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Falco posted:For some reason I'm feeling dense today, did you actually retire it? Pretty sure they mean they replaced the "tires" on the blade wheels.
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Sep 26, 2017 20:54
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Rewiring that motor to 120v should be simple. Take off the plate for the wiring harness and there may be a diagram inside.
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Sep 26, 2017 21:03
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Falco posted:For some reason I'm feeling dense today, did you actually retire it? And yup, it most definitely had the wood blade guard near the riser block. That part seemed super janky, but the rest seemed in pretty good shape. Yes, it's not too difficult. You have to make sure and scrape all the bits of the old ones off. Those saws are 40+- years old, the tires on mine were cracked also. I forget where I got them though. Those motors should be able to rewire. Look them up. I think mine is 1/2, maybe 3/4 horse, which is fine.
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Sep 26, 2017 23:48
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I am gonna need to get real familiar with cauls soon as I get more into making furniture.
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Sep 27, 2017 00:54
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The two step stool chairs I built in their new home. 
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Sep 27, 2017 02:45
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Mr. Mambold posted:Yes, it's not too difficult. You have to make sure and scrape all the bits of the old ones off. Those saws are 40+- years old, the tires on mine were cracked also. I forget where I got them though. Those motors should be able to rewire. Look them up. I think mine is 1/2, maybe 3/4 horse, which is fine. Awesome, it looks like the urethane tires are what get recommended a fair amount, and don't seem too expensive. Did you end up replacing your wooden blade guard with anything else? I haven't started it up yet with no 220v, so until I get it re-wired I'll wait to see how it runs to start replacing anything. Kruxy posted:The two step stool chairs I built in their new home. These turned out great, and looks like they are getting some love as well. Glad to see it ended up working out after all.
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Sep 27, 2017 18:05
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For a potential carving project I will need a block of wood about 8"x11"x3". In the likely outcome that I'll have to glue pieces together, is there a preferred direction to glue? That is, is it better -- however you want to define better -- to stack two or three 8x11 planks, or a few 3" blanks? fwiw, I'm looking for walnut but will settle for basswood if I have to (or some wood between them)
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Sep 27, 2017 18:21
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Falco posted:Awesome, it looks like the urethane tires are what get recommended a fair amount, and don't seem too expensive. I'm pretty sure my tires are orange urethane. The wooden blade guard seems like they knew what they were doing. I think I had one or 2 blades break, although I was never an everyday bandsaw user. I think you can see mine has a hairline crack in it I've never bothered to repair. 
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Sep 27, 2017 19:57
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dupersaurus posted:For a potential carving project I will need a block of wood about 8"x11"x3". In the likely outcome that I'll have to glue pieces together, is there a preferred direction to glue? That is, is it better -- however you want to define better -- to stack two or three 8x11 planks, or a few 3" blanks? So I'm not sure whether this has anything weird with carving, but generally you want to glue edge grain to edge grain instead of end grain to anything. End grain sucks up glue and also tends to have less surface area, both of which contribute to a worse bond. Ideally stacking planks in your case is probably better.
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Sep 27, 2017 23:16
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Gonna be getting some Kreg plugs. It was suggested I get a flush trim saw. Japanese, maybe? I don't know. If I'm buying a tool I don't want to buy crap but I don't wanna spend a ton if I can help it. Also ideally something I can Amazon or order simply enough...
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Sep 29, 2017 05:17
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Feenix posted:Gonna be getting some Kreg plugs. It was suggested I get a flush trim saw. Japanese, maybe? I don't know. If I'm buying a tool I don't want to buy crap but I don't wanna spend a ton if I can help it. Also ideally something I can Amazon or order simply enough... You don't absolutely need one imo. Depends how many you are going to have to trim really. Do you have a saw with a thin and flexible blade already? I got pretty close with a regular spineless japanese saw (dont remember the proper name sorry). Then I trimmed the rest with a really sharp chisel, which you would probably want to do anyway even with a flush cut saw to get rid of the teeth marks. I made a "Now playing" record holder thing for my sister. Turned out pretty well though I need to learn way more about finishes - didnt really know what I was doing with the shellac and I think I used too much because it built up around the bottom edges. How do you avoid getting glue stains? You can see in the photo at the bottom of the channel there is a dark patch where the glue seeped into the end grain even though I wiped it off straight away.
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Sep 29, 2017 07:03
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dupersaurus posted:For a potential carving project I will need a block of wood about 8"x11"x3". In the likely outcome that I'll have to glue pieces together, is there a preferred direction to glue? That is, is it better -- however you want to define better -- to stack two or three 8x11 planks, or a few 3" blanks? You can find wood in that thickness, and that's obviously your best bet. If you have to glue up pieces for your blank, your worry is going to be the glue lines and competing grain showing in the carving and/or affecting the carving tools. Consider what you are going to carve, and try to arrange the glue lines such that they are minimized in the final piece. Try very hard to get all of your wood from a single board and arrange the grain carefully so it matches when you glue it up. Also, try a 3x3 test piece or something. Glue it up, carve it a bit, and see how the grain and glue line show through. Try again with a different technique if you don't like the results. Try googling around for "matching grain"-related websites, there may be some good tips out there. I also found a few hits for "glue up blank for carving". Feenix posted:Gonna be getting some Kreg plugs. It was suggested I get a flush trim saw. Japanese, maybe? I don't know. If I'm buying a tool I don't want to buy crap but I don't wanna spend a ton if I can help it. Also ideally something I can Amazon or order simply enough... I don't have one yet, but when I get around to it, I plan to get the double-sided one here, $26+shipping: http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=69373&cat=1,42884
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Sep 29, 2017 12:03
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Re: flush trim saw for plugs: I have no handheld saw (or chisel, for that matter) yet. The kreg video basically said "flush trim saw, then sand" So I was going by that. These pocket holes (16 holes) are on the interior and not viewable, but I still want to keep the stain and poly out...
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Sep 29, 2017 15:13
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I like the veritas flush trim saw, but as long as the saw has the tooth offset only on one side, any should work.
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Sep 29, 2017 15:20
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Would this be what I want? https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double...=flush+trim+saw Or more like this? https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-720-3000-Flush-Cutting/dp/B0012XR9US/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1506701710&sr=1-1&keywords=kugihiki I like the first one better, but does it flex? And does flex matter?
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Sep 29, 2017 17:16
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Feenix posted:Would this be what I want? The second one is what you want. Yes flex is helpful, and the teeth on the first one are going to be set on both sides of the saw plate.
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Sep 29, 2017 18:07
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GEMorris posted:The second one is what you want. Yes flex is helpful, and the teeth on the first one are going to be set on both sides of the saw plate. Thank you!
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Sep 29, 2017 18:08
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Feenix posted:Would this be what I want? What GEMorris said about the flush cut saw, but I also wanted to mention that if you have no hand-held saws at all the Ryoba is a great purchase as it is very effective, easy to use, and versatile (and while people have differing and valid opinions about sharpening saws, the japanese saw model of a super sharp replaceable blade is definitely great for the beginner or someone who is only occasionally using hand tools anyways). Hubis fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Sep 29, 2017 |
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Sep 29, 2017 20:02
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I made some shelves to hold some toys that are taking over my living room, here is the quality control inspector giving it a quality inspection. This is my second set of shelves I've built like this, from the Anarchist's Design Book, they go together so quick and are super solid. Just some dados and cut nails. It is made of ash with a cherry back. 
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Sep 29, 2017 20:56
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I made some shelves to hold some toys that are taking over my living room, here is the quality control inspector giving it a quality inspection. This is my second set of shelves I've built like this, from the Anarchist's Design Book, they go together so quick and are super solid. Just some dados and cut nails. It is made of ash with a cherry back. It's pretty and muy functional, like about everything you've ever posted here, I hope Inspector Babby doesn't come to grief over those sharp edges that you easily could have busted over. 
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Sep 29, 2017 21:46
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I made some shelves to hold some toys that are taking over my living room, here is the quality control inspector giving it a quality inspection. This is my second set of shelves I've built like this, from the Anarchist's Design Book, they go together so quick and are super solid. Just some dados and cut nails. It is made of ash with a cherry back. Making things out of wood for your kids is one of life's most fundamental pleasures. Looks very nice. How'd you finish it?
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Sep 30, 2017 04:12
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After getting sick and tired of conrstantly having to flatten my water stones, and then accidentally gouging my finest one, I finally sucked it up and bought some diamond stones. Holy hell I should have done this sooner. They seem to cut a lot quicker, especially if you give them a lot of pressure, and having them 100% perfectly flat all the time had made my sharpening process heaps faster. Also no mess from the water. Being so inspired I went and sharpened and polished all my plane irons and chisels. My only complaint is I think the eze-lap "extra fine" stone isn't quite fine enough to go straight to the strop after, though I might still be wearing down the initial coarser diamonds. Kind of wish I never got water stones to begin with, but I probably wouldn't have been able to afford diamond stones when I started woodworking even if I wanted them. It's a shame they are so expensive because I think they would be way better for beginners.
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Sep 30, 2017 08:59
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I've never liked waterstones, or understood why they are so popular. They require constant flattening, require access to water in your shop (I don't got any) and make a helluva mess. I like my arkansas oilstones so much more (used to have a naniwa combo waterstone), for any serious removal or reshaping of the bevel, a belt grinder is the way to go.
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Sep 30, 2017 09:33
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I like hollow grinding with a bench grinder. It really allows you to feel the correct angle when you switch over to your stones. Also it means you're removing less material when sharpening by hand, which makes things so much faster.
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Sep 30, 2017 10:03
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Thirding a general dislike for waterstones. I switched to mylar-backed PSA sandpaper on a granite tile and never looked back. Also use a bench grinder to hollow grind my blades, like Tres Burritos mentioned, it saves a ton of time.
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Sep 30, 2017 15:02
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Wouldn't an adhesive also lead to uneveness?
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Sep 30, 2017 15:35
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Corky Romanovsky posted:Wouldn't an adhesive also lead to uneveness? Not when it is precisely applied during the manufacturing process, no. This is the stuff I use
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Sep 30, 2017 16:02
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Slow speed grinder - EF DMT plate - EEF DMT plate - PSA sandpaper (same stuff linked) is my progression. The extra extra fine diamond plate is slightly overkill, but my 4000/8000 grit sandpaper lasts longer as a result. High grit waterstones are fine too, you can just spray the quality ones down with water and go. They dish pretty slowly, but at the same time, high grit sandpaper lasts a long while and is probably not any more expensive in the long run.
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Sep 30, 2017 16:20
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Mdf wheel with green compound kicks rear end.
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Sep 30, 2017 16:32
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For me, even if the PSA sandpaper costs more, the space savings and reduced mess makes it worth it.
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Sep 30, 2017 16:33
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Kind of semi-off topic-ish but you guys saying you dislike wet stones for sharpening, do your concerns apply to kitchen knives? I have some great knives, and some great Japanese whetstones. I am no pro but I get good results and find it kind of zen. Are you guys talking about sharpening stuff (and your likes/dislikes) in a manner that does not involve or concern kitchen knives? Also while I'm asking some off topic nonsense, I've never stropped my kitchen knives. What's the benefit and should I loving stop being an idiot and start stropping?
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Sep 30, 2017 17:02
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When I say I'm not a fan of wetstones it's solely from a "I don't like the hassle of flattening and getting part of my shop wet or having a dedicated stone pond that takes up valuable limited space" standpoint. All user experience issues. I have no issues with their efficacy. I've not sharpened knives on a stone, so I have no opinion there. I'd guess dishing and flattening the stones is less of an issue?
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Sep 30, 2017 17:07
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Feenix posted:Kind of semi-off topic-ish but you guys saying you dislike wet stones for sharpening, do your concerns apply to kitchen knives? I have some great knives, and some great Japanese whetstones. I am no pro but I get good results and find it kind of zen. Are you guys talking about sharpening stuff (and your likes/dislikes) in a manner that does not involve or concern kitchen knives? Same, I've got a rare vintage set of Japanese knives from the 60's I use waterstones on, and for the same zen feel, but I'd never do woodworking chisels with one. Jimho.
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Sep 30, 2017 17:23
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Tres Burritos posted:I like hollow grinding with a bench grinder. It really allows you to feel the correct angle when you switch over to your stones. Also it means you're removing less material when sharpening by hand, which makes things so much faster. Oh yeah I've been looking for a suitably large sandstone on the 2nd hand sites to build a big rear end wet grinder from.
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Sep 30, 2017 18:32
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Chisels and the like want a perfectly flat sharpening stone. Kitchen knives are typically gently curved in profile and in any case don't have to be so precisely flat, so it's less of an issue if your stone gets a little cupped. The sharpening motion for a long blade is different from a chisel anyway, I think you can use the whole width of the stone and thus cause less cupping in the first place. I recently got some cheap superfine wet/dry sandpaper, but not the adhesive kind, and tried it out on a granite tile. I found the chisel or plane blade corners easily tear into the sandpaper, even when using a guide. Is that typical, and I just have to go more slowly, or am I likely doing something wrong?
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Sep 30, 2017 18:41
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Leperflesh posted:
Generally the adhesive kind is much more resistant to this, but it can still happen. I do a few things to minimize it: 1. Whenever I have a blade fresh from the grinder, or a blade I've just filed the corners on, or that has suffered a knick or other minimal damage, I always start with extremely light strokes, putting any more than the minimal pressure down on these first strokes is almost guaranteed to dig into most papers. Once I've done 5-10 strokes any high points that might dig in are gone. This applies to the first strokes on the back or the bevel of the blade right after grinding, filing, or damage. 2. In general I try not to have any downward pressure at all on the push stroke. I don't lift up the edge, but I don't press down. 3. I don't sharpen dry, I lubricate the paper with oil.
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Sep 30, 2017 19:08
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OK, good tips! I've been lubing with water, I'll try oil.
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Sep 30, 2017 20:24
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Granite Octopus posted:After getting sick and tired of conrstantly having to flatten my water stones, and then accidentally gouging my finest one, I finally sucked it up and bought some diamond stones. I started with this $100 set of 325, 600, and 1200 grit polka-dotted DMT stones. I used them for a few years, and they're serviceable, especially for $100. They're not great, though. At 6"x2", they're awkwardly small for most plane blades (my No. 8 was basically impossible) and the polka-dot pattern means water splashes all around, including onto your face. Is this better or worse than $100 of full-size water stones? I don't know. I upgraded last month to the full coverage, full-size 3"x8" DMT stones in 600, 1200, and 8000 and it made a world of difference. I now consistently get a burr each time I hone. This set of three stones is only $225. That's about twice as much as the cheap water stones, but still not a crazy amount for all the sharpening you'll need as a beginner. E: Next sharpening purchase will likely be a grinder. Working out nicks with a 600 grit stone is do-able, but it takes a while, and I currently have no way to re-set the bevel angle. ColdPie fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Sep 30, 2017 |
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Sep 30, 2017 21:08
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Can anyone point me to some plans for a bench/shoe organizer than you might have in your entryway? Ideally something more mid-century modernish-- but I imagine I could also just buy some legs off etsy to pull that off. I've got some spare plywood in my garage and a hankering for another project. I have a borrowed router, project saw (no dado stack), and miter saw, along with a few hand tools and a pocket hole jig. Alternatively, it could be fun to make a crosscut sled+box joint jig for my table saw. Or I could do both.
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Sep 30, 2017 23:52
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MetaJew posted:Can anyone point me to some plans for a bench/shoe organizer than you might have in your entryway? Ideally something more mid-century modernish-- but I imagine I could also just buy some legs off etsy to pull that off. Have you considered a crosscut sled+box joint jig that turns over as a bench/shoe organizer? Just thinking out loud here....
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Oct 1, 2017 00:44
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