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John Heisz posted a video on push sticks. I prefer the two swan neck sticks like Matthias Wandel uses, but i have never tried his design, but it feels unsafe to me because you get close to the blade. One of the cardinal rules here among the professionals I have talked to is that the push stick should allow you to push the whole piece through without your hand moving past the blade. He also mentions that you get better control this way and feel the piece (though I can feel how the piece is behaving through my two sticks), but I can't help think that if something were to happen, the further away the better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSRZQD9aBAk Probably gonna make his and try it out though. I think there are cuts where it can come in handy.
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May 16, 2017 10:45
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Found a neat video on Japanese patterned marquetry. Reminds me of some of the more elaborate end-grain cutting board builds, except they slice the blocks into veneers.
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May 17, 2017 04:39
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My first attempt at butterfly keys. Just one last pass with the hand plane to flush it all up, and tore out one side: https://www.instagram.com/p/BUIoe9Xlcwx/ mds2 fucked around with this message at 13:20 on May 18, 2017 |
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May 17, 2017 13:00
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mds2 posted:My first attempt at butterfly keys. Just one last pass with the hand plane to flush it all up, and tore out one side: Ah yeah Wenge is a toughie. Do you have a card scraper?
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May 17, 2017 15:26
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His Divine Shadow posted:John Heisz posted a video on push sticks. I prefer the two swan neck sticks like Matthias Wandel uses, but i have never tried his design, but it feels unsafe to me because you get close to the blade. One of the cardinal rules here among the professionals I have talked to is that the push stick should allow you to push the whole piece through without your hand moving past the blade. Kind of a dopey video. He's whining about the notch being too deep on the 'other brand'? loving hell, dude, make another one? Although he does have a point about holding the piece down at the front end. I have 2 hands, I use 2 push sticks. I turned it off at that point, but I agree with you because you should not have a hand anywhere close to the blade. There's all kinds of variables of binding, slipping, spazzing you have to account for.
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May 17, 2017 15:44
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Anyone have a recommendation for a cheap lathe that I could use to make small stuff like chess pieces?
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May 17, 2017 18:46
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I've been pretty happy with the larger Harbor Freight lathe, so I'm guessing their tabletop one might be good too: https://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed-bench-top-wood-lathe-65345.html But do first sign up for the coupons, look for sales, etc. I paid half of the list price for mine by stacking a sale and a "super coupon" together.
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May 17, 2017 18:59
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The shipping weight is 77 lbs which means I assume you should figure out a way to bolt that thing down to something big and sturdy, because that's not a lot.
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May 17, 2017 19:22
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Yeah, that's a safe bet for a small one. I didn't bolt down my big lathe, but I did wedge a plywood shelf on the leg crossbeams and put two 40-lb bags of salt on it. Really helps with the vibration. An alternative might be Penn State Industries. I only have experience with their chucks but they're a good starter (cheaper) option.
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May 17, 2017 19:35
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Skippy Granola posted:Ah yeah Wenge is a toughie. Do you have a card scraper? Yes I do.
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May 17, 2017 20:07
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I've read through the OP but it's a real mountain of reading which seems very useful for getting really in depth but I'm struggling on bootstrapping the process. The piece I'm missing is the broad flow of different machines for different parts of the process, because from the outside it looks like there's half a dozen tools that do the same thing, though I know that's not really the case. Is there a good resource for "this tool is primarily used for step x because..", and shouldn't be used for step y because.. or vice versa going from intent to tools? Working with sheet wood or boards requires tools x y and z for process whatever? I've deliberately left out specifics here because it's not any one thing I'm looking for as much as putting all the pieces together.
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May 17, 2017 20:13
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Arachnamus posted:I've read through the OP but it's a real mountain of reading which seems very useful for getting really in depth but I'm struggling on bootstrapping the process. As a somewhat related example, I've wanted a table saw for my Hackspace but that idea has been shot down. Instead, I got pretty creative at using the stuff the space has to make my projects instead.
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May 17, 2017 20:19
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Arachnamus posted:Is there a good resource for "this tool is primarily used for step x because..", and shouldn't be used for step y because.. or vice versa going from intent to tools? Working with sheet wood or boards requires tools x y and z for process whatever? Different tools are better at different jobs; you should always use the best tool (that you own) for the cut you want to do, both for better precision and because it's usually safer. A miter saw is great for doing crosscuts and angled (i.e. mitered) cuts, but its cut width is limited by the size of the sawblade. Bandsaws can do rip cuts and curved cuts, and can also resaw (e.g. turn a 2"-thick board into two 1"-thick boards), but they're harder to get a perfectly straight cut with due to the narrow blade. Table saws can do rip and cross cuts, miter cuts, cut dados, and even resaw if you don't mind losing a lot of material to the saw, but they also have more potential to be dangerous when used improperly, compared to most other tools. Still, most shops have one because of their versatility. Circular saws are good for when you'd rather move the saw through the piece than the piece through the saw. They're also quite versatile, but the lack of a table or fence means you have to set up jigs for basically every cut you want to do. Jigsaws are kind of like portable bandsaws -- you can do curved cuts with them, but it's harder to cut a straight line with one than it is with a circular saw. Then of course there's routers, planers, jointers, lathes, drill presses, mills...and that's not even getting into the vast profusion of non-power tools.
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May 17, 2017 20:35
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One thing that looks like it can help with miter saw width problems that I've seen is miter saws that have an arm they can slide on. This is about what I had in mind, I'd have one in my garage if I hadn't bought a miter saw literally three months ago, my local home depot had these ones on sale for like $130 for their "spring black friday" sale. Really wanted to try playing with it.
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May 17, 2017 20:40
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Magres posted:One thing that looks like it can help with miter saw width problems that I've seen is miter saws that have an arm they can slide on. This is about what I had in mind, I'd have one in my garage if I hadn't bought a miter saw literally three months ago, my local home depot had these ones on sale for like $130 for their "spring black friday" sale. Really wanted to try playing with it. Those exist, but they're more expensive and a lot harder to calibrate (and more prone to losing calibration, leading to inaccurate cuts) than normal miter saws, and usually you don't need the extra width anyway. Like, my miter saw can do a 90-degree cut across a 2x8, and it's been rare that I've needed more than that. In the rare situation that I do, I can either cut partway through, flip it over, and finish the cut (tricky to align properly, sometimes), or just break out a hand saw and finish the last couple inches by hand.
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May 17, 2017 20:51
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Then of course there's routers, planers, jointers, lathes, drill presses, mills...and that's not even getting into the vast profusion of non-power tools. This is where I start to get lost. I can understand the mechanism of each tool but I'm not grokking the caveats of them, for example I've vaguely picked up that circular saws don't provide as clean a cut as a table saw. Kinda wish there was a big table somewhere. huhu posted:Perhaps you should start with a specific project you want to work on and ask here if the tools it suggests are what you need or if there is a better multipurpose alternative. Yeah I suppose asking for the world isn't super helpful. As mentioned a few pages ago I'm going to have a go at some simple kitchen cabinets. People provided some useful information on how to do it the cheap way but I immediately got lost in a pit of tool research to see about doing a better job of it. Seems like a table saw is a good investment, but is it worth going for "trade" grade rather than "hobby"? (their terminology) Do I need a planer/thicknesser and a jointer for working with planks? Are there any cuts I can't do with a table saw, circular saw, and jigsaw? I'm in choice paralysis through not wanting to spend 2 grand on a machine I'll only use twice vs "well of course you need a knot rejigger or your joints will be totally out of congregation"
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May 17, 2017 21:00
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I have totally given up on even trying to answer questions like yours because as soon as anyone commits anything to text, several others will immediately contradict. I will attempt to answer the jointer/planer question though. A jointer makes a surface flat. With a fence it can also make one flat surface 90degrees (or other angles) to another flat surface. A planer makes a board a consistent thickness. Got a bowed boar? Run it through a planer and now you have a thinner bowed board! This is why the two tools are used together. The jointer makes a flat surface that the planer can reference to make the board both consistent in thickness, as well as useful (because it's flat, because it referenced a flat side of the board). All of this can be done with hand tools, but I've found the face jointing is the easiest (get one face 'flat' but not perfectly smooth and then let the planer do the rest) and that thicknessing ( what the planer does) is the hardest. Edge jointing is somewhere in between and I do wish I was faster at it. So the "tool purchasing" takeaway is, buy a way to get the board flat based on your budget (jack plane or power jointer) and also buy a power planer. If you have the cash you can consider combo jointer planer machines.
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May 17, 2017 21:36
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Mr. Mambold posted:you should not have a hand anywhere close to the blade. BUT MICROJIG!
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May 17, 2017 21:48
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GEMorris posted:So the "tool purchasing" takeaway is, buy a way to get the board flat based on your budget (jack plane or power jointer) and also buy a power planer. If you have the cash you can consider combo jointer planer machines. Thanks. Finding out the different uses between the two isn't too difficult (googling tool A vs tool B generally does it) but the level of serious you need to be before it's worth buying is harder information to find.
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May 17, 2017 21:49
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Honestly for your first projects I would say just buy boards that are already flat and surfaced. They're more expensive than rough-cut boards, but getting and learning to use the tools that let you turn rough-cut boards into something usable is a substantial investment that I really wouldn't recommend making before you've decided that carpentry is something you want to go deep on. Another alternative is to find a friend with the tools, or a maker space that has them.
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May 17, 2017 22:10
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Honestly for your first projects I would say just buy boards that are already flat and surfaced. They're more expensive than rough-cut boards, but getting and learning to use the tools that let you turn rough-cut boards into something usable is a substantial investment that I really wouldn't recommend making before you've decided that carpentry is something you want to go deep on. This is solid advice. It will cut down on a lot of your frustration right off the bat. My local hardwood store sells lumber surfaced on three sides and will plane it thinner for a price.
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May 17, 2017 22:48
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Find a YouTube woodworker or a woodworking author you like and go with their recommendations. Every goddamn splinterhead has written a "what tools should I get" article at some point. Basically I just started trying to build along with Paul Sellers and started picking up new tools when the ones I had couldn't adequately do the job. Start with the best tools you can afford that will be immediately useful for the project you're building. In time your workshop will basically fill itself. Mine did, around the same time my bank account started to deplete. 
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May 17, 2017 22:54
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It is good advice and I shall take it. I'll find a table saw, maybe a cheap mitre and a circular saw, maybe some dust extraction and be off to the races.
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May 17, 2017 22:55
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Skippy Granola posted:Find a YouTube woodworker or a woodworking author you like and go with their recommendations. Every goddamn splinterhead has written a "what tools should I get" article at some point. The catch there is that most of them are American and so recommend or use US brands that don't translate well. I'm sure I'll find something.
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May 17, 2017 22:57
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Also keep in mind that everything you can do with a power tool, you can do with a hand tool, but slower. So if you have any space considerations at all, and if you are OK with spending more time doing a thing, a hand tool can be an excellent option. You can do woodworking with as little as a place to sit and a sharp knife (whittling). Add a tabletop, a screwdriver, screws, and glue, and you can make more stuff. Add a handsaw, clamps, and you're off to the races, you can make things like birdhouses and small tables and whatnot. More tools lets you make more complex assemblies, speed up various tasks, make use of more different materials, and generate ever-increasing piles of sawdust. This is why it's a good suggestion to think about what sorts of projects you'd like to do. If you are only ever going to buy pre-cut wood and make birdhouses, you probably don't need a planer or a jointer and can get by without any power tools at all, just buy some boards and cut them up and drill holes and screw and glue and sand and paint or finish and you can make some dang birdhouses. But if you want to make a chest of drawers from roughcut random dimensioned pieces of hardwood? Yeah okay you could in theory do that with a few hand tools but you'll probably want some more capabilities and some power tools to make the job a little easier to get through. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 23:06 on May 17, 2017 |
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May 17, 2017 23:03
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A quick note on wood buying: pick up one end of the board and put your eye at the corner, then sight along the length of the board. This will make it much easier to detect warped boards. Sight along the width as well (at both ends of the board), as boards can become cupped. Feel free to keep searching through the wood pile until you find straight boards.
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May 17, 2017 23:12
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Arachnamus posted:The catch there is that most of them are American and so recommend or use US brands that don't translate well. I'm sure I'll find something. I'm sure you have a similar system to the Vocational-tech schools we have here. If you have zero experience, I strongly recommend you make your first investment in an adult course, and many of your questions should be answered. If I had zero experience starting from scratch, I'd be really leery of Youtube. We're talking powerful and/or sharp equipment.
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May 17, 2017 23:46
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:A quick note on wood buying: pick up one end of the board and put your eye at the corner, then sight along the length of the board. This will make it much easier to detect warped boards. Sight along the width as well (at both ends of the board), as boards can become cupped. Feel free to keep searching through the wood pile until you find straight boards. Seriously my first ever project wound up including a badly warped 2x4 that was absolute hell to deal with. God damned thing twisted about 20 degrees down the length of the wood. In retrospect I should have either taken it back and demanded new (not completely lovely) wood or just bought another plank, but I was dumb and tried to use it anyway and hated every moment of it.
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May 18, 2017 00:05
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huhu posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a cheap lathe that I could use to make small stuff like chess pieces? Craigslist or similar is my first recommendation.
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May 18, 2017 04:23
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midge posted:BUT MICROJIG! The microjig got widely smashed as a bad idea on a swedish forum I frequent, at least used like it's done in the commercials.
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May 18, 2017 04:24
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Timber selection is a lot more important for dressed boards.
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May 18, 2017 04:28
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His Divine Shadow posted:Craigslist or similar is my first recommendation. Something like this went for €150 just now on a local site. It's just some china made thing but hey, it's cast iron frame, 5 speeds, good height on the head and tail stock (I think vertical capacity is more important than length of bed), the controls for the tool rest are nicely situated. I mean this looks better than my own lathe I just refinished. 
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May 18, 2017 07:22
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This is all very useful advice, thank you.Mr. Mambold posted:I'm sure you have a similar system to the Vocational-tech schools we have here. If you have zero experience, I strongly recommend you make your first investment in an adult course, and many of your questions should be answered. If I had zero experience starting from scratch, I'd be really leery of Youtube. We're talking powerful and/or sharp equipment. I did have a woodworking class back in school so although I've forgotten all the details and we didn't deal with these specific tools (was mostly bandsaws, belt sanders, drill presses and scroll saws) I do have a healthy respect for working with them and the various precautions that go with it.
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May 18, 2017 10:31
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I fixed my tear out: https://www.instagram.com/p/BUO78PeFbSI/ How does everyone feel about instagram posts? Annoying or ok? I'm just taking the lazy way by not rehosting the same image somewhere else.
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May 18, 2017 13:20
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It's kind of annoying on the forums since the image doesn't load, but also I like it so I can scroll through the other stuff and/or follow the account.
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May 18, 2017 14:46
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:How does everyone feel about gel stains (from General Finishes)? I'm about to finish a pine dry sink and I've heard you don't need to condition the wood beforehand if you use a gel stain, and from videos it seems a lot easier to work with compared to a regular oil-based stain, which is what I typically use since I have a few cans of them readily available. Re-posting since it may have been missed. Any good resources on finishing (in general) are appreciated as well, I hate it.
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May 18, 2017 16:53
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Re-posting since it may have been missed. Any good resources on finishing (in general) are appreciated as well, I hate it. I loving hate gel stain. I never get as good of results.
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May 18, 2017 16:54
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huhu posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a cheap lathe that I could use to make small stuff like chess pieces? Depending on how much space you have a used shopsmith could work. I got mine for 200 bucks on Craigslist and I'm really glad I got it over the smaller normal lathes that were available.
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May 18, 2017 17:08
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mds2 posted:I fixed my tear out: Don't care especially since you have other sexy wood pics on it
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May 18, 2017 20:02
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mds2 posted:I fixed my tear out: I do prefer seeing the image in the forum, but since I follow you on instagram I know what you're posting and don't need to click the link. I'm almost done these boxes, but there's a couple finicky parts on the veneer that the finish doesn't want to build on, so more coats till it looks even. 
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May 19, 2017 01:03
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