike the Badgers it doesn't allow you to remove the needle because the back isn't open. >$200 Well, now you're in the range of real high end airbrushes. There's really not a lot these high ends can do (for modeling, at least) that you can't do with better masking or airbrush technique, although fine detail brushes like Iwata's custom micron can really help if you want to freehand the really complex Panzer camo schemes with all the dots and the squiggly lines. Still, these require a lot of experience to use correctly, and you have to be more careful about getting your paint thinned exactly right because of the smaller needles that jam too easily. You can also get a mini spray gun to lay down base coats much faster. Definitely past the realm of beginner recommendations.
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Jan 30, 2017 20:25
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I started out with the cheap piece of crap airbrush that came with my compressor. It was sort of fine on large surfaces with thinned paint, but it would spit and splotch when doing details, and thicker primers were a no-go. The only thing good about it was its ability to backflow easily. I upgraded to the cheapest "real" airbrush I could find, an Harder & Steenbeck Ultra 0.2mm which I have a 0.4mm kit for also. I have freehanded camo in 1:144 and primered a big 1/48 A-10 with pretty good results. The only downside is that the tiny cup is press fit only and needs to be removed when cleaning/color changing. If I knew then what I know now I would have bought a 0.4mm first and then maybe a 0.2mm kit. Also I would have chosen one with a larger screw-on cup.
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Jan 30, 2017 22:14
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Hamshot posted:You'll want a top gravity feed, internal mix, dual action airbrush. I used a siphon feed Badger 150 for years and switched over to a gravity top feed Iwata Eclipse HP CS. Both are dual action internal mix. Here are the differences I noticed. Siphon Feed Badger 150- Pros: Good at laying down a lot of paint for priming/basecoating. You can probably pick up a used one pretty cheap. Relatively inexpensive to switch needle/head sizes. No personal experience, but I've heard Badger customer support is absolutely excellent. Cons: Much harder to clean due to the paint channel being so long and inaccessible. Requires higher air pressure which makes spraying lacquers more tricky because more retarder is needed to keep the paint from drying before it hits the model. There is a bushing in the head assembly that (according to Badger) deforms when the head is taken apart so it is recommended that it be replaced eventually if you completely disassemble it for cleaning (which you will often need to do).* The trigger assembly can be difficult to reassemble if the needle is removed. I use some blue tack to hold the trigger rocker piece in place whenever I have to remove the needle. Both of my 150s are 20-30 years old, so this may have been improved on newer versions. More wasted paint. Badger uses smaller (1/8 NPT, I think) air fittings which don't seem to be the standard in airbrushing. You'll need to get adapters for your regulator and quick connects if you use them. The accesories I've looked at seem to have fittings that work directly with Iwata (and maybe Paasche). Gravity Feed Iwata Eclipse HP CS Pros: VERY Easy to clean and works well for general painting from a dime sized spray pattern down to a fairly fine line. Those two points are the most important aspects of model airbrushing, so I'll leave it at that. Cons: I haven't checked much into it, but I think it is relatively expensive to convert it to a larger needle/tip for broad work. You can prime with a stock Eclipse, it just takes longer. Final Thoughts: I used my Badger 150 brushes for years and liked them because I didn't really know any better. In the low price range, they are a good deal, but you'd be better off saving up a little more and getting a good gravity feed brush. Since buying the Iwata Eclipse a year or two ago, I haven't used the Badger 150 a single time. I briefly considered it tonight when I had a lot of priming to do, but considered the cleanup and ended up just priming with the Iwata. I also have a Badger "Sotar 20/20" that I picked up for a little over $100 for detail work. It works very well for spraying a pencil thin line, but the Eclipse beats it out for general purpose modeling. I never use it. TLDR: Watch this video from Paul Budzik. He knows a hell of a lot more about modeling than I do. *From the Badger 150 Manual, Page 3. "NOTE: Periodically the head seal (50-055) will need to be replaced, as repetitive disassembly may cause the head seal to leak air creating a pulsating effect. If only water based paints are used, a head seal (51-099) will last an extended period of time."
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Jan 31, 2017 04:50
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Oh man. I just learned of the 1/144 Takom P1000 Landkreuzer Ratte model. It was a planned 1000 ton tank that used naval artillery for its turret. Plans were found after the war but one was never built.  That is the Ratte next to one of the two included Maus models. Note the tiny men directly above the Maus.  Here it is next to a 1/144 Panzer 1. This looks like it'd be fun to do.
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Jan 31, 2017 06:55
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I never quite understood stuff like that. Obviously it was never made because someone knew it would never work and cancelled the project, but why was it even thought up in the first place. "I know, I'll design a tank that can't move beyond a crawl, will become bogged down in anything but perfectly level compacted ground, and can't cross a single bridge anywhere in the world. Yes, this is a good use of my time."
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Jan 31, 2017 08:09
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Trying to get inside the motivations and desires of leading Nazis isn't something you should spend a lot of time doing, outside of an academic setting. Though many people are surprised just how much of it was fueled by closet homoeroticism.
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Jan 31, 2017 08:25
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Ahh, so the Ratte was the top, and the Maus was the bottom?
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Jan 31, 2017 08:31
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NTRabbit posted:Trying to get inside the motivations and desires of leading Nazis isn't something you should spend a lot of time doing, outside of an academic setting. Also meth, lots and lots of meth.
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Jan 31, 2017 08:37
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Raskolnikov38 posted:Also meth, lots and lots of meth. Also, contractor grift. Think of the dumb poo poo that gets funded in the US from time to time--pigeon-guided bombs, the Cristy flying tank, etc. Now imagine if the top levels of government were deliberately organized with confusing, ambiguous, and overlapping authority to keep anyone from being able to challenge the authority of the madman in charge, making exploiting the leader's deteriorating faculties the avenue to power and wealth. Lol, if.
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Jan 31, 2017 12:43
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Reminds me of Valkyria Chronicles, there were some huge loving tanks in that game.
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Jan 31, 2017 13:48
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"Hitler said he wanted a gigantic tank...." Or "Well, the Allies are surely almost here, war will end soon, but I don't want to go to the front. So I"ll start working on some bullshit project until I can surrender here."
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Jan 31, 2017 14:07
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I never quite understood stuff like that. Obviously it was never made because someone knew it would never work and cancelled the project, but why was it even thought up in the first place. The designer worked in the Soviet Union in the 30s and also proposed a similar disaster of a tank. He was promptly fired, but I guess he didn't learn anything from his experience. He also designed at least three medium tanks, one of which made it to the prototype stage but was too expensive to mass produce.
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Jan 31, 2017 16:13
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I got that kit for Christmas! I've had a bit of a think about it, and I think some contractor was all "so Hitler likes gigantic tanks, eh? We'll pitch him a tank so huge he'll HAVE to build it." Albert Speer was much less enamored I've also come to two other conclusions about gigantic "land cruiser" things. 1) You really need to get these things to float, you'd save sooooooo much energy if you could transport them by water. Actually, maybe just build a special transport ship that could use the engine of the Ratte? Freeze it in a Pykrete block? I don't know, having something that expensive moving so slowly and not transportable by any means is really dumb. 2) This is one vehicle that absolutely should be propelled by nuclear power. Then the enemy might hesitate blowing it up! on their soil
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Jan 31, 2017 16:20
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Nebakenezzer posted:Actually, maybe just build a special transport ship that could use the engine of the Ratte? They did sort of. They were called U-boats.  The design called for two diesel marine engines like the U-boats used, or eight of the type used in E-boats.
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Jan 31, 2017 16:40
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If he could have, Hitler would have definitely built the Death Star.
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Jan 31, 2017 16:54
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You just know that somewhere, deep in the bowels of the pentagon, is a complete analysis of weaponizing, armoring and mass producing the NASA Crawler-Transporter that they use to move rockets around. I smell a freedom of information act request a brewing! e: I'm picturing pairs of naval 5" DP guns at the corners and something like an Iowa class 16" turret (or two) mounted on top. VVVV Almost certainly faster than the Ratte at the top of the page. Murgos fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jan 31, 2017 |
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Jan 31, 2017 18:26
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- Sir, Russians have landed on the west coast! - Deploy the Weaponized Crawler. It should get there in 6 years.
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Jan 31, 2017 18:40
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Bringing freedom at 1mph.
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Jan 31, 2017 18:42
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Murgos posted:You just know that somewhere, deep in the bowels of the pentagon, is a complete analysis of weaponizing, armoring and mass producing the NASA Crawler-Transporter that they use to move rockets around. When I read the first part of the sentence I was sure it would end in the Pentagon itself being mobile. Was disappointed.
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Jan 31, 2017 19:34
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Blue Footed Booby posted:When I read the first part of the sentence I was sure it would end in the Pentagon itself being mobile. Was disappointed. Pentaplex? Metrogon?
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Jan 31, 2017 21:33
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If it's good enough for the imperium; it's good enough for America.
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Jan 31, 2017 21:42
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Revell Spitfire Mk II in 1/32. Inspired to pick this up after finishing the 109G in the same scale. Nice kit, good surface detail, not too many parts.   
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Feb 1, 2017 03:30
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Blue Footed Booby posted:When I read the first part of the sentence I was sure it would end in the Pentagon itself being mobile. Was disappointed. the pentagon posted:Ben! What's this loving bowling ball you sent me?
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Feb 1, 2017 06:15
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Does anyone make a decent IS-2 model? Zvezda? Or a good T-34/85?
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Feb 2, 2017 01:22
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Colonial Air Force posted:Does anyone make a decent IS-2 model? Zvezda? 4BO Green has precise review of IS and KV models, along with modifications needed to improve historical accuracy. The Zvezda kit is not very good, since it has vinyl tracks. I built the Dragon one and was satisfied with it, but the site has many problems with its dimensions. As for T-34-85s, the Zvezda kit is rather poor as well. I also built the Dragon one (1999 kit), but wasn't particularly impressed. The Academy T-34-85 factory #112 kit in my stash looks to be much better. You can get the AFVClub one with a full interior at the same cost though, so might as well spring for that if you have the chance.
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Feb 2, 2017 01:36
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