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I know MegaHouse makes a prebuilt "figure" of the Isaribi from IBO, but has anyone released an actual scale kit of the ship yet?
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Mar 27, 2017 21:11
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Guy Goodbody posted:I hope this thing sells very well and human-faced petit'gguys become Bandai's answer to Nendoroids cuter than it sounded in text form
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Mar 27, 2017 21:13
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That Gobbo posted:Picked up a MG Hi Zack for 22 USD because why the hell not at that price. good. We can suffer together as we sand the million tube pieces.
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Mar 27, 2017 23:07
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The Muffinlord posted:I know MegaHouse makes a prebuilt "figure" of the Isaribi from IBO, but has anyone released an actual scale kit of the ship yet? Bandai Hobby is decisively out of the ships business, unless you're talking Yamato. I don't think there's been a pla kit of a Gundam ship in over ten years, and the line they were part of is very much dead.
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Mar 27, 2017 23:10
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Bimmi posted:Bandai Hobby is decisively out of the ships business, unless you're talking Yamato. I don't think there's been a pla kit of a Gundam ship in over ten years, and the line they were part of is very much dead. Boo. The IBO ship designs are so cool.
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Mar 27, 2017 23:20
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There's a lot of Gundam battleships I love, but there's no way in hell they'd ever make them to the scale that I'd be happy with. I mean, I'd love a 1/100 scale Albion but I need a bedroom. Still though, if they'd make something that was say about the size of a PG with good color separation and minimal stickers, I'd buy like three. Of just the Albion.
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Mar 28, 2017 01:16
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:There's a lot of Gundam battleships I love, but there's no way in hell they'd ever make them to the scale that I'd be happy with. I've seen a work in progress scratch build 1/100 Salamis. It is large.
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Mar 28, 2017 02:14
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Due to lovely weather I have not been able to use my airbrush outside. If i move my desk next to my window and open it will I be fine inside or will I die of black lung? I'm strictly using Vallejo acrylics.
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Mar 29, 2017 20:33
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You (probably) won't die but it's a really bad idea, assuming you have a mask to wear.
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Mar 29, 2017 20:50
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Never use spray paint or airbrushes indoors without extensive ventilation or protection. It's a terrible idea in general, but if you are absolutely forced to do it, have a clear line to fresh air at all times, and limit how much room the fumes have to move in by building a station out of a cardboard box (with a tube to fresh air) so you can vent the fumes outside.
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Mar 29, 2017 21:14
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Oh well, waiting won't be a problem. I might invest in one of those $100 spray booths on amazon anyway, it's about to get 100+ degrees outside in a couple of months.
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Mar 29, 2017 21:17
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Rattlecans are way worse because they have chemical propellants but inhaling acrylics isn't a good time. Buy that box.
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Mar 29, 2017 21:27
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yeah, acrylics don't give off any lung-dissolving fumes, but you generally don't want to breathe in any solid particles of anything, since it can irritate the lungs at best, and clog them/cause cancerous growths at worst.
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Mar 29, 2017 21:49
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I have one of those 100ish dollar Amazon spraybooths with a Master sticker on it and the LED lights, and it does a fantastic job at hoovering away fumes even when I'm hosing on enamels. It is a bit noisy, but it's way better than having my room overrun with vaporized mineral spirits and rubbing alcohol.
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Mar 29, 2017 22:13
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Bimmi posted:Oh, mama, at'sa spicy meatball! Basically the shoulder is 60 percent liquid cement and none of the frame covers are on.
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Mar 29, 2017 23:18
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Five month check in. Any news of a G-Reco MG, or a HG Kapool?
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Mar 30, 2017 00:27
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everythingWasBees posted:Five month check in. Nope and nope.
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Mar 30, 2017 00:49
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My pie-in-the-sky dream is for an HG Kapool or a reissue of the NG Kapool, so that I can finally try to make a Kapool that transforms into/hides as a Ball.
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Mar 30, 2017 00:54
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You could modify a Lego bionicle toy and call it a Kapool
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Mar 30, 2017 01:05
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IronCastKnight posted:I have one of those 100ish dollar Amazon spraybooths with a Master sticker on it and the LED lights, and it does a fantastic job at hoovering away fumes even when I'm hosing on enamels. It is a bit noisy, but it's way better than having my room overrun with vaporized mineral spirits and rubbing alcohol. This one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2TESUQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If so I just ordered it.
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Mar 30, 2017 02:46
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screech on the beach posted:This one? That's a good airbrush spray booth. Mine is running around 3 years strong come August. It has no lights, but Harbor Freight sells cheapo LED light strips. Get one, drill a couple of screws with nuts through the top of the booth, and boom, LED strip in the booth. Meanwhile it took me forever to realize that if enamel pin washes just don't work on raised/corner/joint surfaces as well as they do for engraved details, I should just buy the goddamn Gundam panel lining markers and oh man Before:  After: 
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Mar 30, 2017 03:14
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TARDISman posted:Basically the shoulder is 60 percent liquid cement and none of the frame covers are on. Sorry to hear it. For a kit costing that much to have such a crippling and widespread flaw is definitely not cool.
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Mar 30, 2017 10:08
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MJP posted:That's a good airbrush spray booth. Mine is running around 3 years strong come August. I'm glad I'm not the only one whose had the problem with washes and raised surfaces.
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Mar 30, 2017 18:31
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Monaghan posted:I'm glad I'm not the only one whose had the problem with washes and raised surfaces. I always thought something was just wrong with what I was doing - my mix was off, too thick or thin, or my method was wrong. Capillary action into details never failed, but onto these almost always did. You are not alone, comrade
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Mar 30, 2017 19:48
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Are you guys letting gravity do the work? As in, dabbing the top of the raised element (with the raised element going downwards) and tilting it so that the fluid doesn't try to spread away?
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Mar 30, 2017 19:55
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I'm getting the urge to paint my PG Zeta. I'm roughly 100% certain that if I disassemble it I'm going to murder at least a third of the screws, though. Does anyone know where I can source replacements? Would a local hardware store be my best bet, despite their tiny size? Would a hobby shop have screws?
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Mar 30, 2017 20:16
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The Muffinlord posted:I'm getting the urge to paint my PG Zeta. I'm roughly 100% certain that if I disassemble it I'm going to murder at least a third of the screws, though. Does anyone know where I can source replacements? Would a local hardware store be my best bet, despite their tiny size? Would a hobby shop have screws? Probably best to see if they have any similar at this watch repair places that are in the middle of shopping malls. Or something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Screw-Assortment-Eyeglasses-Jewelry-Repair/dp/B005UOTWSW
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Mar 30, 2017 21:41
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I'm going to be airbrushing two different coats of paint on a piece, are Vallejo acrylics durable enough to use masking tape directly or am I going to want to topcoat in between layers?
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Mar 31, 2017 05:20
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That Gobbo posted:I'm going to be airbrushing two different coats of paint on a piece, are Vallejo acrylics durable enough to use masking tape directly or am I going to want to topcoat in between layers? If you use a low-tack tape like Tamiya, then Vallejo will be plenty durable assuming you've primed the part first and have waited more than about 30 minutes. The only place Vallejo won't survive is friction joints, but that goes for practically any paint.
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Mar 31, 2017 07:59
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The Muffinlord posted:I'm getting the urge to paint my PG Zeta. I'm roughly 100% certain that if I disassemble it I'm going to murder at least a third of the screws, though. Does anyone know where I can source replacements? Would a local hardware store be my best bet, despite their tiny size? Would a hobby shop have screws? I would invest in a good screwdriver bit set and solve the underlying problem instead, none of them should strip if you're using a quality correct sized bit and pushing down firmly. A hobby shop would likely have most of the correct sizes if they have a good selection of RC car parts, but they'll end up being just as expensive as a good set of bits. You can find them much cheaper online from a fastener site (~5c ea.) but you'll need to know the thread pitch, which I don't think the manual tells you.
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Mar 31, 2017 08:40
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Yeah if the driver bit wobbles in place, don't force it. Make sure it's snug and doesn't have any lateral movement and with a little bit of pressure it should come right out.
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Mar 31, 2017 09:25
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Xy Hapu posted:I would invest in a good screwdriver bit set and solve the underlying problem instead, none of them should strip if you're using a quality correct sized bit and pushing down firmly. A hobby shop would likely have most of the correct sizes if they have a good selection of RC car parts, but they'll end up being just as expensive as a good set of bits. You can find them much cheaper online from a fastener site (~5c ea.) but you'll need to know the thread pitch, which I don't think the manual tells you. I have like a thousand screwdrivers, they're lovely cheap screws being driven into mostly unthreaded plastic. In every single kit I've built that's had them, they've been a point of failure. There's a good reason Bandai moved away from using them on MGs, after all.
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Mar 31, 2017 12:43
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That Gobbo posted:I'm going to be airbrushing two different coats of paint on a piece, are Vallejo acrylics durable enough to use masking tape directly or am I going to want to topcoat in between layers? You're going to want to definitely prime and wait at least overnight after applying the acrylics. Even then, it's a good idea to stick the masking tape onto a natural fiber garment - no polyester - or your forehead to de-tack it a little bit. I've had issues with even fully cured Vallejo coming up if I use fully sticky Tamiya tape. Stick it to your jeans or a cotton shirt just to be safe. It'll still be sticky enough to hold but not sticky enough to peel. No need to topcoat between layers. You can if you want, but do let it fully cure as well before taping. Meanwhile I stumbled across an HGAG Zeydra that I had sitting around in a shipping box in my basement. I have no idea how it got there. Probably for a kitbash I abandoned. It's brand new. Anyone wanna trade for it? We can take it to SA-Mart to make it official if you want, but I'm fairly open. I'd love an HG Zeta/Delta derivative, or ReZel, Jesta, or other interesting grunt.
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Mar 31, 2017 13:35
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Lots of "hilarious" Gunpla announcements popping up ATM, so if you see something that sounds too good to be true in the next 24 hours, it is. (when I assume my rightful place as Total Dictator of Everything, observing April Fool's Day is going to be a hanging offense)
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Apr 1, 2017 03:45
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For what it's worth in real news, it appears a store near me got some MG Doms in so there may be a production run happening.
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Apr 1, 2017 03:48
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Bimmi posted:Lots of "hilarious" Gunpla announcements popping up ATM, so if you see something that sounds too good to be true in the next 24 hours, it is. I don't know, the P-Bandai 1/1 Ultraman figure announcement was pretty funny.
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Apr 1, 2017 04:28
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I'm going to try my second attempt at topcoating tomorrow since the weather is going to be nice and there will be low humidity. I've got a couple questions so I don't ruin a perfectly fine MG. I've got a can of Testor's Dullcote and Mr. Topcoat. I've read Mr. Topcoat has enough in it "for about one MG" and Testors is should look good "after one coat". So, when we talk about a coat on a model, is that something I am going to eyeball, or is this measured in how many times I work over the model with a spray? For my last attempt I did two passes of coverage and the end result was a barely noticeable change - so much that I had to get in close to see the matte. Also between coats of this stuff is what, 1-2 hours? Practice makes perfect, which is what I hoped to accomplish with my first run, but the results were so subtle it's making me think I didn't apply enough.
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Apr 1, 2017 06:32
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Yeah, you pretty much have to just eyeball it, 'one coat' is pretty much a meaningless term for our purposes. The amount of paint a spray can puts out and the spray pattern will vary from brand to brand and change depending on how full it is, and even if that was consistent you still have stuff like how fast your pass is, humidity, even the way air flows over the model you're coating. I recommend having an uncoated reference piece on hand (piece of runner or something) so you can compare it to your model as you paint. Technically you can do another coat of Dullcote anytime as long as you don't put too much that it runs, I usually waited 15 minutes or so between passes though, I didn't want the solvents building up too much. Though a 'pass' in my case was to spray once across every flat surface of the model (side of leg, front of leg, bottom of leg, inside of leg, etc etc), so your mileage may vary if you're just generally spraying the whole thing. I did fast passes with Testors since the spray is really fine and powerful, nowadays I use Krylon acrylic in normal sized cans and have had to slow it down a bit, but I prefer the more gradual buildup.
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Apr 1, 2017 09:53
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I built my first robot last night, send help. Or robots shaped like animals or wearing skirts. Or canadian-dollar shops. 
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Apr 1, 2017 20:13
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neongrey posted:I built my first robot last night, send help. Or robots shaped like animals or wearing skirts. Or canadian-dollar shops. Hey buddy. You know about Nyanboard? 
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Apr 1, 2017 20:50
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