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Can anyone help me find a replacement for this motor? nema 23? 8 wire, high torque. approximately 53mm top to bottom edit: bought another 56mm stepper, gonna swap out the shaft moron izzard fucked around with this message at 01:15 on May 7, 2017 |
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May 6, 2017 23:42
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Behold, my new control box. G540 with custom cooling fan in the top, and an E stop for when I write bad code. 
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May 11, 2017 22:33
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the first thing you make should be a better control box
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May 12, 2017 02:20
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Not my area of expertise but I think youre tempting the magic pixie gods with the total lack of EMI control.
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May 12, 2017 02:42
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Speaking of that....whats a good way to deal with EMI? Put the power farther away from the controller?
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May 12, 2017 23:56
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The best ways to deal with common mode current EFI are chokes. Otherwise you'll basically need to build a RFI/EFI shield like a faraday cage.
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May 13, 2017 11:32
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Brekelefuw posted:Speaking of that....whats a good way to deal with EMI? Pimblor posted:The best ways to deal with common mode current EFI are chokes. Otherwise you'll basically need to build a RFI/EFI shield like a faraday cage. This but I'll translate into a few design features: -Metal box with an electrically bonded metal lid. If you remove the lid a bunch, easiest way to do the bonding IMO is with an EMI gasket. -Very good grounding including for your cable shielding. Remember you can't bond through paint or anodizing. (Except type 1 ano) -Shielded cabling (poor/lazy mans shielded cabling = Aluminum foil with copper tape on the seems) -Shorter cable runs, I've heard the rule of thumb is 4 feet. -Those blocky cable warts are ferrite chokes, use those. (https://www.amazon.com/Device-Cable-Dual-Ferrite-Chokes/dp/B004ZXN7B2) -Dont put unshielded power cables next to data cables or just use shielding -Careful about putting high power stuff like welders on the same ground/power lines. I've actually seen a control fried that we are pretty sure died from that. One more thought: Unless you know where your sources and victims are, some of the above advice can make the design worse. If both your source and victim are in the same box, going from a plastic-> metal box will probably make it worse. Same thing if you have one fat wire loom (like how cables run in planes or cars) for your cables with a big overbraid on it. If your source/victim are under that same overbraid unshielded, you will get cross talk. Lastly, not my area of expertise (I'm a mech e) but sorta tangential to it. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 12:28 on May 13, 2017 |
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May 13, 2017 12:12
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I'm going to buy a bunch of clip on Ferrite beads on Monday. There are only like 6 wires total in the box. 3 for the power supply, and 3 from the power supply to the e stop to the G540. The stepper wires are pretty short. Probably 18" I used the DB9 adaptors that came with the G540, but maybe I will buy some premade DB9 cable and splice it instead for shielding. The G540 manual just said use 14-24AWG stranded wire and didn't mention anything else.
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May 13, 2017 17:45
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Brekelefuw posted:I'm going to buy a bunch of clip on Ferrite beads on Monday. Most of the 18/4 "stepper motor wire" I have seen has been shielded and I assume twisted pair. EDIT: This may help: https://www.servo2go.com/information.php?menu=TS&page=10031
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May 13, 2017 21:13
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CarForumPoster posted:Most of the 18/4 "stepper motor wire" I have seen has been shielded and I assume twisted pair. https://www.amazon.com/50-FEET-18-AWG-SHIELDED/dp/B01GZ50P7Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494723967&sr=8-4&keywords=stepper+motor+wire Same company also sells it on ebay.
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May 14, 2017 02:06
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Parts Kit posted:Yeah, this is what I'm planning on getting eventually: I've torn apart a few ancient tape libraries and that's the same exact stuff they used for all wiring.
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May 14, 2017 02:35
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Anecdotally, I have shielded stepper cables, but both ends are floating. I don't have any interference issues over ~8 foot or so wire runs. This is on a 1000x1000 X-carve with a non-stock Arduino controller that lives in a plastic box.
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May 14, 2017 15:55
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Btw for anyone not immersed in this stuff but still using it, for shielded cable only connect the shield to ground on one side. Don't connect both sides, leave the other side unconnected.
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May 14, 2017 17:41
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Bought a handful of ferrite clamps, and a better USB cable (although apparently they don't shield them in general because of low voltage or something) as well as some really beefy DB9 things. Apparently fans can cause all sorts of noise, so maybe having my fan mounted directly in the top of my box isn't a great idea?
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May 14, 2017 19:27
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My cheap plastic box has a fan in the lid that's about a half inch above the cheap, certainly non-shielded Chinese drivers. I really doubt you'll to have to worry about nuclear hardening that Gecko, those are really robust little boxes, and they specifically recommend using active cooling for them. Put it all together, see how it runs, and then address any issues that may be present. I'd bet a meager amount that using shielded wires for your steppers is probably going be all the EMI mitigation you'll need.
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May 14, 2017 21:23
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Tossed all my ferrite beads on my cables, and messed around a lot today. Didn't run in to any issues. Also got my z axis dialed in. Anyone know if when tuning the X axis on a lathe in Mach3, you need to account for radius mode? Also, if anyone wants 4 KL-4030 motor drivers and a C10 board, I am getting rid of mine since I moved to the G540. Almost no run time on them. Less than an hour.
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May 15, 2017 22:19
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moron izzard posted:Can anyone help me find a replacement for this motor? nema 23? 8 wire, high torque. approximately 53mm top to bottom Well, that didn't work. Both of the people that sold this cnc hot wire either use different steppers now or aren't talkin. I guess I should just swap all of them, given the lack of documentation and extreme difficulty in finding this configuration for a stepper motor. Could anyone recommend a set? the mounting areas will hold a nema 23, 2.2"/56mm tall, and somewhere between 180 and 220 oz.in of torque (2 motors on each horizontal axis, 1 motor on each vertical). I just want to get this up and running asap. I dont know what driver is currently in the enclosure but surely I can rewire it for a 4 or 6 pin stepper? We have a geckodrive lyin about as well. moron izzard fucked around with this message at 19:28 on May 16, 2017 |
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May 16, 2017 19:18
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I have 185oz Nema 23 8 wire motors on my setup. Got them from Automation Technology in Illinois.
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May 17, 2017 01:10
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Brekelefuw posted:I have 185oz Nema 23 8 wire motors on my setup. Was there a single shaft version of this? if not, no worries. edit: I did, thats why I asked.vvvvvvvv moron izzard fucked around with this message at 16:36 on May 17, 2017 |
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May 17, 2017 05:55
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Don't know. Check their website. They have a ton of stuff. automationtechnologiesinc.com
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May 17, 2017 12:49
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Brekelefuw posted:Don't know. Check their website. They have a ton of stuff. Turns out they were sold out but didn't have their stock levels right on the site. It also turns out that the ebay seller that sells these is just them under a different name It also turns out that cnc4pc just drop ships from them. I'll make the 76mm work instead moron izzard fucked around with this message at 15:47 on May 20, 2017 |
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May 20, 2017 15:26
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Finally, they're here. I have the documentation for the new steppers, but none for the old ones. Whats the best way to figure this out? The old ones used a connector at the stepper, so I know the pairs, just not which coil or polarity they are. Should I pull open the box holding the drivers and power supply and see if theres marks in there?
moron izzard fucked around with this message at 17:04 on May 30, 2017 |
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May 30, 2017 16:56
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There's a way to figure out the wiring by measuring the resistance of various pairs of leads. I can't remember the sequence but it's easy to look up online.
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May 30, 2017 17:43
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moron izzard posted:Finally, they're here. I have the documentation for the new steppers, but none for the old ones. Whats the best way to figure this out? The old ones used a connector at the stepper, so I know the pairs, just not which coil or polarity they are. Should I pull open the box holding the drivers and power supply and see if theres marks in there? It's four wires right? Somewhere in this AvE video (I think around here) he discusses how to measure the resistance of the wire pairs from a stepper to determine which are paired. I think if you see kilo-ohms of resistance, they're not a pair. If it's a reasonable ohm value, they're paired. Once you've determined the pairing, it doesn't matter which wire is which, there's no polarity.
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May 30, 2017 22:23
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mewse posted:It's four wires right? its an 8 wire - I know the 4 pairs, just not the rest of the important parts.
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May 30, 2017 23:04
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http://www.victorleung.info/post/identify-leads-on-a-8-wire-stepper-motor/ basically you just plug in the pairs and switch them around until it works
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May 31, 2017 05:41
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Not really CNC related but I bought one of those Chinese brushless motors and controllers that were being discussed a few pages back and recently got around to testing them. The main parts that I have are: 48v 500w brushless motor ZM-6615 brushless motor controller Mean Well 48v 600w power supply I also had to get a machined-to-order v-belt pulley from the UK that cost like 36 bucks shipped. It's a nice item though and fits the belt that I am using really well. I used a website called Bhiner for all the Taobao stuff. They're known as an "agent" and act as a middle-man for a small fee. I used them mainly because they accept PayPal for payment and send you photographs of your items so you can verify that everything is correct before it gets shipped internationally. The only real issues I've had so far have been with the motor. The machined mounting face has a giant ding in it but luckily the motor still mounts flat and straight. In addition the factory-installed shaft key was slightly too large and had been forced into place anyway, presumably with a sledge hammer. As a result I had to remove a giant burr from the key itself as well as dress the keyway. I think the shaft itself is also slightly out of round, as the pulley I bought had to be forced on. Other than that the motor seems really nice. I didn't take any test cuts yet but it's very smooth and seems to have plenty of torque for my small lathe. The motor controller also seems to work well and has some neat options. I'm currently working on an enclosure that will hold all of the electronics as well as have a front panel with a tachometer readout and motor controls.
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Jul 4, 2017 18:39
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DethMarine21 posted:I used a website called Bhiner for all the Taobao stuff. They're known as an "agent" and act as a middle-man for a small fee. I used them mainly because they accept PayPal for payment and send you photographs of your items so you can verify that everything is correct before it gets shipped internationally. Post is neat but this is especially helpful. Also I've always wondered why those little lovely import bench power supplies are so expensive. $72 for 600W, 48V? If I could live with A computer PSU (12V) I can get 74A @ 12V (~900W) for that and its got cooling figured out for me. EDIT: Hilariously bad power factor too if I did my math right. Rated input 12A@115VAC (1380VA)...rated output of 600W. EDIT2: Though it described the efficiency for that model as 88% so maybe I'm off base here...seems like if true the input rating should be like 6A @ 115VAC. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Jul 4, 2017 |
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Jul 4, 2017 22:19
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Meanwell is by no means lovely FYI; they're extremely well designed, specced, and built. One of the larger power supply manufacturers that you're able to buy in hobby quantities.
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Jul 4, 2017 22:42
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rawrr posted:Meanwell is by no means lovely FYI; they're extremely well designed, specced, and built. One of the larger power supply manufacturers that you're able to buy in hobby quantities. Oh, good to know.
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Jul 4, 2017 22:53
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Yeah I was originally wary of using a Mean Well brand supply as I vaguely remember something about quality control issues or something in the past. I think they are also counterfeited a lot which is why I ordered mine from a reputable supplier like Allied. For the price though it seems like a pretty decent unit. The next cheapest 48v 600w enclosed supply on Mouser costs ~2x more. Looking through the vents I can see that the main input filter capacitor and the output filter capacitors appear to be Rubycon brand; the output filter capacitors in particular are the long-life YXF series. My only issue so far is that the fan runs constantly and sounds like a jet engine.
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Jul 4, 2017 23:28
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Some pc power supplies are fudging their 12v rail ratings or are splitting the capacity across multiple rails.
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Jul 5, 2017 16:45
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Has anyone got any experience with a machine that can use either a laser, or a cutter? I want to get a cnc machine, but having one that could do dual duty would be extra handy.
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Jul 16, 2017 12:15
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NPR Journalizard posted:Has anyone got any experience with a machine that can use either a laser, or a cutter? I want to get a cnc machine, but having one that could do dual duty would be extra handy. They're such different machines with different design goals that it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to try to "double play." A laser doesn't need nearly as much rigidity or force moving the carriage because like a 3D printer, the head shouldn't encounter obstacles. A cutting machine needs to be able to force into a workpiece. A CNC router needs z-axis movement to lift the cutting head out of the workpiece for moves or lower-depth cuts, where you can just turn off or modulate the power to a laser. There's also the much different safety concerns. A laser needs eye protection, safety interlocks and ventilation, but all of those things would get in the way on a CNC router.
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Jul 16, 2017 13:41
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Plus a router kicks up so much dust there's no way to have a clean environment. At the very least you'd have to cover or remove the laser every time you used it so the lens doesn't get dirty.
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Jul 16, 2017 13:55
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ok, there goes that plan, cheers for the info.
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Jul 16, 2017 14:47
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ok, so im about to pull the trigger on buying this and I was wondering if anyone had experience with anything similar.
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Jul 18, 2017 05:16
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NPR Journalizard posted:ok, so im about to pull the trigger on buying this and I was wondering if anyone had experience with anything similar. Speaking as someone that has one collecting dust--don't. There are no limit switches (you basically have to manually tell the machine where 0,0,0 is and pray your Gcode doesn't send it into over-travel or try to drive your tool into the metal bed), no way to set up anything like a tooling library, and the pirated version of Mach3 they come with is in Chinese and you'll end up laying out more cash to buy a license for a supported version because the manual they come with is utter garbage (and the particular version of Mach3 is something that will only run well on a PC that has Windows XP or XP Mode installed). The specific one you linked runs on 220v/50hz, so unless you live in an area that runs on 50hz (most of the US is 60hz), and have a 220V circuit, don't bother. Even if you somehow have the perfect storm of circumstances where you can get the machine to work: -It's incredibly slow, we're talking "max feed rate at 10 inches per minute" slow. And the steppers will overheat if you have everything running at 10 inches per minute all the time. -The spindle it comes with will overheat and commit thermal suicide. There is a dinky little fan attached to the top of the spindle to try and air cool it, but it's pathetic how hot the spindle body gets while running. -On the subject of the spindle--you have no Gcode control of the spindle speed relative to the feed rates you put in the program, you use a dial on the control box to set the spindle speed with no feedback as to what the actual RPMs the spindle is putting out even are. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 12:05 on Jul 18, 2017 |
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Jul 18, 2017 12:00
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ok, thats all good to know, thanks. Im in Australia, so 220v is not an issue. I wasn't expecting amazing things, but you make it sound hopeless. If I kept the feed rate microscopic, would that alleviate the issues? Do you have any suggestions for other machines that will do that job? The smallest I could go is a 3020, but I wanted to keep it under $1k aud. I was initially looking at a smaller machine, but im flexible.
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Jul 18, 2017 15:31
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NPR Journalizard posted:ok, thats all good to know, thanks. You could always go down the MPCNC route. https://www.vicious1.com/specifications/
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Jul 18, 2017 15:40
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