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I need wipe strippers (household and automotive work) and a new centre punch, reasonably priced recommendations? Are auto centre punches any good?
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Jul 22, 2017 22:48
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Mr. Mambold posted:What kind of router has an integrated plug, Shirley they all go in somewhere to connectors and a switch. However, you don't have to solder anything, just get a replacement plug, strip the 3 wires back, and screw each to its appropriate terminal. These replacement plugs are a thing of beauty. It's a cheapo Bosch router. It's served me pretty well, so I'm in no hurry to get rid of it. I crossposted to the Fix It Fast thread and they agree with you, so I should be able to fix this for under  E: relatedly, what are peoples' recommendations for routers these days? As I said, I'd like to have a second router. The easy choice would be to get a second Bosch router since I already have both fixed and plunge bases, but finding a "bare" router (with no base) seems difficult. The alternative would be to get a router with a plunge base and leave my Bosch router in the (Bosch) router table all the time. Or I guess get a router that can be mounted to the router table, and leave my Bosch router in the plunge base. From googling, it doesn't seem like there's a huge amount of differentiation between consumer routers? TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Jul 22, 2017 |
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Jul 22, 2017 22:59
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Hooray, this is my router's plug: You want a 15-5 NEMA plug. Just cut the wires and attach, probably with screws. 5 minute job and cheap. EDIT: $3, comes with an installation guide online and is local: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-3-Wire-Plug-Orange-R51-515PV-0OR/205165505 cakesmith handyman posted:I need wipe strippers (household and automotive work) and a new centre punch, reasonably priced recommendations? Are auto centre punches any good? Buy decent ones, theres absolutely nothing worse than lovely wire strippers. I like the Klein ones with the die sets. Do not use the all in one $1 garbage.
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Jul 22, 2017 23:30
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CarForumPoster posted:Buy decent ones, theres absolutely nothing worse than lovely wire strippers. I like the Klein ones with the die sets. Do not use the all in one $1 garbage. Whilst I appreciate the input I'm after a more specific recommendation, I'm replacing some all in 1 garbage. Do you have a link? I can't find what you describe on Klein tools website.
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Jul 23, 2017 23:09
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These are the best wire strippers there are Once you get a feel for them, you never need anything else, and all those ones with the differently sized cutouts and complicated mechanisms just feel gimmicky.
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Jul 23, 2017 23:14
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cakesmith handyman posted:Whilst I appreciate the input I'm after a more specific recommendation, I'm replacing some all in 1 garbage. Do you have a link? I can't find what you describe on Klein tools website. Whats your budget? The Ideal and Klein brand ones that are in the $200+ price range made for cutting a certain mil spec wire is what I used at a crimp tool company I worked at and I really liked those...but I have no need for them and make do with a self adjusting $30 wire cutter I hate because I don't strip wires that often. I haven't used this specific one, but this is the general idea: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-11063W-Katapult-Stripper/dp/B00BC39YFQ Key features: -A die set that is dedicated to a certain AWG and closes to cut 360° (unlike the self adjusting ones) -A wire gripper that holds the sheath and pulls it without putting too much force on it
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Jul 23, 2017 23:21
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This is not very heavy duty: The next step up is one of these:  And then it seems to skip several steps because the next heavier-duty things I can find are like this:   How can I get something that's between that in power? Light-duty enough to NOT need a hose, so as to walk around indoors and spray messes away with, but heavy-duty enough to not melt apart if I decide the current mess demands the bottle be filled up with something that would destroy the seals of the first two bottles, like hot bleach or mineral spirits or pressurized boiling suds?
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Jul 23, 2017 23:21
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CarForumPoster posted:I haven't used this specific one, but this is the general idea: I think it works fantastically and really enjoy using mine.
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Jul 23, 2017 23:28
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Dumb Lowtax posted:How can I get something that's between that in power? Light-duty enough to NOT need a hose, so as to walk around indoors and spray messes away with, but heavy-duty enough to not melt apart if I decide the current mess demands the bottle be filled up with something that would destroy the seals of the first two bottles, like hot bleach or mineral spirits or pressurized boiling suds? Do you want it to be hand‐powered or battery‐powered or what? Use the key phrase “chemical resistant”. e: I’m not saying “buy here”, but does this list have what you’re looking for? Platystemon fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jul 23, 2017 |
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Jul 23, 2017 23:38
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Dumb Lowtax posted:This is not very heavy duty: Not sure if its any more powerful than the middle product you already showed, but there are these sort of sprayers for insecticide/fertilizer/weed killer, etc: https://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20000-Fertilizer-Herbicides-Pesticides/dp/B000E28UQU The bottle material itself I'm pretty sure is HDPE, which is pretty highly chemically resistant, but I'm not sure about the materials used in the seals and other components. There's also backpack sprayers of a similar (hand pump powered i think) variety. I'm not really clear on the application you want this for. Some kind of general purpose low-pressure pressure washer? You might also check out some handheld steam cleaners, like this thing for example https://www.amazon.com/Handheld-Pressurized-Sanitizer-Multi-purpose-Disinfects/dp/B01N7RA23T Although that does require an electrical cord. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Jul 23, 2017 |
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Jul 23, 2017 23:52
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Well I started with something more like this: But the nozzle seals melted and got all hosed up when I tried to use boiling soap water. The goal was to rinse away some other cleaner and pet messes on some walls and other surfaces. It worked awesome for long enough to clean a bathroom, but then the sprayer never worked again. If there's something with stronger and/or chemical resistant seals then I don't care if it's more expensive because I would just use it all the time, to clean everything, and then mop it all up once it drips down. So much easier than wiping things by hand. Edit: Being able to spray a stream across the room is important, so nothing that just billows out steam. Hand pump is great because it's low maintenance and most portable that way. Battery is ok if that's available, but cords or hoses feeding in wouldn't really work for using it in several rooms. Happy Thread fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 00:39
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Dumb Lowtax posted:Well I started with something more like this: peep this chemical compatibility chart: http://www.aceglass.com/downloads/eccc.pdf
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Jul 24, 2017 00:44
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There's an Atlas 6" jointer on my local Craigslist for $125. Is this a good price or should I pass? E: 6001 model, looks prettty good in the pictures but I haven't seen it in person. Koryk fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 02:05
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CarForumPoster posted:Whats your budget? The Ideal and Klein brand ones that are in the $200+ price range made for cutting a certain mil spec wire is what I used at a crimp tool company I worked at and I really liked those...but I have no need for them and make do with a self adjusting $30 wire cutter I hate because I don't strip wires that often. Definitely closer to ¿30 than ¿200, what did come up when I searched was https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N3CIMUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fMBDzbC53Y9J1 which sounds like what you're describing but not klein. E:I will and do use 3 of those 4 crimp types. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 10:14 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 10:12
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cakesmith handyman posted:Definitely closer to ¿30 than ¿200, what did come up when I searched was https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N3CIMUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fMBDzbC53Y9J1 which sounds like what you're describing but not klein. No this is the kind of stripper I am say NOT to get for stripping, it will be absolute poo poo. It doesn't close 360° around the wire, it just cuts notches in the sheath as well as cuts the wire itself usually. I linked the kinda I am talking about which are $27. Those crimpers are find though as long as they gauge right when closed. You can use a gauge pin to check.
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Jul 24, 2017 12:38
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CarForumPoster posted:Whats your budget? The Ideal and Klein brand ones that are in the $200+ price range made for cutting a certain mil spec wire is what I used at a crimp tool company I worked at and I really liked those...but I have no need for them and make do with a self adjusting $30 wire cutter I hate because I don't strip wires that often. I bought these awhile ago, and have been super happy with them.. no more screwing around trying to strip wire with a utility knife.
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Jul 24, 2017 13:43
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CarForumPoster posted:No this is the kind of stripper I am say NOT to get for stripping, it will be absolute poo poo. It doesn't close 360° around the wire, it just cuts notches in the sheath as well as cuts the wire itself usually. I linked the kinda I am talking about which are $27. Gotcha.
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Jul 24, 2017 19:03
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peepsalot posted:Maybe you can find compatible sized seals that are in a more chemically resistant material? I'm assuming its basically just o-ring or maybe rubber washers that would need replacing?  Yeah if there were chemical & heat resistant versions of the seals that would solve the problem. Here's the two that melted (in my other one I bought; the ones shown are intact), shown next to the nozzle they came out of. Do you think these seals / sprayer things are likely to be standard? Happy Thread fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 21:52
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Koryk posted:There's an Atlas 6" jointer on my local Craigslist for $125. Is this a good price or should I pass? Assuming it's running decent and not out of alignment that's a good price. I rarely see jointers under 200 unless they're 4" or cheap used modern benchtop models.
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Jul 24, 2017 22:41
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Koryk posted:There's an Atlas 6" jointer on my local Craigslist for $125. Is this a good price or should I pass? Sounds like a great deal.
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Jul 25, 2017 01:23
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I found one of these on Craigslist and I desperately want it even though I have almost zero need for it I love stupid old poo poo like this.
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Jul 25, 2017 04:34
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Anyone heard of narex ( http://www.narextools.cz/en)? They seem to make a lot of chisels, but I can't tell from the internet if they make good chisels. The cheapest chisel I can find to suit my needs is made by them (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Narex-Mortice-chisel-Peel-chisel-Extra-long-/152420978056?var=&hash=item237cff8d88:m:me33oPnFLnNqu424trNV2uA), but it's $50. If I'm going to spend $50 on a chisel, it's got to be a good chisel.
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Jul 25, 2017 05:05
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Dumb Lowtax posted:This is not very heavy duty: I think I know what you are after: 
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Jul 25, 2017 17:57
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Is that super soaker HDPE?
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Jul 25, 2017 19:46
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If the seals in those were resistant to boiling liquids and the like, they'd probably be getting used for getting weapons past metal detectors
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Jul 25, 2017 20:01
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What sort of security situation are you envisioning where you've got to go through a metal detector but you're allowed a water gun?
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Jul 26, 2017 03:23
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DreadLlama posted:Anyone heard of narex ( http://www.narextools.cz/en)? They seem to make a lot of chisels, but I can't tell from the internet if they make good chisels. The cheapest chisel I can find to suit my needs is made by them (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Narex-Mortice-chisel-Peel-chisel-Extra-long-/152420978056?var=&hash=item237cff8d88:m:me33oPnFLnNqu424trNV2uA), but it's $50. If I'm going to spend $50 on a chisel, it's got to be a good chisel. I have a few of the Narex bench chisels from Lee Valley. They're fine, no complaints. Do you actually need an extra long mortising chisel? What are you trying to do?
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Jul 26, 2017 12:35
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The foreground beams need motices cut in them to accept tenons to-be cut in the background posts. This is my first timber frame. I've post-and-beamed before but this is new to me. 
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Jul 26, 2017 22:09
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I need a stud finder for wooden studs behind plasterboard/drywall. I've tried the magnet on a string and never have success, any recommendations?
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Jul 26, 2017 22:24
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cakesmith handyman posted:I need a stud finder for wooden studs behind plasterboard/drywall. I've tried the magnet on a string and never have success, any recommendations? Is there an electric box on that wall? Those are mounted to studs and studs are evenly spaced. If you can figure out which side of the box the stud is on, you can measure over to the other studs on that wall.
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Jul 26, 2017 22:34
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cakesmith handyman posted:I need a stud finder for wooden studs behind plasterboard/drywall. I've tried the magnet on a string and never have success, any recommendations? Stronger magnets make this easier. If you have any rare-earth disk magnets, they'll stick to the wall where a drywall screw is. If you don't have any rare-earth disk magnets, I recommend getting some, they come in handy more often than you might think.
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Jul 26, 2017 22:36
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kid sinister posted:Is there an electric box on that wall? Those are mounted to studs and studs are evenly spaced. If you can figure out which side of the box the stud is on, you can measure over to the other studs on that wall. Yes, there's one did 16" from there I only thing because the plaster is ever so slightly uneven but I can't find any nails or screws 16-24" (or multiples of) further on. I see magnetic stud finders on Amazon like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vYqEzb8ZYETRN are they any good like a stronger magnet or are there electronic ones that actually work?
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Jul 26, 2017 22:43
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cakesmith handyman posted:Yes, there's one did 16" from there I only thing because the plaster is ever so slightly uneven but I can't find any nails or screws 16-24" (or multiples of) further on. There are plenty that work if you have drywall. Plaster is another story.
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Jul 26, 2017 22:46
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Magnetic stud finders are not really any better than just using a strong magnet. They have a magnet on a swivel, which can theoretically detect and point towards screws from a distance, but in my experience they tend to just kind of swivel randomly due to you moving the stud finder around. There are non-magnetic stud finders, but they're a lot more expensive. I've never used one. You could also just knock on the walls and see where they sound hollow.
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Jul 26, 2017 22:54
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DreadLlama posted:The foreground beams need motices cut in them to accept tenons to-be cut in the background posts. Are you planning to chop the mortises by hand with a chisel? That seems like a son of a bitch. Anyway, to answer your question, Narex is a fine mid range chisel brand and $50 does not seem at all too expensive for a chisel of those dimensions.
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Jul 27, 2017 00:05
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cakesmith handyman posted:I need a stud finder for wooden studs behind plasterboard/drywall. I've tried the magnet on a string and never have success, any recommendations? Lay a flashlight on the wall and sweep the beam around. The screws will be really obvious.
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Jul 27, 2017 00:58
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good jovi posted:Lay a flashlight on the wall and sweep the beam around. The screws will be really obvious. what
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Jul 27, 2017 01:00
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good jovi posted:Lay a flashlight on the wall and sweep the beam around. The screws will be really obvious. Whoever installed your drywall did a poo poo job of it. The screws should be slightly below the level of the drywall and then mudded over to create a flat continuous surface.
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Jul 27, 2017 01:20
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ColdPie posted:Are you planning to chop the mortises by hand with a chisel? That seems like a son of a bitch. Anyway, to answer your question, Narex is a fine mid range chisel brand and $50 does not seem at all too expensive for a chisel of those dimensions. An auger will be used to rough out the holes and I can probably square up the top portion long axis' of the mortises with a skilsaw. The chisel's job will be to clean out the deeper portions of the mortises. To be honest I'd rather use power tools all the way, but a chisel is cheaper than a new router + upspiral bit, which still wouldn't cut a square hole. cakesmith handyman posted:I need a stud finder for wooden studs behind plasterboard/drywall. I've tried the magnet on a string and never have success, any recommendations? Pry loose your floor molding and drill a couple <3/32" holes in the wall. You'll know when you hit a stud. Draw a vertical line with a bubble level up from your hole. Put the floor molding back.
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Jul 27, 2017 01:55
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Whoever installed your drywall did a poo poo job of it. The screws should be slightly below the level of the drywall and then mudded over to create a flat continuous surface. A lot of things should be, but this has been my goto stud finding method in every house I've ever lived in and it's never failed. Give it a try, you'll be surprised how much stands out.
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Jul 27, 2017 02:20
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