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I'm trying to laminate a red oak 1x10 with a 1x6 and a 1x2 on top (see side profile picture below). The boards are ~6' long. Assuming I can clamp these well as the glue dries, is there any reason to mess with screws or other joinery at all?
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May 9, 2017 19:56
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| # ? May 30, 2024 22:21 |
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Mr Executive posted:I'm trying to laminate a red oak 1x10 with a 1x6 and a 1x2 on top (see side profile picture below). The boards are ~6' long. Assuming I can clamp these well as the glue dries, is there any reason to mess with screws or other joinery at all? I guess it depends on the grain direction. I assume 1x10 and 1x6, the grain is running parallel, but the glue to the 1x2 might be a bit of a challenge. Someone feel free to correct me if I'm way off-base.
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May 9, 2017 20:05
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Mr Executive posted:I'm trying to laminate a red oak 1x10 with a 1x6 and a 1x2 on top (see side profile picture below). The boards are ~6' long. Assuming I can clamp these well as the glue dries, is there any reason to mess with screws or other joinery at all? Nah, no extra reinforcement needed. These are all edge-grain to edge-grain joints, which means glue will work just fine and most likely be stronger than the wood itself when you're done. Assuming you clamp correctly, of course.
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May 9, 2017 20:19
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The 1x2 top to the 1x10 and 1x6 lamination is edge to end, though.
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May 9, 2017 20:22
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Mr Executive posted:I'm trying to laminate a red oak 1x10 with a 1x6 and a 1x2 on top (see side profile picture below). The boards are ~6' long. Assuming I can clamp these well as the glue dries, is there any reason to mess with screws or other joinery at all? No, but (looks at shark) you're gonna need a bigger clamps. Phone posted:The 1x2 top to the 1x10 and 1x6 lamination is edge to end, though. No, he's drawn it as a cross-section, it's all long grain.
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May 9, 2017 20:37
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Phone posted:The 1x2 top to the 1x10 and 1x6 lamination is edge to end, though. Boards are 6' long. I made the same mistake. I think you should be ok.
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May 9, 2017 20:38
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Yeah, it's all edge to edge. I just picked up 10 2" spring clamps from Home Depot to clamp around the perimeter. The clamps don't have enough reach to clamp the center of the 1x10/1x6. Is it a terrible idea to use gravity (setting a brick on it) to "clamp" this area? I have some 12" bar clamps coming from Amazon to attach the 1x2 after the 1x6 and 1x10 are glued.
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May 9, 2017 20:51
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Mr Executive posted:Yeah, it's all edge to edge. I just picked up 10 2" spring clamps from Home Depot to clamp around the perimeter. The clamps don't have enough reach to clamp the center of the 1x10/1x6. Is it a terrible idea to use gravity (setting a brick on it) to "clamp" this area? I'd use more than one brick, but sure, gravity clamps can work. You want firm contact between the two surfaces, which may potentially mean overcoming some small amount of cupping/warping in the wood via clamping pressure.
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May 9, 2017 21:05
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Cool. Thanks everyone. Off to potentially ruin a bunch of somewhat expensive wood!
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May 9, 2017 21:07
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Mr Executive posted:Cool. Thanks everyone. Off to potentially ruin a bunch of somewhat expensive wood! ...do a test in pine first.
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May 9, 2017 21:18
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Mr Executive posted:Yeah, it's all edge to edge. I just picked up 10 2" spring clamps from Home Depot to clamp around the perimeter. The clamps don't have enough reach to clamp the center of the 1x10/1x6. Is it a terrible idea to use gravity (setting a brick on it) to "clamp" this area? I don't have enough faith in spring clamps to do that unless those boards are flat as hell and won't move an iota with wet glue drying into them. What I'm saying is, use real clamps, or you're gonna have a Mr Executive posted:Cool. Thanks everyone. Off to potentially ruin a bunch of somewhat expensive wood! this
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May 9, 2017 21:23
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Mr. Mambold posted:this yolo 
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May 9, 2017 22:13
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Mr Executive posted:yolo 
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May 9, 2017 22:25
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Mr Executive posted:yolo *twitch* those bricks are gonna leave a mark
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May 10, 2017 07:49
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I take it they are the inside face and will be covered by the bed/box spring.
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May 10, 2017 08:44
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Spookydonut posted:*twitch* those bricks are gonna leave a mark I set 'em reeeal gentle like Corky Romanovsky posted:I take it they are the inside face and will be covered by the bed/box spring. yup
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May 10, 2017 12:51
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Mr Executive posted:I set 'em reeeal gentle like get into the habit of using scrap wood to protect your work piece when clamping, even if you don't scratch it they can still rub dirt/oil into the wood which can be annoying to remove. (which is why I washed all the rubber faces of my quikgrips last month)
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May 10, 2017 13:14
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Spookydonut posted:get into the habit of using scrap wood to protect your work piece when clamping, even if you don't scratch it they can still rub dirt/oil into the wood which can be annoying to remove. (which is why I washed all the rubber faces of my quikgrips last month) Yeah, it was a dumb mistake. On the drive home I was actually thinking about using scrap wood to more evenly distribute the weight. Of course I completely forgot when I got home and started slinging bricks everywhere. I'll do the other two boards better.
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May 10, 2017 14:17
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I figure if I'm not denting the scrap with my clamps I'm not clamping hard enough. No idea if that's correct or not though.
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May 10, 2017 17:14
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Leperflesh posted:I figure if I'm not denting the scrap with my clamps I'm not clamping hard enough. No idea if that's correct or not though. If you're gluing a small area and the surfaces are flat, you can just kind of rub the two surfaces together in a circular motion, and it'll create some kind of suction that will hold the surfaces together enough to create a plenty-strong joint. You need clamps when you're trying to temporarily force the wood into a different shape, long enough for the glue to set and hold the wood in that shape permanently.
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May 10, 2017 17:20
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I guess I figure glue is wet, and wet on one side of a board can make it expand and warp. So I figured clamp really hard to keep the wood from flexing during gluing. Maybe glue doesn't do that though? I assume it's not actually hurting anything to clamp really firmly, at any rate. Maybe get a tighter join, squeeze out all the excess glue so it's wood-on-wood with glue just filling the gaps.
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May 10, 2017 17:21
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I've often wonder how hard I should clamp. Usually I just tighten them as far as I reasonably can by hand without straining too hard, unless a board has some warping. The same goes for sanding too. How hard does everyone press when using a ROS?
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May 10, 2017 17:44
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keep it down up there! posted:I've often wonder how hard I should clamp. Usually I just tighten them as far as I reasonably can by hand without straining too hard, unless a board has some warping. Not hard at all. Like weight of your arm and sander hard
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May 10, 2017 17:53
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Most f-clamps won't starve the joint or are right at the limit. Parallel bessy style clamps can get too much pressure down, and thus Rob the joint of glue.
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May 10, 2017 18:01
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Spookydonut posted:they can still rub dirt/oil into the wood which can be annoying to remove. (which is why I washed all the rubber faces of my quikgrips last month) ha, I'll give you ten guesses where my spring clamps were 
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May 10, 2017 23:53
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Mr Executive posted:ha, I'll give you ten guesses where my spring clamps were How did the join turn out? And I bet those marks are also on the other side where you'll be able to see them
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May 11, 2017 03:29
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Also, just buy the Home Depot Bessey fun pack. It's $20 for 4 F-style clamps.
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May 11, 2017 03:46
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Phone posted:Also, just buy the Home Depot Bessey fun pack. It's $20 for 4 F-style clamps. Yes, do this. The only bright side of Jorgensen going out of business is that Depot always has the Bessey clamp packs now.
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May 11, 2017 12:57
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Spookydonut posted:How did the join turn out? As far as I can tell, the join looks great. We'll see after I scrape off the little bits of glue that I didn't catch and try to attach the 1x2. Also, those marks are on the other side too. A few seconds with an old 80 grit sanding block cleaned it up, though. Not ideal, but I'm planning on lightly sanding everything before staining anyway. Phone posted:Also, just buy the Home Depot Bessey fun pack. It's $20 for 4 F-style clamps. Are these F-style clamps particularly better than the single-hand trigger-style clamps? I got this Irwin pack from Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L07E6XO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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May 11, 2017 15:00
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Mr Executive posted:Are these F-style clamps particularly better than the single-hand trigger-style clamps? I got this Irwin pack from Amazon: Those trigger irwins are the most used clamps I own. The f style will be able to exert more clamping pressure, but I find that they move the two bits of wood that im clamping a bit more than the trigger style. Easy to counter if you know whats happening, and if you have the trigger clamps set up slightly off kilter they will do the same, but its not pronounced. I much much prefer the f style clamps once you get over about 30cms. They are usually much beefier. edit : I got two of those clamps in the top right corner, and have yet to use them for anything, and I have a bunch of those spring clamps, but the most use they get is to hold the hose from my dust collection in places that I want it. They have their uses, but I prefer the trigger clamps.
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May 11, 2017 15:17
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Mr Executive posted:Are these F-style clamps particularly better than the single-hand trigger-style clamps? I got this Irwin pack from Amazon: The real question you should be asking yourself is, "do I have enough clamps?" And the answer to that question is always no.
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May 11, 2017 15:19
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Mr Executive posted:
F clamps can put down way more pressure than those trigger clamps.
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May 11, 2017 15:20
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The real question you should be asking yourself is, "do I have enough clamps?" I bought two of those Irwin packs. Once those get here, I'll have: (4) 12" trigger clamps (2) 12" kinda-lovely old trigger clamps (1) 12" really-lovely old trigger clamp (4) 6" trigger clamps (4) 2" spring clamps (4) 2" handi clamps (10) 2" HD spring clamps Eventually I'll need to get some big boy clamps, but I think it will be a while before clamps become the limiting factor in my woodworking projects.
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May 11, 2017 15:39
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Mr Executive posted:, but I think it will be a while before clamps become the limiting factor in my woodworking projects. quoting for posterity.
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May 11, 2017 15:40
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I mean, in fairness, I have 4 6" C-clamps, 2 12" Irwin squeeze clamps, 1 12" F-clamp, 2 36" F-clamps, 2 36" pipe clamps, and a bunch of squeeze clamps (which I mostly don't use), and it's been enough for most of my projects so far. But I know that I'm going to run into projects where it's not enough eventually, and it'd occasionally be nice to be able to glue up two different components at the same time instead of having to dedicate all of my clamps of the right size to a single piece at a time.
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May 11, 2017 15:48
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NPR Journalizard posted:quoting for posterity. 
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May 11, 2017 16:00
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Mr Executive posted:I bought two of those Irwin packs. Once those get here, I'll have: And a pile of goonclamps, or bricks in the common vernacular
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May 11, 2017 16:00
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What are really cheap and handy are those tie down ratchet straps, you can get 2 or 4 packs of those pretty cheap.
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May 11, 2017 16:22
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Mr. Mambold posted:And a pile of goonclamps, or bricks in the common vernacular If all you have is a house full of poo poo, everything looks like a clamp, or something
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May 11, 2017 16:24
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I don't think there is a legit argument for not having f-clamps, they are the most basic and arguably most versatile (in how they can be used and how much pressure they apply). There certainly are reasons to have other types of clamps, but one of the first things I'd buy if I was a new Woodworker is 2-3 of those bessy 4 packs from HD.
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May 11, 2017 18:03
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