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I made this a few years ago. I was inspired by binge-watching Samurai Champloo. Sorry about the bad picture.
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Feb 13, 2017 15:00
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| # ? May 31, 2024 00:30 |
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If you aren't looking for an oddball drill size, and you have a plunge router, there you go. Alternately, get a smaller plunge bit and use it as a pilot for your drill. I did all my 3/4" dog holes in my last lovely benchtop that way and it worked really, really well.
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Feb 13, 2017 21:31
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Trainrides posted:I made this a few years ago. I was inspired by binge-watching Samurai Champloo. Sorry about the bad picture. What material did you use for the shade part? I have been thinking about doing something similar with some scraps.
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Feb 13, 2017 21:43
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Shoji paper?
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Feb 13, 2017 21:44
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MetaJew posted:I don't understand, nor do I own a radial arm saw, but that looks cool. Radial arm saws usually have a reverse-threaded stub on the opposite end of the shaft that the blade goes on. So you can screw a drill chuck on and do a thing like this:  You don't get a ton of up-down range, but it can handle pretty large pieces.
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Feb 13, 2017 22:03
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Is Shoji paper the same as rice paper? I got a roll of rice paper from a crafts store and used that.
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Feb 13, 2017 22:08
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I finally got my hands on a nice thick piece of walnut for a decent price and made a cutting board with it. Super pleased with how it turned out.  I wish walnut was cheaper around here. I think it's my favorite wood. The white wood is Holly, which was also really expensive. I wasted so much ripping it to thin strips on my table saw too. Probably won't do that again until I get a decent bandsaw. Safer and a lot less waste. I might make another one with maple strips instead as I have enough leftover walnut to make a 2nd. Maple yellows a lot once oil is applied, and someone in here(wormil?) recommended Holly so I could get the stark black and white contrast. It turned out great, but I'm not sure with was worth the price.
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Feb 13, 2017 22:40
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Rarely see walnut so dark and rich around here, too often it's washed out. I really like it. Yeah I use holly from a holly bush, only gets me little pieces though.
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Feb 13, 2017 22:52
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My wife wants me to make us a queen platform bed with a couple drawers underneath. I'm having a hell of a time finding plans online. There's a weirdly huge number of sites that appear to be aggregators written by someone who speaks English as a third language, just link mazes with pictures grabbed from furniture store websites. Filtering out any sites with "free plans" helped, but there's still a ton of these sites advertising plans that I just can't quite find no matter how much I click around. It's like a bizarro world of woodworking and it's caught me totally off guard. I figured there'd be a ton of actual information but nope. About the only actual resource I've found so far has been Ana White's farmhouse bed plans. Anyhow, can anyone recommend plans, point me toward a book or other good resource, or offer their own plans? I don't mind paying if I can find something that my wife and I really like. I'm also ok just doing my own plans if it comes to it. I don't do much woodworking, but I'm pretty handy at basic stuff and I've probably got all the tools I need short of a table saw (hoping to accomplish this with my Skilsaw) and a pocket jig. Not looking to make fine furniture, just simple and functional.
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Feb 13, 2017 23:28
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These might get you started: (really simple construction, no 'real' woodworking/joinery) http://woodworking.formeremortals.net/2015/05/platform-bed-with-drawers/ Or http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/how-to-make-king-size-bed/
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Feb 14, 2017 00:01
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Samopsa posted:These might get you started: (really simple construction, no 'real' woodworking/joinery) Fantastic, I'll add these to my little list. Thank you.
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Feb 14, 2017 00:12
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:My wife wants me to make us a queen platform bed with a couple drawers underneath. Here's another one, sized for a king, but should be simple enough to adjust to fit a queen. http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/how-to-make-king-size-bed/ EDIT: I read good, and post links other people have already posted.
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Feb 14, 2017 01:50
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Elder Postsman posted:Radial arm saws usually have a reverse-threaded stub on the opposite end of the shaft that the blade goes on. So you can screw a drill chuck on and do a thing like this: 
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Feb 14, 2017 03:52
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Elder Postsman posted:Radial arm saws usually have a reverse-threaded stub on the opposite end of the shaft that the blade goes on. So you can screw a drill chuck on and do a thing like this:
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Feb 14, 2017 06:03
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:My wife wants me to make us a queen platform bed with a couple drawers underneath. Fine Woodworking magazine's latest issue features full plans for a bed that I think is pretty good looking.
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Feb 14, 2017 15:31
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ilkhan posted:How do you get any up/down movement? I assume by the same method you'd normally use to adjust depth of cut -- the entire assembly moves up and down.
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Feb 14, 2017 16:46
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I assume by the same method you'd normally use to adjust depth of cut -- the entire assembly moves up and down. 
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Feb 14, 2017 16:55
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ilkhan posted:That seems like a ton of effort. It would be for more than a couple of cuts. There's usually a crank handle in front under the table. Assuming the main shaft in the back isn't rusted like mine is. I think that setup is the tiebreaker for most versatile shop tool (over the table saw)
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Feb 14, 2017 20:33
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RAS are versatile. It's too bad it takes a lot of engineering to make a really good one. I wish I had room for one, several free ones have been offered to me over the years. I passed up a nice DeWalt for $50 once.
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Feb 15, 2017 04:27
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Here's something I'm overthinking heavily: if I have my vise flush with the apron and am interested in covering my vise jaws with leather...where do I put it? Just the same area as the front moving jaws clamp onto? I imagine a very luxurious leather-coated apron but that seems crazy.
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Feb 16, 2017 00:32
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Falcon2001 posted:Here's something I'm overthinking heavily: if I have my vise flush with the apron and am interested in covering my vise jaws with leather...where do I put it? Just the same area as the front moving jaws clamp onto? I imagine a very luxurious leather-coated apron but that seems crazy. My $0.02: pressure = force/area, so if your vice is flush with the apron then the clamping force is actually spread out over the entire length of the work piece (on that side) meaning the covering is probably inherently less necessary on that side to begin with. At most you probably just need to cover the vice area itself, which would serve to pad pieces that have a narrow contact area with the clamping surfaces.
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Feb 16, 2017 00:54
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It was my understanding that the leather helps with the grip as much as/more than protecting the work piece. Edit: I actually haven't put any leather on my bench in 3+ years. I keep intending to, but I haven't had any instances where it was absolutely necessary. Things slip a bit occasionally, but I either tighten it down more, or change the direction I'm applying force. Nothing really gets marred up if I clamp it properly, either. One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Feb 16, 2017 |
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Feb 16, 2017 00:59
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Is this an appropriate place to ask for a tool recommendation?
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Feb 16, 2017 02:52
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Heck yes. Also I'll beat you to it: of all the major brand cordless systems, which one sucks the least for most basic power tools? (Drills, impact drivers, etc) Figure I should stick to one system to minimize batteries and ensure interoperability on stuff.
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Feb 16, 2017 03:03
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Falcon2001 posted:Heck yes. Milwaukee, Makita and Dewalt are all on essentially the same level right now. Get Milwaukee if you intend on getting into trades-type work (greatest diversity in tools), otherwise get whichever color you prefer. You probably want 18 volt (or "20v" if it's Dewalt) tools, but Milwaukee and Makita have very good 12v tools as well for shop-only type work (not good for home improvement) Ridgid is improving dramatically in the last year or so as well, and is marginally cheaper. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Feb 16, 2017 |
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Feb 16, 2017 03:29
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Falcon2001 posted:Heck yes. I got a pretty good deal on a Milwaukee M18 impact/drill combo pack w/2 batteries and charger maybe 5 years ago. It has never run out of battery or power for the home and car jobs I have used it for. Quite happy.
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Feb 16, 2017 04:37
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AvE had a pretty good answer to the "whats the best tool brand" question. The answer is, go to a place that rents tools, and see what brand they rent; they have to get whatever is most reliable for the best return on their investment
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Feb 16, 2017 04:40
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Milwaukee is my personal preference but dear god get brushless no matter what you get there is no reason not to.
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Feb 16, 2017 05:22
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OK. So, I've got a very garbage table saw, something rebranded by KMart that I picked up at a garage sale. I want to upgrade to a decent table saw. My requirements: -Not enormous. My garage is way too full of stuff so portable would be good except -Not unstable. Those contractor type saws seem like they'd be wobbly? I'll prefer something that sits solidly even if that means not as easy/possible to pack away -Runs on 110v 20a circuit -Accurate fence. The fence on my garbag saw doesn't hold straight which leads to kickback and other lovely behavior. I don't mind adjusting the fence, but it should be reasonably straightforward to align the fence to the blade and then have it stay that way for several cuts. -Budget of around $500 My nice-to-haves: -Can use dado blades -wide (or extendable) enough to be useful for ripping sheets. I can make a sled, but it would need to be able to support a sled I made. I can probably rig something up if this costs too much though. -Dust collection. My current solution is a miniature shop vac, and opening the garage door and running a fan, and using a respirator. -Other features I don't even know I want but you guys will tell me I want them -Cheaper than $500 would be just fine. If $350 gets me what I need, that's very good. I can spend more money on other things. OK as for usage: my wife and I do various projects. I've done more metalworking than wood, but last year I got a router (still learning it) and we recently picked up a scroll saw. I've been reading Nick Offerman's new book, and I made a nice shelf. I just want a table saw I'll feel safe using that will be versatile for a variety of woodworking projects. I have space to put the saw on a benchtop or stand if it doesn't come with one.
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Feb 16, 2017 06:37
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Leperflesh posted:-Cheaper than $500 would be just fine. If $350 gets me what I need, that's very good. I can spend more money on other things. In that price range you're looking at an older used contractor saw, US made Delta with a Biesemeyer or Unifence would be my first choice (or Powermatic if you could find one for that price). Second choice would be a used General, Jet, Grizzly, Craftsman, Ridgid, roughly in that order (there are exceptions). Don't buy anything with a crappy fence unless you get it cheap enough to afford an aftermarket fence. Bare minimum that meets your requirements would be the Delta sold by Lowes for $600. The thing to keep in mind is that any tablesaw under about $900 is going to be a compromise.
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Feb 16, 2017 08:02
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Falcon2001 posted:Heck yes. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-3-Speed-1-4-in-Impact-Driver-Tool-Only-P237/206588778 It worked great but the most awesome and handy thing it had was a magnet on the base so you could keep a few screws right there on hand on a ladder. Unfortunately I don't know what their other tools are like as far as quality goes.
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Feb 16, 2017 14:33
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Curious, does any company besides Lee Valley make a modern equivalent to the Stanley 45?
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Feb 16, 2017 14:42
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Curious, does any company besides Lee Valley make a modern equivalent to the Stanley 45? No. But the good news is the veritas small plow is a fantastic plane.
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Feb 16, 2017 17:00
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GEMorris posted:No. But the good news is the veritas small plow is a fantastic plane. Really wish I'd sprung for this one instead of piecing together a complete Record 45 from like 6 different ebay planes
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Feb 16, 2017 17:05
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wormil posted:In that price range you're looking at an older used contractor saw, US made Delta with a Biesemeyer or Unifence would be my first choice (or Powermatic if you could find one for that price). Second choice would be a used General, Jet, Grizzly, Craftsman, Ridgid, roughly in that order (there are exceptions). Don't buy anything with a crappy fence unless you get it cheap enough to afford an aftermarket fence. Bare minimum that meets your requirements would be the Delta sold by Lowes for $600. The thing to keep in mind is that any tablesaw under about $900 is going to be a compromise.  but Craigslist used. Get an insanely good price on a Delta or Grizzly off CL. And a quality fence is as important as the rest of the saw.
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Feb 16, 2017 17:10
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wormil posted:In that price range you're looking at an older used contractor saw, US made Delta with a Biesemeyer or Unifence would be my first choice (or Powermatic if you could find one for that price). Second choice would be a used General, Jet, Grizzly, Craftsman, Ridgid, roughly in that order (there are exceptions). Don't buy anything with a crappy fence unless you get it cheap enough to afford an aftermarket fence. Bare minimum that meets your requirements would be the Delta sold by Lowes for $600. The thing to keep in mind is that any tablesaw under about $900 is going to be a compromise. So, something like one of these? https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/6001369267.html https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/5977188302.html https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tls/6005639787.html Or dang this ridgid is $150 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tls/6005461073.html This seems awesome https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/5994451161.html but possibly too big. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Feb 16, 2017 |
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Feb 16, 2017 17:53
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I feel like showing off my progress again. Cut, routed, sanded, stained, and first coat of poly.  The natural oak are for shelves for my GF's. The rest is for a headboard, and trim for the nightstands I built a couple weeks ago.
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Feb 16, 2017 19:47
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Leperflesh posted:So, something like one of these? I would go for the last one but $700 is high. If this were 2003 he would be spot on. If he would do $550 for all of it, you should jump on it. Then ditch the sheet metal left wing and replace it with a router table/wing. To me, the Powermatic is worth $350 tops because I think that's an older fence and I don't know how good it is, but that's in east coast dollars. The $400 Delta is higher than I'd like. In east coast dollars it's a $150 saw (bit rusty) with a $150-200 fence. The $250 Delta has a $150-200 fence, I think that's an actual Biesemeyer from the 90's, instead of the Delta clone that came later. The saw looks like an older 1.5hp US made version, if it is, I would be all over this like white on rice. If nothing else, I would buy it for the fence.
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Feb 16, 2017 20:53
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Leperflesh posted:OK. So, I've got a very garbage table saw, something rebranded by KMart that I picked up at a garage sale. I want to upgrade to a decent table saw. I've been very happy with my $600 Lowe's Delta. I know its a lot of cash to drop on on thing, and I could have eventually found a good craigslist deal, but the peace of mind and warm fuzzies I get from a brand new, quality machine was worth the extra cash for me, even if I don't get to use it as much as I wish I could (stupid job  )
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Feb 17, 2017 04:03
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I finally finished up my bookshelf and dresser. Building two pieces of furniture at once definitely put my shop at capacity. The primary wood for both is butternut, drawer fronts on the shelf are walnut with cherry pulls. I've built enough drawers for a while, working on a staked stool and a couple of other staked pieces next.
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Feb 17, 2017 14:46
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