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That's where all the extra wash went and I can't seem to reach it with a cotton swab. That area will be painted over anyway once I do the clothing.
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Feb 16, 2017 03:29
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You should get some of those micro brushes they sell in hobby stores. Perfect for getting into tiny little crevices. They sort of look like little inter-dental brushes. But buy from eBay. Hobby stores will charge you $4 for 5 of them. You can get them from China on eBay for something like $10 for 500 of them. I'll try and get a link up when I get home, if you haven't found them by then. EDIT: These were the three sizes of brushes I bought. $3cad for 100, free shipping. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100PC-Dental-Disposable-Micro-Brush-Tooth-Materials-Micro-Applicators-Small-Swab-/381654389116?hash=item58dc5fd17c http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100PCS-Dental-Micro-Brush-Disposable-Dental-Materials-Tooth-Applicators-Medium-/381655542700?hash=item58dc716bac http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100PCS-Dental-Disposable-Micro-Brush-Tooth-Materials-Micro-Applicators-Large-New-/361577938261?hash=item542fb97d55 
Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Feb 16, 2017 |
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Feb 16, 2017 04:37
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Can also get them from Amazon pretty cheap - 400 for just over $10 and Prime shipping eligible. https://smile.amazon.com/Dental-Dis...l+micro+brushes
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Feb 16, 2017 14:19
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:You should get some of those micro brushes they sell in hobby stores. Perfect for getting into tiny little crevices. They sort of look like little inter-dental brushes. Are the shafts made of plastic or pressed cardboard? I'm needing something to replace the braces on the turdplane.
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Feb 16, 2017 17:25
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Plastic, but I can't really say the exact diameter of them. You'd probably have better luck getting some Plastruct or Evergreen rod in the correct diameter.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:01
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Anyone have any experience with Vallejo's newish metallizers? I'm trying to decide between their and Alcad's jet exhaust color for my F-14. I did end up getting Vallejo's pack of 70's-modern Navy colors as I really didn't want to have to decant Tamiya's sprays. I can pretty closely match the Chrome Yellow (TS-47) and light gun metal (TS-42) with Tamiya and Vallejo bottles.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:11
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I know some of YOU NERDS have been looking forward to this: Zvezda's 1/2700 scale Star Destroyer
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Feb 17, 2017 00:43
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Mr E posted:Anyone have any experience with Vallejo's newish metallizers? I'm trying to decide between their and Alcad's jet exhaust color for my F-14. I did end up getting Vallejo's pack of 70's-modern Navy colors as I really didn't want to have to decant Tamiya's sprays. I can pretty closely match the Chrome Yellow (TS-47) and light gun metal (TS-42) with Tamiya and Vallejo bottles. The new Vallejo metalizers are supposed to be quite good. Not as good as a lacquer metal, but still quite good. If you're airbrushing, AK's Extreme Metal range, and the new MRP/MR.Paints metallics are the best of the best. Go down smooth, lots of shine, and are rock hard once dry. After that are probably the Gunze Metallics. They airbrush beautifully, and they are the best metallics for brush painting. After that is Alclad; great result, but a weak finish that will be leaving metal color all over your hands if you handle the model. Really needs a sealer. After that is just about any other metallic; they get the job done, but are otherwise unremarkable. Flory did two reviews on the Vallejo and AK range: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbnCdM-Rd3Y https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKtJ2sx3VJY
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Feb 17, 2017 03:11
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Nebakenezzer posted:I know some of YOU NERDS have been looking forward to this:     There's even a shield generator detail kit on shapeways.
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Feb 17, 2017 04:26
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Revell Germany are doing a rebox in April I think if you don't want to play roulette ordering from Russia on ebay.
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Feb 17, 2017 10:01
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Hwat go wrong with order glorious Ster Destrojer from Russia? They efen guarantee packish hwon't be engulf in flam, hor acide, during chipment.
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Feb 17, 2017 10:09
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Hwat go wrong with order glorious Ster Destrojer from Russia? They efen guarantee packish hwon't be engulf in flam, hor acide, during chipment. You find drug conceal in box? Is bonus! Enjoy with compliment, comrade!
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Feb 17, 2017 10:14
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I cannot even imagine what it would be like for me trying to brushpaint that thing. It sure looks impressive though.
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Feb 17, 2017 11:43
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Nebakenezzer posted:I know some of YOU NERDS have been looking forward to this: This with interior lighting would look rad
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Feb 17, 2017 12:07
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Finished the first planking on the upper part of the hull of the Soleil Royal Also made some bitts and nail banks   And the F14 has a front leg now https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1IJ-ZyucvM
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Feb 17, 2017 14:17
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:The new Vallejo metalizers are supposed to be quite good. Not as good as a lacquer metal, but still quite good. If you're airbrushing, AK's Extreme Metal range, and the new MRP/MR.Paints metallics are the best of the best. Go down smooth, lots of shine, and are rock hard once dry. After that are probably the Gunze Metallics. They airbrush beautifully, and they are the best metallics for brush painting. After that is Alclad; great result, but a weak finish that will be leaving metal color all over your hands if you handle the model. Really needs a sealer. After that is just about any other metallic; they get the job done, but are otherwise unremarkable. I'll probably check out AK's range then. I haven't used lacquers or enamels before but since I'm able to vent much more out of my space now I may start trying out Mr. Color and such.
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Feb 17, 2017 15:20
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Smoke posted:I cannot even imagine what it would be like for me trying to brushpaint that thing. It sure looks impressive though. I tried to brush paint a Karl Gerat, gave up, and bought a spray can of more or less the right colour. I imagine this is even bigger.
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Feb 17, 2017 15:31
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I use Vallejo metal colors and they've got a really nice finish so long as you spray the mandatory gloss black base coat well. The only thing they won't do well is a mirror chrome finish- for that, you pretty much have to use Alclad or AK. Vallejo has the advantage of not having any fumes and being way easier to control (and more durable than Alclad) but you naturally have to sacrifice some shine.
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Feb 17, 2017 16:50
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When I was a kid one of the only actual model kits I ever put together was the old star destroyer kit and I loving loved it, it was like my favourite toy and I'd always play with it until I eventually broke it. This new one is just too big, if it was the same-ish size but but just better detailed I'd consider it but just don't have the space for such a big model 
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Feb 17, 2017 17:29
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Is this the only place to buy MRP in the USA? I'd like to try out their stuff after Flory going on and on about them, especially their metallizers. Are their metal paints maskable just fine? I wouldn't be masking on the F-14 but may be doing a full metal plane soon and would rather use lacquer for a large project. I may use Vallejo for now since I'm just painting the exhausts and tail/wing edges for the Jolly Roger paint scheme.
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Feb 17, 2017 17:54
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Mr E posted:Is this the only place to buy MRP in the USA? I'd like to try out their stuff after Flory going on and on about them, especially their metallizers. Are their metal paints maskable just fine? I wouldn't be masking on the F-14 but may be doing a full metal plane soon and would rather use lacquer for a large project. I may use Vallejo for now since I'm just painting the exhausts and tail/wing edges for the Jolly Roger paint scheme. Yeah, MRP are fairly new and haven't made huge inroads into North America yet, so Hobbyworld is one of the few carrying them. Everyones been raving about them though, so give it a year and hopefully they'll be everywhere. Masking should be completely fine, as Flory mentioned they're probably one of the toughest metallics once dry, and don't have any issues with masking tape.
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Feb 17, 2017 21:18
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Greyhawk posted:Finished the first planking on the upper part of the hull of the Soleil Royal You are just chugging along on your models, reminding me I need to get back to work. I actually did do some shop stuff last night. I bought a new band saw so to test it I sliced off a sheet of boxwood from the big chunk I have (3" x 8" x 23.5"), used the thickness sander to get the sheet to a nice smooth 3/16" thick and then used the table saw to rip the sheet into 1/32" x 3/16" planks to replace the planking on the pinnace kit that I haven't started yet. So I have now officially milled my own planks for the first time.
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Feb 17, 2017 21:30
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Paragon8 posted:Revell Germany are doing a rebox in April I think if you don't want to play roulette ordering from Russia on ebay. TBH Zvezda are pretty widely distributed. You'll likely get hold of this relatively easily.
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Feb 17, 2017 22:11
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Arquinsiel posted:TBH Zvezda are pretty widely distributed. You'll likely get hold of this relatively easily. I think the vagaries of Star Wars licensing is more of an issue than Zvezda's distribution.
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Feb 17, 2017 22:53
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Ensign Expendable posted:I tried to brush paint a Karl Gerat, gave up, and bought a spray can of more or less the right colour. I imagine this is even bigger. Now that I'm not at work I've been able to take a better look at this. It looks like it's a bit over 55cm long. I've done stuff close to that length before(Revell 1/720 Nimitz, Revell 1/144 Airbus A350-900) and I've got an Italeri 1/72 C-130E Hercules in the stash but those are comparatively free of surface greebles and are nowhere near as wide. Along with that I have no idea where I'd put it.
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Feb 18, 2017 00:41
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Hang it from the ceiling.
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Feb 18, 2017 00:47
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I am strongly considering getting the Revell re-release of their Venator class Star Destroyer. Because it's got colours that aren't white/grey on it.
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Feb 18, 2017 00:48
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My wife got me this for Valentine's Day: Love is a 1966 Batmobile. It's going to be my first car kit (I normally build giant robots), but it looks like it won't be *too* bad. Quite a few more sprues than I was expecting for a car, and an absolute ton of decals.
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Feb 18, 2017 03:18
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I'm about to work on my first tracked vehicle in 30 years - the Tamiya 1:35 M2 Bradley. Are there any accessory kits that would be highly recommended?
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Feb 18, 2017 14:33
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The Locator posted:So I have now officially milled my own planks for the first time. That's pretty drat cool
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Feb 18, 2017 14:53
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SkunkDuster posted:I'm about to work on my first tracked vehicle in 30 years - the Tamiya 1:35 M2 Bradley. Are there any accessory kits that would be highly recommended? Scalemates is your friend for this sort of thing. Search for your kit, and you can find most of the accessory sets that have come out for it. https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION%5B%5D=All&q=M2+Bradley After a quick glance, Eduard makes a nice "Big ED" set that includes interior and exterior photoetch, turrent interior etch, and a set of wheel masks. It's discontinued, since the Tamiya kit is quite old at this point, but you can usually find someone the internet carrying older pieces. And if you don't want all of those sets, they sell the individual photoetch sets as well. https://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/M-2-1-35.html?cur=2&listtype=search&searchparam=BIG3509 There's a few stowage sets out there too, if you want the vehicles to have that well used and weighted down look.
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Feb 18, 2017 15:17
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So, I was up north and figured I'd check out a shop despite Google reviews saying the guy is overtly racist. He's got a good Woodland Scenics selection, and carries a lot of Vallejo and Tamiya acrylic paints, so a good source for me. I picked up a cheap model ($5) to practice on. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/604790-arii-a704-cessna-t337 I guess it has all the parts, but someone attacked it with a sharpie on the edges.
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Feb 18, 2017 22:23
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More work in progress. This is the almost finished Aires cockpit in the Italeri A-10C. The Italeri kit is a real disappointment. Details are really soft and panel lines does not align between fuselage halves. Half of the rivets are raised and gets sanded off when filling the horrible, horrible gaps. The ejection seat sticks up too far to close the canopy and the overall fit and molding is not very good. But after all the research I've done this still seems to be the best A-10 in 1:48. This was going to be a super build with all the PE and resin, but now I just want to slap it together so I can start on something else.  Any thoughts on the Hobby Boss A-6 intruder in 1:48? Flory models seems to think it's a scaled down version of the Trumpeter 1:32 version and that seems to be an amazing kit.
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Feb 18, 2017 23:40
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Greyhawk posted:That's pretty drat cool I think it is! I haven't posted any pictures for a very long time (because I haven't done anything really), so here's a quick pictorial of making planks at home! Step 1, take your large piece of wood (in this case, Castello Boxwood) and use a bandsaw to resaw a thin slice off. My goal for these planks is 3/16" x 1/32", so I want to slice off a piece slightly thicker than 3/16" so that I can sand it down to final size.  If everything goes well, you end up with a 3" wide x 24" (about) sheet of wood that is slightly thicker than 3/16". Shown with a bottle of Vallejo paint for size reference. If you are making a bunch of planks the same thickness, re-saw multiple sheets.  Step 2, take the sheet and feed it through the thickness sander, alternating sides and taking just a slight bit off with each pass until the sheet is as close as possible to 3/16" thick.  Step 3, feed the now finished to thickness sheet into the table saw (I am using a .030" kerf 70tpi blade) to slice off an individual plank. Repeat until the sheet is gone. Note that I cut the sheet down to 14" prior to this so the strips would be easier to deal with on the table saw, since 14" is the maximum plank length I need for the project these are for. This leaves me with a 9" sheet that I can use for whatever I need in the future.  End result. Planks!  These are slightly thick, at 5/128" instead of 1/32", so if I want to I can run them through the thickness sander for final finish and thickness. I'll probably skip this step and sand them after they are on the hull to remove the shine from the saw blade. Edit: Side note - Using cheap wood to get all the settings right on the machines before cutting is pretty important. That big chunk of Castello Boxwood cost over $93.00 before shipping. It should go a long ways, as I will be able to get a lot of small ships worth of wood out of it, but it's definitely not something you want to be doing test cuts on. 
The Locator fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Feb 19, 2017 |
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Feb 19, 2017 01:29
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Those thin strips off the table saw. :o I have no idea how you didn't get chipping and a torn up sheet. e: I guess 70 TPI probably helps a lot.
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Feb 19, 2017 02:25
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Mr. Powers posted:Those thin strips off the table saw. :o I lied. It's a 90 tooth blade at 10 TPI. The .040 kerf blade is 70 tooth at 8 TPI. Both work fine for this work, but obviously the smaller kerf means less wood loss. Here is the page from the blade manufacturer showing the specs. http://www.thurstonmfg.com/cut-off-saws.html I was using an I-292 and also have I-293 blades for thicker pieces. The blades are $17.00 each, so hopefully they don't get dull too fast. I ran into three issues really - kickback, binding as the piece moved past the blade, and the table trying to eat the finished plank and sucking it inside the saw. To correct these things I will do two things - first a zero clearance insert. I already have one I was just stupid and didn't install it before ripping these planks. This will address the planks trying to go down into the saw as it eliminates the gap between the blade and the table. For the binding, I will be adding a piece to the fence that ends just past the point on the blade where the wood gets completely cut. This is a common thing that guys do with these saws to avoid the binding. Eliminating the binding will greatly reduce any kickback, but that's something that's alway possible with a table saw. The pieces are so small that kickback isn't a huge issue, as the pieces are so light they just fly off onto the shop floor where I pick them later. They have very little energy and I stand off to the side so they can't hit me.
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Feb 19, 2017 03:05
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Does the saw have a riving knife? That would help with kickback and flying pieces, especially when combined with your fence mod. Is boxwood just like a super hard wood?
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Feb 19, 2017 03:27
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Mr. Powers posted:Does the saw have a riving knife? That would help with kickback and flying pieces, especially when combined with your fence mod. No, there is no riving knife. For the very small work I use the saw for, everything I've read from a guy who has cut huge amounts of strips with this saw (as in a guy who made his living for years selling planks for the model ship hobby, and has cut literally millions of strips with this saw) says that it really isn't something he likes on the saw for this use. As I said the kickback is really low velocity and I think by getting rid of the binding on the fence beyond the midpoint of the blade I will eliminate most of it. Boxwood is a hardwood with a very fine grain, and it mills extremely well and holds a great sharp edge which is why it's used for ship modelling a lot. Large grain wood is bad because of the scale. Pear is another good wood for modeling but it has a pinker color. Holly is great for a very white wood, as the grain is pretty much invisible, but it's even more expensive than boxwood and it's very difficult to find in large pieces anymore. You can see some good pictures of the sort of pieces that Boxwood is available in here where I bought my big chunk from - https://www.gilmerwood.com/categories/38-boards-and-blanks/products?utf8=%E2%9C%93&filter=Boxwood&category=
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Feb 19, 2017 03:43
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Two more practice faces, an ICM senior officer and Zvezda tank rider. The ICM figure has much better facial details, but I think I did okay on all of them. The fourth figure from my first batch, the Trumpeter artilleryman, turned out pretty terribly in part due to the very shallow facial features on the figure. 
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Feb 19, 2017 18:36
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Finished the tender for the metal steam engine. Now on to the presentation base board.
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Feb 20, 2017 16:49
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