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So uh, what precautions should one take when reconnecting a steering column (and thus, airbag), beyond disconnecting the battery?
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Mar 31, 2017 04:13
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Mark it's location on the coupler to the shaft. You do not want it to move at all. Or as little as possible cause you won't know where zero is on the clock spring.
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Mar 31, 2017 04:40
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:So uh, what precautions should one take when reconnecting a steering column (and thus, airbag), beyond disconnecting the battery? Don't break the little plastic connectors. 
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Mar 31, 2017 05:00
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Little late for not breaking anything plastic, but it was a retaining clip for the retaining clip for the airbag connector. It went flying somewhere when I pulled the connector off. It's not coming unplugged, it has a clip of its own... it seemed like a backup clip for the clip? Car is back together, managed to even get the steering wheel pretty well centered. The column was locked when removed, so it couldn't get terribly far off.
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Mar 31, 2017 05:47
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Godholio posted:Don't break the little plastic connectors. Fffffuuuuuuu
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Mar 31, 2017 09:10
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Breakfast Feud posted:Chemtrails are real after all! Yeah but theyre left by piston‐engined planes (except for a handful of diesel‐cycle planes that use jet fuel), not the jets that every conspiracy theorist suspects.
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Mar 31, 2017 21:34
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Little late for not breaking anything plastic, but it was a retaining clip for the retaining clip for the airbag connector. It went flying somewhere when I pulled the connector off. It's not coming unplugged, it has a clip of its own... it seemed like a backup clip for the clip? Good job your alive. Go get an alignment.
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Apr 1, 2017 05:26
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Drove it 60 miles today. I got really lucky and the wheel seems to be centered perfectly.
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Apr 1, 2017 06:13
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Platystemon posted:Yeah but theyre left by piston‐engined planes (except for a handful of diesel‐cycle planes that use jet fuel), not the jets that every conspiracy theorist suspects. Are aluminum foil, vinegar or crystals effective defense against tetraethyl lead? Stupid Question: I've got a rusty bolt on the bottom of boat that I need to remove. I want to start hitting it with penetrant before I try to remove it, but the challenge is that it's upside down, recessed slightly in a bronze casting. The boat is on a trailer in my buddy's yard, so I can't just go out back and hit it with PB Blaster every day or so. My stupid idea right now is to try and soak a cotton ball in PB or acetone-ATF and tape it up in the bolt recess, but I expect that would just fall off two minutes after I walk away. Anyone got suggestions?
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Apr 1, 2017 17:58
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Boys who love boys
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monsterzero posted:Are aluminum foil, vinegar or crystals effective defense against tetraethyl lead? Bluetac / Plasticine? Make a little bowl around it and squirt the penetrant through a hole, then seal it.
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Apr 1, 2017 18:01
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Is the bolt ferrous? Apply a strong magnet over the patch with the solvent.
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Apr 1, 2017 18:09
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monsterzero posted:Are aluminum foil, vinegar or crystals effective defense against tetraethyl lead? AVE has the answer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqZYgReuywM
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Apr 1, 2017 18:51
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spog posted:Bluetac / Plasticine? LingcodKilla posted:Is the bolt ferrous? Apply a strong magnet over the patch with the solvent. Hey, I like it. I'll see if I can combine these and use some cotton as a wick and keep it in place with a magnet. Edit: AvE's trick is rad, but I'm doing everything I can to prevent snapping the bolt. If that happens, it would make a broken exhaust stud look like a piece of cake. We're talking 5-minute job to lifting a boat and dropping the keel which will require some carpentry and interesting jacking. monsterzero fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Apr 1, 2017 |
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Apr 1, 2017 19:08
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fair enough. would def go with atf/acetone if wicking is needed. that poo poo wicks itself out of the bottle you keep it in.
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Apr 1, 2017 19:35
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I've bought a new car and want to outfit it properly. I have castoffs from my old beater, but having a proper emergency kit, tools, and car care stuff is important to me. Anything that could be kept contained in the hatchback without being too obtrusive would be nice. Anything you guys would recommend generally? I don't want to buy crap from Canadian Tire.
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Apr 1, 2017 19:49
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Kafka Esq. posted:I've bought a new car and want to outfit it properly. I have castoffs from my old beater, but having a proper emergency kit, tools, and car care stuff is important to me. Anything that could be kept contained in the hatchback without being too obtrusive would be nice. Anything you guys would recommend generally? I don't want to buy crap from Canadian Tire. Define 'emergency' For some posters, it is surviving a blizzard for 4 days, or others, it is surviving being away from a Starbucks for 4 hours.
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Apr 1, 2017 20:02
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spog posted:surviving being away from a Starbucks for 4 hours. Suggestions on that kit please. Seems to be a good supplemental to what I've already got. Are there 12v coffee makers?
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Apr 1, 2017 22:59
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Motronic posted:Suggestions on that kit please. Seems to be a good supplemental to what I've already got. Are there 12v coffee makers? I semi-seriously looked into that a while back and considered fitting a mains-powered Nespresso/capsule machine into my car, but they draw too much current unless you go for a serious install with a very beefy inverter. I suppose you could use a 12v kettle and one of those hand-pumped espresso machines, but if it doesn't have steamed milk, then I won't drink it. Why yes, I do have a coffee problem.
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Apr 1, 2017 23:43
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spog posted:I semi-seriously looked into that a while back and considered fitting a mains-powered Nespresso/capsule machine into my car, but they draw too much current unless you go for a serious install with a very beefy inverter. Yeah you've got a coffee problem, you put milk in it for a start.
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Apr 2, 2017 03:00
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Kafka Esq. posted:I've bought a new car and want to outfit it properly. I have castoffs from my old beater, but having a proper emergency kit, tools, and car care stuff is important to me. Anything that could be kept contained in the hatchback without being too obtrusive would be nice. Anything you guys would recommend generally? I don't want to buy crap from Canadian Tire. Lots of stuff depending on your needs, and some of can be sourced through Canadian tire and it's surprisingly good quality depending on the product. Here's some of the stuff I carry- Jumper cables, but a better option is a lithium ion booster pack. There's a motomaster one for about a hundred bucks, I have it and so far it's worked great. Work gloves Shop towel Oil, washer fluid Can of Fix a flat, or tire plugs and a 12v compressor. The viair models from Amazon are fantastic quality. If it snows where you live a folding camp shovel. Assorted pack of either ATO or mini ATO fuses depending on what your car takes. Zip ties A kwik pic screwdriver Pair of slip joint pliers Tire pressure gauge If there's anything in particular you want to be prepared for post that and the list can be tailored for that situation. Oh, and set an alarm in your phone to check your spare tire pressure at least every 3 months.
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Apr 2, 2017 18:04
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Get either a small ratchet set -or- go to harbor freight/princess auto and get a 3/8s ratchet and a few more common sockets. If you want to go super minimal just get the one wrench that fits your battery terminals. A wire brush is cheap and a nice thing to have if you ever find yourself getting a no-start from corrosion.
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Apr 2, 2017 18:41
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Fuel economy physics question to settle a disagreement between my boss and I: He regularly drives long distances (like, Oregon to Florida) to deliver furniture. Big diesel pickup and a short flatbed trailer. He hates pulling a trailer, I suggested flipping it upside down and strapping it on top of the pickup bed on the way back. He thinks this arrangement will use more gas than just pulling it. I think the engine is moving the 400 or whatever pounds of trailer regardless of how it's attached. Who's right?
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Apr 2, 2017 19:32
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Javid posted:Fuel economy physics question to settle a disagreement between my boss and I: You're right that the weight is the same regardless. It's more a matter of which configuration produces the least drag, and that's not immediately obvious. Being pulled, the trailer is in the slip stream of the truck so air drag may be reduced, but you've got the wheels rolling which adds its own drag. On the back of the truck it will be directly in the air stream. Intuitively, it seems like it would be less net drag on top of the bed, but I wouldn't put money on it.
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Apr 2, 2017 19:45
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 Trying to find a fuse to tap for my dashcam on my 2012 accord passenger side fuse box. Rear accessory and the one below it both appear to be always hot. The cig lighter is definitely switched though.
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Apr 2, 2017 19:47
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I have a 2016 Subaru Outback. I got it last August. Since then I have put around 2600 miles on it. According to Subaru's website, I should get my first servicing around 6,000 miles. At my current rate, this means I would hit 6K miles around next January, which would mean I would have gone like 17 months without doing anything to it but putting gas in? That seems a little long. Should I do some sort of time thing here, where even if I don't drive it that much then I should still change the oil and do whatever else every six months or so? I feel like I usually see these things listed as time or mileage, but the website doesn't mention that: quote:6,000 Mile Service Record Service Schedule Service
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Apr 2, 2017 20:03
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You don't need 6 month oil changes on modern cars. Just follow whatever the manufacturer suggests.
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Apr 2, 2017 20:24
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I believe that's a 6 month or 6,000 mile interval. So yeah, at least change the oil and look over the rest. I wouldn't rotate the tires yet, I would stick to the mileage interval.
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Apr 2, 2017 20:30
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Javid posted:Fuel economy physics question to settle a disagreement between my boss and I: Would it fit in the bed, or is the bed loaded with something else on the return trip? Also when you say "on top of the bed" does he have a hardshell cover or cap on the bed? If its the former that should be in the slipstream of the cab, on top of a cap the wind resistance is going to reduce fuel economy far more than the drag from the wheels on the trailer spinning.
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Apr 2, 2017 20:57
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Geoj posted:Would it fit in the bed, or is the bed loaded with something else on the return trip? No shell, it'd just be sitting on top of the wooden rack we built over the bed. We make bigass wooden beds, so the rails and small parts go in the bed, and the huge wide head and foot boards go on top of the rack; when everything's out, the trailer could just go up there. The logistics of actually getting the thing up there are another matter entirely. Javid fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Apr 2, 2017 |
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Apr 2, 2017 21:16
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Im a degenerate gambler and would bet on the flipped‐and‐strapped configuration being more efficient, up to at least 70 to a dollar of payout. But your boss hates pulling the trailer, and even if the impact is negative, its going to be small. If its feasible to lift the thing onto the bed, go for it.
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Apr 2, 2017 21:22
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Your boss is also putting wear and tear / miles on the trailer. Just throw it on the truck.
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Apr 2, 2017 22:01
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If I need to jack up a Ford Ranger, will four 16-inch jack stands get it higher than four of those steel tire ramps you drive up on to that raise the truck 8-inches? It seems like the the frame of the truck is 8 inches or more from the ground, so the ramps might actually get it as high or higher for way less effort.
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Apr 2, 2017 22:28
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Zero VGS posted:If I need to jack up a Ford Ranger, will four 16-inch jack stands get it higher than four of those steel tire ramps you drive up on to that raise the truck 8-inches? It seems like the the frame of the truck is 8 inches or more from the ground, so the ramps might actually get it as high or higher for way less effort. Last time I had to lift a ranger to any useful height I got a 4x4 post and turned it into blocks, then put my jackstands on those. Used a scissor or bottle jack also on blocks to lift it. This way you can sit the jackstands on the frame and not have to piss around with other, inferior lift points.
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Apr 3, 2017 00:05
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Grifter posted:I have a 2016 Subaru Outback. I got it last August. Since then I have put around 2600 miles on it. According to Subaru's website, I should get my first servicing around 6,000 miles. At my current rate, this means I would hit 6K miles around next January, which would mean I would have gone like 17 months without doing anything to it but putting gas in? That seems a little long. Should I do some sort of time thing here, where even if I don't drive it that much then I should still change the oil and do whatever else every six months or so? I feel like I usually see these things listed as time or mileage, but the website doesn't mention that: I would take it in for an oil change otherwise stick to the schedule
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Apr 3, 2017 04:05
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So, I have a 2000 Mazda B2500 pickup truck. A Ford Ranger, if you will. 4-cylinder engine. The serpentine belt tensioner exploded last week. I replaced it yesterday and put a new belt on, and it runs fine. But now the power steering 'chitters.' It seems to cut out when turning left or right quickly. I checked the fluid and it looks gross - like a chocolate milkshake. I don't know what the fluid looked like before, but it turned OK. It also looks like it overflowed and got PS fluid all over the engine bay, though the level isn't low. Air in the system maybe? I probably drove a maximum of two miles with the power steering disabled. Is this a coincidence or is there some kind of cause-effect thing here I'm not understanding? I'm thinking I can suck the old fluid out and put new fluid in, constantly bleeding the system by turning the wheel left and right...
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Apr 3, 2017 14:27
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The power steering system in that Ranger will puke fluid if you operate it without the pump spinning. So yeah you probably just got air in the lines.
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Apr 3, 2017 15:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:The power steering system in that Ranger will puke fluid if you operate it without the pump spinning. So yeah you probably just got air in the lines. Are all power steering systems like that or just the Ranger?
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Apr 3, 2017 15:48
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It's something unique to Fords, I think.
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Apr 4, 2017 01:22
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CornHolio posted:Are all power steering systems like that or just the Ranger? I couldn't say for sure but I do know that it's definitely a thing that affects the Ranger specifically. On the up side all you have to do to bleed the system is turn the wheel a fuckton of times with the truck running.
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Apr 4, 2017 03:56
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I couldn't say for sure but I do know that it's definitely a thing that affects the Ranger specifically. Yeah that's what I'm gonna do, but first I'm going to replace the fluid. It literally looks like a chocolate milkshake in there. Probably original fluid.
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Apr 4, 2017 13:38
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