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nielsm posted:Table saw. You need a sled with a relatively tall vertical (90 deg) attachment, which you can then clamp the board to. Set the blade to 30 deg. That will give you a cut 60 deg relative to the main surface of the board. Thanks for the responses...that was kinda what I was afraid of. To be clear though, if I set my (crappy) miter gauge to 30* and run the board through the saw standing on the 1" side with the 3" side facing the blade and the blade at 90*, wouldn't that accomplish the same thing? If so, any reason why that's a bad idea? Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 19:33
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It's very difficult to control movement of the board when it has so little surface area touching other things. It will also require you to put your hands very close to the blade if you want acceptable control. Lack of control at best results in an uneven cut, at worst kickback or cut fingers. Clamping it to a sled gives you a large amount of additional surface area that makes the movement much more precise, and lets you keep fingers at a safer distance. Instead of a sled, if you have a large, thick block, with the biggest opposite faces perfectly parallel, and one other face square to those, you could clamp your board to that and guide that along your fence. That could also be about good enough. E: Best tool would actually be a bandsaw. nielsm fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 19:58
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Gotcha...I guess I'll play around with it but good to know that this isn't a no-brainer easy thing that I am just too dumb to understand how to do. I will have to decide between making a 90* jig thing or maybe a framer's jig kind of thing that is built for 60* instead of 45*.
Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 20:05
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I realize this doesn't answer the question you asked but as a comedy option:
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Jun 29, 2017 05:32
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It's not a comedy option at all. for a 1x3 board unless I had to make like 10+ cuts I'd definitely do this with a handsaw and a mitre box.
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Jun 29, 2017 07:28
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Let's hope nobody gets all "I need to get in there!" and destroys your plugs.
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Jun 29, 2017 14:50
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Yeah, that outlet will no longer be usable, but there's an outlet on either side of the door way. So not too much lost. And the inswing door that used to be here was worse in every way. I bought some more screws last night so hopefully I'll have a working door tonight.
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Jun 29, 2017 16:17
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MetaJew posted:Yeah, that outlet will no longer be usable, but there's an outlet on either side of the door way. So not too much lost. And the inswing door that used to be here was worse in every way. I might be tempted to replace that receptacle with a blank faceplate when I'm done, just to avoid tempting fate
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Jun 30, 2017 01:04
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Just cut a notch in the door to fit around the outlet. 
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Jun 30, 2017 01:36
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Recess the outlet and angle it to the right.
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Jun 30, 2017 03:28
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I'd never heard of a track saw before it was mentioned in this thread, and jesus christ this saved me a ton of effort cutting plywood today, even with the lovely skilsaw I have at work. So thanks to whoever suggested that to somebody else entirely earlier. E: also slowly working in a plaque for a deer skull mount in my spare time, using scraps from the same chunk of birch as I used on the forend for the gun I shot it with. 
Javid fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Jun 30, 2017 |
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Jun 30, 2017 05:19
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Hubis posted:I might be tempted to replace that receptacle with a blank faceplate when I'm done, just to avoid tempting fate Corky Romanovsky posted:Recess the outlet and angle it to the right. A cool idea, but there's a shower right behind this, I'm not sure if there's any easy way to recess it, unless you have a particular junction box and receptacle in mind that can do this. Also, 2x4 framing so there's not a whole lot of depth available. Also, I got the door hung tonight. All in all I think it turned out pretty nice.   
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Jun 30, 2017 06:43
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I've been trying to source timber to make my work bench and the only dimensionally large enough timber is either treated (expensive and possibly hazardous dust) or dressed (expensive and not actually dressed well). Apparently manufacturers don't do untreated framing timber anymore and are currently struggling to keep up with demand for pine. Any suggestions?
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Jun 30, 2017 07:04
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This outlet doesn't look much deeper. Plus it has an aperture for toys and candy.
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Jun 30, 2017 08:16
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Spookydonut posted:I've been trying to source timber to make my work bench and the only dimensionally large enough timber is either treated (expensive and possibly hazardous dust) or dressed (expensive and not actually dressed well). Ask at a lumber yard if they have or can order some stock in the sizes you need. Ask for a price estimate before ordering! Or go to the source and try to find a lumber mill. This is what I did, they milled the 12x12x16' beam right in front of me. Finally, maybe join a local guild or group and ask them. Fwiw I paid $3.25/bf for 12" wide 8/4 pine boards in Minnesota.
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Jun 30, 2017 11:58
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ColdPie posted:Ask at a lumber yard if they have or can order some stock in the sizes you need. Ask for a price estimate before ordering! Or go to the source and try to find a lumber mill. This is what I did, they milled the 12x12x16' beam right in front of me. Finally, maybe join a local guild or group and ask them.  You got a link to that place?
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Jun 30, 2017 14:31
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Minnesota Milling down in Farmington. http://minnesotamilling.com Search my posts in this thread and you can find a couple pictures. When I was there it was just two dudes, a band saw mill, and a shitload of slabs.
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Jun 30, 2017 15:20
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Corky Romanovsky posted:This outlet doesn't look much deeper. Plus it has an aperture for toys and candy. How do I find one of these? I would consider installing one.
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Jul 1, 2017 02:11
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MetaJew posted:How do I find one of these? I would consider installing one. They are sort of a shitshow to google and compare, but I got this one and I'm happy with it. Believe you can do an angled box in 2x4. Linking the box as well. I know when I looked for this there were a bunch like the one posted earlier but phoneposting so hopefully if you want that style someone can point you in the right direction. If you try the PDF on that platt page I think the same company may make single or double versions along with the triple. I just have a blank plate on the middle for right now. 
uwaeve fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jul 1, 2017 04:17
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I think my paring chisel is too sharp, I keep brushing my hand against it and cutting myself and then not noticing I cut myself until later.
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Jul 1, 2017 07:15
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Spookydonut posted:I think my paring chisel is properly sharpened.
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Jul 1, 2017 13:56
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Spookydonut posted:I've been trying to source timber to make my work bench and the only dimensionally large enough timber is either treated (expensive and possibly hazardous dust) or dressed (expensive and not actually dressed well). I have a account with a hardwood wholesaler here in michigan. They ship all over but not sure how cost effective it would be. As an example they once had 4' wide Honduran mahogany but that was years ago. Tell me what you need and I'll find out if they can ship. They can supply it rough, parallel straight lined or surfaced planed.
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Jul 1, 2017 15:18
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I've been working ridiculous hours for the last month, so I haven't really had much time to work on my bench. I managed to squeeze in a couple hours today and I got the side assemblies together.   Leg vise needed a little clearance for the nut, so I cut the shoulder partially off one of my ridiculously oversized and unnecessary upper stretchers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5jXIKf8wTw I'm using West Systems epoxy thickened with colloidal silica. First time I've really used it for a glueup (I usually fill cracks/etc with it) and holy hell it's great. Doesn't swell wood, so it just lubricates tight joints together beautifully. Those drawbores are a heavy 3/32" and they went in with zero drama. Really happy about that.
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Jul 2, 2017 03:14
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Lapua posted:I have a account with a hardwood wholesaler here in michigan. They ship all over but not sure how cost effective it would be. As an example they once had 4' wide Honduran mahogany but that was years ago. Tell me what you need and I'll find out if they can ship. They can supply it rough, parallel straight lined or surfaced planed. In Australia. Looking for just plain 2x4s (90x45mm) or whatever gibberish you call 70x35mm to laminate into a benchtop. Probably just pine. I can get 70x35mm H3 treated wood but enough of it would cost me about $120AUD and it's treated (and tinted green), H2 is like a couple dollars cheaper overall but is tinted blue. I can get 2x4s untreated DAR but that blows the price out to $200-300 There's a few lumberyards nearby that I'm going to check with.
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Jul 2, 2017 11:10
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Spookydonut posted:In Australia. Looking for just plain 2x4s (90x45mm) or whatever gibberish you call 70x35mm to laminate into a benchtop. Probably just pine. Where abouts in Australia?
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Jul 2, 2017 11:15
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NPR Journalizard posted:Where abouts in Australia? Perth. Austim looks promising.
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Jul 2, 2017 11:18
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Spookydonut posted:Perth. Austim looks promising. Hah, yeah I got some nice jarrah from them.
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Jul 2, 2017 11:35
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Spookydonut posted:In Australia. Looking for just plain 2x4s (90x45mm) or whatever gibberish you call 70x35mm to laminate into a benchtop. Probably just pine. You ever think about using poplar or aspen? I don't know if they sell it in Aus. Advantage is they are cleaner to work with and take paint well.
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Jul 2, 2017 17:42
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Lapua posted:You ever think about using poplar or aspen? I don't know if they sell it in Aus. Advantage is they are cleaner to work with and take paint well. In Australia it's either pine or jarrah, anything else is "exotic" and costs like 2/3x more.
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Jul 2, 2017 17:54
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Made a keepsake box for my grandmothers birthday. Side are a mystery wood I picked out of the bin, grandma says its Caoba which is pretty much mahogany, but I've never worked with it before so who knows. Lid is Padauk and Cherry; the padauk was the only other piece of wood I had that was long enough  . Cherry was added as the padauk still wasn't wide enough after being resawn. Bottom is just some birch ply. Finish is BLO.   Gaps and uneven edges abound, but as they say, thats how you can tell its hand made
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Jul 3, 2017 04:09
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Here's a bit of family history. This wooden bear was carved by my grandfather on my fathers side. He made this in during world war two at the russian front. I've no idea what tools he used to make it or what was available to him there. I remember playing with it as a kid and after he died my mom remembered how much I liked it as a kid and gave it to me.  On the inside it says JR 13 which means the 13th Infantry Regiment:  He never talked about the war but a google search says the 13th was part of the 5th division: quote:The 5th Division was a unit of the Finnish Army during the Winter War. It was part of the II Corps (II AK) which fought on the Karelian Isthmus as part of the Army of the Isthmus. It was stationed on the Mannerheim Line between Lake Muolaanjärvi and Kuolemajärvi.
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Jul 3, 2017 08:40
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His Divine Shadow posted:Here's a bit of family history. This wooden bear was carved by my grandfather on my fathers side. He made this in during world war two at the russian front. I've no idea what tools he used to make it or what was available to him there. I remember playing with it as a kid and after he died my mom remembered how much I liked it as a kid and gave it to me. Not to state the obvious, but that's almost certainly a map of where he was at the time on the bottom, too, which is pretty awesome as well.
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Jul 3, 2017 13:06
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Progress shots   Checking the fit before varnishing   
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Jul 3, 2017 13:57
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Looking good. Are you worried at all about constantly knocking the escape tower off coming through that door on the right? (Also, I really want that set and I'm super-jealous.)
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Jul 3, 2017 19:39
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Magnus Praeda posted:Looking good. Are you worried at all about constantly knocking the escape tower off coming through that door on the right? It's just temporarily on that shelf for now, and that's a built-in closet
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Jul 4, 2017 02:54
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Okay so I visited Austim and I think I'll be building my benchtop out of jarrah. Is making it out of hardwood going to be something I regret when it comes to planing it flat?
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Jul 6, 2017 06:02
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Spookydonut posted:Okay so I visited Austim and I think I'll be building my benchtop out of jarrah. Keep your planes sharp and dont get curly grained wood and you should be fine. I would still use a sacrificial top though.
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Jul 6, 2017 06:05
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If anything, planing hardwood is easier than planing softwood. Hardwood tends to have much denser grain, which is easier to work with.
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Jul 6, 2017 08:09
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Disagree that hardwoods are easier to plane than softwoods but not enough that it should drive wood selection for a workbench. Also to what end should someone put a sacrificial top on a traditional woodworking bench made for hand tools? It'll actively get in the way of pretty much every work holding operation. Sacrificial tops are for power tool tables where you are using a circular saw, and I'm not sure what else. Maybe a finishing table if you don't like putting down paper but care about the theoretical potential appearance of the table, but not the actual day to day appearance.
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Jul 6, 2017 13:17
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Quote is not edit
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Jul 6, 2017 13:17
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